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- #81
Nope, I didn't touch the dryer. That's all on the low-pressure side.
It's all working great. The ECU is back in Iceland getting repaired (it kept randomly shutting off power to the IP), so I'll be driving it soon again.
Builds Mercedes OM606 Turbodiesel into FZJ80 - engine refresh and more turbo fun (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter anothernord
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- diesel swap mercedes om606
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Nope, I didn't touch the dryer. That's all on the low-pressure side.
It's all working great. The ECU is back in Iceland getting repaired (it kept randomly shutting off power to the IP), so I'll be driving it soon again.
I have to say... That engine looks awesome on that engine bay, personally this is one of the best swaps I have seen.
- Thread starter
- #83
Hey thank you. I think it's all in the Merc plastic engine cover. It's a nice looking piece.
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- #84
I should have known not to install any jeep parts on the truck. The turbo blew up in a spectacular fashion while on vacation in the mountains. I was able to limp to a campground where I made a call to a very good friend who made the trip out to retrieve the rig.
Back at the lab, I decided to upgrade to a GT2359V from a 2005 E320 CDI. It's a little larger than the jeep turbo but still spools quickly thanks to being variable geometry.
At the same time, I added in a mass airflow sensor and exhaust pressure sensor to complete my array of sensors for tuning.
Since then, I've been using the truck for exactly what it was made for. Exploring.
I've always felt like the truck struggled from a standing start, so I had Roadrunner Converters in AZ rework a spare A343F torque converter to have a slightly higher stall speed. The stock A343F converter stalls at 1200 RPM, which is a bit below the boost threshold for this engine, especially at my altitude. The new converter stalls around 1500 rpm and makes the first 0-4 mph much snappier before boost kicks in.
Back at the lab, I decided to upgrade to a GT2359V from a 2005 E320 CDI. It's a little larger than the jeep turbo but still spools quickly thanks to being variable geometry.
At the same time, I added in a mass airflow sensor and exhaust pressure sensor to complete my array of sensors for tuning.
Since then, I've been using the truck for exactly what it was made for. Exploring.
I've always felt like the truck struggled from a standing start, so I had Roadrunner Converters in AZ rework a spare A343F torque converter to have a slightly higher stall speed. The stock A343F converter stalls at 1200 RPM, which is a bit below the boost threshold for this engine, especially at my altitude. The new converter stalls around 1500 rpm and makes the first 0-4 mph much snappier before boost kicks in.
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- Thread starter
- #86
Thank you, sir. I don't have an exact weight of the 606, but from what I've found, its around 460-500 lb. About 100-120 lb less than the 1FZ.
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- #87
Here's a few videos that shows what it sounds like: (with GTA2359VK turbo)
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- Thread starter
- #89
The VNT definitely makes it sound snarlier! Now I just want to find a ball-bearing turbo for even faster spool.I bet it didn't sound like that in an E-Class
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- #90
I've been having some fun characterizing this turbo (which I think is too small but this is a learning experience).
The following plot is the VNT nozzle position vs RPM and boost pressure (MAP). I've developed this from averaging many hours of driving under a variety of conditions.
The following plot is the VNT nozzle position vs RPM and boost pressure (MAP). I've developed this from averaging many hours of driving under a variety of conditions.
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- #92
Yes, the above plot is what I created from many hours of datalogging and tuning. It's using the actuator that came with the turbo. There's lots of info on how to control the PWM type actuators out there. I'm using the DSL1 controller to run the actuator.
You'll make big improvements simply going to a later generation VNT turbo. The early VNT (A series) have terrible vane shapes and quite poor turbine efficiency. This slows spoolup and means more drive pressure across the range.
Going to a GTB or GTC of similar size will help hugely.
Going to a GTB or GTC of similar size will help hugely.
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- #94
Very interesting - I didn't know the later versions were so much better. I knew the GTD (5th gen?) supposedly improves on previous by having less hysterisis in the mechanism, but I wonder what they did between A, B, and C. I guess we've learned a lot since the early 2000's in the area of variable geometry. Thanks for mentioning that.
Between A and B/C they changed the blade shape a lot. A used straight blades to direct curved flow which created a lot of drag and turbulence before the turbine wheel.
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- #96
Another video:
Here's a whole thread on OM606 turbocharging matches, mostly Holset: Om605 / 606 mercedes
- Thread starter
- #98
Thanks for the link. Good to see others are getting more interesting turbos on these engines.
I've since moved on from the GTA2359, to what I call the "no compromise" solution - sequential twins.
I started with the R2S system from an OM651 sprinter, and cut off the low pressure turbo:
Did a little porting work to the manifold since it's outlet was tiny:
I welded on a matching OM606 flange and bolted it to the manifold:
Then, a T4 flange (which I later altered to have a T25 bolt patterm)
And a while later we have an EFR6758 low pressure stage:
I've got the transition control strategy implemented, just needs tuning to be optimized. Initial results are astonishing low-end torque. There's a fairly big disparity in the compressor maps for the 2 wheels, but they overlap enough that it works.
- Thread starter
- #99
Updates: my engine has over 230k and on it and was producing quite a bit of blow-by. So I decided to tear it down and rebuild it with:
New bearings
New rings
100% new OEM gaskets
Pressure tested head
Everything was in great shape. The block just needed a hone and all the bearing surfaces were great. The engine was surprisingly simple and easy to rebuild.
Measuring piston projection:
I went big and got the FSM-specified Loctite 534 for the front housing:
Engine put back together:
I decide the 2-stage system had too much potential for "German car problems" so I snagged a GTD2060VZ from Ebay Lithuainia and modded it to fit.
This is a 5th-gen Honeywell VNT system so it's much better in every way than the old GTA2359.
I drove 50 miles, changed the oil, then 500 miles and changed the oil again. Fired right up with zero leaks and problems and I was back in the mountains in no time.
First gear is still not as snappy as I'd like. I realized, though, that the truck is on 35's with stock gearing at high elevation. So the easy solution is just to regear like everyone does anyway.
Turns out that 2nd gear in low range is pretty close to how 1st gear with 5.29's would feel. So I drove around like that and liked how it felt. Ordered parts and will be installing in the coming weeks.
New bearings
New rings
100% new OEM gaskets
Pressure tested head
Everything was in great shape. The block just needed a hone and all the bearing surfaces were great. The engine was surprisingly simple and easy to rebuild.
Measuring piston projection:
I went big and got the FSM-specified Loctite 534 for the front housing:
Engine put back together:
I decide the 2-stage system had too much potential for "German car problems" so I snagged a GTD2060VZ from Ebay Lithuainia and modded it to fit.
This is a 5th-gen Honeywell VNT system so it's much better in every way than the old GTA2359.
I drove 50 miles, changed the oil, then 500 miles and changed the oil again. Fired right up with zero leaks and problems and I was back in the mountains in no time.
First gear is still not as snappy as I'd like. I realized, though, that the truck is on 35's with stock gearing at high elevation. So the easy solution is just to regear like everyone does anyway.
Turns out that 2nd gear in low range is pretty close to how 1st gear with 5.29's would feel. So I drove around like that and liked how it felt. Ordered parts and will be installing in the coming weeks.
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Was your head gasket fiber or MLS?
