Maintenace after submersion in water and mud (1 Viewer)

[WideAngleWandering]

My HJ60 spent about 6 hours nose-deep in water and mud in the hills outside of Portland, Oregon this weekend.

Because of the angle, the LH side was more submerged than the RH side. It was deep enough to mostly submerge the fan, alternator, starter, etc. Tailpipe was underwater.

Truck was idling throughout the extraction. My winch failed* so I had to pull it out by hand with the hi-lift (I am feeling that today). I don't know why the winch failed yet but that's for another thread.

I did eventually make it back to my friend's house, and am figuring out what I need to do today to get her roadworthy. I have about 3 hours of highway driving ahead of me to get home. I'd rather change the fluids first.

I imagine I should at least drain and refill the diffs and lube the chassis/suspension. What about the transfer case & transmission? Engine oil? Wheel bearings?

 

[WideAngleWandering]

It looks like the diff vents were probably under water, so that's definitely on the list. Starter solenoid is sticking so that needs to be removed and cleaned. I've got all the carpet out. Fun stuff.

 

[cicak]

Pics

 

[WideAngleWandering]

I just took the one pic, it's in the first post.

So far, the damage is:
* very wet carpet
* wet/muddy starter solenoid
* water in the front diff (how high can I make that breather? Mine only goes up to the frame.)
* lost hydraulic pressure in the clutch. feels like air in the lines. I have to pump the clutch to change gears

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

I just took the one pic, it's in the first post.

So far, the damage is:
* very wet carpet
* wet/muddy starter solenoid
* water in the front diff (how high can I make that breather? Mine only goes up to the frame.)
* lost hydraulic pressure in the clutch. feels like air in the lines. I have to pump the clutch to change gears

Well, the carpet is what it is. You can take it all out with removing the seats.

That can be cleaned or changed for relatively cheap.

You can take the breather into the engine compartment or even higher.

The clutch is weird. It is closed system, as long as the master is full. Maybe the angle let the master go low and you now have air in the system? Bleed it and see.
If the pressure plate and friction disc are muddy, it should wear off and not cause permanent damage. This should be unrelated to you having to pump it.
cheers,
j

 

[sved]

Check the relay's and cable connections in the left footwell (behind the plastic) for moisture or water damage.Will save you some headache in the future.

And drain water from under the footwell and bottomplate.There is a big plastic stop under the carpet (body to chassis boltup is right there).Take out the little plastic stop on the underside of it,and drain from there and let it dry properly and treat with anticorrosion.

This is a easily missed spot.

 

[hj 60]

Lol, we allways try to get stuck but when it happens we hate it

This is the plug in the passenger footpanel, must be dry:

And that spot has some rubber plugs on the outside behind the mudflap to drain. I would toss atf inthere ? (see other topic for pictures, somewhere)
Also both sides have drainplugs to directly drian to the outside (my hj was leaking rainwater from the rear arches to my feet...)

When I was welding I noticed that the hj is full of rubber caps under the truck. Maybe you can use a spray washer to get the sand out, also for the chassis.
creepy, chavez face on my hj,

Yes you got water in there, but the drain is very small, just watch it rust away...

The connections in the engine bay problably need some wd40,
the stuff behind panels must be cleaned/dried.
birfs,diffs, Water should just drain out, maybe a repack is best to do.

Mine has been in the water but the seals should keep the water out: if you repack you need all the seals (!)

under the steering wheel:

we hate water...
left side is 24V before fuse (24v +--+ 24v fused) right side is fused

front door switch:

diffbreather on the right side:

drownig a cruiser is like , well, you know what happened...

 

[WideAngleWandering]

The clutch is weird. It is closed system, as long as the master is full. Maybe the angle let the master go low and you now have air in the system? Bleed it and see.
j

Maybe it's just coincidence. After I finally got out of the mud, I drove it about 20 miles back home with no issues. It sat for a day while I cleaned and dried the interior and started lubing things up. Went out for a drive and within a few minutes I no longer had hydraulic pressure unless I pumped the clutch pedal to shift. I limped it to a shop nearby.

I have a spare master cylinder in my parts box. I'm wondering if it developed a leak and it's just all bad timing.

 

[Tapage]

clutch stuff looks like coincidence to me ..

what I would do is some cleaning on to your alt and starter ..

 

[WideAngleWandering]

Starter was a disgusting mess. It's clean now. Front diff was full of water - time to extend that breather hose.

I suppose the alternator is the next thing and hell, what about my a/c compressor? It was partially submerged for a while.

If I'm getting air into the clutch lines ... where are the leaks most likely to occur? I have a spare master cylinder so I may start there.

 

[crushers]

engine oil - no
i was going to mention the starter since most guys miss that one
if the tranny shifter hole wasn't under water than the tranny will be fine as well the t.case
diffs, good call
AC, a good wash should be all it needs
Alternator, you will know soon enough.
rad lower section for mud
your knuckles and wheel bearings in the front, rear self lubricating
clutch, bleed and try. if still an issue then change out the slave. i have seen them get crud in them and it can score the seal so a slow leak develops and air can get into the system
u/joints, give them a squirt of grease
check the edic motor.

 

[Cruisin']

I second the rad for mud. And when you think you've hosed it all out, do it some more. A partially clogged rad (external clog - mud) ended up costing me a head gasket in the end...

Knuckle rebuild and wheel bearings is going to be important. I just did a knuckle rebuild job and there was pitting and damage from water in some weird places. Even the bell of the birf had rust on it.

Glad to see you're taking this serious and making sure its back ship-shape.

 

[WideAngleWandering]

Swapped out the clutch master cylinder and that problem went away. The old one gave it's life to the mud hole. I've got the old one, perhaps to be rebuilt.

I haven't pulled the alternator apart or the axles.

I have picked up two new gremlins. The blower motor for the heater went out. I can't blame this on the mud hole though - the brushes were worn to dust. Strange thing - I can't find a shop that sells replacement brushes near Seattle. I've checked Napa, Vetco and Radioshack. Online source? It's chilly w/o heat. Perhaps I should just replace the motor, but Napa doesn't have one.

The stock oil pressure gauge is possessed - sometimes pegged to high whenever the ignition is on (engine running or not) and sometimes doesn't register at all. I suspect the wiring going to the pressure sensor. There are two wires currently connected and I know at least one of them was recently disturbed by a mechanic. I'll get a photo and wire colors this afternoon.

 

[Spudman]

The old diesels just keep going, good stuff on getting in there and cleaning immediately, definitely saved your truck, it's amazing how coincidences happen when you have a major issue

 

[Tapage]

if you have chance add an aftermaket real oil pressure gauge ..

 

[WideAngleWandering]

Real oil pressure gauge is on my wish list. I need to find a good gauge cluster. Already have water/egt/boost gauges. I want to add voltage & oil pressure. But where to put them ...

On to my imminent issues.

Blower Motor
I've made a few calls and nobody has brushes in the Seattle area. The part number for the motor itself is 162500-2101. From googling, it looks like a $100-130 part. Those brushes are only a couple bucks if I can find them. Tomorrow I'll check the local appliance repair shops.

In the photo you can see the one scrap of brush left, just above the housing - the rest was all dust inside the motor.

Oil Pressure Gauge
This thing has a mind of it's own. I don't know if it is coincidence, mud related, or caused by the mechanic that flushed the radiator and cleaned the starter for me.

In the attached photos, you can see two wires going to the oil pressure sensor just above the black starter. The mechanic told me they found one of those wires dangling, unterminated. They put a female spade terminal on the end and attached it to the oil pressure sending unit.

I don't remember how this was wired before - this is a part of the wiring harness that I tried to investigate once but was turned back by it's myriad complexities. I always thought it was better left unmolested.

Unwrapping the wiring a bit, I can see the two wires coming off the oil pressure sending unit go into a 3-pin rectangular plug (one pin unused). Two wires come out of that plug (one of them is just a bare stranded wire with no insulation) and disappear into a bundle of electrical tape.

Before I dig any further, I'd like some help understanding what should be there, and some tips on how to test the leads and what other connections I might find in that part of the wiring harness.

 

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

Check a wiring diagram to be sure but my oil pressure sender only had one wire going to it.

 

[hj 60]

I have two wires:

83520 GAGE ASSY,OIL PRESSURE SENDER
83520‑60020 HJ6*..EUR, 24V

dont know if the other oil pressure sensor (connected edic) is making trouble (=engine shut off after 4 seconds, should be ok or not and nothing inbetween)
SWITCH ASSY, OIL PRESSURE
08.1980 - 02.1985= 8353014010
8353028030
Did you chek the fsm for inspection/replacement tips?


SW-P1003
TOYOTA,SUZUKI,SUBARU,NISSAN,MITSUBISHI,MAZDA,KIA,HYUNDAI,DAEWOO,FORD 83530-10010,83530-10020,83530-12020,83530-14010,83530-14030,83530-28030,83530-30030,37820-73000,37820-79600,37820-80G01-000,37820-82000,37820-82001-000,37820-82002-000,37820-82001,42995-7000

The brushes look familiar, but the blower at full speed is lower than an alternator load I think:

Alternator brushes:
624.2551.90
Replaces
Isuzu 5-81215-018-0
28.0 X 8.0 X 5.0
2 per set
JNDX 32 = FT 313

 

[WideAngleWandering]

The oil pressure safety / cut-off switch is working normally (confirmed it shut off the engine at first start yesterday - I don't always build oil pressure until the second start on a cold wet day).

My oil pressure sending unit looks like yours - with two wires. I assume one is ground and the other is signal. I'll attach the multimeter and see what voltages I'm measuring. I'm not sure what to look for but I'll report what I find.

 

[lostmarbles]

...Blower Motor
I've made a few calls and nobody has brushes in the Seattle area. The part number for the motor itself is 1625100-2101. From googling, it looks like a $100-130 part. Those brushes are only a couple bucks if I can find them. Tomorrow I'll check the local appliance repair shops.

In the photo you can see the one scrap of brush left, just above the housing - the rest was all dust inside the motor....

I wonder why mine has so little brush wear in comparison...

When I took mine apart, I thought that the brushes were so unworn that the originals would probably last 100 years or more.

Where I live isn't that warm, so my heater does get a fair bit of use too..

...Oil Pressure Gauge
This thing has a mind of it's own. I don't know if it is coincidence, mud related, or caused by the mechanic that flushed the radiator and cleaned the starter for me.

In the attached photos, you can see two wires going to the oil pressure sensor just above the black starter. The mechanic told me they found one of those wires dangling, unterminated. They put a female spade terminal on the end and attached it to the oil pressure sending unit.

I don't remember how this was wired before - this is a part of the wiring harness that I tried to investigate once but was turned back by it's myriad complexities. I always thought it was better left unmolested.

Unwrapping the wiring a bit, I can see the two wires coming off the oil pressure sending unit go into a 3-pin rectangular plug (one pin unused). Two wires come out of that plug (one of them is just a bare stranded wire with no insulation) and disappear into a bundle of electrical tape.

Before I dig any further, I'd like some help understanding what should be there, and some tips on how to test the leads and what other connections I might find in that part of the wiring harness.

I think the mechanic has done the right thing by reconnecting that wire to the sender as the earth because white with a black stripe (WB) is indeed the colour code Toyota uses for earth wiring.

But is this just an optical illusion or is there damaged wiring here?

(If it is damaged there, perhaps this is the cause of your oil gauge troubles?)