Cool, thanks for the info. Do you know what the engine side cover torque is? I didn't see it listed.
TIA-
TIA-
Misc Torque Specs - Use at your own risk! (FAQ)
- Thread starter Hugh Heifer
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Generally if there is no specific torque listed anywhere, I use the generic chart. I just replaced my sidecover gasket and without specific specks I figured I would torque it the same as the oilpan...WRONG ANSWER. I think I ended up at about 4 foot pounds. I just tightened them down until the cork just barely started to buldge.
- Thread starter
- #23
Here is another useful thread to muddy the waters a bit.
Found in the FJ60 FAQ
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=129878
Found in the FJ60 FAQ
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=129878
- Thread starter
- #25
I just looked and did not find one.
However, the FSM listed a torque for the A440F (FJ62 Auto) drain plug as 15 foot pounds (pg AT-5) in one section and 20 in another (pg AT-20). Interesting.
Here are the only torque specs listed for the H41 and H55 in the FSM:
However, the FSM listed a torque for the A440F (FJ62 Auto) drain plug as 15 foot pounds (pg AT-5) in one section and 20 in another (pg AT-20). Interesting.
Here are the only torque specs listed for the H41 and H55 in the FSM:
H41/H55 Transmission Torque Specifications
I have looked in my manuals as well and can't find this info. Mine always seems to have slow drips, but I am afraid to crank them on much tighter because of the aluminum housings. I really would like to find a spec if there is one.
- Thread starter
- #27
Put a little sealant on either side of the aluminum washer.
Old thread but important info.
I was a Caterpillar Inc for 30 yrs. Cat used to be fanatical about bolt torque. A couple of things to consider:
1. Unless otherwise indicated, recommended bolt torques are for clean and DRY threads. If you lubricate a bolt or apply thread locker and apply the specified torque you may break the bolt because the reduced friction results in higher actual torque being applied.
2. In the case of a soft gasket (like a cork oil pan) sandwiched between two metal parts, do not use generic torque values. The gasket is carrying the bolt load, not the metal parts. For a soft gasket joint the optimum amount of compression on the gasket is what controls bolt torque. If you over compress a soft gasket (like cork) it will fail.
Different story for a hard, metal encased gasket like a head or manifold gasket. Not sure but I suspect generic "book values" for torque apply.
Jim
I was a Caterpillar Inc for 30 yrs. Cat used to be fanatical about bolt torque. A couple of things to consider:
1. Unless otherwise indicated, recommended bolt torques are for clean and DRY threads. If you lubricate a bolt or apply thread locker and apply the specified torque you may break the bolt because the reduced friction results in higher actual torque being applied.
2. In the case of a soft gasket (like a cork oil pan) sandwiched between two metal parts, do not use generic torque values. The gasket is carrying the bolt load, not the metal parts. For a soft gasket joint the optimum amount of compression on the gasket is what controls bolt torque. If you over compress a soft gasket (like cork) it will fail.
Different story for a hard, metal encased gasket like a head or manifold gasket. Not sure but I suspect generic "book values" for torque apply.
Jim
- Thread starter
- #30
There is another thread about head bolt torque that includes a discussion about re-using head bolts and if they should be lubed and re-torqued here in the 40 section. Sorry I do not immediately have the link to offer but if you can find it it is worth a read.
Help! I am in the middle of an F engine rebuild and concerned about over torquing the the crankshaft bearing caps. I torqued to 85f/lb based on the following specs. The crank seems like it is locked up? Should I be able turn the crank?
Crankshaft Bearing Caps (Front, Second & Third) 90-108 f/lb
Crankshaft Bearing Cape (Rear) 76-94 f/lb
Crankshaft Bearing Caps (Front, Second & Third) 90-108 f/lb
Crankshaft Bearing Cape (Rear) 76-94 f/lb
I am having an issue with my crank locking up as I gradually tighten my main caps to the specified torque. The block, crank and main bearings were all specked by a local reputable Machine shop. Through the process of elimination it seems that the issue lies in the #2 and rear main cap as I torque these two the crank locks. I am wondering if the mains were checked for roundness and needs to be line bored. I would have assumed the machine shop would have done this. My only other thought would be the tightening sequence. I have worked from the front to the rear - gradually to the finished tourque and the crank is locked.
Any help out there?
Any help out there?
You'll need to have the shop check the block out as well as the crank , make certain all the measurements are correct - same goes with the bearings .
Sarge
Sarge
Thanks sarge, I appreciate the feed back. Something is not right
I just had my no. 4 bearing cap off to replace the rear main seal and there were two pieces of thin shim stock under each side of the bearing cap. I don't know if that's OEM, or a backyard mechanic fix.
Holy crap! I just got back from Christmas Vacation with the folks, Fantastic info overload thanks for the help
Current Toy Dealerships should prob thank you --but then again a lot of them don't know what these are(torque specifications)--They cranked my wife's Camry lug nuts to 142 ft/lbs
And thank you for the effort to create this compilation--got it saved and printed to go in my Cruiser book---
- Thread starter
- #38
I have seen that before when I have pulled a crank. I was unsure if that was factory or from a rebuild but it is likely factory.
Generally if there is no specific torque listed anywhere, I use the generic chart. I just replaced my sidecover gasket and without specific specks I figured I would torque it the same as the oilpan...WRONG ANSWER. I think I ended up at about 4 foot pounds. I just tightened them down until the cork just barely started to buldge.
The 1985 2F-3F Engine FSM (page EM42) list the torque value of the valve lifter cover at 35 in-lb.
- Thread starter
- #40
So that is just shy of 3 foot pounds. I wonder why I never stumbled on that. I do not think my manual includes the 3F. Good find.
