I have a few updates. Mostly I have been doing mini-projects as prep for this project and other non-related projects. For example, I built a garage workbench to hold the transmission holder for changing the 6L90E output shaft. I also needed a place to organize my tools, as well as have a flat work space.
Recently, I have been cleaning out the garage bay just to make room. I still have to relocate a motorcycle, which might have to live outside for a few months.
Fully assembled L96 + 6L90e + Adapter + Transfer Case. BTW, and I believe someone else mentioned this, don't use the bolts that Mark's includes. Junk. They don't go deep enough into the 6L80/90 transmission and I stripped out one set of internal threads in the 6L90e case trying to get to factory torque. Thankfully, those bolts don't go fully in and I was able to use the original flanged GM bolts and torque them up to spec, even with the hole with the stripped threads.
Last weekend, I moved the LX450 from where it was parked outside to just in front of the garage. The LX450 isn't running and wasn't fun to drag around the yard. Hopefully it gets moved inside today. I am still looking at a way to heat the garage over the winter, which will be another one of those mini-projects... The other car we have is a Chevy Volt, and a minor downside of an electric car is that it has nearly zero residual heat after it is parked. Meaning the garage is basically the same as outside temp throughout the winter.
This airbox and snorkel just arrived from Australia. New Radius airbox with LS lid. US <-> AUS exchange rates are great at the moment, but shipping cost almost made it not worth doing. Local US distributor didn't show the Radius airbox with the LS lid and even with the high AUS->US shipping, it was still a few hundred dollars cheaper to order direct.
Oh, finally finished the tailgate lid. I was missing a 1/2 the hinge rivets and @RuggedBound sent them to me. I used M6 button head bolts, instead of rivets, to bolt the tailgate lid to the tailgate.
I have a few updates. Mostly I have been doing mini-projects as prep for this project and other non-related projects. For example, I built a garage workbench to hold the transmission holder for changing the 6L90E output shaft. I also needed a place to organize my tools, as well as have a flat work space.
Recently, I have been cleaning out the garage bay just to make room. I still have to relocate a motorcycle, which might have to live outside for a few months.
Fully assembled L96 + 6L90e + Adapter + Transfer Case. BTW, and I believe someone else mentioned this, don't use the bolts that Mark's includes. Junk. They don't go deep enough into the 6L80/90 transmission and I stripped out one set of internal threads in the 6L90e case trying to get to factory torque. Thankfully, those bolts don't go fully in and I was able to use the original flanged GM bolts and torque them up to spec, even with the hole with the stripped threads.
Last weekend, I moved the LX450 from where it was parked outside to just in front of the garage. The LX450 isn't running and wasn't fun to drag around the yard. Hopefully it gets moved inside today. I am still looking at a way to heat the garage over the winter, which will be another one of those mini-projects... The other car we have is a Chevy Volt, and a minor downside of an electric car is that it has nearly zero residual heat after it is parked. Meaning the garage is basically the same as outside temp throughout the winter.
This airbox and snorkel just arrived from Australia. New Radius airbox with LS lid. US <-> AUS exchange rates are great at the moment, but shipping cost almost made it not worth doing. Local US distributor didn't show the Radius airbox with the LS lid and even with the high AUS->US shipping, it was still a few hundred dollars cheaper to order direct.
Oh, finally finished the tailgate lid. I was missing a 1/2 the hinge rivets and @RuggedBound sent them to me. I used M6 button head bolts, instead of rivets, to bolt the tailgate lid to the tailgate.
Yes, the AUS/US exchange rate is really good right now. I'm waiting for my snorkel and airbox to ship. They had to send my snorkel back for powder coating because they didn't like how it turned out.
The van oil pan is a no go. Sump too long. It is 9" from front to back. I just ordered a 302-1 holley knock-off for $200, which is like the GM muscle car pan.
Also, the flange is also too close, but the axle is shifted left by about an 1" due to the lift. A adjustable panhard bar will need to be purchased to center the front axle and move the axle away from the oil pan. I plan for new driveshafts once everything is in place.
I am thinking about buying Delta VS front 1" extended length radius arm to gain additional clearance between the relay rod and the 302-1 oil pan.
I do want the motor as far back as possible to clear the front relay rod, but I have to keep in mind that a 6l90e is 35mm longer than a 6l80e, which is longer than the 343F.
I did pick up a LS crossmember meant for a LS/6l80e, but I am not so sure about it. The slots go forward from center, not rearward from center. You would think it would be the latter if accomandating a longer transmission. They maybe putting the LS motor very far forward compared to where Marks 4WD mounts places the motor.
I might be butchering the crossmember to shift it further rearward....
Thought I throw this up here. Knock-Off 302-1 arrived. Ruler for scale, and the sump is 1 to 2" shorter in length. Holds 5.5 quarts, 6.0 quarts with an oil filter. I will be going with an oil cooler for additional capacity and cooling.
Doesn't have an internal pressure bypass like the stock pan, which means one should buy an oil filter that has one built in: FRAM PH48 or WIX 57060. I am going with the latter.
tldr: Installed DeltaVS 3L Radius Arms and Panhard Bracket, Dobinson adjustable front and rear Panhard bars and Dobinson upper and lower rear links, moved engine mounts 1.25" forward and 0.5" right.
After much thought, I decided to move the factory Toyota frame mounts 1.25" forward, and 0.5" right ( US Passenger).
This puts the engine closer to the center of the vehicle, and provides additional clearance for the PS pump, driver's side exhaust manifold, and firewall. My engine has a type II PS pump, which appears to have added clearance issues over the type I pumps.
I will have to account for the 0.5" right engine shift at the transmission mount. Moving the 1.25" forward helps because I am using a 6l90e transmission, which is 1 1/3" longer than a 6l80e.
Also, I chose SUM-G9084B headers, which have added clearance issues with the driver's frame rail compared to the SUM-G9080B. I probably should have gone with the latter, which is what everyone else uses.
Moving the mount forward raises the engine, but there is still hood clearance. I also had to make sure the engine mount angle was maintained because the angle of the frame changes as you go forward.
Mock up of the mounts at the new position. I have since removed them for full welding.
Hood clearance with engine at new position. Engine has been removed once again, hopefully for the last time.
PS clearance with original pulley. Thumb for scale...
Driver's side exhaust manifold clearance. I can barely fit a finger in the gap.
Coils and shocks removed, and front axle jacked up to test for engine clearance to the front axle.
Oil Pan Clearance to axle and driveshaft.
DeltaVS 3L front radius arms with new bushings.
Worn factory bushing. All links have been replaced with Dobinsons with new bushings.
Setting the size of the Dobinson control arms to the same as factory..to start.
DeltaVS Panhard Mount. My rear axle is very rusty and I will be replacing the housing once the engine swap is complete.
Full compression, with the DeltaVS 3L arms, no springs and shocks. Clearance to the engine is fine but I did notice that the Dobinson adjustable Panhard bar is making contact with that frame support cross tube.
Removed the engine for the last time over the weekend (hopefully), and fully welded the mounts in the new location. The photo shows weld-through primer and an scuffed area for the grounding clamp.
My welds are better. The last time I had trouble, the machine was accidently set to 120V, but with 240V settings. It is a tiny switch in the back, near the bigger On/Off switch.
Threw some satin chassis black paint on the frame rails.
It is so hard not just do more...strip everything, prep, and then paint. Not baselining...just building a useful tool that will be used hard.
Focus is to get a running/driving LS conversion first, then worry about the other s*** later...
Pulled the engine again, threw some primer on the firewall, and installed new rear heater pipes. I broke the A/C line while do it, but it looks like it needed to be replaced anyway.
Painted parts of the front axle and frame and installed new Dobinson 2.5" VT coils ( C97-146VT ) and Dobinson's IMS45-60912 IFP shocks. I have the rears too, but the rear axle and frame need real attention. Working on that now.
You can see also a repainted Budbullt tie rod and Dobinson's adjustable draglink. All new ends from @cruiseroutfit
Bought a press on 90 degree fitting for my PS pump to help with clearance issues, but it was designed for a different type II PS pump. I confirmed with the LSX Concepts and ordered a Tuff Stuff 6175AL-1 PS pump.
First attempt at Intake piping.
I am working on the main gas tank, extended range tank right, rear frame, frame around the main tank, PS pump/reservoir and plumbing. Pictures to come.
Engine was missing the top filler tube for the transmission and the bottom tube was meant for a van. Found a Dorman knock off from an older 6.0 truck that works. Ordered from Rock Auto.
Ordered and received a set of rear backing plates from @TRAIL TAILOR.
Mine are super rusty and I wanted the backing plates on hand when I get to the rear axle.
I thought I might have had to replace my rear axle due to rust, but I think it has some life left in it.
Newly assembled fuel pump ( Aeromotive 11540), new fuel level gauge, new low level sensor, and new evap tube. Everything is new.
Edited to add, I think I would either install the Supra MKIV fuel pump or the one from the V8 4Runner or Early V8 Tundra.
For future reference:
Supra MK IV Fuel Pump:
Old Denso number: 195130-1020
New Denso number: 195130-1270
Denso kit w/pump number: 950-0155
Toyota number: 23221-46110
Kyosan number: E3000-146825
Much of my time has been spent cleaning, sanding, priming and painting. I am only do areas that are easier to do now, like behind/above the gas tanks. Doing as little as necessary.
Removing all the tiny rust spots on the bottom of the floor pan as well.
BTW, I spent an hour pulling mouse nest out of the passenger rocker panel. It just kept coming and coming...
Below you see finished crossmember with an original in the back. The one in the back has gotten one pass of Rust Oleum Krud Kutter anti-rust treatment. The stuff works great. It is a gel that you let sit and then wash off with water. Repeat as necessary.
You can also see Fluid Film sprayed into all the problem areas. I need to buy Fluid Film by the case.
I have been trying to figure out a proper PS reservoir. Chinese reservoirs are plentiful and cheap. Ford Superduty 250/350 PS reservoir were also an option due to their design. I could have figured out a way to mount the original 1FZ PS reservoir as well.
I finally decided on a PSC PS off-road reservoir because @RLMS makes an LS mount for it. I had to modify it a bit to work with a Gen IV alternator/PS bracket as I think it was designed for the prior Gen III LS alternator/PS bracket.
The original 2020 PS pump is the above picture and currently installed.
A new Tuff Stuff 6175AL-1 PS pump arrived yesterday, which fits the 90 degree inlet I am using better. The latter is needed for clearance issues.
This tank was ordered from Man-A-Fre years and years ago. At the time, I was towing a camper trailer and I was looking for fuel range of more than 150 miles.
I just ordered a Holly 12427 Fuel Pump as it was never shipped with a fuel transfer pump. Kit was missing it. Kit also had an incorrect sending unit, which I replaced with a RA9514-AC-LP-SPC from ISSPro. This is a vertical sending unit (0 - 90 ohm) , and doesn't use a horizontal lever.
I am using the Holly because it is one of the few inline pumps rated for E85 and I am trying to make the entire fuel system E85 safe. Why? No idea..lol... but since I was redoing it, might as well.
Getting the tank up by myself wasn't easy....but it was easier than the factory tank.
Views from behind. I painted it flat black., which makes it less noticeable.
new PS pump arrived. Slightly different than the 2020 stock pump, but that 90 degree bend was designed to work with it.
Now I got clearance issues again! I have to cock the fitting about 45 degrees, rather than straight up, to clear PS box. This means new PS feed line will need to be made, which also means that the PS high pressure line needs to be redone because the new PS feed line location now interferes with it.
The type II PS pump has the hardest part of this swap....
Hopefully it gets moved inside today. I am still looking at a way to heat the garage over the winter, which will be another one of those mini-projects... The other car we have is a Chevy Volt, and a minor downside of an electric car is that it has nearly zero residual heat after it is parked. Meaning the garage is basically the same as outside temp throughout the winter. 
US Passenger). 
