Magnetic Oil Drain Plug

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After plenty of searching on MUD, the dealership, lots of cruiser vendors, and many parts stores, I give up.

Anyone know who sells a magnetic engine oil drain plug? Please include a part number if possible.

My 40 is a 6/77. The plug is 25mm with 1.5 thread pitch.

Thanks very much.
 
Those are Transmission/Transfer/Diff plugs. I ordered two of them from MAF along with what they said on the phone was a magnetic engine oil plug. When it showed up, it was not magnetic. My two new allen head diff drain plugs are very nice and MAF gave me a return authorization for the non-magnetic plug. I will hang on to it until I find a magnetic plug.

Specter never responded to my email question to tech support. The plug on their site is listed as 5/82 to 8/87. My 40 is a 6/77. I will try to call them again today and report back.

Has anyone actually bought one of these in the last 6 months? Where?

Thanks
 
Edit: Never mind. You are looking for engine plugs.

Magnetic diff/tranny is: 90341-18021, about two bucks from Toyota.
 
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Thanks for the effort... and the bump.

I can't believe this part is unobtanium!?!?
 
Just a note about my experience with magnetic oil drain plugs:

I have a 25mm-1.5 from CG Enterprises Magnetic oil drain plugs cars, trucks, motorcycle, industrial.

Sadly it does not seem fit my oil pan:confused:. It seems to start okay but then there is alot of resistance and I did not want to use alot of force since a new OEM drain plug/washer fits fine and does not leak.
Its yours for the postage.
 
Digger,

I just looked on Marlin's site again, but only saw the 10mm allen head transmission/transfer/diff plugs. Do you have an engine oil pan drain plug from Marlin? Thanks
 
Just a note about my experience with magnetic oil drain plugs:

I have a 25mm-1.5 from CG Enterprises Magnetic oil drain plugs cars, trucks, motorcycle, industrial.

Sadly it does not seem fit my oil pan:confused:. It seems to start okay but then there is alot of resistance and I did not want to use alot of force since a new OEM drain plug/washer fits fine and does not leak.
Its yours for the postage.


Blueegg,

Maybe you got a bad one?? I saw 2 available at the 25mm x 1.5 thread - 1013M and 1013SM. Which one did you order? I may try the other one.

Thanks very much for the accurate first hand info!
 
The reason you can't find a magnetic engine plug is because a magnetic engine plug isn't needed in an engine, it's got an oil filter. Mag plugs are only used (and needed) on systems that have no filtration, think of it as a very basic filter for catching steel and iron.
 
The reason you can't find a magnetic engine plug is because a magnetic engine plug isn't needed in an engine, it's got an oil filter. Mag plugs are only used (and needed) on systems that have no filtration, think of it as a very basic filter for catching steel and iron.

I see your good point, but I still want one. Here's why:

AT the Ozark Cruiser Crawl in Hot Springs a few weeks ago, I had an oil leak. The plastic tube from the sending unit under the filter to the aftermarket guage cracked right at the fitting. So I drove a big part of the trail spraying a light mist of oil which completely covered the underside of my 40. On a steep section of trail, I was alerted by a spotter of the oil. So I immediately shut it down. After winching to level ground, we discovered the problem, fixed it, and refilled with 6 quarts of oil. So it was all but dry. The 2F sounded fine the rest of the ride and when taking it off the trailer. The suggestions I got was to drain the oil, fill with a light oil like 20wt and run it at idle for 30 to 45 minutes, then change it again. When refilling, I always use 20W50 with a can of V8 Restore. I would like to see how much metal washes out with the 20wt. The only way I know how to do that is with a magnetic drain plug. I guess I could clean out my oil catch pan really well and stick a clean magnet in there? Any other suggestions?
 
It may be easy for me to say this, but I wouldn't worry about it.

I just purchased an '82 FJ40 and when taking delivery (ebay out of state sale) realized I was almost 6 qts low in motor oil. I filled her up and after driving home changed the oil. I let the drained oil (from engine & filter) sit and cool for a while and carefully examined it for any signs of metal. There were none. I then did a compression check and it was fine (All cylinders over 145 and probably over 150 now since the valve adjustment). The original 2F engine has 105K miles.

What happened was that the PO had the oid changed at a local service station that twice shorted her on oil. They put in 5.5 quarts instead of the 8.5 or 9 that's required. Slowly but surely after the oil changes the oil level dropped. Thankfully, she rarely drove it and when she did drive the FJ40 it would be just a few miles. This is why little or no damage was done to the engine.

Based on my experience I would be amazed if any damage was done to yours.

John
 
Save your time & money & paint your cage:flipoff2:

Oh yea, instead of doing this, go ahead & do the oil change then use a pocket magnet in the catch can to check for metal.

or

Get ride of the after market oil gauge to keep this from happening agin:meh:
 
Save your time & money & paint your cage:flipoff2:

Oh yea, instead of doing this, go ahead & do the oil change then use a pocket magnet in the catch can to check for metal.

or

Get ride of the after market oil gauge to keep this from happening agin:meh:


Very funny Clutchee.

As you remember, the first time this oil line cracked was pulling into your driveway! If you had not seen it, no tellin what would have happened!. I did change the angle that the line runs to the sender which should put little to no stress on it in the future. I will monitor it closely!

I might get to the cage before the SCC in October if I decide its actually done. Later bud
 
I would like to see how much metal washes out with the 20wt. The only way I know how to do that is with a magnetic drain plug. I guess I could clean out my oil catch pan really well and stick a clean magnet in there? Any other suggestions?

You still won't know how much metal is loose because the filter will catch some of it, standard practice with oil filters on CAT engines is to cut them open, that is a messy awkward job with the automotive filters but can be done.

I have seen magnetic bands for filters and also known people stick a strong magnet on the side of the filter or the outside of the oil pan. Perhas you could drill the outside head of a normal plug and bond a magnet in the hold, the steel will carry the field, might work if you use one of those fancy strong magnets.
 
Blueegg,

Maybe you got a bad one?? I saw 2 available at the 25mm x 1.5 thread - 1013M and 1013SM. Which one did you order? I may try the other one.

Thanks very much for the accurate first hand info!

I have the 1013M. Here is a photo of the 1013 and a used OEM.
DSC00881.webp
 
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Anyone see any reason that the one with the magnet would not fit as well as the original?
 
If you want to check if you've damaged anything the best plan is probably to buy an oil sample kit and do a sample. Cut your filter open and check it and if your really keen you can drop your sump and check your bearings, but a sample should let you know if your bearings are on the way out.
 

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