Maintenance you wished you would’ve done?

[Gr8Daneger]

I’m checking in after I roll over 20k and wanted to see if there was any maintenance outside of what is listed in the FSM that y’all with a few more miles wished you would’ve done.

For instance I’ve been doing oil changes every 5K, and actually switched to PUP 5w30 at 20k.

I’m also considering changing my diffs and TC at 30K as well.

Do y’all have any other recommendations?

 

[ryanCA]

277k

wish I upgraded shocks and headlights sooner.

 

[Madtiger]

Just my opinion......I follow Toyota recommendations. Nothing more, nothing less. And that means 10k mile oil changes and 5k mile tire rotations. And whatever else is in the owner's manual. If my LC breaks down bc of following Toyota rec's, then shame on Toyota...will be buying different brand.

 

[Sandroad]

I’m checking in after I roll over 20k and wanted to see if there was any maintenance outside of what is listed in the FSM that y’all with a few more miles wished you would’ve done.

For instance I’ve been doing oil changes every 5K, and actually switched to PUP 5w30 at 20k.

I’m also considering changing my diffs and TC at 30K as well.

Do y’all have any other recommendations?

It depends on your uses. I recommend following the severe service maintenance if your uses meet those criteria. Towing? Dusty off road? Etc. The only thing I would have done differently so far is to not allow the dealer to do the maintenance. I was suckered into that by the so called free 2 years of maintenance offered by Toyota. Every service I had there was a hassle, with sloppy work, incomplete work, expensive add-ons, and a broken HVAC blend door.

 

[tacoduck]

I wish I spent the coin on paint correction and ceramic coating. The lx570 I just bought appears to have had ceramic coating in the past. I ran it through the car was yesterday and the blowers blew every drop off water off the vehicle. It is black, 7 years old, and with 70k miles looks brand new. Really surprised with how clean it stays.

 

[Madtiger]

I have ceramic coating on mine. It’s OK. I got a great deal…so i went for it. Not sure if it is worth the hassle. Can’t go to any car wash with brush etc, annual maintenance, etc.

 

[AnyMal]

I’m checking in after I roll over 20k and wanted to see if there was any maintenance outside of what is listed in the FSM that y’all with a few more miles wished you would’ve done.

For instance I’ve been doing oil changes every 5K, and actually switched to PUP 5w30 at 20k.

I’m also considering changing my diffs and TC at 30K as well.

Do y’all have any other recommendations?

Nothing thats perf for 20k break in on 0W20.

I would do all diffs, t case and trans at 30k if you don't care about value maxing. + susp fluid if LX. Transmission just because it didnt get a break in drain. Otherwise double the interval.

 

[Heritage 2020]

@Gr8Daneger

If you are willing to spend a few dollars—highly recommend professional ceramic and PPF.

I have ceramic coating and PPF which is game changing for me as my HE is a daily driver and I don’t wash/wax it as often as I could.

As you know, blizzard white (and some other lighter colors such as silver) inherently hide dirt/scratches more readily—but at 61k miles and lots of adventures the exterior of my pig still looks brand new/pristine.

If you have a black truck—definitely consider one or both.

Also, I agree with the above regarding following severe service—5k mile OCIs. I use 0w/20 PUP, but honestly the oil debate horse died long ago.

Brake fluid was done at 20k and again at 50k. My diffs/transfer were done at 40k, and power steering and transmission at 60k.

Hope this helps!

 

[2021 LC200]

I’m checking in after I roll over 20k and wanted to see if there was any maintenance outside of what is listed in the FSM that y’all with a few more miles wished you would’ve done.

For instance I’ve been doing oil changes every 5K, and actually switched to PUP 5w30 at 20k.

I’m also considering changing my diffs and TC at 30K as well.

Do y’all have any other recommendations?

My 2021 LC200 has currently 33k miles.

Maintenance done to date and happy with the same:
- Oil changes every 5k miles with 0W20, switching to 5w30 at 35k
- Lubricated drive shafts (6 zerks) with lucas HD grease at 31k miles (this seemed overdue as from factory there appears to be limited amount of grease)
- Changed diffs and TC at 32k with Ravenol fluid change package for the 200 series (magnets on diff plugs looked good with some black sludge but no sizeable metal particles otherwise, hoping at 100k to find less)

Front Diff drain and fill plugs & Rear Diff drain plug (all fine black powder, magnet makes it look different)

- Cleaned the engine air filter at a car wash with compressed air the other day. I hardly do off roading for now so was not very dirty. Have a new one at hand. May do at 35k miles oil change.
- At 50k miles plan to drain and fill the auto box. Not decided on whether I will drop the pan and replace the filter. May do on the first change to get the run in debris/shavings out

https://www.blauparts.com/toyota-land-cruiser-transfer-case-differential-fluid-change-kit.html?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw5750OezhQMVhyfUAR28Ogp2EAYYASABEgIj1fD_BwE

Also added this Liqui Moly MoS2 Antifriction for Gears to the diffs (not the transfer case!)

MoS2 Antifriction for Gears

Stabilized solid lubricant concentrate suspended in mineral oil. Thanks to its high MoS2 content and special additives, it is suitable for all manual motor vehicle transmissions and differentials without limited slip function.

www.liqui-moly.com

 

[LX Cruiser]

Just my opinion......I follow Toyota recommendations. Nothing more, nothing less. And that means 10k mile oil changes and 5k mile tire rotations. And whatever else is in the owner's manual. If my LC breaks down bc of following Toyota rec's, then shame on Toyota...will be buying different brand.

I’m curious if the LC manual is like the Tundra manual.

Tundra manual says 10k OCI unless you fit the severe use definition; then they say do 5k OCI 30k diffs, etc.

Well, severe use includes towing, hauling heavy loads, or even just driving on dirt roads. There are a few other criteria I don’t remember, but my impression was that unless you just commute unloaded in good weather, you fit the case for accelerated maintenance according to Toyota, including 5k OCI.

 

[Madtiger]

I’m curious if the LC manual is like the Tundra manual.

Tundra manual says 10k OCI unless you fit the severe use definition; then they say do 5k OCI 30k diffs, etc.

Well, severe use includes towing, hauling heavy loads, or even just driving on dirt roads. There are a few other criteria I don’t remember, but my impression was that unless you just commute unloaded in good weather, you fit the case for accelerated maintenance according to Toyota, including 5k OCI.

I don't off-road much to qualify for that. No towing with LC.

 

[ga12r1]

I wish I would have got sliders with a kickout. Looking at the rear quarters of the truck now I think I could call that missed "preventative" maintenance

 

[bloc]

The only maintenance I’d add is using a fluid transfer pump to suck the PS fluid out of the reservoir and refill, every oil change.

The PS fluid doesn’t have a change interval in the manual, but removing and replacing about a third of it regularly keeps the stuff that is in there nice and fresh. And done this way it’s very low risk, as far as odds of messing it up and leading to damage.

I’m curious if the LC manual is like the Tundra manual.

Tundra manual says 10k OCI unless you fit the severe use definition; then they say do 5k OCI 30k diffs, etc.

Well, severe use includes towing, hauling heavy loads, or even just driving on dirt roads. There are a few other criteria I don’t remember, but my impression was that unless you just commute unloaded in good weather, you fit the case for accelerated maintenance according to Toyota, including 5k OCI.

Carcarenut had a good video about why Toyota owners shouldn’t push to the limits of the published OCI. He showed a Camry engine with stuck piston rings and resultant damage to the cylinders.

 

[ga12r1]

The only maintenance I’d add is using a fluid transfer pump to suck the PS fluid out of the reservoir and refill, every oil change.

The PS fluid doesn’t have a change interval in the manual, but removing and replacing about a third of it regularly keeps the stuff that is in there nice and fresh. And done this way it’s very low risk, as far as odds of messing it up and leading to damage.

This is really good advice. I’ll also say that if you do a lot of heavy wheeling it’s not a bad idea to add an in-line power steering filter. If and when you have a catastrophic vane pump or rack failure that filter will save you from a huge headache. Ask me how I know ….

 

[bloc]

This is really good advice. I’ll also say that if you do a lot of heavy wheeling it’s not a bad idea to add an in-line power steering filter. If and when you have a catastrophic vane pump or rack failure that filter will save you from a huge headache. Ask me how I know ….

I assume on the return side?

 

[ga12r1]

I assume on the return side?

Yeah.
After blowing out a rack and seizing a vane pump at Windrock I went through a few vane pumps and two racks even after flushing about 10 gallons of fluid through the system during the whole operation. It was a real headache trying to figure out the issue. In the end I realized contaminates were causing the valve in the vane pump to hang.
One I put if the filter I had no more issues. The other option was to replace all hard lines and cooler
I was much happier with the $15 filter

 

[ga12r1]

I assume on the return side?

Yeah.
I went through a few vane pumps and two racks even after flushing about 10 gallons of fluid through the system during the whole operation. It was a real headache trying to figure out the issue. In the end I realized contaminates were causing the valve in the vane pump to hang.
One I put if the filter I had no more issues. The other option was to replace all hard lines and cooler
I was much happier with the $15 filter

Fun times in the parking lot:

Looks like there was a little bit of pressure behind this blowout

 

[4gotalot]

What in line filter did you use?
Would you install that same filter again or have you found a better option now with your experience with the system?

 

[gasman4u]

I’m checking in after I roll over 20k and wanted to see if there was any maintenance outside of what is listed in the FSM that y’all with a few more miles wished you would’ve done.

For instance I’ve been doing oil changes every 5K, and actually switched to PUP 5w30 at 20k.

I’m also considering changing my diffs and TC at 30K as well.

Do y’all have any other recommendations?

+1 on changing both diff's and tcase at 30k (or before for diff's - your call). PUP is solid, readily available oil. I am NOT concerned with 10k OCI, as the oil/filter combo I use are supposed to go much longer than 10k. But to each his own! You cannot go wrong with a 5k OCI imho irrespective of whatever quality oil filter you use, but I am assuming Toyota OEM.

I used the magic 75W toyota fluid and will be using my last two cans in a couple months at 60k, then who knows? It is definitely spendy and others who have changed are not seeing their Tcase grenade so far.

As @bloc mentioned, the PSF is often neglected. I drain and fill mine every oil change and you can appreciate a slight difference in color in old vs new. If you're a disciple of CCN, he says the idemitsu PSF is what Toyota uses from the factory. It looks the same to me, but I am not planning on sending off samples to confirm. It's also cheaper than most trans fluids IIRC. Again, to each their own!

I also drained and filled my coolant at 50k. Yes, I know - it's early. Gave me the warm and fuzzies just like doing a complete fluid swap on my tranny without dropping the pan or changing the filter. I plan on keeping this truck for a LONG time and maintain it as such. I skipped the engine drain bolts (gasp - clutches pearls), and simply drained and filled the radiator a 3-4 times (iirc) at the petcock after letting the new stuff cycle with engine at temp (open thermostat). I figured this was a cleaner option for me as I have seen first hand what dogs look like after getting into coolant. Please keep your animals away when doing this - just in case.

Air filters to me are an easy win. I use Toyota OEM for cabin/engine and they get replaced annually with the cabin filter going every 6 months. Annual cleaning of the MAF can help get you an extra 0.0000001 mpg too! A penny earned, aM i RiGhT?!?

Brake fluid every 2 years for me - again, likely early as most do it every 3 years irrespective of mileage. Brake fluid effectively has a shelf life determined by time (for most) and not mileage. We aren't going for lap times in these BUFF's.

You're off to a great start and this forum has taught me a TON! Keep your nose to the screen and search for issues/questions/solutions/experience others have had and posted. Mud is a GREAT resource.

EDIT: My (so far) pavement princess is wrapped on the front with XPEL PPF and I did Gtechniq ceramic coating with a couple of their products both when new and just reapplied their EXO. Anyways, it's spendy but if you're going to DIY they make good stuff.

 

[ga12r1]

What in line filter did you use?
Would you install that same filter again or have you found a better option now with your experience with the system?

I just used a universal power steering filter from Napa. On the return side before the reservoir.
I would definitely do it again. About a 10 minute install. I won’t run another Cruiser without one.
It’s just for catching contaminates and metal shavings in case of vane pump/rack failures. Probably not necessary for most guys but I still figure it’s cheap insurance.
A great time to install one is when replacing the fluid