Middy strength 2.0

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I have already moved the fixed pin hanger back so I could you 60 series springs instead of the 70 series ute springs. I could move them forward a bit as they are only tacked on, but it would be a bit of a pain in the arse. I'll have a look at it today and see how hard it is to cut the tacks off. Incidentally I would have thought having the longer shackle would give more travel, the arc in which the shackle would cycle in would be larger resulting more travel, that's my understanding of it. What's your thoughts mate?
 
exactly, longer shackels allow more movement and better articulation.
i was thinking the shackel end moved back toward the rear of the frame would allow better departure angle vrs moving the fixed end ahead ...

well, that is my thinking anyway.
 
Oh ok, well I'll be flipping the springs, as in re-drill the military wrap leaf so it will move the axle back, so after it's all done the axle will be about 3 inches further back than it is now. I might just stay with the longer shackle idea at this stage but leave the fixed pin tacked for now in case I want to change it.
 
longer shackel is a good idea, the rear won't be affected by caster. how long will you need to make it?
 
The cruiser is back on all fours! Here's some progress pics.

IMG_0300.jpg

IMG_0299.jpg

All Braced, shaved and the ladder bar bracket.
IMG_0310.jpg

New axle location, about 4 inches further back than before. I moved the fixed spring hanger back to match the length of the front, redrilled the wrap leaf and flipped them around.
IMG_0305.jpg

Reservoir for the hydro assist
IMG_0308.jpg

Ram brackets tacked in place
IMG_0309.jpg

The new ride height, its about 2'' lower in the rear now than it was before.
 
I have done in my dream I will run to do the same , I need some help on this issue
gasoline in my car, 1990 model, fj 70, where do you suggest to start in, I plan to put 38 tires
 
That would be cool mate. If you want to fit 38's, there is going to be alot of guard trimming, similar to mine I'd guess. I think upgrading axles and cv's are mandatory, I don't think a spring over is a must but though.
 
You bought back and reverse what I can see you start out with scissors, earrings, why did you make it, do what you brought changes
 
Ok, long time since I've updated this, it's not because of a lack of work or progress believe me.

Here's the new look rear end, new rear bar, new tyre and hi lift jack mount, fully sick yellow shackles.
176-1.jpg

177.jpg

Gas tank mounted and new spot for the batteries.
178.jpg

Air tank, will run the front locker, air free spool, the ram the engages 4wd/2wd and probably a air horn.
180.jpg

The air ram 4wd/2wd
181.jpg

Rebuilt hi mount with bracing, widened drum and freespool
173.jpg

New wrap bar
182.jpg

Hydro assist ram mounted, all the hoses are done, just got to put them on and fill it up.
183.jpg

Tapped the steering box
175.jpg

Cooler for the hydro assist
174.jpg

Simmo went through and remade the alternator brackets from scratch
172.jpg

Radiator spaced back 100mm to make room for the winch, new fan shroud fabed up
170.jpg

Gas system all hooked up
171.jpg

My heavy duty rear view mirror
184.jpg

185.jpg

32" light bar, I'll be removing the spoties from the front as they look pretty dicky. I've got a 10" light bar coming for a reverse light which means I can get rid of the other lights on the back
179.jpg

Beadlocks went on yesterday.
186.jpg

168.jpg
 
I like your new rear bumper.
Trucks looking slick.

I am curious on how much better those light bars are.
 
Last edited:
Thanks mate, I'm pretty happy how the bar turned out and the whole truck is shaping up in general. I'll take a photo later on to show a comparison between high beam and the light bar, it will only be on the shed wall but will give an idea anyway. I think they are pretty bloody good.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom