Builds Marjan - A Minimalist Build Thread (1 Viewer)

[120mm]

So, I bought Marjan, my 1996 Series 80 LC a year ago January, in order to learn as much as I can about Land Cruisers, and to replace the Series 76 I left in Afghanistan in 2012.

I didn't really have a "plan" beyond that, but I figured as I wrenched, off-roaded, broke stuff and learned, I'd develop an idea of a realistic plan for Marjan.

Since that time, I've learned a lot. I've put on over 12,000 miles driving across the US and using it as a DD. I've also shipped it to Germany, where I continue to DD it, and shockingly, have done a bunch of off roading with it. I've crossed water with it (with a petrol engine!!!!) and I've managed to get it off road at least once a week; many weeks, once a day.

Since last Sunday, when I went out with some serious off roaders, I realized that unless I got more intentional with my build plans, I'd end up destroying the rig.

Buddy Can You Spare a Slider?

So, I started looking for some armor for him, only to discover rock sliders are unobtainium and technically illegal in Germany. @LandCruiserPhil then comes to the rescue with his Rock Rails. Once I thought about the concept of rock rails, I suddenly realized how ideal they were to my situation, and how I needed to embrace the concept of them in the rest of my build. So, I sat down and put down my build goals into writing to keep track, and hopefully so that some Mudder can help guide my decision making and save me money and wasted effort in the process.

The basic concept is simple, light, inexpensive without being cheap and well thought-out for my needs. I want to have a streetable DD that will allow me to follow more radical builds off-road, solely through elegant build design and driving skill.

1. No lift, 285/75-16 tires - Done

2. Blue - Done

3. Rock rail instead of sliders - LCP- Land Cruiser Product testing - ordered

4. Skid plate -

Slee - Skidplates

80 Skid Plates For Toyota Land Cruiser

Redneck Enginuitive Belly Pan finished!!!

5. Stock or light weight bumper

6. Reposition exhaust for protection –

7. Corner markers on front bumper - Either a threaded rod, or a bicycle type flag cut down. I'm having trouble actually seeing the front corners of my bumper beyond my fenders.

8. Onboard mounted air compressor - Amazon.com: MasterFlow MF-1050 Air Compressor: Automotive

9. Driver/Passenger seat rebuild/replacement. Suspension seats?

10. Lockable console (current one is pretty trashed; need replacement anyway - Security Floor Console, Black

11. Rear locker -

Aussie Locker XD-21230 Toyota 8.875/9.5 r.g | Locking Differential | Aussie Locker By Torq Masters More of a "want to have" than a "have to have" at this time.

How It Works - LOKKA

Repairs needed:

1. Fix/reposition front license plate - keep losing it in mud/water

2. Rust-through in one quarter panel

3. Seal holes in floor - Various holes in floor and rear quarter panels allow dust and moisture to intrude into body and interior parts, encouraging corrosion and making the interior unpleasant and dirty.

4. Marker Lights - The rig was hit in the front and not repaired correctly; need to reshape/repair marker lights so they will fit tightly and securely in their openings.

5. Driver’s rear tie down loop bolt replaced - One of my bolts snapped off upon removal; Needs repaired/replaced.

Thanks for any suggestions/leads/assistance.

 

[ewillis]

#11 Consider a Lokka...same as a Aussie, but built in AUS and less expensive. TOY-RO-446 Rear30 Spline Open In Stock Now$239.00

 

[120mm]

#11 Consider a Lokka...same as a Aussie, but built in AUS and less expensive. TOY-RO-446 Rear30 Spline Open In Stock Now$239.00

I've added that to my list. The great thing is, for $10 additional, I can have it delivered in a week to my German address instead of waiting months to make it through the Army Postal system.

 

[120mm]

So, my choice of rock rails has led to several folks contacting me off line about them. Everyone who has done so has had valid points, which makes me realize I need to justify/explain my choice.

1. Running boards and rock sliders are technically illegal where I live. Though lots of folks skirt the law, and I probably could too, the availability of rock rails provides me a lower profile option.

2. The style of off roading I do/available to me makes "sliding" rare/avoidable. The big rock threat here is from hidden rock spires in tall grass and tank ruts. Often, the choice is either crossing a tank rut, many of which have resulted from tanks using the same trail since 1938 and are quite substantial, or making a significant detour to get where I want to go. Provided I do my job driving and hit the rut at 90 degrees, the rock rail should be adequate. Either way, the additional clearance the rock rail provides is definitely a plus.

3. Shipping sliders to a country where they are illegal is dicey at best. The best quote so far is $2000, shipped, for an el cheapo $500 set of sliders. Most will not ship at all.

4. I have a curious, scientific mind. I'm interesting in testing the concept, and will be certain to report back the results as I discover them. I think the rock rails might have a place in off roading and am willing to test them.

 

[120mm]

I added a #12 - Tire Step.

Tire Step For Pick up Truck/SUV Tires

For those of you who have broken a fan shroud, a radiator nipple, or parts of your body while trying to work while standing on the bumper, you'll get why this is a critical piece of kit.

 

[120mm]

My lovely bride has two requirements when I purchased this car. It would be blue, and she would have a warm bottom while riding in it.

So, yesterday I fixed the "warm bottom" bit of the equation.

El Cheapo Heated Seats

 

[JaketheSSnake]

I like the tire step, I'm definitely going to grab one of those.

 

[120mm]

I like the tire step, I'm definitely going to grab one of those.

I like the idea of the chain option. I never know if the rigid ones are going to fit my tires or not. Plus, it doesn't take up much space, as it's, well, "chain".

 

[120mm]

I was under the vehicle this morning, trying to figure out what to do about relocating the exhaust and getting some underbody armor put on there and discovered this:

Proof I need better protection under there. There isn't any additional noise that I can tell, but am hoping I can fix it with a BFH.

Also noticed that there are threaded holes for a tranny skid plate. Am debating whether to go with the heavy one piece or lighter two piece protection in this area. @CreeperSleeper do you still offer these, and will you ship them USPS to APO?

 

[CreeperSleeper]

Hey @120mm, I haven't made the bellypans for years. It just became too much work as a side project. Good luck!

 

[120mm]

I picked up some steel to patch my lone rust spot in the Land Cruiser section of the post reclamation center.

I'm not sure of what the sign originally said, but it looks ominous as hell. It's pretty heavy gauge steel, and I'm debating if I should just roll it over a wooden dowel with a metal working hammer and use it as body cladding above the rock rails.

 

[120mm]

I finally dealt with my rust through.

Cut away the rust, back to clean metal

Built a pattern from card stock

Cut out the proper shape and size patch from a GI wall locker we found in an abandoned POW shack. I found this whimsical and kind of cool.

Did some crappy MIG welding

Primed it and painted both rocker panels with bed liner. My first time working with the stuff and really like how it turns out. Needs very close attention, though, to keep runs under control.

 

[120mm]

I kept looking at my sloppy welds, and I realized that there was probably some porosity, there. I did some research, and realized that many folks use a seam sealer, post weld. I had nothing at hand that I thought would work, and then I noticed my 1/2 used tube of FIPG. 5 minutes later, I had slathered my crappy welds with FIPG. I will let it set up and see how well it holds up. next, I need to drill a drain hole, and put a new drain in. Older aircraft have a directional drain that allows holes to drain water, while prevented FOD from entering, and I think I will have an A&P friend ship me one of those to try out.

Meanwhile, I got my tire step in the mail last week. Works like a friggin' charm on the middle setting for 285 75/16 GGAT2s.

I also found the source of my wet quarter panel, that caused the rust through in the first place.

A quick slather of silicone grease and I was able to tease it back over the flange with a dental pick.

 

[DSRTRDR]

you need to get in contact with the Buschtaxi people - they know how to build an 80 in Germany

 

[120mm]

you need to get in contact with the Buschtaxi people - they know how to build an 80 in Germany

Yeah, I have plans on attending their next Buschtaxi rodeo. Provided work and my daughter's wedding doesn't get in the way.

 

[120mm]

Well, this finally came in the (APO) mail. APO is very sketchy. One order will take 4 days to get here and another will take (literally) months.

Thanks, @LandCruiserPhil ! It arrived in great condition, and was packed ingeniously well. And had a baggie of tootsie rolls in it with a Thank You! written on it. My personal secret is that Tootsie Rolls are my crack. They were gone in a microsecond.

 

[120mm]

Well, took about an hour and painted them and put them on.

They really look stealth; now to drive in order to never need them.

 

[Schmutz]

They really look stealth; now to drive in order to never need them.

very cunning! Looking forward to your field-test write-up