Here's the burgaflex clamps and a pex crimper i got from home depot. Fittings, hoses and other miscellaneous stuff cost about the same as the rear ac unit. Its adding up really quick.
Micro-Tube Parallel Flow Condenser (10 Viewers)
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- #362
@flintknapper I never thought about this before but do you have to run the truck's engine during a vacuum pull to evacuate the AC system?
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- #363
I know the collective "we" appreciate the R&D though
! You've plowed through this project (and the money 
) much faster than my 
would allow me to. 
Just my own calculations based on your progress have made me decide to throw in the Nissens for now and start collecting the other condenser and parts over the next 6 months for next season.What evaporator did you end up with?
No. Normally the truck will be off and the A/C system will ALWAYS be off.
IF you had to vacuum a system in particularly cool weather...it might be beneficial to bring the engine and engine compartment up to operating temperature (but NOT engage the A/C).
The higher the temperature (ambient) and the less pressure (read higher reading of vacuum) the faster and more complete moisture will boil off in the system.
And while we are on the subject of pulling a vacuum, take the time to pull a 'deep vacuum'. A/C shops can not afford to do this, but the individual servicing his own system can.
Without benefit of mircon gauge you won't really know how well the system has been evacuated. Your manifold gauge set is going to show the maximum amount of vacuum attainable (at your elevation and temperature) within minutes. BUT...it takes TIME to actually remove the moisture.
Very important to have good quality, fresh pump oil in your vacuum pump as well.
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- #365
Delete: Not L/C related
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Im sticking with the at2 that I already bought. Its gonna take up trunk space but its ok. If you go with the smaller 1100, the nissens might work and probably our best bet. Less modifications less error.I know the collective "we" appreciate the R&D though
What evaporator did you end up with?
Ok guys kind of a real time help here. @flintknapper @smritte @Dissent @Bambusiero @Dindu Nuffin and anyone else that can chime in. Do i have to/can i put nylog where i crimp the clamps on?
I found the answer to my question. Leaving it here for anyone going this route.
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- #369
Just saw this, I'd put it on the ends where the hose meets the fittings. I've only used Nylog on o-rings so far though.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
about oil .. I got the privilege to order this for my mom's Prado ..
and it came with this ..
and it came with this ..
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- #371
The legendary ND-Oil8!!about oil .. I got the privilege to order this for my mom's Prado ..
and it came with this ..
They put a lot of nylog. If i do it the way they do, I'd run out of nylog quick.lol.Just saw this, I'd put it on the ends where the hose meets the fittings. I've only used Nylog on o-rings so far though.
OK, sorry to be late to the party. I see you found your answers. Just to reiterate....IF you have Nylog (and you should...Nylog is your friend) then use it. It serves as both a lubricant and sealant. It would be difficult to insert the fitting into the hose if not first lubricated.
There are a few different type crimping rings for these type of reduced diameter hoses...but all of them use some type of 'locating' method to insure the crimp rings fall over specific areas of the fittings. The type you chose uses a 'cage' (orient the crimp towers with the flat on the cage). A normal PEX type crimper should work fine for the system you chose.
Also...remember you can get fittings that have service ports on them (if that will help with a particular installation), but I wouldn't want that feature unless needed (just another potential spot for a leak).
Forgive me for my ignorance but to what purpose would additional ports serve since i already have high and low ports on the compressor? All fittings i bought did not have ports.
Also proair advised against adding a 2nd drier and a solenoid valve since i am only doing a "tie in". Im just gonna probably add it in the future. Im just itching to see a functioning system first.
Yeah, I noticed that too. A prodigal waste of the product. All that is needed is a thin film. I guess the tech in the video didn't want to get his nice gloves all messy by just spreading a little Nylog on with his fingers.
I'm starting to realize that my issue is two pronged because yesterday was some win, some lose.
After sitting all day in the sun, it took the vent temp about 40 seconds to go from 95°F to 50°F. Once moving, it dropped down to 40-45 or so. My thermometer is about 3/4" in diameter and graduated in 4° increments (WHY?!?!?!), so it's hard to stare at it and do the math while driving. I'm happy with these temps.
Unfortunately, on the trail was another story... As I mentioned before, the previous owner installed the CSF and a kind of mix mash goofy dual fan setup- one is a shrouded 90s Civic fan, and the other is some no name 16" fan. This setup sufficiently cooled the engine on the street, but would get so hot on the trail, the AC would cut out. Thinking I had a bad CSF like quite a few got, i swapped it out for a TYC and retained the electric setup because it does admittedly move a fair amount of air. But even with both puller fans and the 10" Perma Cool pusher on the front of the condenser going, the AC was still cutting out on the trail yesterday. Watching the temp with an AutoMeter Dashlink and a tablet, it'd cut at 221 and the coolant temp would drop to 217 in about a minute, then the AC would come back on and the coolant would climb back up to 221 in about a minute. Up, down, up down. However, once the AC cut out, the coolant temp dropped much faster with the TYC radiator than with the CSF. This behavior coupled with the vent temps dropping another 5-10° when moving tells me that I have an airflow issue due to the puller fans behind the rad, so I have an oem shroud, fan and clutch that I'll mod before install on the way. They'll be here next week, and I'll update once in and run up the trail.
It just doesn't end, does it?
*edit- if anyone is wondering, yes, I did put foam between the radiator and the support in front of it.
After sitting all day in the sun, it took the vent temp about 40 seconds to go from 95°F to 50°F. Once moving, it dropped down to 40-45 or so. My thermometer is about 3/4" in diameter and graduated in 4° increments (WHY?!?!?!), so it's hard to stare at it and do the math while driving. I'm happy with these temps.
Unfortunately, on the trail was another story... As I mentioned before, the previous owner installed the CSF and a kind of mix mash goofy dual fan setup- one is a shrouded 90s Civic fan, and the other is some no name 16" fan. This setup sufficiently cooled the engine on the street, but would get so hot on the trail, the AC would cut out. Thinking I had a bad CSF like quite a few got, i swapped it out for a TYC and retained the electric setup because it does admittedly move a fair amount of air. But even with both puller fans and the 10" Perma Cool pusher on the front of the condenser going, the AC was still cutting out on the trail yesterday. Watching the temp with an AutoMeter Dashlink and a tablet, it'd cut at 221 and the coolant temp would drop to 217 in about a minute, then the AC would come back on and the coolant would climb back up to 221 in about a minute. Up, down, up down. However, once the AC cut out, the coolant temp dropped much faster with the TYC radiator than with the CSF. This behavior coupled with the vent temps dropping another 5-10° when moving tells me that I have an airflow issue due to the puller fans behind the rad, so I have an oem shroud, fan and clutch that I'll mod before install on the way. They'll be here next week, and I'll update once in and run up the trail.
It just doesn't end, does it?
*edit- if anyone is wondering, yes, I did put foam between the radiator and the support in front of it.
Sounds like you are on top of it and I agree with your assessment. The A/C system would appear to be working correctly.
Your 'cooling' system however is in dire need of going back to the stock arrangement (stock radiator shroud, stock fan blade and a modded fan clutch). Keep the pusher fan for the condenser.
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- #379
I've not seen anyone with electric fans as pleased on the trail as the were with the mdded OEM clutch fan. That's going to make a huge improvement.
So glad to hear the improvements on the street after sitting all day. I'm almost tempted to go pull my evaporator and condenser out before work this morning and get the new parts in tonight.
Better to wait until you have a full day or two to work on it. Be rested up, have a clear plan in mind, take your time and get things right.
The critical part of A/C work (besides using good components) lies in the 'prep-work'. Making SURE you have no leaks. It can be arduous work in some cases, but you don't want to have to do it over again.
The charging part (for an evacuated system) is the easy part.
