Now including the Uma I was thinking of....
Builds Meet Uma and not the one you are thinking of (3 Viewers)
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- Thread starter
- #102
I put this out there on all of my socials
I have been working on it just not making the progress that I want to be having. Mainly just small minor stuff just to button up things that can be done, namely mounting the fire extinguisher, running the cb antenna wire and fixing it out of the way and not seen, cleaning paint off of the windows and wiring the lights back up.
I took the transmission and transfer case to work where I have access to an industrial size parts washer. The transmission was not that bad to clean up.
I put the transfer case in the heated parts washer for 3 one hour increments and it came out a lot better then I thought it would and clean enough to start the reassembly process.
I have been working on it just not making the progress that I want to be having. Mainly just small minor stuff just to button up things that can be done, namely mounting the fire extinguisher, running the cb antenna wire and fixing it out of the way and not seen, cleaning paint off of the windows and wiring the lights back up.
I took the transmission and transfer case to work where I have access to an industrial size parts washer. The transmission was not that bad to clean up.
I put the transfer case in the heated parts washer for 3 one hour increments and it came out a lot better then I thought it would and clean enough to start the reassembly process.
- Thread starter
- #103
I finally got all of the right seals and got them installed. The transmission and transfer case cleaned up and put back together.
This evening i got so excited that i installed the transmission and got it mated up against the engine. I went through the passenger door with an engine hoist since i still have the passenger seat fuel tank and cover removed.
Next comes getting the clutch to work. But i have the throw out bearing and clutch fork installed.
This evening i got so excited that i installed the transmission and got it mated up against the engine. I went through the passenger door with an engine hoist since i still have the passenger seat fuel tank and cover removed.
Next comes getting the clutch to work. But i have the throw out bearing and clutch fork installed.
firefighterjed
SILVER Star
Awesome job Dan. Keep it up!!
- Thread starter
- #105
March 19th is yet an other unfunded mandate
firefighterjed
SILVER Star
Thats a great goal…. I sincerely hope that funding doesn't get in the way of a good job that’s gonna be around for a long time. Can’t wait to see it done.
- Thread starter
- #107
The only funding issue I might have is the radiator. But if i can sell a butt stop, grip for my dad's shotgun and a holster for my 9mm. But if i can sell those there will be no funding issue.
- Thread starter
- #108
There is a light at the end of the tunnel. My biggest fear is that ut is a freight train barreling down on me.
Last night i got the "parking brake" installed to get the rear drive shaft installed. The parking brake needs to be replaced but for now it isn't on my time line and in my budget. It is on the list of things that need to be done just not at this minute.
The front drive shaft is installed also.
Yes I know there is a missing bolt for the drive shaft.
I was fighting the transmission and clutch to get the fulcrum in so I had to take the transmission back out to get the clutch fork out to put the fulcrum in. The clutch is now fully operational and crazy stiff now. I got the push rod in and the return spring hooked up.
The exhaust header is bolted to the exhaust pipe.
I also had a problem with the radiator filler neck and overflow tube when i was tearing everything apart. I took it to a radiator shop but neglected to take any pictures of it when it was done. Needles to say they replaced the neck and fixed a couple of damaged veins and a new fresh coat of paint. That is installed and hooked up.
Last night i got the "parking brake" installed to get the rear drive shaft installed. The parking brake needs to be replaced but for now it isn't on my time line and in my budget. It is on the list of things that need to be done just not at this minute.
The front drive shaft is installed also.
Yes I know there is a missing bolt for the drive shaft.
I was fighting the transmission and clutch to get the fulcrum in so I had to take the transmission back out to get the clutch fork out to put the fulcrum in. The clutch is now fully operational and crazy stiff now. I got the push rod in and the return spring hooked up.
The exhaust header is bolted to the exhaust pipe.
I also had a problem with the radiator filler neck and overflow tube when i was tearing everything apart. I took it to a radiator shop but neglected to take any pictures of it when it was done. Needles to say they replaced the neck and fixed a couple of damaged veins and a new fresh coat of paint. That is installed and hooked up.
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firefighterjed
SILVER Star
Keep after it!
- Thread starter
- #110
A lot of good progress was made last night. I was able to get the transmission hump cover in.
I found out that i had some rusty spots on the fuel tank and i was able to get those fixed. The tank primed and painted, and installed.
I took the battery into work and put it on the charger during my lunch so that it would have a nice full charge. That got put in as well.
I found out that i had some rusty spots on the fuel tank and i was able to get those fixed. The tank primed and painted, and installed.
I took the battery into work and put it on the charger during my lunch so that it would have a nice full charge. That got put in as well.
- Thread starter
- #111
So I had everything back together and I was topping off the fluids. I knew one of the hoses was leaking so my son was helping replace a hose clamp. Then I saw some leaking thinking that it was still leaking coolant, and did the sniff test. My worst fear fuel.
I had done some repairs on the tank but hadn't filled the tank yet. Luckily I still had some permatex tank repair left. So out comes the passenger seat and the tank again
On a positive note the previous tank repairs held up.
I had done some repairs on the tank but hadn't filled the tank yet. Luckily I still had some permatex tank repair left. So out comes the passenger seat and the tank again
On a positive note the previous tank repairs held up.
- Thread starter
- #112
so the leaks in the tank are fixed but now the line from the tank to the pre-filter is leaking right at the fitting. Eventually I would like to rebuild and upgrade that fuel line to a stainless line. Is there a way to do a band-aide fix until I can do a better more permeant repair. I am thinking that there is a crush sleeve in the old line that is the reason as to why it is not sealing. I have some rubber fuel line that i am going to try to use for now. @Living in the Past what say you
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
I had the fitting at the stock filter snap
I had the hose snap between fuel filter and fuel pump. Snapped right at the fuel filter. I used another just as hose for the repair. Had the fitting on one end. I used a heat gun and slowly heated the hose on the end I needed to install the fitting. Got the fitting off the old hose and got it on. Been holding for a few years. This cruiser is rural and used what I had on hand. Barbed fitting and fuel line hose would be the next step it if didn't work.
I had the hose snap between fuel filter and fuel pump. Snapped right at the fuel filter. I used another just as hose for the repair. Had the fitting on one end. I used a heat gun and slowly heated the hose on the end I needed to install the fitting. Got the fitting off the old hose and got it on. Been holding for a few years. This cruiser is rural and used what I had on hand. Barbed fitting and fuel line hose would be the next step it if didn't work.
- Thread starter
- #114
Sometimes looks are deceptive. For example it looks like I drove it out of the garage. I did get the engine running at the correct rpm. But it is making noise. Also I went to drive it out and the clutch wasn't engaging so a quick double check of everything and come to find out i made a rookie mistake and put the clutch in backwards.
So it went o my daughters car show on the hook or rather flat tow. I found out that if I had registered it as a contestant in the 4x4 category i would have won. Instead I entered her into the incomplete project category.
Where I took home third in a more competitive category.
Man, nice! I've put mine in two shows and come up empty... well done!
- Thread starter
- #116
This is the 3rd piece of hardware that I have gotten. My wife doesn't get it.
- Thread starter
- #117
Aftermarket parts purchases beware. When i thought i had my clutch installed wrong I knew that this last weekend would be a good time to work on it as the next few weekends are going to be getting really busy with kids stuff taking up most of my time for the month. I decided to pull the transmission AGAIN. I have realized something with Uma that if i do something once I typically have to do it at least twice.
So here is a profile picture of my original clutch friction disc that i pulled off initially. Notice the spring shelf and the spline shoulder on opposite sides.
Now time for the Autozone clutch friction disc. The spring shoulder and the spline yoke are on the same side. Thus not allowing the clutch to engage the flywheel.
So according to the embossed lettering on the friction disc I did install it correctly. However if the parts aren't built correctly in the first place even if you follow the directions to the "t" it will never work.
On a side note the Haynes manual says to use jack stands and a cross beam and a come along to remove the transmission. I would not recommend that unless you want the engine to fall on your head or worse fall out and damage the transmission and transfer case. I have found that the best way is to use a cherry picker through the door to lift and lower it. I have done it with no support except for Armstrong, with a helper lifting the transmission, the Haynes way and the cherry picker. Take my advice the cherry picker is the fastest safest and easiest wat to do it.
So here is a profile picture of my original clutch friction disc that i pulled off initially. Notice the spring shelf and the spline shoulder on opposite sides.
Now time for the Autozone clutch friction disc. The spring shoulder and the spline yoke are on the same side. Thus not allowing the clutch to engage the flywheel.
So according to the embossed lettering on the friction disc I did install it correctly. However if the parts aren't built correctly in the first place even if you follow the directions to the "t" it will never work.
On a side note the Haynes manual says to use jack stands and a cross beam and a come along to remove the transmission. I would not recommend that unless you want the engine to fall on your head or worse fall out and damage the transmission and transfer case. I have found that the best way is to use a cherry picker through the door to lift and lower it. I have done it with no support except for Armstrong, with a helper lifting the transmission, the Haynes way and the cherry picker. Take my advice the cherry picker is the fastest safest and easiest wat to do it.
- Thread starter
- #118
Well i went back to autozone and got the clutch replaced under warranty only to find out that they are all made that way. The manager was generous enough to refund my money. I promptly turned around and ordered an OEM one from Cruiser Corps. It should up shortly after and i couldn't be more elated by the OEM quality.
It came complete with pilot bearing, throw out bearing, friction disc, pressure plate, and alignment tool.
So out with the old pilot bearing. Originally I had tried the the bearing puller tool, the grease behind the pilot bearing and those didn't work. So I brought home a slide hammer. That did a good job of breaking the old worn out bearing but the race was still seized in the crank. After some careful planning and consulting the brain trust at large at work and social media I got a rotary file and an angle grinder and ever so carefully notched the race as to not hit the crank. That took quite a while since my grinder loves to use a lot of air pressure fast and my compressor likes to take it's time filling the 12 gallon storage tank.
Oh yeah a hammer and chisel helped. I got the crank surface cleaned and prepped to get the new pilot bearing in.
Next I had to maneuver my new pressure plate in because my header is in the way and the clutch plate went in. I aligned everything back in and tightened down the pressure plate, and the throw out bearing. The after market clutch assembly fought me the entire way installing it. The cruiser corps one no problems at all. (Time to do a happy dance)
All of this was done under the careful watchful eyes for my supervisor
It came complete with pilot bearing, throw out bearing, friction disc, pressure plate, and alignment tool.
So out with the old pilot bearing. Originally I had tried the the bearing puller tool, the grease behind the pilot bearing and those didn't work. So I brought home a slide hammer. That did a good job of breaking the old worn out bearing but the race was still seized in the crank. After some careful planning and consulting the brain trust at large at work and social media I got a rotary file and an angle grinder and ever so carefully notched the race as to not hit the crank. That took quite a while since my grinder loves to use a lot of air pressure fast and my compressor likes to take it's time filling the 12 gallon storage tank.
Oh yeah a hammer and chisel helped. I got the crank surface cleaned and prepped to get the new pilot bearing in.
Next I had to maneuver my new pressure plate in because my header is in the way and the clutch plate went in. I aligned everything back in and tightened down the pressure plate, and the throw out bearing. The after market clutch assembly fought me the entire way installing it. The cruiser corps one no problems at all. (Time to do a happy dance)
All of this was done under the careful watchful eyes for my supervisor
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- Thread starter
- #119
I got the clutch in and the transmission in and hooked back up again. I won't bore you with the pictures again. This last weekend I did set a goal for my self to get the interior back together. To me that was huge to my wife it was just more time away from me doing the things she wanted me to do.
I was worried that I might be having an oil distribution issue it sounded like a vacuum cleaner was running. I took off the oil filter lines and to my surprise there was no oil coming out. So off to the interwebs and social media I go. Some people said that I might have a head gasket issue that I have the gasket on wrong not allowing the oil passage. I took off the valve cover and I am getting some oil but not a lot of oil to the top end. I now start thinking that i have a problem getting the oil to through the oil pump. I get a brand new drain pan to catch my brand new oil that doesn't even have an hour on it and pull the pan. The oil pump seems to be connected ( might still pull the pump and give it a refresh while I have the pan off anyway). But I also got to thinking that when i had everything apart I did take off the oil pressure regulator and replaced the gasket on that. Now me being lazy and cheap I didn't want to take my header off because I didn't want to replace my oil pan gasket and my exhaust gasket as well. I worked on starting to get the oil regulator off from behind the header. Oh yeah did I mention that I have wrapped my header in fiber glass heat wrap. now comes the lazy part I didn't go get some long sleeves or gloves on to work behind the header. After some struggling I got the regulator out and to my surprise the oil output line had a gasket over it, thus causing one of my ID10T trouble codes that I have been having.
I have several issues and they all have the same diagnostic trouble code ID10T
I was worried that I might be having an oil distribution issue it sounded like a vacuum cleaner was running. I took off the oil filter lines and to my surprise there was no oil coming out. So off to the interwebs and social media I go. Some people said that I might have a head gasket issue that I have the gasket on wrong not allowing the oil passage. I took off the valve cover and I am getting some oil but not a lot of oil to the top end. I now start thinking that i have a problem getting the oil to through the oil pump. I get a brand new drain pan to catch my brand new oil that doesn't even have an hour on it and pull the pan. The oil pump seems to be connected ( might still pull the pump and give it a refresh while I have the pan off anyway). But I also got to thinking that when i had everything apart I did take off the oil pressure regulator and replaced the gasket on that. Now me being lazy and cheap I didn't want to take my header off because I didn't want to replace my oil pan gasket and my exhaust gasket as well. I worked on starting to get the oil regulator off from behind the header. Oh yeah did I mention that I have wrapped my header in fiber glass heat wrap. now comes the lazy part I didn't go get some long sleeves or gloves on to work behind the header. After some struggling I got the regulator out and to my surprise the oil output line had a gasket over it, thus causing one of my ID10T trouble codes that I have been having.
I have several issues and they all have the same diagnostic trouble code ID10T
Scott68FJ40
SILVER Star
Just came across your build thread and really enjoyed reading though it. I bought my 1968 when I lived in Tucson, moved to Chandler in 2009 and then back to the PNW in 2012. I am curious though, is the parts collector you referred to out in Marana with the initial TH?
