LX450 starting problems (1 Viewer)

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landcruiser3DP

landcruiser3DP

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i had to park the truck for brakes. it's been sitting for like 4 months while i drive the tacoma and save up for parts.
first the battery died. the upper rear hatch is bunged up (it's BLACK and i could use a lead on a used one so i don't have to paint the one i bought...) so i figured i left it ajar. i charged it with a walmart special charger and pulled rhe interior some bulbs to keep it from happening again.
at the time i had to disconnect the ground from the battery because it was making a crazy racket with some kind of clicking under the hood. eventually i tracked that down on here somehow as having to do with the factory alarm.
fast forward three months and its dead again. i bought a NOCO Genius 5 since i returned the Walmart deal. this thing took some getting used to. first it stayed on 1/4 charge for two days so i had to hood the button down for like suffering and stratifying the battery or something.
then it was giving a funny LED readout going to 3/4 LED and when to 1/2 and then to 1/4 and then back to 1/2. so at some point i disconnected the ground cable again.
by the end of it it showed GREEN LED and full charge.
however i went to start it today and it sounds like the state is cranking but it is not "turning over".
1. does none know if the factory alarm would prevent the state from trying to turn? also does anyone have a link to the delete instructions? i had it here and need to find it again.
2. i have the no start FAQ in the truck so when i get back i will re-read that too.
3. checked the EFI fuse under the hood and it is good but i swapped it with the horn one.
4. i have a oriellys version of the EFI relay i am going to pop in.
5. i guess there is a fuel pump relay? can i buy one of those from oriellys or similar? can i test this relay somehow? it kind of sounds like it is not getting gas.
6. can i pump some carb cleaner into the air intake through where the filter sits to see if it is fuel?
7. how do i check for spark again?
8. fusible link is maybe 4 years old and looks good. but i can swap it out with the one in the glovebox.
9. i have a multimeter here somewhere so i can check battery voltage but charger says it is full and it sound like it is cranking.
10. how do i check for parasitic drain and are there any usual suspect for this? truck is like bone stock except for LED interior bulbs and an aftermarket stereo.
-
what am i missing please?
THANKS

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Last edited:
Leaving any vehicle dormant for 4 months with the battery connected will result in a dead battery. This does not point to a parasitic drain. It points to a bad practice.
Once a wet cell battery is depleted, it usually will not recover. Certainly not to 100%. Replace the battery with new.
 
Follow the FSM, which you can download for free.
There is an entire section on diagnosing "No Start" condition. Just follow the manual.

As for parasitic draw, you'll need a multimeter and the Free Factory Wireing manual.
But you 'll start at the fuse block looking for anything with voltage that shouldn't.
 
" i have the no start FAQ in the truck so when i get back i will re-read that too." That should do the job. First thing, check your battery voltage.
I don't think you can get a fuel pump relay from O'Reilly's.
 
trying to find my multimeter. not quite sure where it has disappeared to.
in the meantime i checked the EFI fuse under the hood. good. swapped it out with the flasher one.
checked the IGN fuse behind the dash. good. swapped it out with a flasher one.
bought a new EFI relay at oriellys. out it in and same sound. sounds like the starter is turning but no turning over.
does anyone see the fuel pump relay in here? i thought i saw a pic showing it in Drivers Side up by the hood mount but i'm not seeing it on mine?

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The strarter spins up, but the bendix unit is not engaging the fly wheel?
 
Rusty Marlin said:
The strarter spins up, but the bendix unit is not engaging the fly wheel?
Click to expand...
sounds like it RM. i'm always learning here so i think bendix has to do with the starter i guess or is it the solenoid?
starter is less than four years old. distributor cap was done last summer. as was the ignition coil.
i was trying to print out the CHARM.io manual for charging and stating and i remembered that i had to pop this cap to get it into neutral at one point to try to roll it a bit to get it in some jackstands. so i started to wonder if i knocked something down there.
but i just tried it and i get the same sound with key in ON and transmission in D or N but it's locked out at all other positions so i think this is not it.
open to ideas obviously.
also i am curious if the starter is trying to engage does that rule out fusible link?(!)

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It's really hard when you aren't using the right terms to describe the problem. From your video it is definitely 'turning over'. Turning over means the engine is turning. You can hear the starter turning the motor and changing speeds as it goes around through it's cycles.

The first thing to check is, is the 'Check engine light' lit when you turn the key to the ON position? The screen that you have on the dash is covering it in your video so you can't see if it comes on or not. It should be on until the engine starts and then goes out assuming all things are normal. That eliminates all the relay, fuse and link swapping stuff.
 
The basic 'no start' troubleshooting goes like this:

First check: Is MIL light (check engine light) ON with key in ON position? Yes/No
If yes, proceed to check spark. If no, find electrical problem that is preventing the ECU (engine computer) from getting power.

Second Check. Does it have spark?
This step in the manual will have various test tools involved, but the easy way is a can of starting fluid. Unscrew the top of the air cleaner. Give a small spray into the air cleaner box and put the lid on, don't bother screwing it down, just go try to start it real quick. Don't spray a whole bunch in there, just a small spray will do. Does it start right up for a few seconds? If so, you have spark. If not, you probably don't, so you'll have to find the issue that is causing no spark.

If it starts right up for a second with the starting fluid, that means it's running on the starting fluid, and your issue is fuel related (no fuel) so you'll have to find the issue with why you aren't getting fuel. It could still be a compression issue as well, but that's a more serious condition that is less likely.

Engines need four things to run. Air, Fuel, Spark, Compression.
 
sbman said:
It's really hard when you aren't using the right terms to describe the problem. From your video it is definitely 'turning over'. Turning over means the engine is turning. You can hear the starter turning the motor and changing speeds as it goes around through it's cycles.

The first thing to check is, is the 'Check engine light' lit when you turn the key to the ON position? The screen that you have on the dash is covering it in your video so you can't see if it comes on or not. It should be on until the engine starts and then goes out assuming all things are normal. That eliminates all the relay, fuse and link swapping stuff.
Click to expand...
hey. thanks a lot for that. apologies.
i removed the gauge. i kept trying to find a place for it and i didn't do a very good job.
so if i understand (i took a video) car door symbol is on when i open the door obviously and the engine symbol is in fact on when i have key in On position.
are you saying this gets me up to the engine basically?
like fusible link and all relays and all all fuses and the i fiction switch itself is ruled out?
-
oh, on turning over. sorry i wasn't sure if i was - well i sort of half understand some of this. when i hear that noise the starter is spinning, then solenoid went slam (?) so its activated, and the flywheel in the engine is spinning? so its "turned over"? so its either not getting fuel to ignite or not getting a spark to ignite or - well it could not be getting air?
or how do i think about it?
THANK YOU

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sbman said:
The basic 'no start' troubleshooting goes like this:

First check: Is MIL light (check engine light) ON with key in ON position? Yes/No
If yes, proceed to check spark. If no, find electrical problem that is preventing the ECU (engine computer) from getting power.

Second Check. Does it have spark?
This step in the manual will have various test tools involved, but the easy way is a can of starting fluid. Unscrew the top of the air cleaner. Give a small spray into the air cleaner box and put the lid on, don't bother screwing it down, just go try to start it real quick. Don't spray a whole bunch in there, just a small spray will do. Does it start right up for a few seconds? If so, you have spark. If not, you probably don't, so you'll have to find the issue that is causing no spark.

If it starts right up for a second with the starting fluid, that means it's running on the starting fluid, and your issue is fuel related (no fuel) so you'll have to find the issue with why you aren't getting fuel. It could still be a compression issue as well, but that's a more serious condition that is less likely.

Engines need four things to run. Air, Fuel, Spark, Compression.
Click to expand...
hey. thanks a ton.
i see on the manual i should basically look for spins and engine cranks" but - well "engine doesn't start" or something.
anyway on "starter fluid" i never did figure out what this is even though i have heard it a bunch. i have lighter fluid and i have carb and choke cleaner and i have brake cleaner.
i should spray some carb and choke cleaner (or whatever it says on the can) in there?
THANK YOU
 
landcruiser3DP said:
hey. thanks a ton.
i see on the manual i should basically look for spins and engine cranks" but - well "engine doesn't start" or something.
anyway on "starter fluid" i never did figure out what this is even though i have heard it a bunch. i have lighter fluid and i have carb and choke cleaner and i have brake cleaner.
i should spray some carb and choke cleaner (or whatever it says on the can) in there?
THANK YOU
Click to expand...
No those are not the same things. Starting fluid is a different thing than anything you have. Literally says starting fluid on the can. Sold at auto parts stores.

There are other ways to check for spark, they are just more complicated. I'm not sure what process the FSM has you do.
 
sbman said:
No those are not the same things. Starting fluid is a different thing than anything you have. Literally says starting fluid on the can. Sold at auto parts stores.

There are other ways to check for spark, they are just more complicated. I'm not sure what process the FSM has you do.
Click to expand...
thanks. i'll go pick some up tomorrow. appreciate the help.
 
jonheld said:
As stated multiple times in 100 other threads, if the CEL is not illuminated with the key in the ON position before cranking the starter, this engine WILL NOT RUN.
Click to expand...
hey thanks jh.
i didn't quite catch that "CEL" and "MIL" and "check engine light" are all the same things.
or at least i think they are.
also until someone else posted i didn't really understand that that light can be used as a diagnostic telling you - well i guess what we are saying is it is telling you that all ignition related relays and fuses and any lockouts like neutral safety switch or other things that lock out - like the alarm i guess - are not preventing it from starting if you see it.
meaning in my case since i do see the light and it is not starting - then you can move further down toward the engine.
again i think - but that means that because the engine is in fact "turning over" and spinning.
but it is not getting ignited because there is no spark. or it is not getting ignited because there is no fuel to ignite. or somewhat more remotely there is no fuel or not enough compression to ignite.
how does that sound please?
 
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