Manual instructions wheel bearing preload (1 Viewer)

[whaler]

Ive always just kind of gone with 35ftlbs on the preload, back it off, turn hub and snug the nut to 35ftlbs again. The lock nut Ive done 47 ftlbs.

Took pictures of my '97 manual instructions. To be honest Im a little surprised it says 43 ftlb for preload set but then it says 48 INlb for final setting on adjusting nut. So that essentially sets the final torque on that nut much lower than 43ftlb, right?

FWIW i have 35s and have always done 30-35ftlb on the adjusting nut with no issues.

 

[BILT4ME]

Yes, that is correct.

Many here have followed the manual to the letter, only to have the bearings loose in 1000 miles or less. Folks follow what are accepted versions that range from 25 to 35 LB-Ft for the adjusting nut and 47 LB-FT for the locking nut.

@Tools R Us is the one with the most experience with this.

I set mine following a GM spec because the Toyota FSM did not work.

I am now at 35 LB-Ft on the adjuster nut and am using the TrailGear nuts because my OEM nuts kept coming loose.

Keep doing what you're doing.....you'll be fine.

 

[ZackR]

You are doing it correctly, in this case the manual's version isn't best practice.

 

[paulzak]

I must admit to being frustrated with the FSM on this one. Whenever I try the procedure as listed, I get loose wheel bearings in short order. Perhaps I'm tempting fate, but I just go back and tighten when necessary to take out the slop. I'm not sure what else to do.

 

[BILT4ME]

I must admit to being frustrated with the FSM on this one. Whenever I try the procedure as listed, I get loose wheel bearings in short order. Perhaps I'm tempting fate, but I just go back and tighten when necessary to take out the slop. I'm not sure what else to do.

torque to 30 lb-ft, then locknut at 45 lb-ft, close it up and drive it.

 

[sunrk]

The most important step is not so much the 43 ft-lb torque, but the fish-scale pre-load measurement. It's what determines, IMHO as a shadetree mechanic, if every other aspect of the wheel bearing setup has been done right.

When I do front bearings, I tighten to 43 ft-lb, turn a few times both ways, loosen the nut until hand-tight, turn a few times again, the re-torque to 43 lt-lb. Providing the fish-scale pre-load measurement at that point is within the 2.9 to 5.7 kgf (and fish scales are not precision devices remember), I'm happy.

if I am not using locktup4x4/trailgear hub nuts, the pre-load has to be checked again after installing locktab and locknut.

 

[baldilocks]

14 months, over 10k mikes and a lot of wheeling ago, as a test, I set my left front to 20lbft and the right to 25lbft using the trail gear nuts. Both are still good to go.

 

[shocktower]

I do not use the FSM on this, I got 28# on the adjusting nut, and then 58# on lock nut, and I use both new lock washers, I want to try the trail gear one's but just have not, I run 35's

 

[IronCladLou]

The most important step is not so much the 43 ft-lb torque, but the fish-scale pre-load measurement. It's what determines, IMHO as a shadetree mechanic, if every other aspect of the wheel bearing setup has been done right.

When I do front bearings, I tighten to 43 ft-lb, turn a few times both ways, loosen the nut until hand-tight, turn a few times again, the re-torque to 43 lt-lb. Providing the fish-scale pre-load measurement at that point is within the 2.9 to 5.7 kgf (and fish scales are not precision devices remember), I'm happy.

^^^This. I have been doing front hubs on Toyotas since the 1980s and have always used the spring scale and the factory torques listed. I would say typically I need more than 48 in-lbs to get the right force on the spring scale. But I go by the scale - not the torque. I have never had anything loosen up.

 

[BILT4ME]

^^^This. I have been doing front hubs on Toyotas since the 1980s and have always used the spring scale and the factory torques listed. I would say typically I need more than 48 in-lbs to get the right force on the spring scale. But I go by the scale - not the torque. I have never had anything loosen up.

When I did mine the first time, I did the torque and fish-scale thing. I discovered that it didn't matter much to the fish scale as I went WAY up in torque value. What DID matter was the type of grease. The green plain run-of-the-mill wheel bearing grease had the fish scale went up quickly as toque went up. However, the Lucas Red - N - Tacky 2, the fish scale took a LONG time to respond to the increase in torque to the point I thought something was wrong.

In hindsight, the Lucas is a better type of grease and holds together better (higher drop point) and did better under higher load pressures. I now run 30 to 35 lb-ft torque on the nuts and they are just fine on temps and staying tight.
(All in my non-pro opinion, of course.)

 

[JohnnyFish]

There's a funny contrast between all of the suggested torque specs above and the way @OTRAMM does it by feel.

 

[OffRoadScott]

This is something I need to be up to date on as I am planning on doing the knuckle rebuild soon.

 

[Tedward]

Find and read Tools R Us posts/threads on the topic.
He and others that have long term, real world experience with these wagons and worked out what is best.
Reading Tools writings he left for us is will learn ya lots o stuff.
@OffRoadScott

 

[OffRoadScott]

Find and read Tools R Us posts/threads on the topic.
He and others that have long term, real world experience with these wagons and worked out what is best.
Reading Tools writings he left for us is will learn ya lots o stuff.
@OffRoadScott

Thank you and will do it. I had the pleasure of meeting him a couple of times.

 

[Fairgame]

Funny I have always done this by touch. If you can just turn the hub with one hand then good to go.

 

[OffRoadScott]

Funny I have always done this by touch. If you can just turn the hub with one hand then good to go.

I have tightened it down to where it is hard to move to seat the bearings, then backed off then snugged the nut again, and then tightened the locking nut.

 

[sogafarm]

I just went through this on mine. I saw the 48 in/lb and thought it was a misprint. It translates to 4 ft/lbs of force of which my torque wrench doesn't read. I did it the ottram method on one hub and tightened the other to 43 lbs. I'm going to go back in the other one and do the ottram method(hand tight after torquing then going another 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Before I did the rebuild, the spindle nuts where very loose and chewed up. I replaced with new oem nuts and washers.

 

[JohnnyFish]

I just went through this on mine. I saw the 48 in/lb and thought it was a misprint. It translates to 4 ft/lbs of force of which my torque wrench doesn't read. I did it the ottram method on one hub and tightened the other to 43 lbs. I'm going to go back in the other one and do the ottram method(hand tight after torquing then going another 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Before I did the rebuild, the spindle nuts where very loose and chewed up. I replaced with new oem nuts and washers.

Mine were loose and chewed up as well. I assume they were chewed up because a PO or mechanic didn’t have the 54mm/ 2 1/8” socket and used a flat blade and hammer to loosen and tighten them.

 

[bicycleagent003]

@ Tools R Us wrote on this topic:
"I just torque the inner nut to ~30ft/lb, then the outer to 47ft/lb, bend the tabs, done." when I put this topic up 5 years ago. His response is first in this thread:

Fixing Front Wheel Bearing Preload

Hey Team, I did my front birf's a couple weeks back, and put the truck on stands this weekend to check for play in the front wheel bearings. With both front wheels still on, and using their weight to try and rock the front hubs on the spindle (not being crazy forceful, but trying to get some...

forum.ih8mud.com

I suggest doing it the way Tools suggested, and then getting each wheel off the ground a couple hundred miles later and seeing if you having any play by firmly pulling on the wheel. If no play, keep running it. If play, adjust as needed. I recall that play at 12 and 6, versus play at 9 and 3, indicate trunion vs. wheel bearing, but I can't recall which is which right now.

 

[nigelsiam]

If you found your wheel bearings to be loose would you just go through the process of retightening them or would you repack the bearings as well?