Member Needs Help

[fourtrax]

could it be this?


another leak here

Coolant leak by engine/transmission connection?

Hi - My 2004 Sequoia has been losing coolant lately. I got a loaner perssure tester and determined what seemed to be two issues: 1) the cap was not holding pressure very well so I replaced it, and 2) when I pumped up the pressure in the cooling system to 13 PSI, I discovered that there was...

www.tundrasolutions.com

 

[neslrac]

could it be this?


another leak here

Coolant leak by engine/transmission connection?

Hi - My 2004 Sequoia has been losing coolant lately. I got a loaner perssure tester and determined what seemed to be two issues: 1) the cap was not holding pressure very well so I replaced it, and 2) when I pumped up the pressure in the cooling system to 13 PSI, I discovered that there was...

www.tundrasolutions.com

That is very interesting and could be my problem. Today, I wiped down all the coolant I could find, started the truck and let it get to operating temperature and then let it run for ~20 minutes. I checked for leaks and they only one I could see was at the radiator. I'm going to replace it on Saturday and then pressure test the entire system. If it doesn't pass the test, the intake manifold is coming off. Its much easier than pulling a transmission and checking a freeze plug. I did pull the truck out of the shop and tried 4 high. Does not engage and sounds like two gears rubbing. Very loud and scary. 4 low works fine, pushed hard on the brakes and checked for tranny slippage which I have none. The brakes would not hold back the truck. So my wishful thinking is new radiator and all the coolant that has been dripping from strange places will disappear and the 4 high issue is a simple fix. I will know very soon. Thank you for your helpful suggestions.

 

[neslrac]

A big thank you to fourtrax for finding the above video. That was indeed my coolant leak in addition to the radiator. I removed the intake plenum and there was a pool of antifreeze on top of the engine. The coolant bypass pipe came out with zero resistance. The o-ring was hard and brittle, definitely not replaced when the timing belt and water pump was 50k ago by PO. Decided to replace the contacts and plunger on the starter and was glad I did because they were on their last leg. The removal of the starter is a real PITA. Took me as long to remove the starter as it did to get the intake off, ~ 2 hrs. You need either small hands or long fingers and I have neither. There is a blind bolt that is behind thick wiring harness and zero room to work. I was laying across the engine bay using moving blankets to keep thinks from penetrating my body. I would hate to have to do this out on the trail. Starter rebuilt, new o-ring, new radiator, hoses etc and all is buttoned up and torqued to specs. I removed the TC today and I have it on the bench. 4 low works, center diff works in 4 high and 4 low. 4 high does not engage at all, both front and rear drives spin freely. The linkage was fine externally because I had to remove it and the clip that holds it on. Any idea what I should look for when I dissect it? Do you think it will be obvious? I watched OTRAMM video on youtube twice so I have an idea but he does not go into detail about the shifting and engaging stuff. This is getting fun. Suggestions welcomed.

 

[izzyandsue]

Glad you figured that one! Now the TC...

 

[izzyandsue]

" Drove over a set of RR tracks and heard a grinding noise"

 

[fourtrax]

i think it will be obvious take plenty of pictures and make sure you have a good pair of snap ring pliers. you have a couple good size rings in there. you might even want to replace them once you get them off. i think one of the keepers broke or came out that hold the shift fork to the rod for high range. or you will find a couple gears with no teeth (but, doubt it).

 

[neslrac]

Fourtrax, should I replace any bearings or just the snap rings. These TC are bullet proof and I don't want to do more than is necessary. My plan right now is to find which gear assembly is causing problems, replace the parts and put it all back together again. I don't have a parts washer, I use diesel and a 5 gallon bucket. Do you think I can get away with just dealing with the gear assembly that is broken and assemble everything as is or am I short cutting it. I am OCD but I don't want to do unnecessary work. I guess I will have a better idea once I open it and see the condition of everything. This is completely new to me so I apologize for the newbie questions.

 

[fourtrax]

i wouldn 't replace anything that didn't need it. i am betting it is something simple. i bet it is pretty clean since you didn't see anything in the transfer case fluid. ask away but, i am just a monkey with a wrench myself .

get a piece of cardboard and draw a picture of the rear of the case on it then cut or drill a hole where the bolts are located. as you remove the bolts put them in the corresponding holes ( include any washers or cable/hose guides that are with the bolts). this way you wont put a long bolt in a short hole.

 

[neslrac]

Update on Kurt's school of hard knocks. The TC was not my problem. After removing it, pulling it apart and inspecting it, I knew I missed something and I did. I went back on MUD last night and searched until I found two other people that had the same issue. Drives in 4 low but not in 4 high. The front spindle is shot, transfer case thinks the tire is off the ground and sends all torque to the front and nothing to the rear. With an "open diff" the driveline power follows the path of least resistance. If you've got a bad axle/drive plate/front differential, the driveline power will spin the broken part(s) and not move the vehicle. If you "lock" the center diff, the front and rear driveshafts turn at equal speeds, it prevents all of the power from "leaking out" the broken part, and you move. I did not do this step out of ignorance and/or stupidity. I am learning though. My front passenger spindle is shot as well as the bearings and who knows what else. I plan to rebuild the entire front end, new CV axles, bearings, races etc. Who ever worked on this truck previously must have used an impact wrench to put the cones washers on. All that also needs to be replaced with new. I feel stupid but I did learn a lot removing and tearing apart the TC. It's built like a brick $hit house. I should have looked at all the obvious first and I thought I did. So its now back to the shop to put the finishing touches on the TC assembly. You may now throw the darts

 

[izzyandsue]

Let me know when you are doing all that, i can hold a wrench and say encouraging things while you do it.

 

[fourtrax]

I call up the dealer and chew them out tell them want your money back they didn't even diagnose the correct issue

 

[neslrac]

I called Johnson Lexus in Raleigh and explained what was wrong with my truck and what they diagnosed and quoted me. Front passenger flange splines are stripped but they quoted me a new TC at a cost of $6100. They apologized for the error and did right by refunding me the $160 diagnostic fee. So I in turn bought myself a present with the refund

 

[JohnVee]

That was mighty nice of them. I bet you felt touched by Johnson. Wink wink.

 

[stevezero]

Solid axle swap from an 80. (someone had to say it) disregard the lugnut mismatch

 

[jfz80]

So spindle or drive flange was bad? My bet was Drive flange for the beginning and I thought it was mentioned. But only birf, in your case CV stub or flange make sense to me how does a bad spindle prevent forward movement?

 

[neslrac]

The LX 470 is back on the road. Replaced all seals, gaskets, CV axles, bearings and flanges on the passenger and drivers side. Had to redo the passenger CV axle because I didn't get it seated in the diff correctly and noticed it slid out about an inch once I had everything together. I pulled very hard on it the first time and thought it was seated correctly. Second time around, I compressed the boots as hard as I could and pounded the end of the axle with my biggest rubber mallet. Working late into the night, I tend to make stupid mistakes. Finished installing bearings, set preload, installed brake caliper, flange etc and looked to my left and what is sitting on the floor, the brake dust cover and gasket. Off comes the caliper and disk and I go through the process of setting preload and torquing everything down for the up tenth time. New radiator, hoses, rebuilt starter and I reinstalled the center diff that I removed, pulled apart, re-assembled and installed. Took it for a test drive and CRAP, center diff light will not go out. I can hear the motor but it apparently is not engaging with the clutch pin. Bad thoughts are going through my head, pull the TC, open it back up, what the heck is wrong. Decided to call my mentor, fourtrax and came up with a game plan. Lower the trans and TC 2" to get access, remove the motor actuator, press the center diff switch to put it in actuator mode, reinstall and retest. The first time I pulled this motor out, it was not actuated, but this time around, when I pulled it, the gear spinned back to normal state. I decided to reinstall and test before I press the center diff switch and actuate the motor. That fixed it Center diff locks in 4 low and in 4 high when I press the button but most importantly, it unlocks also. This whole experience was one hard lesson after another. I wish I had all the SST tools that are mentioned in the FSM but I made do with what I had. Many thanks to all that contributed ideas, suggestions and encouragement. Now it's back to working on the 80, rebuild the passenger brake caliper and install my new rear bumper. Fun stuff.

 

[izzyandsue]

So now you can be my mentor when I get my 100?

 

[neslrac]

So now you can be my mentor when I get my 100?

Not sure about the mentor role but I can hold a wrench and say encouraging things while you do it Are you in the market for a 100? I pulled the instrument panel last night and I found at least have of the bulbs are shot. Going to replace all of them on Monday. Its a lot of work owning a 22 yr old truck.