Micro-Tube Parallel Flow Condenser

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If those aluminum tubes are low side, insulate them when your done. Your condenser will be happier. Looking good so far.

Scott
Insulate the aluminum tubes only? No need to insulate the low side reduced barrier hoses? Can you suggest a material that i can use for insulation? Proair showed me 2 types of material a grey foam type tape and a black tarry looking tape.
 
Insulate the aluminum tubes only? No need to insulate the low side reduced barrier hoses? Can you suggest a material that i can use for insulation? Proair showed me 2 types of material a grey foam type tape and a black tarry looking tape.
Just the aluminum, I used foam water pipe insulation on my jeep. Worked great but, it only lasted a couple of years before breaking down. It was cheap though. The black tape sounds like what we insulate TXV's with. I was going to see what the latest heat wrap was when i did mine. Insulating is not a must, it just helps some. My thought is, I live in a hot area, I need every little bit I can get.

Scott
 
Just the aluminum, I used foam water pipe insulation on my jeep. Worked great but, it only lasted a couple of years before breaking down. It was cheap though. The black tape sounds like what we insulate TXV's with. I was going to see what the latest heat wrap was when i did mine. Insulating is not a must, it just helps some. My thought is, I live in a hot area, I need every little bit I can get.

Scott
Proair told me to insulate the tube that "sweats" with the black sticky tape. They mentioned high or low but cant remember which one. So it must be the low side as you mentioned.
 
@flintknapper @Dissent should i put nylog on the o ring? Reason im asking is i had applied nylog in an o ring accidentally dropped it and found it the next day. It looked like it degraded and became mushy. Easily disintegrated when i squished it with my fingers.

Blue Nylog is fully compatible with modern HNBR O-rings and all refrigerants and non-mineral oils. It is actually made for lubricating and sealing fittings and O-rings.

I will assume the O-rings were of any of the recent materials (any would be fine).

Nylog is made from a synthetic refrigeration grade compressor oil, so naturally it is designed to be used in an anaerobic environment (free of atmosphere/free oxygen).

So my WAG (and I am guessing here)... is that just like certain lubricating oils (and refrigerants) it is hygroscopic (will attract moisture) and can become acidic because of this. I've never experienced degradation of O-Rings from having used Nylog...but I've never let one soak in it...exposed to atmosphere.
 
Blue Nylog is fully compatible with modern HNBR O-rings and all refrigerants and non-mineral oils. It is actually made for lubricating and sealing fittings and O-rings.

I will assume the O-rings were of any of the recent materials (any would be fine).

Nylog is made from a synthetic refrigeration grade compressor oil, so naturally it is designed to be used in an anaerobic environment (free of atmosphere/free oxygen).

So my WAG (and I am guessing here)... is that just like certain lubricating oils (and refrigerants) it is hygroscopic (will attract moisture) and can become acidic because of this. I've never experienced degradation of O-Rings from having used Nylog...but I've never let one soak in it...exposed to atmosphere.
Well that explains it. Cant get a better answer than this. Thanks for explaining that. My "test subject" has been exposed to atmosphere hence the degradation.
 
If you added leads to your trinary switch and plan to wire it for automatic operation then yes...the fan will 'cycle' with the compressor but also come on anytime the high side pressure reaches about 220-225 psi. It will also 'run on' for a brief period of time after system shut down until the equalization pressure reaches the cut out minimum. That is how I have mine wired.

View attachment 1773245

Ideally you want to wire the electric fan to a relay.

Auxiliary_Fan_Pressure_Switch_Wiring_Diagram.jpg
 
Good point, I already have a relay in place with the fan.

Yes, a relay should be used. A bit like having to tell folks you need air in your tires. ;)

But...I suppose we shouldn't assume everyone would know.
 
Good point, I already have a relay in place with the fan.

Yes, a relay should be used. A bit like having to tell folks you need air in your tires. ;)

But...I suppose we shouldn't assume everyone would know.

Haha, yeah. Based on the photo, it wasn’t clear that a relay was being used. I just didn’t want anyone to wire the fan directly from the A/C switch. I hope the wiring diagram helps someone either way.

6_C2508_CF_7_ECB_428_D_B50_B_F5_A9_CA2_B36_A4.jpg
 
Haha, yeah. Based on the photo, it wasn’t clear that a relay was being used. I just didn’t want anyone to wire the fan directly from the A/C switch. I hope the wiring diagram helps someone either way.

6_C2508_CF_7_ECB_428_D_B50_B_F5_A9_CA2_B36_A4.jpg

I understand...and it is well to make all 'how to' information here as monkey proof as possible. My intent was simply to show the wires needed at the trinary switch. The rest of the circuit has been covered so many times I didn't feel it necessary to repeat it. But I should have considered some folks are starting at ground zero.


Good job.
 
@ARB777 How are things progressing?
 
Well fellas, just an update with my mess... I ditched the two electric pullers and installed the engine driven fan. I bought all new stuff, and modded the Aisin blue hub clutch with 20,000 cst oil and adjusting the thermostat inside per Landtank's thread. It works great. Where I was hitting 221+ with the electrics, I now run at 194, and after idling for five or so minutes after a hard pull in low range up a very steep hill, it hit a high of 199. The ac stayed cold the whole time and we were comfortable. So, I'm going to call this done for me. I don't notice any difference in power between the electric fans and the modded blue hub roaring away. Then again, with 35s and stock gears at 5000'+ elevation, it's pretty damn lethargic anyway. I will say, though- the roar of the fan is very comforting, and man... it moves a LOT of air compared to those electric fans.
 
Charged with 2.8 lbs of refrigerant. No oil added. Only whats inside the new oem denso compressor. Here are my vent temps at around 3pm. Ambient temp is around 103-105.

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