Mercedes OM606 turbo Diesel 80 series Land Cruiser (1 Viewer)

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Congrats on the new motor and refund. I hope that everything pans out with this one, despite some of the damage.

I appreciate the well wishes, thank you. The damage is hopefully inconsequential, I will find out tomorrow when I get the old engine and transmission out and open the new motor to swap the oil pump and pan and other misc. parts.

So with the twin turbo setup how much power are you looking to get vs the 1fz? How is your axle to oil pan clearance?
The compound turbo setup will hopefully be good for the full use of the injection pump which is around 400hp a few more than that but I don't remember the exact number. I'm aiming for 300-350 hp. Shouldn't be too difficult given the bad motor on 3 cylinders was more spirited than the 1fz gas guzzler. I barked the tires accidentally by dropping the clutch too fast when I was doing initial testing. I have hope that the replacement motor, if good, will be able to easily turn my 40's. Helps that I now have part-time and 2-Lo.
 
Got at it this morning, had to disassemble my cherry picker and load it into the trunk of my Camry and drive it to my brothers with some other miscellaneous parts. Then had to come back into town and disassemble the engine stand and load some more misc. stuff and take it over to my brothers. Followed that by starting the cruiser and letting it idle a while as I assembled the picker and stand and cleaned up the garage mess he had. I also split the new engine and transmission and pulled some other parts in preparation for swapping the oil pump, pan and some other parts from the bad engine. I wanted to get excess parts out of the garage that was congested as it is. I went to pull the cruiser in and found out the brakes were siezed... semi metallic pads kind of rusted to the rotors in the nasty moist fog they get every night. Applied some skinny pedal and 2-Lo and broke one tire free leaving a single burnout in my brothers side yard...oops. Got the brakes to release and cleaned the 10 pounds of leaves, pine needles and algae off of the hood and pulled it in and started disassembling it. I have to remove the shifters, rear driveline and the transmission crossmember and it's out. More tomorrow.

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Well, yesterday (Saturday 16th) was kind of a lost day. I got the engine and transmission out and split before noon. Then I had to focus my attention on pulling the diff cover on an axle I was selling to send pictures of the gear set to the buyer. I had to move my dead Ford truck to get the axle out and then help the guy load it into his jacked up truck, had to use the cherry picker, it was all kinds of a mess. Then I stripped the injection pumps off the motors and swapped them, I removed the glow plugs on the new motor, the newer Mercedes motors have some serious issues with glow plugs breaking off. So much so that Mercedes made a whole special tool kit to take care of the issue. I broke one plug. I could tell the other 5 had been replaced. The rear plug has the oil filter housing directly in front obstructing access, so it is often left in. Today's task is to get the remainder of the plug out and get the rest of the parts swapped. I got 3/4 of the center electrode out of the plug so I'm not having luck drilling it. Not sure what I'm going to do at the moment.

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Sunday, had to take a break to go home and feed the dog and hopefully pick up some 3/8 heater hose. I was able to use the stick welding function of my multi-process today. I ended up fusing a 6013 rod that came in a sample pack with the welder straight to the old glow plug remnant. Pulled right out. All plugs are installed, injection pump, new fuel lines for those I didn't replace on the last motor, got the fuel filters in. I'm going to do the water pump oil filter housing and filter after I get back. Then it's valve cover, oil pan and pump, intake and exhaust manifold and front and rear main seals and assemble it back to the engine and put it in. Pics for now, I will update this evening.
Update: I guess it's technically Monday since it's past midnight. I got most of the parts from the old engine transferred over except for a few small parts that ought to go quickly. When I get up I'm taking my front driveshaft to the driveshaft shop to have it shortened, afterwards it's back at it finishing the motor and hopefully getting it installed. I'd like to have it buttoned up by the end of Monday finish small stuff Tuesday and test drive it. We will see how that goes.
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Well it's Monday evening and I cut out early. Had to come home and do all the chores I've been neglecting. I got all the parts except 1 swapped over; it's the dipstick tube plug that goes into the old timing cover where the original dipstick goes in. Apparently I have to open the old engine up and hammer it out so
I can plug the hole on replacement engine. I got the whole drivetrain installed and bolted in minus the driveline and clutch slave cylinder. I went to bolt the clutch slave on and the little plastic cap on the end of the pushrod fell off into the bellhousing. So I have to return tomorrow with a coat hanger and try to fish that out, or just go buy another slave cylinder and swap it. I don't know yet. I was able to get the engine wired in and 1/2 the plumbing done. Tomorrow I will work on dipstick plug, driveline install and slave cylinder fix; then try to get the front on as quickly as possible and get the fluids on and the cooling system bled. Hopefully I can take it for a test drive sometime before the sun goes down. If all goes well I will work on exhaust later this week, just temporary between the turbo and the muffler. Fan shroud, center console and full exhaust will come later.
 
Well, the front clip is mostly assembled and the engine seems like its a winner. The power steering pump that came on the engine has a damaged reservoir apparently so I will need to swap that out. A few things left to make it road worthy and the finer details will be taken care of over time. The big thing keeping me from test driving it at the moment is the brakes are locked up again. Will deal with that tomorrow.
 
Well, the cruiser has been back together since Friday minus the grill which will require some trimming to fit around the inter-cooler. I plumbed a temporary ghettofabulous exhaust back to the old muffler to get it road worthy. That was today's task along with replacing the master cylinder in a failed attempt to get the brakes to release. Funny story, I removed the old master and installed a re-manufactured Aisin unit. While the master was disconnected the tires spun freely. After swapping the reservoir, bench bleeding and installing the new master; I bled the brakes with the help of my brother. Got in to take it for a test drive.....brakes are locked even harder than before. I'm thinking that since the master has been done before at some point; evidenced by a single 13 mm outer nut, missing tab and no gasket between the cylinder and booster, that the booster push rod may be out of adjustment. My hunch is that since the brake pedal is so much easier to push in while running than it used to be is that the vacuum pump on the Mercedes motor is likely providing more vacuum than the original 1fz-fe was hence driving the push rod further forward. I guess I will see in the morning when I go back to work on it some more. I will take a shot of the sweet 90* bend of my exhaust. I used the sharp 90* off the small turbo with a small section of 3" stainless followed by a 10" long braided flex joint followed by a J-shaped length cut from a mandrel bent U. That connects to a straight piece of 3" steel tubing that goes all the way to the pipe that was connected to the catalytic converters and wraps over the frame. I cut off half of the Y-pipe and scabbed a piece in the hole left over, then used 2 reducers since the parts store didn't have a 3"-2.5" reducer. So, the 3" exhaust tapers to a 2.5" right before it wraps over the frame. I did a lot of the welding while it was installed and needless to say, welding overhead, in the dark on dissimilar metals is no fun. Oh, and some welding BB's caught my hoodie on fire when I was mig welding the mild steel stuff lol. It's all down to the brakes, if I can get those figured out I can get some mileage behind the motor. I like my nice shiny new Treadstone inter-cooler but I would like to find a ford inter-cooler or similar that I can put between the radiator and AC condenser and clean up the inter-cooler tubing situation. I have other modifications I want to do, like the shock towers I didn't put in this time around due to the time crunch and the ABS stuff being in the way. A little at a time, and someday it will be just the way I want it.

I would love to see and drive you car when it's all done.

Did I ever mention maybe that I am jealous? Sometime in the past 5 minutes maybe?

I assume trafficland is somewhere is California, but when its all done and tested you're welcome to come check it out and take it for a spin. As long as you keep it in between the yellow lines and shiny side up.
 
Well, I'm pretty sure I figured out the brake issue. The booster. Apparently the vacuum from the merceds vacuum pump is too much for the booster. Talking to a couple of the Mercedes swapped guys they haven't had the same issue. It appears that the booster is acting on the brake master from vacuum alone, when you press the brake pedal it doesn't rebound and the brakes lock. Remove the vacuum hose and viola brakes unlock. I adjusted the pintle on the booster down several turns from where it was and it really didn't change much. So, I bought a thumb screw type air tool valve and two barbed fittings and plumbed it into the vacuum line, brakes unlock and stay unlocked but they don't build vacuum quite quick enough to be safe. So either I'm going to hydroboost or I'm on the hunt for a booster. The truck is very spirited when it gets going but it's still overfuelling from take off. I'm going to compression and leak down test the engine later this week. If all is well I will likely be sending the pump back to DPUK as it was initially though that the pump may have been damaged internally during shipping. The turbos sing though, they pick up rather quickly but without a working tachometer there is no way to tell how quickly. Anyway, ghettofabulous temporary exhaust pics. Don't drool too much over those immaculate welds lol. I assure you, this is all only temporary while I figure out what bends, muffler, resonator and flanges to order.

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What axle ratio are you going to have on your car? 4.11?

Stock gearing for now. It's what I've been running for years, may need to change them we will see. Worried about making it a road worthy vehicle, then making it look cleaner and gaining all the functionality back then I will worry about gearing etc... it's a long road.
 
I had the RPM range in mind when I asked about the gearing. Wandering if your big tires are good enough to keep the RPM low so the engine won't redline all the time.
The MB W210 had 25" tires with 3.46:1 axle ratio. The tranny has a wide gear ratio spread, so I think in 1st gear it revs hard at 3.93:1

With 33's or 35's you might even need to get a bump in your axle ratio. Gotta do some math before I go any further with this.
 
I think you are under geared with the stock TLC tranny and axles.

What was you criteria for keeping the TLC transmission instead of using the MB one?
 
A pressure regulator on the booster vacuum line would probably solve the brake issue.
I put a thumb screw type airline valve on it. Made the brakes work but it doesn't allow vacuum to build quick enough to be safe. Booster feels kind of choppy too.
 
I think you are under geared with the stock TLC tranny and axles.

What was you criteria for keeping the TLC transmission instead of using the MB one?
I'm not using the land cruiser transmission. RPM calculators put me only a couple miles per hour less at the same RPM's I was running before. Freeway I should be doing around 2300 instead of 2100 for the same speed. The Mercedes transmission would require a divorced transfer case and it's not all that strong to begin with. @Dragos80 keep in mind also that the Mercedes diesel redline is pump governed around 5500 RPM and the DPUK pump is safe to around 7000.
 
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