I know I am taking a chance on getting ridiculed but I am hoping I can get some guidance. Just purchased a '23 GX460 with 24K miles. My question is regarding the gear oil and transfer case oil. I have decided to use 5W-30 in the engine. I know what the manual says for the gear and transfer case oil but what do you use? I want to protect my "investment" and don't care about fuel economy (if I did, I sure would not have purchased a V8). It seems some use 75W-90 for all three boxes. Some use Red Line for the transfer case. Anyways, I'd like your opinion. Oh, I did get that small filter to replace the foam one on the secondary air box. Any advice, I'm all eyes and ears.
Maintenance Question (12 Viewers)
- Thread starter Gebomartin
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Likely to hear full spectrum of recommendations
I wouldn't think the 5W-30 would cause any issues.. IIRC...others have previously posted an option in other markets.
I do 0W-20 Amsoil on mine. I also use Amsoil gear oil for the front and rear diff..but the OEM 75W unicorn piss in the center diff.
I haven't used it myself but Revenol has a straight 75W for far cheaper than OEM
www.ravenolamerica.com
I wouldn't think the 5W-30 would cause any issues.. IIRC...others have previously posted an option in other markets.
I do 0W-20 Amsoil on mine. I also use Amsoil gear oil for the front and rear diff..but the OEM 75W unicorn piss in the center diff.
I haven't used it myself but Revenol has a straight 75W for far cheaper than OEM
75W Gear Oil - RAVENOL MTF-3
RAVENOL MTF-3 is a fully synthetic 75W gear oil for drive axles & transmissions. Suitable replacement for Toyota / Lexus 08885-81080, VW G052512A2, & many more.
i used the ravenol 75 as posted. no issues 30k miles, not that one should expect any
I use Ravenol in all 3 boxes. I get the kit with all the oil from Blau Parts.
Highly doubt that you will get ridiculed for asking, and good on you for doing the maintenance that many overlook.
Highly doubt that you will get ridiculed for asking, and good on you for doing the maintenance that many overlook.
- Thread starter
- #6
What weights are you using ?
Hiluxforever
SILVER Star
I have the dealer do it, and use that as an opportunity to get a second set of eyes on my chassis.
I use recommended weight. If it was a steel block I would probably run 10w30
I use recommended weight. If it was a steel block I would probably run 10w30
- Thread starter
- #8
what about the gear boxes?
The diffs and T-cases in these rigs most definitely do not need any kind of special or expensive fluid. IMO, what's more important is the frequency of the fluid change rather than the type of fluid. After all, the diffs don't have any kind of a filter in them, just a magnet for metal parts.
My TC gets Mobil Delvac 75w90. It is a great synthetic gear oil. It's commonly used in HD trucks and it lacks a limited slip additive (and is one of the only synthetic gear oils that doesn't include it). Oh - it's cheap too. It runs very quiet in the transfer case, including in the cold.
www.summitracing.com
The diffs on these rigs are even less picky. Prior to upgrading diffs on my GX, I was running cheap Valvoline conventional 80w90 in the front and rear, but changing it yearly (as I do lots of creek crossings and submerge the diffs - and there would be evidence of some water in the diffs at each yearly change).
In June I removed both differentials in order to swap them out with upgraded diffs from ECGS. Here is the OEM 3rd member with 190K on it (with 55K of those miles being mine). Perfect condition in every way, with even the OEM paint markings still being visible. The rig was used hard over my 55K, including lots of wheeling and towing.
My TC gets Mobil Delvac 75w90. It is a great synthetic gear oil. It's commonly used in HD trucks and it lacks a limited slip additive (and is one of the only synthetic gear oils that doesn't include it). Oh - it's cheap too. It runs very quiet in the transfer case, including in the cold.
Mobil 122044 Mobil Delvac 1 Synthetic Gear Oil | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Mobil Delvac 1 Synthetic Gear Oil with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Gear Oil at Summit Racing.
The diffs on these rigs are even less picky. Prior to upgrading diffs on my GX, I was running cheap Valvoline conventional 80w90 in the front and rear, but changing it yearly (as I do lots of creek crossings and submerge the diffs - and there would be evidence of some water in the diffs at each yearly change).
In June I removed both differentials in order to swap them out with upgraded diffs from ECGS. Here is the OEM 3rd member with 190K on it (with 55K of those miles being mine). Perfect condition in every way, with even the OEM paint markings still being visible. The rig was used hard over my 55K, including lots of wheeling and towing.
Not sure offhand which diff fluids match at similar levels the stock additive package for 75W used in TC.
Here is a Blackstone report on the stock 75W TC fluid
Here is one for the 75W Ravenol
Here is a Blackstone report on the stock 75W TC fluid
Here is one for the 75W Ravenol
For engine oil, I use the factory 0W-20. I use synthetic and it's typically Costco. On the initial change of the diffs and TC, I used the Toyota stuff. On the last change I used Valvoline 75W-90 synthetic for all three. Didn't notice a difference except for it costing half as much. For the radiator and transmission I use Toyota stuff.
Vavoline MaxLife is a great ATF that is about half the cost of Toyota WS. And it's a full synthetic fluid, which WS is not. But, I'd only use MaxLife if you are doing a full exchange where you are completely replacing all of the fluid. Otherwise, just use WS to prevent the two fluids from mixing.
The only Toyota-branded fluids I use are:
1) Pink SLL coolant. It's basically the same price as aftermarket fluids and matches the fill that was in my GX when I got it, and the factory battery and engine coolant in our Highlander. Being that it's very hard to get all the coolant out at home when DIYing a coolant exchange, I just use the same Toyota stuff to avoid the potential for two different coolant formulations to mix.
2. Toyota Pink FIPG seal packing. This stuff is super expensive (like 3-4X the price of Permatex) but is awesome. It sets up in <1 hour as opposed to normal FIPG which usually requires 24+ hours.
I've heard some differing options on WS versus Maxlife
I seen more than a few state WS is likely a Group III and that Maxlife is a Group IV but built on a Group III base oil so kind of a mix
I seen more than a few state WS is likely a Group III and that Maxlife is a Group IV but built on a Group III base oil so kind of a mix
r2m
Richard
I'm thinking about all the Toyota/Lexus products that go a quarter million/half million miles plus on factory fluids.
So why not just stay with factory fluids?
When my wife and got rid of our 100 series Landcruisers (she had one and I had mine), she had over 280k miles, mine had over 260k miles.
Both ran strong enough to still travel across the U.S. with not an issue.
We got rid of them because the interior was worn, torn, and pretty ugly, same for the paint. The clear coat was all peeled off and the paint was in bad shape. But mechanically they were fine!
So the moral to the story is, how long do you plan on keeping your rig?
Do you really plan on keeping it over a quarter million miles, even when the paint and interior gets ugly? If not, don't worry about your fluids. Just stay with the factory specs and don't over think it. When you start getting into uber high mileage, I'm can almost guarantee you it won't be your diff's that will be making you want to trade it in.
So why not just stay with factory fluids?
When my wife and got rid of our 100 series Landcruisers (she had one and I had mine), she had over 280k miles, mine had over 260k miles.
Both ran strong enough to still travel across the U.S. with not an issue.
We got rid of them because the interior was worn, torn, and pretty ugly, same for the paint. The clear coat was all peeled off and the paint was in bad shape. But mechanically they were fine!
So the moral to the story is, how long do you plan on keeping your rig?
Do you really plan on keeping it over a quarter million miles, even when the paint and interior gets ugly? If not, don't worry about your fluids. Just stay with the factory specs and don't over think it. When you start getting into uber high mileage, I'm can almost guarantee you it won't be your diff's that will be making you want to trade it in.
