Mercedes OM606 turbo Diesel 80 series Land Cruiser (3 Viewers)

[Dragos80]

There is no way to fabricate an adapter plate for the tranny to t-case?

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

There is no way to fabricate an adapter plate for the tranny to t-case?

That would have been way easier and cheaper, if there were a way I would have gone that route. That and I would have had to have bought a different version of the 722.6 transmission because the E300D version isn't strong enough. The rear of the 722.6 isn't detachable and there isn't anything to bolt to either.

 

[Dragos80]

Got it.
I thought all 722.6's were the same. G-class uses them too and an transfer case too. Probably a different variation to suit the use of a transfer case.
G-class and Jeep use it too, so I guess there is one variation out there which can work with a t-case.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

The NAG370 for jeeps. But then you're talking another $1300 or so for a transmission and then adapting the cruiser case on top of that. I also wanted a manual for more control over shiftting since every auto I've ever had shifts at the worst possible time when wheeling. The 722.6 transmission has A LOT of variations and when it comes down to it the transmission final drive ratio between a stock A442f and the 722.6 is hardly a factor A442f is a final gear of 0.838:1 and the 722.6 is 0.833:1.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

I received my new warning lamp lenses just a few minutes ago. For those diesel swapped guys who want a glow plug lamp in their gauge cluster I have the factory lenses. I will do a write up once I get the brakes sorted out and get it running proper. My hope is that I don't have to send my injection pump back to the U.K. for recalibration but we will see. This is easily the most troubled project I've ever undertaken. The adapter is working properly it's just that nothing else seems to. Even my yellow box speedo recalibrator was acting funky. I dont know if it's because the yellow box has a loose terminal or if it's Marlin Crawlers mechanical to electric speedo adapter. Once it's running right I'm sure I will have no complaints, but until then; why cant people be more careful when shipping sh!t and more honest when selling stuff!?

Sorry for the poor quality of the pics, we can't all be @jcardona1 the top lens is the new one, cruise is the only only repin that will have to be done. Then a pin and bulb added for the glow plug lamp. I will take it from the check engine light. You could also use the traction control if you are cool and have 100 series hydroboost and the water in fuel indicator if you have a cool aftermarket separator with a sensor for your diesel conversion. This makes me think there is more to buy now lol.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Alright. Today I picked up a hydrobooster unit from an 05 dirtymax and the master cylinder from an 04 GMC envoy that had 4 wheel disks. Total cost for booster with hoses and master cylinder $70 I figure another $70 and I should have hydroboost brakes. Hopefully I'm solving more problems than I'm creating. I will do a write up sometime after the beginning of the new year when I get back home. Also, I have a hunch my small turbo may be causing the overfuelling on take-off. I'm thinking I'm not getting adequate boost on take-off and given the lower than expected boost figures when going down the road I'm thinking this may be the issue. Since I now have a spare k14 turbo I think I'm going to check the play on the spare and if it's acceptable do a swap out and see if anything changes. If not I will run the compression and leak-down tests and determine if I need to send the pump back. I will add pictures of the hydroboost stuff once I get home and take some.

 

[anothernord]

Awesome work here; hats off! Hope you get the brakes sorted out. That's one system to not screw around with.

I'd love to see more info on getting those warning light lenses. That'll make for a nice finishing touch.

I'm working on doing the same swap here except with stock auto transmission. Mind posting the part number for the lens?

Also, do you think you could have gotten away with just notching the stock oil pan?

 

[cjmoon]

what issue on the yellow box? i thought I had one may speedo was jumping all over and some times didn't work. it ended up being a ground o forgot to connect on the driver side of the harness in the engine bay

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

what issue on the yellow box? i thought I had one may speedo was jumping all over and some times didn't work. it ended up being a ground o forgot to connect on the driver side of the harness in the engine bay

Lol, yeah most of the wiring harness is gone. As for the problem, one of the terminals on the yellowbox plug is popping out and it works fine if you push it back in.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Awesome work here; hats off! Hope you get the brakes sorted out. That's one system to not screw around with.

I'd love to see more info on getting those warning light lenses. That'll make for a nice finishing touch.

I'm working on doing the same swap here except with stock auto transmission. Mind posting the part number for the lens?

Also, do you think you could have gotten away with just notching the stock oil pan?

I know I sold you a warning light lens and answered your pan question but I'm going to go ahead and address those questions for anyone else who may be reading. The warning lamps lens can be purchased through Cruiserparts. They charge $9+ shipping. I will ship anywhere in the contiguous US for $15 all said and done. Which if you consider paypal fee's it comes out to you pay $9 a lens also. Ordering them is cost prohibitive unless you order several like I did. I was told shipping was so cost prohibitive on a single lens that my source would do the 1 lens as a favor since I've done so much business but that's it. So, posting a number doesn't do any good because ordering a single lens from overseas isn't feasible. I have 4 left if anyone wants one. Other than that, cruiserparts has them.

As for notching the pan to get the engine to fit. That may be possible if you find a different way to orient the engine...but it isn't very likely without modifying the oil pickup also and I'm not sure you'd be able to because of where the drive sprocket is and where the pump is located etc.. You'd be better off just finding the OM648 oil pump and pan.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

On to the Hydroboost update. I lost my mother on the 29th of December so things have been hectic dealing with everything. I should be starting work this next week. Meanwhile I ordered fittings for the hydro booster, the power steering pump and the steering gear box. I will try and document it as best as possible.

There are a couple places which offer hydroboost kits for the 80 series. Marks offers a bolt on kit for the HZJ/HDJ 80 series starting at just under $1100
Power Brake Service offers a bolt on booster option starting at $475+ shipping, $845 + Shipping with a master cylinder and hoses.

For those interested in hydroboosting their Land Cruiser for a lot less money...even if they buy the booster new online, here is a list of parts I'm using. Keep in mind your power steering pump fitting will vary, I am sure you can find a -6AN banjo fitting though for the 1fz-fe power steering pump if you wanted to go with AN fittings. Otherwise get your Booster with hoses like I did and actually have new custom hoses made from them and your old hoses. I'm using -6AN/JIC6 adapters for everything, you can have custom hoses made, I'm just shooting for easily replicated -6 stuff that can be done at a napa or logging store or coupler place etc... Keep in mind that you shouldn't use this for a reference until after I have verified that all these parts are correct and that they work properly. Also, any modifications you choose to do to your brake setup are your own choice, craftsmanship etc.. and should be done at your own risk and I am not held liable for your choices or vehicle modifications.

I will list the total cost and individual part costs when all is done.

2005 Chevy Silverado Duramax HydroBooster (salvage yard $70)

EDIT: you would be wise to find the booster with rod #71690 as it is a longer rod which should make things just that much simpler. New units are around $150

GM/Mopar hydroboost:
(1) -6AN to M16x1.5 bump tube adapter (bubble flare?)
(1) -6AN to M18x1.5 bump tube adapter (bubble flare?) this three piece adapter set was $32
(1) -6AN to 5/16-24 adapter
(1) 3/8 Barbed T fitting. ( I went with stainless food grade) ($6.80)
(? ft) 3/8 Low pressure trans cooler hose
(1) -6AN 90* push lock fitting or 120*? to be determined
(3) Hose clamps for the 3/8 low pressure trans cooler line

HydroBoost fitting kit link: GM / Mopar hydroboost fittings -6 AN / JIC, Hot Rod, Jeep, Rock Crawler | eBay

3/8 Stainless Barbed T link: FOOD GRADE STAINLESS STEEL 3/8" BARB T TEE HOSE FITTING ADAPTER COUPLER SPLICER | eBay

2005 GMC Envoy/ Chevy Blazer 4-wheel disk brake master cylinder (Salvage unit $20)
Brake line adapters:
(1) 3/8-24 to 9/16-18 with 3/16 line Inverted flare Poly Armour part #PAA-R350 ($4.99)
(1) 3/8-24 to 1/2-20 with 3/16 line Inverted flare Poly Armour part # PAA-O370 ($4.99)
(2) m10X1.0 inverted flare Unions American Grease stick Co. #BLU-9C ($3.49 each)
(2) M10x1.0 brakeline nuts (I'm going to use ones off the vehicle from ABS) Autozone #BLF-40C-5 ($9.99)

All brake line adapters, nuts and unions were purchased at my local advance auto parts.

Hoses will be made to order at my local hosery Pacific Rubber. They've made many a hose for me over the years.

Power steering pump end of things, My pump is a mercedes unit so im using: -6AN to M16x1.5 o-ring power steering adapter from Earls fittings. EAR-961955 ($14.99)

Link if you're interested: EAR- 961955 Earl's -6 AN Male To 16mm x 1.5 O-Ring Power Steering Zinc Steel | eBay

Steering gear box high pressure adapter: -6AN to M16x1.5 inverted flare adapter ($16)
Link: -6 x 16-1.5mm Inverted Flare AN fitting, Metric made in USA | eBay

Brake Flaring tool set: Rented from your local parts place or your own.

Now, in theory this is how things should work. The Duramax cylinder mounting plate is removed from the booster. The Toyota brake booster gasket is laid over the hole in the plate and centered and squared up. Hopefully there is plenty of plate to work with. The gasket is used as reference for where to drill the bolt holes. The gasket is traced onto the mounting plate and the plate is cut down to a reasonable size. Bolt holes are drilled (hopefully for the proper size press in stud) If studs cant be pressed in you may have to weld some proper length stubs of cut-off bolts in place. Everything gets cleaned and painted, your cruisers master cylinder and brake booster are removed and the hydrobooster is test fit...in an ideal world the test fit goes great because you took your time and did things right. Now you have to remove the pedal push rod from the booster... Well ideally you would but most people I've seen don't, they clamp it in a vice or vice grips...or both. You cut off the factory eyelet from the brake push rod...now you take a Die and cut threads to match you factory clevis (m10x1.25?). Now you test fit the booster and check and adjust the push rod to fit your brake pedal. In this theoretical and ideal world everything seems fine and you don't have to drill a new hole in your brake pedal arm to relocate the clevis...we will see. With the booster fit you bolt it up the rest of the way and install the clevis pin and cotter pin.

So your booster is sitting pretty and looks like a useful addition, now to plumb it. First we need to cut down the brake line adapters. I'm thinking cutting it 3" end to end and bending in the middle with my line bender to 90* will work. So, you have an L-shaped line with a standard thread nut on it (either 1/2-20 or 9/16-18) slide a M10x1.0 nut on it with the threads pointing outward. Take the flaring tool clamp and place the line into the 3/16 slot. The tube hole should be on the flat side of the flaring bar almost flush. Now we take a file and file it nice and flush to the bar.... many people don't know to do this and screw up their flare. Next I like to use a counter sink bit to just remove the inner bur or the freshly filed line, you can use a drill 1/4 or larger drill bit if you'd like. Now remove the line from the flaring bar and make a slight bevel 1/8 or so all the way around using a file... or the appropriate tool if you own it. Place the line back in the flaring bar with the hole showing on the beveled side. you want to evenly clamp the line in place. How high does the line need to be? Well there are little reference steps on the flaring anvils. The line should stick above the flaring bar surface the same amount as the step on the proper size anvil (3/16 anvil). Now place the pin on the anvil in the line and place the clamp over it and clamp it down until you get a nice uniform bubble.Once you have the nice uniform bubble, remove the anvil and use the pointed cone of the anvil clamp and drive that down into the center hole nice and evenly...take your time flaring lines...do them once...not once every few minutes. Viola! now repeat the process with the other line adapter. Now your adapters are done, install them on the master with the "L" pointing up and lightly tighten them. Slide some clear vinyl tubing over the flare.... clamp the master in a vice or jig to hold it firmly while you bleed it. Pour clean brake fluid in the master and put the vinyl tubes in a container you can throw away... I use old water bottles. Press the piston on the master in a few times until fluid is coming out of the vinyl tubes and is a steady stream. Push some fluid out to ensure the adapters are clear of any debris. Now place the vinyl tubes into the top of the reservoir...Bleed all the air out of the master.

Now take your bench bled GM master cylinder and install it to the booster noting that the master should contact the boosters push rod and leave about 1/16th of an inch gap that needs compressed. You then bolt it to booster. Screw your M10x1.0 inverted flare unions onto the adapter lines, now slightly loosen your adapter line fittings at the master enough to allow you to rotate them downward. Rotate the lines and attach to your existing brake lines.

Well, You made it through that and all that is left is plumbing the booster itself. You'll need to remove the high pressure line from your steering gear box (Right side? as you're looking down at it from the front of the cruiser) and the Low pressure line (left?). Remove the line from your power steering pump (1FZ-FE remember Banjo fitting) (I remove a O-ringed flared line from the mercedes). Install your fittings in the booster or if you had the original booster and steering lines made into custom units disregard and carry on. Install the fitting in your power steering pump and steering gear box. Once again...if you're all fancy and had some one-off lines made carry on...I don't know why you're still reading this because all you need to do it make some connections and bleed the power steering and then the brake lines. For the rest of us who wanted more generic lines that will be easier to replace. We now measure the proper length lines by running some cheap 3/8 rubber hose or 1/2 diameter rope or play-do we rolled out...hey whatever you have that can imitate a line to get a measurement. Now the line on the passenger? side of the booster...that should be the high pressure line from the pump. Measure from there to your power steering pump outlet and Make note of the length. The next larger line on the driver? side of the booster; that should be the high pressure out to the steering gear box high pressure in adapter, Make note of that length. Then the little 5/16 to -6AN fitting...nobody cares about that one, just have some low pressure 3/8 transmission oil cooler line on hand to make that line. Go have your hoses made at the local hose peddler. Once you have your two high pressure hoses made in whichever flavor suited your tastes (stainless braided PTFE or rubber) install them with a bit of PTFE tape... or not....probably just overkill. Now push your -6AN push lock into the end of your cooler hose and attach it to the booster, this is the return line to the reservoir. Run the hose down to the steering gear box low pressure line, cut the low pressure line a few inches up from the gearbox fitting. Place a hose clamp on the line coming from the booster and insert the stainless barb fitting... I hope I don't have the explain the orientation of the fitting. Now, place a hose clamp over the perpendicular portion of the barbed fitting and insert the fitting into the steering box hose. now...either place a hose clamp on the remaining return hose and insert the barbed fitting and tighten all clamps or run a new fresh piece of hose to the power steering pump and tighten all clamps.

CHECK LIST: Booster is bolted securely to firewall
Pedal Push Rod of booster is mounted to pedal with pin and cotter pin
Master Cylinder is tightened down to the booster
Brake line adapters at master are tight
Both fittings going into the Unions are tight
The 3 fittings and -6 lines or custom hoses at the booster are tight
The Power steering pump fitting is tight
The steering gear box high pressure and low pressure fittings/ hoses are tight
The low pressure return line is plumbed as specified and the hose clamps are properly tightened

Congratulations. You now need only bleed your power steering system and bleed your brake lines. Hopefully it all works well.

A few things I will be doing differently. I will likely do an ABS and LSPV delete when I do my HydroBoost. I may also just do an ABS delete. Also, as mentioned I have a mercedes power steering pump and Hydro Assist steering....I may step down my ram size and add a cooler...we will see what happens...this is all still theoretical and ideal until it is reality and proven. I will make amendments to this write up and add pictures as I do the install.

 

[anothernord]

On to the Hydroboost update. I lost my mother on the 29th of December so things have been hectic dealing with everything. I should be starting work this next week. Meanwhile I ordered fittings for the hydro booster, the power steering pump and the steering gear box. I will try and document it as best as possible.

There are a couple places which offer hydroboost kits for the 80 series. Marks offers a bolt on kit for the HZJ/HDJ 80 series starting at just under $1100
Power Brake Service offers a bolt on booster option starting at $475+ shipping, $845 + Shipping with a master cylinder and hoses.

For those interested in hydroboosting their Land Cruiser for a lot less money...even if they buy the booster new online, here is a list of parts I'm using. Keep in mind your power steering pump fitting will vary, I am sure you can find a -6AN banjo fitting though for the 1fz-fe power steering pump if you wanted to go with AN fittings. Otherwise get your Booster with hoses like I did and actually have new custom hoses made from them and your old hoses. I'm using -6AN/JIC6 adapters for everything, you can have custom hoses made, I'm just shooting for easily replicated -6 stuff that can be done at a napa or logging store or coupler place etc... Keep in mind that you shouldn't use this for a reference until after I have verified that all these parts are correct and that they work properly. Also, any modifications you choose to do to your brake setup are your own choice, craftsmanship etc.. and should be done at your own risk and I am not held liable for your choices or vehicle modifications.

I will list the total cost and individual part costs when all is done.

2005 Chevy Silverado Duramax HydroBooster (salvage yard $70)
GM/Mopar hydroboost:
(1) -6AN to M16x1.5 bump tube adapter (bubble flare?)
(1) -6AN to M18x1.5 bump tube adapter (bubble flare?) this three piece adapter set was $32
(1) -6AN to 5/16-24 adapter
(1) 3/8 Barbed T fitting. ( I went with stainless food grade) ($6.80)
(? ft) 3/8 Low pressure trans cooler hose
(1) -6AN 90* push lock fitting or 120*? to be determined
(3) Hose clamps for the 3/8 low pressure trans cooler line

HydroBoost fitting kit link: GM / Mopar hydroboost fittings -6 AN / JIC, Hot Rod, Jeep, Rock Crawler | eBay

3/8 Stainless Barbed T link: FOOD GRADE STAINLESS STEEL 3/8" BARB T TEE HOSE FITTING ADAPTER COUPLER SPLICER | eBay

2005 GMC Envoy/ Chevy Blazer 4-wheel disk brake master cylinder (Salvage unit $20)
Brake line adapters:
(1) 3/8-24 to 9/16-18 with 3/16 line Inverted flare Poly Armour part #PAA-R350 ($4.99)
(1) 3/8-24 to 1/2-20 with 3/16 line Inverted flare Poly Armour part # PAA-O370 ($4.99)
(2) m10X1.0 inverted flare Unions American Grease stick Co. #BLU-9C ($3.49 each)
(2) M10x1.0 brakeline nuts (I'm going to use ones off the vehicle from ABS) Autozone #BLF-40C-5 ($9.99)

All brake line adapters, nuts and unions were purchased at my local advance auto parts.

Hoses will be made to order at my local hosery Pacific Rubber. They've made many a hose for me over the years.

Power steering pump end of things, My pump is a mercedes unit so im using: -6AN to M16x1.5 o-ring power steering adapter from Earls fittings. EAR-961955 ($14.99)

Link if you're interested: EAR- 961955 Earl's -6 AN Male To 16mm x 1.5 O-Ring Power Steering Zinc Steel | eBay

Steering gear box high pressure adapter: -6AN to M16x1.5 inverted flare adapter ($16)
Link: -6 x 16-1.5mm Inverted Flare AN fitting, Metric made in USA | eBay

Brake Flaring tool set: Rented from your local parts place or your own.

Now, in theory this is how things should work. The Duramax cylinder mounting plate is removed from the booster. The Toyota brake booster gasket is laid over the hole in the plate and centered and squared up. Hopefully there is plenty of plate to work with. The gasket is used as reference for where to drill the bolt holes. The gasket is traced onto the mounting plate and the plate is cut down to a reasonable size. Bolt holes are drilled (hopefully for the proper size press in stud) If studs cant be pressed in you may have to weld some proper length stubs of cut-off bolts in place. Everything gets cleaned and painted, your cruisers master cylinder and brake booster are removed and the hydrobooster is test fit...in an ideal world the test fit goes great because you took your time and did things right. Now you have to remove the pedal push rod from the booster... Well ideally you would but most people I've seen don't, they clamp it in a vice or vice grips...or both. You cut off the factory eyelet from the brake push rod...now you take a Die and cut threads to match you factory clevis (m10x1.25?). Now you test fit the booster and check and adjust the push rod to fit your brake pedal. In this theoretical and ideal world everything seems fine and you don't have to drill a new hole in your brake pedal arm to relocate the clevis...we will see. With the booster fit you bolt it up the rest of the way and install the clevis pin and cotter pin.

So your booster is sitting pretty and looks like a useful addition, now to plumb it. First we need to cut down the brake line adapters. I'm thinking cutting it 3" end to end and bending in the middle with my line bender to 90* will work. So, you have an L-shaped line with a standard thread nut on it (either 1/2-20 or 9/16-18) slide a M10x1.0 nut on it with the threads pointing outward. Take the flaring tool clamp and place the line into the 3/16 slot. The tube hole should be on the flat side of the flaring bar almost flush. Now we take a file and file it nice and flush to the bar.... many people don't know to do this and screw up their flare. Next I like to use a counter sink bit to just remove the inner bur or the freshly filed line, you can use a drill 1/4 or larger drill bit if you'd like. Now remove the line from the flaring bar and make a slight bevel 1/8 or so all the way around using a file... or the appropriate tool if you own it. Place the line back in the flaring bar with the hole showing on the beveled side. you want to evenly clamp the line in place. How high does the line need to be? Well there are little reference steps on the flaring anvils. The line should stick above the flaring bar surface the same amount as the step on the proper size anvil (3/16 anvil). Now place the pin on the anvil in the line and place the clamp over it and clamp it down until you get a nice uniform bubble.Once you have the nice uniform bubble, remove the anvil and use the pointed cone of the anvil clamp and drive that down into the center hole nice and evenly...take your time flaring lines...do them once...not once every few minutes. Viola! now repeat the process with the other line adapter. Now your adapters are done, install them on the master with the "L" pointing up and lightly tighten them. Slide some clear vinyl tubing over the flare.... clamp the master in a vice or jig to hold it firmly while you bleed it. Pour clean brake fluid in the master and put the vinyl tubes in a container you can throw away... I use old water bottles. Press the piston on the master in a few times until fluid is coming out of the vinyl tubes and is a steady stream. Push some fluid out to ensure the adapters are clear of any debris. Now place the vinyl tubes into the top of the reservoir...Bleed all the air out of the master.

Now take your bench bled GM master cylinder and install it to the booster noting that the master should contact the boosters push rod and leave about 1/16th of an inch gap that needs compressed. You then bolt it to booster. Screw your M10x1.0 inverted flare unions onto the adapter lines, now slightly loosen your adapter line fittings at the master enough to allow you to rotate them downward. Rotate the lines and attach to your existing brake lines.

Well, You made it through that and all that is left is plumbing the booster itself. You'll need to remove the high pressure line from your steering gear box (Right side? as you're looking down at it from the front of the cruiser) and the Low pressure line (left?). Remove the line from your power steering pump (1FZ-FE remember Banjo fitting) (I remove a O-ringed flared line from the mercedes). Install your fittings in the booster or if you had the original booster and steering lines made into custom units disregard and carry on. Install the fitting in your power steering pump and steering gear box. Once again...if you're all fancy and had some one-off lines made carry on...I don't know why you're still reading this because all you need to do it make some connections and bleed the power steering and then the brake lines. For the rest of us who wanted more generic lines that will be easier to replace. We now measure the proper length lines by running some cheap 3/8 rubber hose or 1/2 diameter rope or play-do we rolled out...hey whatever you have that can imitate a line to get a measurement. Now the line on the passenger? side of the booster...that should be the high pressure line from the pump. Measure from there to your power steering pump outlet and Make note of the length. The next larger line on the driver? side of the booster; that should be the high pressure out to the steering gear box high pressure in adapter, Make note of that length. Then the little 5/16 to -6AN fitting...nobody cares about that one, just have some low pressure 3/8 transmission oil cooler line on hand to make that line. Go have your hoses made at the local hose peddler. Once you have your two high pressure hoses made in whichever flavor suited your tastes (stainless braided PTFE or rubber) install them with a bit of PTFE tape... or not....probably just overkill. Now push your -6AN push lock into the end of your cooler hose and attach it to the booster, this is the return line to the reservoir. Run the hose down to the steering gear box low pressure line, cut the low pressure line a few inches up from the gearbox fitting. Place a hose clamp on the line coming from the booster and insert the stainless barb fitting... I hope I don't have the explain the orientation of the fitting. Now, place a hose clamp over the perpendicular portion of the barbed fitting and insert the fitting into the steering box hose. now...either place a hose clamp on the remaining return hose and insert the barbed fitting and tighten all clamps or run a new fresh piece of hose to the power steering pump and tighten all clamps.

CHECK LIST: Booster is bolted securely to firewall
Pedal Push Rod of booster is mounted to pedal with pin and cotter pin
Master Cylinder is tightened down to the booster
Brake line adapters at master are tight
Both fittings going into the Unions are tight
The 3 fittings and -6 lines or custom hoses at the booster are tight
The Power steering pump fitting is tight
The steering gear box high pressure and low pressure fittings/ hoses are tight
The low pressure return line is plumbed as specified and the hose clamps are properly tightened

Congratulations. You now need only bleed your power steering system and bleed your brake lines. Hopefully it all works well.

A few things I will be doing differently. I will likely do an ABS and LSPV delete when I do my HydroBoost. I may also just do an ABS delete. Also, as mentioned I have a mercedes power steering pump and Hydro Assist steering....I may step down my ram size and add a cooler...we will see what happens...this is all still theoretical and ideal until it is reality and proven. I will make amendments to this write up and add pictures as I do the install.

Wow man, I'm so sorry for your loss. That's got to be incredibly hard. Glad you're able to work on this crazy hydroboost setup to keep yourself busy.

I'm not very familiar with hydroboost setups, but do you think that the 606 power steering pump will produce enough pressure and flow to run both systems? I suppose you'll be hard pressed to find yourself in a situation where you're turning and braking heavily at the same time, but then again, you never know, haha.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Hey to anyone who reads my thread build thread. You know I really need to consolidate all of my work onto one page because its getting pretty mixed around and spread out. Anyway, Hydroboost brakes. So far I have cut down, re-drilled and welded some bolts to the original duramax mounting plate, mounted booster...which is about as tight of a fit as the original with respect to the mercedes intake manifold, and checked the push rod stub to pedal distance. There is a gap of less than an inch between the pushrod end and the clevis that needs to be bridged. I threaded the cut-off push rod and attempted to find a M10x1.25 coupling nut...which only exists online apparently to use to bridge the gap. The plan at the moment is to drill out an off size 5/16 coupling nut (has thick walls) and tap it to m10x1.25. Then I will clean the bottom of the clevis, use a 16-20mm long button head socket screw (m10x1.25) and drive that in through the front of the clevis. I will then tack the screw in place. Then the coupling nut will be threaded down flat to the clevis and also tacked in place. then the new lengthened clevis will we threaded on and adjusted and I will move forward with the install. I'm behind because I bought a 2003 Sequoia and have been ordering all the maintenance parts and broken parts and dealing with a detailing shop that did a sub-par job. When the cruiser is driving and everything is working as it should I will re-sell the sequoia. Meanwhile I have to fight the urges to covert it to 4x4...yeah...its a 2wd lol, I figured if I bought a 100 series I wouldn't re-sell it and I would just dump all my money into it. I already have too many cars and projects, then I thought a 2wd sequoia... I would definitely re-sell that...until I found out its a bolt on affair to convert it to 4x4 and my salvage yard connection said he could do the whole conversion for $1k LOL. I just have to fight it until the cruiser is driving. I actually quite enjoy the sequoia So much room for activities. I will add pictures when all is said and done and I am going to edit my initial post to reflect lessons learned so far.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Its been a month and its time to update. I completed the hydroboost install and deleted the ABS and LSPV while I was in there. I have yet to bleed the brakes because I have need of a brake bleeding buddy to push a pedal. Things I have figured out. You don't need a coupling nut with the short rod booster. You need to drill another hole in the brake pedal just above the original clevis pin hole. The reason for this is to put the pushrod at a straighter angle and the side effect is it closes the distance between clevis and pushrod. I will have to upload pictures from my phone to the computer. Lessons learned from the install: You cant get proper hose fittings to make things look neat so you may as well have your factory hose and the hydroboost hoses made into a hybrid unless you have a welder, then you can just cut off the chevy ends like I did and weld -6 steel fittings to them to utilize a generic straight hydraulic line. This means that you also don't need the fittings for the hydroboost unit. I did consider and am still considering going with -6 threaded Banjo bolt ends which are the same cost and can be purchased from summit racing. Even though the brakes aren't bled they still seem to work ok for having so much air in the system. I just have to hope that the power steering pump can hold up to the demands of the hydro-assist steering and hydroboost brakes. I do need to downsize the ram for the steering though, that's something I have been meaning to do for some time. If the pump isn't sufficient I can easily go back to vacuum boost brakes so no worries there. This whole experiment has cost under $200 and hopefully works well, if not then at least I have learned a lesson and nothing on the cruiser has been permanently altered...except for the T-fitting under the master cylinder, but I'm Sure I can get one for relatively cheap at the wrecking yard. That's it for now, I have to bleed the brakes and swap the tiny turbo and see if the over-fuelling issue persists and figure out whether the pump has to go back to Diesel Pumps UK.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Well, I got the brakes bled and the small turbo swapped with a known good unit. The brakes work well for a system lacking a proportioning valve...except that the pedal is slow to rebound. I figured that one out fairly quickly...like everything else...it was a bad booster, The booster is leaking power steering fluid at the rear of the housing. I bled the brakes and ran around a little realizing the over-fueling issue is likely not a boost related issue. I will test the engine but I'm thinking the original diagnosis of a damaged injection pump is the culprit. I have to be careful throwing money at it because of the VA's recent decision to screw with my benefits and pay. My most recent Comp-Pen evaluation didn't go well and I'm just waiting to get hosed at the moment. The green weenie strikes again. Anyway, I decided I'm not screwing around with another hydroboost unit and I ordered a remaned Aisin vacuum booster. I will have to bleed brakes again...but the booster and master are new lol. I should be able to fix the T-fitting I cut from the bracket pretty easily. I just won a working OM603 turbo diesel injection Pump for next to nothing on ebay also. So the tentative plan is to install that pump and remove the big turbo from the equation and reinstall the stock turbo set up for boost actuated wastegate. I will essentially have a stock OM606 turbo engine with the exception of potentially fewer ponies. I can turn the pump up to fix that if its a big issue. Meanwhile, if by some miracle the VA doesn't take my pay away and make me homeless I will have the DPUK pump tested here. They want me to send it back to the UK and that's a lot of money in shipping and then I have to pay customs all over again. I am going to call Portland Diesel Fuel Injection Services and see if they are able to test and calibrate the pump and how much they want. I'm reluctant to ship it back across the pond only to receive it damaged yet again. Anyway, I'm growing tired of all the mishaps and crap luck and at this point I'm just hoping to get it roadworthy. Once its roadworthy I will worry about the monster injection pump. That's my update to date. Thanks for tuning in @thatcabledude. I grow jealous of your V8 swap by the day lol.

 

[thatcabledude]

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Okay, I received my injection pump on the 19th, mail lost it lol. When it got here....shipping damaged just like the DPUK unit. I took the side cover off and 4 of 6 elements were detached and the rack was completely dislodged. Luckily, while I was waiting for the post office to find my lost pump that I figured they'd never find, I purchased a second stock pump from a running car 3 hours south of me off ebay. I went and picked it up the 21st and test drove the cruiser today. Stock Om606 turbo...wastegate held shut and actuator removed; and a completely unmolested (ALDA hasn't been touched) pump.
I haven't made an exhaust but everything else is done. I took it for a test drive and drove several laps around and went down to the fuel station to fill the tank with diesel.

I am definitely running too high of gear, I'm sure this has been part of my problem with driveability this whole time. The few other swaps that have been done are running smaller tires and transmissions with a lower first gear. I was curious to see whether or not the cruiser would operate the same as it did with the automatic and 4.10's and it definitely doesn't. If I put it in 2-low for taking off it gets on it hard. Using 2-hi its still a little stumbley and slow off the line, but there is a noticeable difference with the stock 603 pump compared to the built unit. The cruiser doesn't try to die, doesn't stumble as bad, recovers more quickly from stumbling, doesn't overfuel and has substantially less power, lol.

The EGT's are much lower than before and surprisingly the tiny turbo put out 22 PSI at the intake pulling a hill in 2nd today... that's about double the factory rating, read limited to 9-11psi by Mercedes.

Anyway, its decision making time. Do I regear to 4.88, 5.29's and compromise strength, or do I Upgrade to 1 tons with lower gears? There are ford super duty Dana axles that show up on CL for cheap every now and then running 5.71's? I could have the rear shortened on one side and possible have the front tubes flipped flopped and narrowed. Then I would sell my locked front and rear and my spare unlocked front and rear axles to recoup cost. OR... I could invest even more money and get the r452 input and counter shaft and rebuild the R150 with those gears effectively giving me a much lower first gear and a 30% overdrive, I would need to price that out. Or the last option which was always in the back of my mind, buy the adapter set and a 4l60/4l80 and run an np203/split case doubler. I could then sell my R150f set-up for a split case, flywheel, clutch, adapter, clutch pedal, master etc... to someone else who wants to do the swap but doesn't plan on running 37+ inch tires but wants a 5-speed diesel and 25 ish MPG's. I suppose it all boils down to future finances and how much work I want to do.

Regearing would be the least amount of work for sure, I would just pull my differentials and have the work done and bearings refreshed, then reinstall them. Anyway, other than messing with the timing a little to see if I can get more driveability out of it, making the new temporary exhaust, adjusting the upper suspension link (redid the mount and im a few hundred pounds lighter now too) and re-bleeding and adjusting the brakes, there isn't anything keeping me from driving it.

I picked up an 07 ford E350 6.0 Van intercooler for cheap of CL, I'm going to see about cleaning up the intercooler situation in time, as well as finding a single turbo that works well with the built injection pump. I have a 7cm^2 turbine housing HE221w from a 4.2L cummins ISB I think may fit the bill, if not I am looking into having a hybrid built that will offer low RPM flow and pressure; the HE221w should offer low rpm spool and flow well up until about the 4200rpm range, though I'm not sure it will flow enough to max out the built injection pump. Anyway, thanks for taking the time to read my ramblings.

 

[Bryan Plunkett]

Is the 603 pump running the 5.5 elements still? I think the 606 stock turbo runs up to 19psi if I'm not mistaken.

I've definitely found the 606 to not have the off idle grunt of a Cummins, but by 2k rpm, or maybe a little before, it's been feeling very strong

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Is the 603 pump running the 5.5 elements still? I think the 606 stock turbo runs up to 19psi if I'm not mistaken.

I've definitely found the 606 to not have the off idle grunt of a Cummins, but by 2k rpm, or maybe a little before, it's been feeling very strong

Bryan, I'm glad to read that your project is also up and running. The OM606 doesn't have the off idle grunt of a cummins because its an over-square built engine. Larger bore than stroke, that's why they can rev so incredibly high and drive like a gas engine. The 603 pump I'm running at the moment is just a stock 5.5mm element pump...it's pretty ragged too. The shutoff lever needs some viagra as it doesn't stay up of its own free will and gets a bit droopy causing rough idle. It also still has the factory seal on the alda and sealant on the idle screws. It literally hasn't been messed with which is rare. I am going to see about shipping my DPUK injection pump back this week and I guess just crossing my fingers that it doesn't come back damaged yet again. If it does, it won't go back a third time. I will demand a spec sheet and that they pay to have it adjusted at my local bosch service shop, they probably won't go for it but I can always dream.

 

[Bryan Plunkett]

Yea the shorter stroke isn't helping, it's also half the displacement of a 6bt and I imagine the cam on the 606 is setup for higher rpm too. I've driven a vehicle with the cummins 2.8 (slightly undersquare engine) and it was pretty gutless until the turbo got going (again I imagine the cam is setup for higher rpm)

I'd like to think if you can get a little more fuel in down low you might be able to get that turbo spooled up sooner. My truck is geared a bit low (4.3 axle with 31s) so it isn't the best comparison, but even if I throw it in 5th and the rpm is below 2k, it still pulls good after ~1 second of turbo lag.

Also before I swapped axle gearing I'd throw on some smaller tires to test out how it feels (ie try some 33s and 31s) before actually getting into the axles.