Mercedes OM606 turbo Diesel 80 series Land Cruiser (2 Viewers)

[LandCruisinMy93]

So, the temp transmission crossmember was just a piece of 3/16 plate with 2 slotted holes for the transmission isolator to bolt to tack welded to the top of the existing crossmember. Then I trimmed the crossmember to fit around the split case and added some gussets and made it neat. I Fully welded everything and plated in the cut out area. I dont know where those pictures went. Then it was painted in a gloss black epoxy paint.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

The drivetrain was bolted in place using the new transmission crossmember and the engine squared up in the engine bay. Measurement's were taken and some simple motor mounts were made to fit the stock Mercedes fluid filled mounts. The mounts were gusseted and welded to backing plates then bolted to the motor mounts and everything was checked again. The transmission mount and straightness of the drivetrain and height etc... Mounts were tacked in place after a height adjustment was considered. The fan clutch, fan blade, core support and radiator were added and checked. I then removed the drivetrain once again.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

I removed my upper link mount which was caving the frame in where it was mounted. I cleaned the frame and filled and flap disked all grinder marks. I made a long scab plate to weld the mount to and welded the mount back on. I then fully welded the motor mounts to the chassis and painted them with black epoxy paint.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

I then made the final installation of the drivetrain...or so I thought. This was the final result. a tight fit on the driver side and some decent clearance on the passenger side. The engine sits back several inches further than the original 1FZ-FE and is much lighter. The entire engine, transmission and body wiring harnesses were labeled with blue painters tape. So were the fuel supply and return lines. I removed the crimped screw on portion from the fuel supply line and saved it to make the new fuel supply line.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Then it was onto the process of tracing wires, de-pinning plugs and cutting branched wires to get rid of all of the unnecessary fuel injection and transmission wires. the left overs were re-taped, re-loomed and reinstalled with the proper harness fasteners. The new engine harness was mounted with fir tree zip ties at the firewall. The fuze box was opened up and de-pinned of unnecessary relays etc as well. New power wires were made and ran through the existing body harness to the passenger side for the alternator.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

New alternator wiring was split into 2 wires instead of merged like factory. I figure its a safer and more efficient method of carrying the current. New terminals were crimped and then tinned on. The tachometer converter was wired into existing power and ground from the factory harness and wires were ran for the sensor. A digital boost gauge (Red wire), Glow plug lamp (blue wire) and Pyrometer were added to the harness before installation.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Pay attention to the pictures and you can actually see the progress. These just show the final stages of the wiring. Forgive the blue silicone coolant hose, the local parts stores didn't have 1/2" heater hose and the local rubber supply house only had it in silicone but didn't have the 5/8" heater hose to match. Whatever. I replaced the rear heater lines and replaced the hoses with silicone hose too while the engine was out.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

The finishing touches, I ran the AC power wire back to the driver side through the harness and put a new weather pack terminal on the end, tinned it on and put the stock Mercedes AC plug on the end. I try and pay attention to the little details when I do things like this. I don't do butt connectors and Spade connectors for almost anything. I make all the connections I can with solder and shrink tube and factory terminals except where there aren't any like the alarm system.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

For the clutch pedal and floor board modifications I removed the interior. I used the clutch pedal to make a cardboard template to cut down the brake pedal. The clutch and Brake pedal foot pads are the same so that made life easier. I made the template, removed the brake pedal, taped it off and traced the template onto it. I trimmed and contoured the pedal pad surface. Then Installed it temporarily. Getting a new pedal was my original plan, but you can't get them anymore. You can still buy the Clutch Puzzle...yup Puzzle. You buy all of the separate parts and assemble it yourself. I ended up not needing the assist portion which is a long plastic piece with 2 pins and 2 springs...more money that could have been saved.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

So, the clutch pedal installation, I wont bore you with pictures of. The firewall grommet is where the master goes through is present as well as a hard to find mounting hole under the dash. You just have to double nut the stud on the master cylinder and poke the master through the firewall. Then find an inventive way to hold it there while you line up the pedal and mark to drill a hole for the stud on the pedal bracket. Then mount the slave and mark the firewall on the engine side to drill the hole for the stud coming off the master cylinder. Viola! I went with an Aisin master and an AN adapter and had a braided steel clutch line made. I also got the AN adapter for the slave cylinder for ease of line manufacturing.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Once the clutch pedal was in and the assist removed and the system bled I removed the brake pedal for final bending and adjustment since the pedals were so close together. Then I gave it a few coats of epoxy black and replaced the bushings before installation...why not? Then I removed the fuel pump and made a pickup tube. Later to be removed and a small mesh filter added because it was picking up tank trash that didn't come out when I drained and flushed the tank. I then removed the filler neck from the tank and cut the restrictor out using a body saw.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Notice where the shift tower came out on the transmission? Not a coincidence. Also, I removed the breather from the transmission and transfer case and tapped them for 1/8 NPT, added a 90* fitting and a barbed fitting to run my plumbing since I do make it into water a few times a year. The transmission tunnel was drilled in the approximate area of the transfer shift lever and then slowly enlarged using a body saw to get the hole correct. You can see where I had to hammer the floorboard up for the shift linkage. I later smoothed it out as much as possible during the body work portion of the transfer case shifter modifications. I also actually had to bend the shift lever quite a few times to get it to my liking. It originally interfered with the dash where it came through.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Well, my original idea to cut and splice and manipulate the original material didn't work so I made a whole new section after a bit too much frustration. It was all welded in, reinforced from the back side around the shifter hole then rust treated and a whole tube of seam sealer applied with body filler spatulas to the underside and surrounding areas. The shape of the tunnel and hole were dictated by the metal ring seen above which goes around the base of the transfer case shift lever boot. The boot is from an HZJ79. The original transmission shifter floor plate was cleaned of all the brackets I could and repainted. The original sub boot was used. The old transmission selector lever hole was packed full of seam sealer and the transmission shifter popped through the old transfer shift lever hole. I cut the 80 series shift boot plate cover in half and used it and one boot to seal around the shifter since the sub boot left some gap. This could have been made better by bending the transmission shifter a bit to the passenger side. I may do that yet. My plan is to make a new forward console that incorporates a shift boot, my original CB loud speaker, auxiliary system switches, boost and pyrometer gauges and maybe a CUP HOLDER lol.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

pics of sound deadening

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

pics of thermozite and felt padding install

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

pics of installed carpet and interior

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

reserved for when I buy and install replacement carpet

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

I would have loved to use thicker metal for the intercooler mounting bracket, but it was a saturday and the metal suppliers were already closed when I started this. I had to go with what was available at the home supply nearby. I bent some hooks to hold the weight and then added bolt tabs to hold the intercooler. I then added horizontal supports and some brackets to mount wherever I could find a spot to bolt it to existing locations.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

I cut holes for the intercooler tubing to pass through the core support and added some elbows. I fit the lower valance and made sure everything cleared and did my final welding adding a hood latch bracket also for the missing vertical support.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

So I mentioned earlier about how the original compound setup didn't fit. The wastegate adapter for the Turbo Smart HyperGate 45 wastegate was 2 Mercedes triangle flanges separated by a 2" length of .250 wall tube with a slightly smaller diameter tube shooting off on side that the wastegate attached to. The idea was to have an external wastegate before the primary turbo, the factory K14. The wastegate is dialed into the boost pressure of the secondary turbo. When the back pressure becomes too great at the primary turbine housing that boost level at the secondary turbo is what the wastegate is set to. So, stay with me...as the primary small turbo breaches the desired back pressure ratio the secondary turbos boost pressure activates the wastegate and bypasses that pressure straight to the big turbo. As soon as boost begins to drop on the big turbo the wastegate closes off and all exhaust gasses are back to driving the small turbo. Anyway, the adapter was too bulky, the exhaust outlet of the big turbo was almost on the firewall and the big turbo was resting on the shock tower. So I got a schedule 80 3" pipe and made a tapered horn to attach a triangle flange round 1.5" outlet to a rectangle T3 flange. I then incorporated the wastegate tube. The above adapter is what came out. By the time everything had been welded and cut apart and re-welded none of the flanges were flat and all leaked. I purchased new exhaust V-band flange and wastegate flanges. I then spent several hours after rewelding lapping the surfaces together for a tight fit. The flanges were dissimilar metal (stainless to mild steel). Lastly I added an EGT bung for the Pyrometer.