NeverFinis
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- #141
ICECO 75L refrigerator slide arrived and now bolted in using T-Nuts.
Builds LX450 "Rex" Build (2 Viewers)
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NeverFinis
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- #142
I went to pick up a new rear axle housing, among other things, at a local Toyota dealership and found this
They are ordering another one. This one took a month for them to get.
They are ordering another one. This one took a month for them to get.
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NeverFinis
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- #143
It has been awhile. I got hit with a lung infection (probably covid but tested negative with the at-home test) in early August. Got over that fairly quick. Fever broke on day 4. However, it left crap in my lungs that caused mild pneumonia on day 6. That lasted a few days, as measured by another fever. But I am still dealing with the s*** left over in my lungs for the last 3 weeks, which can be best described as "covid cough."
I picked up another axle from Toyota, which also punched through its shipping box on both sides. As far as I can tell, the axle is undamaged and I am keeping it. I posted a thread asking for opinions.
I picked up a new hood, hood insulator, and firewall insulator with the same initial order. None of them had shipping issues like the axle.
I recently noticed that my new brake lights weren't working, and I had to bypass the safety neutral interlock to put the truck in drive. This is all related to the brake light circuit. Toyota checks to see if your foot is on the brake before it lets you switch out of park.
I tracked it down to an intermittent issue at the IG2 connector (IH2 on FZJ80) in the driver's kick panel. You can see that I did a repair on pin 2 wire, which happens to be the brake like circuit. I unconnected and then reconnected the connector. It also seemed to be under tension and I moved it behind another wiring harness, rather than in front of it, to relieve some of that tension and that seemed to fix it. Something I need to remember if I have the same issues in the future. The harness has been unconnected and reconnected multiple times during the rebuild. I might have not put IG2 back in the original location when I last reconnected the IG2 connector. It is very tight in the driver's kick panel.
Back on the brakes. I bought a pressure tester because my brakes were still soft after tons of bleeding and ABS activations.
Press once and I get about 1050 PSI.
Press a second time (not pumping), and I get 1450 PSI. This is with the tires off and no weight on the front axle.
This leads me to believe I have either loose wheel bearings and/or sticky calipers. I checked the calipers a few weeks back and all the pistons moved, but they could still be sticky. I did redo the bearings right before the truck was taken off the road, and I suspect I didn't put enough preload on the bearings.
I decided to order new rotors all around since I need to redo the knuckles. The rear rotors are easy to replace, but the fronts is a major project. Might as well replace them if I am rebuilding the front knuckles.
My current rotors, although old, have very little miles on them. I will probably remove them and have them turned and save them for later.
So, I am now waiting on all the axle parts that I have ordered.
I picked up another axle from Toyota, which also punched through its shipping box on both sides. As far as I can tell, the axle is undamaged and I am keeping it. I posted a thread asking for opinions.
I picked up a new hood, hood insulator, and firewall insulator with the same initial order. None of them had shipping issues like the axle.
I recently noticed that my new brake lights weren't working, and I had to bypass the safety neutral interlock to put the truck in drive. This is all related to the brake light circuit. Toyota checks to see if your foot is on the brake before it lets you switch out of park.
I tracked it down to an intermittent issue at the IG2 connector (IH2 on FZJ80) in the driver's kick panel. You can see that I did a repair on pin 2 wire, which happens to be the brake like circuit. I unconnected and then reconnected the connector. It also seemed to be under tension and I moved it behind another wiring harness, rather than in front of it, to relieve some of that tension and that seemed to fix it. Something I need to remember if I have the same issues in the future. The harness has been unconnected and reconnected multiple times during the rebuild. I might have not put IG2 back in the original location when I last reconnected the IG2 connector. It is very tight in the driver's kick panel.
Back on the brakes. I bought a pressure tester because my brakes were still soft after tons of bleeding and ABS activations.
Press once and I get about 1050 PSI.
Press a second time (not pumping), and I get 1450 PSI. This is with the tires off and no weight on the front axle.
This leads me to believe I have either loose wheel bearings and/or sticky calipers. I checked the calipers a few weeks back and all the pistons moved, but they could still be sticky. I did redo the bearings right before the truck was taken off the road, and I suspect I didn't put enough preload on the bearings.
I decided to order new rotors all around since I need to redo the knuckles. The rear rotors are easy to replace, but the fronts is a major project. Might as well replace them if I am rebuilding the front knuckles.
My current rotors, although old, have very little miles on them. I will probably remove them and have them turned and save them for later.
So, I am now waiting on all the axle parts that I have ordered.
NeverFinis
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- #144
Pulled the front spindles and they look good but I have new ones on the way. There is a seal wear groove on both which you can feel. The passenger spindle has a second "groove" that you can see but can't feel. It is the spindle on the right in the picture.
Close up
The axle nuts were hit with a chisel at some point. I know I never did it since I have had the 54mm socket long before buying the LX450. I bought it with 76K miles, 4 years old, and I suspect it was done during a dealer front axle service.
Original vs New front locker actuators.
Close up
The axle nuts were hit with a chisel at some point. I know I never did it since I have had the 54mm socket long before buying the LX450. I bought it with 76K miles, 4 years old, and I suspect it was done during a dealer front axle service.
Original vs New front locker actuators.
NeverFinis
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- #145
Still having coughing fits but getting better...
Cleaning, cleaning, cleaning, and more cleaning...and some painting.
Axle seals pulled, but not the knuckle races yet.
Cleaned and painted the knuckles.
Tons of crud behind the locker actuator, which I have since cleaned off. There appears to be grease on the geared slider.
I am thinking of pulling the front diff to give it a good cleaning, derusting, and paint. New studs, washers and nuts are on the way.
The FSM states you need to lock the locker before pulling the axles. Since my rear locker is non-operative (next to fix), I couldn't lock the front locker. I pulled the locker actuator in the unlocked state, and then manually moved the geared slider to the left to lock the diff. I then pulled the axles.
When I put the axles back in, I will need to remember to slide the geared slider to the right, and and then install the new locker actuator. Something I need to remember to do.
Cleaning, cleaning, cleaning, and more cleaning...and some painting.
Axle seals pulled, but not the knuckle races yet.
Cleaned and painted the knuckles.
Tons of crud behind the locker actuator, which I have since cleaned off. There appears to be grease on the geared slider.
I am thinking of pulling the front diff to give it a good cleaning, derusting, and paint. New studs, washers and nuts are on the way.
The FSM states you need to lock the locker before pulling the axles. Since my rear locker is non-operative (next to fix), I couldn't lock the front locker. I pulled the locker actuator in the unlocked state, and then manually moved the geared slider to the left to lock the diff. I then pulled the axles.
When I put the axles back in, I will need to remember to slide the geared slider to the right, and and then install the new locker actuator. Something I need to remember to do.
NeverFinis
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- #146
Pulled the front axles and it does look like my passenger wheel bearings were very loose. I am not sure how I messed that up years ago, but I did.
I am watching videos on fzj80 bearing set up and I see them taking big hammers to seat the bearings. Either dead blow to the rotor, or 5 lb sledge to the tire if it is mounted. Hit, rotate, tighten lock nut, repeat... Keep doing it until you can no longer tighten the lock nut. Back off and then set the torque. I was probably way too gentle when I did it last time.
The bottom axle is the short axle side (passenger). It has a very deep groove, unlike the driver's axle. This indicates to me the bearing was very loose, allowing the axle to torque into the inner axle seal.
The driver's axle is reusable, especially if you shift the seal inward, but I don't think I can reuse the short axle. I just ordered new axles from @cruiseroutfit , which delays the front axle rebuilding for another week.
I also have birfields, and knuckle rebuild kit, coming from them from an earlier order, and misc front axle bolts coming from IMPEX and PartSouq.
I am watching videos on fzj80 bearing set up and I see them taking big hammers to seat the bearings. Either dead blow to the rotor, or 5 lb sledge to the tire if it is mounted. Hit, rotate, tighten lock nut, repeat... Keep doing it until you can no longer tighten the lock nut. Back off and then set the torque. I was probably way too gentle when I did it last time.
The bottom axle is the short axle side (passenger). It has a very deep groove, unlike the driver's axle. This indicates to me the bearing was very loose, allowing the axle to torque into the inner axle seal.
The driver's axle is reusable, especially if you shift the seal inward, but I don't think I can reuse the short axle. I just ordered new axles from @cruiseroutfit , which delays the front axle rebuilding for another week.
I also have birfields, and knuckle rebuild kit, coming from them from an earlier order, and misc front axle bolts coming from IMPEX and PartSouq.
NeverFinis
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Waiting on front axle parts from Japan so doing odd and ends,
New knuckle studs from @Delta VS Not shown, Nut Huggers from them as well
New spindles from @cruiseroutfit
One arrived damaged (right), but they shipped a replacement right away (left).
I bought the knuckle rebuild kit from them as well and it is very complete, including shims.
New fuse box sticker...the old one was hard to read
I had to track down an issue why the interior dome light wasn't working because a replacement bulb didn't solve the issue. Cluster open door light was not activating with the door open, which meant it was earlier in the circuit. It was simply the dome light fuse. Thus the sticker above.
New washer pump solenoid. Old vs New. No reason to replace..I just saw IMPEX could get it.
New brackets for the LSPV. IMPEX was able to get these parts, unlike other places that said no longer available.
The bushing was almost nothing in the original.
Drove in the front inner axle seals. As I learned, the seal drivers specifically meant to do this should only be used to drive the final few millimeters to recess the seal. Otherwise you have to be perfectly centered while driving the seal in. Not an easy task. Use a seal driver that is bigger than the outside diameter of the seal (50mm) to drive the seal most of the way. The force is guaranteed to be transferred to the edge of the seal. Then switch over for the final few millimeters.
I replaced this new inner axle seal because the specialty seal driver didn't stay centered on the outside edge. Skill issue on my part. The specialty seal drivers are also not 50mm, but 47-48mm, which means you really have to be centered because the driver is already 1 or 2 millimeters inside the outside edge of the seal.
Would this seal have worked? Probably..but it is work to get to it if it needed to be replaced and I had a spare.
New knuckle studs from @Delta VS Not shown, Nut Huggers from them as well
New spindles from @cruiseroutfit
One arrived damaged (right), but they shipped a replacement right away (left).
I bought the knuckle rebuild kit from them as well and it is very complete, including shims.
New fuse box sticker...the old one was hard to read
I had to track down an issue why the interior dome light wasn't working because a replacement bulb didn't solve the issue. Cluster open door light was not activating with the door open, which meant it was earlier in the circuit. It was simply the dome light fuse. Thus the sticker above.
New washer pump solenoid. Old vs New. No reason to replace..I just saw IMPEX could get it.
New brackets for the LSPV. IMPEX was able to get these parts, unlike other places that said no longer available.
The bushing was almost nothing in the original.
Drove in the front inner axle seals. As I learned, the seal drivers specifically meant to do this should only be used to drive the final few millimeters to recess the seal. Otherwise you have to be perfectly centered while driving the seal in. Not an easy task. Use a seal driver that is bigger than the outside diameter of the seal (50mm) to drive the seal most of the way. The force is guaranteed to be transferred to the edge of the seal. Then switch over for the final few millimeters.
I replaced this new inner axle seal because the specialty seal driver didn't stay centered on the outside edge. Skill issue on my part. The specialty seal drivers are also not 50mm, but 47-48mm, which means you really have to be centered because the driver is already 1 or 2 millimeters inside the outside edge of the seal.
Would this seal have worked? Probably..but it is work to get to it if it needed to be replaced and I had a spare.
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I used speedi-sleeves on my front shafts. It was sketchy putting them on but it did work.
NeverFinis
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- #149
Great idea, I will get a few speed-sleeves and keep my old axles as spares.
To the build...
I was able to get the fuel line brackets, with the correct nuts, from IMPEX. They were NA elsewhere. I had two that were completely bluetooth due to rust. I tried getting the fuel line brackets used but no luck.
This bracket was the toughest one to replace as the nut had rusted from a 10mm to something like an ~8mm. Dremel, and chisel...
The stud was fine, with no rust, after removal of the rusty bracket. I did notice a bit of rust on one of the fuel lines, which I am taking care of.
I had bought the plastic inserts as well, but the originals were all fine. I tried replacing one plastic insert, but it was a bitch..
Closeup of the rust on the return/evap line. These fuel lines, like the brake lines, are very thick.
The exact same bracket: Old vs New
New vs two old brackets. The old brackets had rust underneath, which you couldn't see.
I still have a few more to do, but I replaced the most sus ones.
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I need a few fuel line brackets as well. Impex lately has had everything I needed.Great idea, I will get a few speed-sleeves and keep my old axles as spares.
To the build...
I was able to get the fuel line brackets, with the correct nuts, from IMPEX. They were NA elsewhere. I had two that were completely bluetooth due to rust. I tried getting the fuel line brackets used but no luck.
This bracket was the toughest one to replace as the nut had rusted from a 10mm to something like an ~8mm. Dremel, and chisel...
View attachment 3732545
The stud was fine, with no rust, after removal of the rusty bracket. I did notice a bit of rust on one of the fuel lines, which I am taking care of.
View attachment 3732547
I had bought the plastic inserts as well, but the originals were all fine. I tried replacing one plastic insert, but it was a bitch..
View attachment 3732550
Closeup of the rust on the return/evap line. These fuel lines, like the brake lines, are very thick.
View attachment 3732555
The exact same bracket: Old vs New
View attachment 3732553
New vs two old brackets. The old brackets had rust underneath, which you couldn't see.
View attachment 3732558
I still have a few more to do, but I replaced the most sus ones.
NeverFinis
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Well, pulled the dash again.
I had two problems I wanted to address while waiting on axle parts.
I guess it helps to be connected...
I had the appropriate diagnostic pages printed..ready to track down the issue only to find I forgot to connect it! Yea, I didn't need to pull the dash to fix this issue.
As for the second issue, the A/C Amplifier was doing its thing and I was focusing on these two relays. I had checked everything upstream.
These relays are located on top the evaporator. I did not want to pull the evaporator as the A/C has been charged.
When A/C is called for, the A/C amplifier grounds the Compressor Relay. This relay switches from NO CONNECT to CONNECT , allowing +12V to pass through. This picture shows it is NO CONNECT when not activated.
The next relay in the circuit is the Engine Coolant Temp Cut Relay. This relay is normally CONNECT, as shown by the picture. This relay cuts power, NO CONNECT, to the A/C Compressor clutch when the engine is too hot. This relay isn't used in a LS Swap, and can be bypassed. Leaving in the relay, as long as it defaults to CONNECT, is fine.
I pulled and tested both relays and they both functioned. I had replaced both, but the Engine Coolant Temp Cut Relay was an amazon special.
According to the manual (see pic above), as I have previously wrote, this relay is normally CONNECT without Power/GND. When I tested the relay, it was NO CONNECT without Power. This is the opposite of what it should be.
I found the original Toyota relay, and it was CONNECT without Power, as it should be. I swapped it back in and solved the A/C activation issue.
The new relay has the correct part number: 90987-03001
Toyota Original 90987-03001 vs Amazon 90987-03001
I replaced the original relay because it had some abuse by mice, but it still worked.
Well, I did find an issue with the harness at the climate control, which I have fixed. So, it wasn't a total time waste pulling the dash.
Dash going back in soon.
I had two problems I wanted to address while waiting on axle parts.
- The output air blend door wasn't working (feet, face, and/or defrost).
- The A/C Compressor Clutch signal wasn't working.
I guess it helps to be connected...
I had the appropriate diagnostic pages printed..ready to track down the issue only to find I forgot to connect it! Yea, I didn't need to pull the dash to fix this issue.
As for the second issue, the A/C Amplifier was doing its thing and I was focusing on these two relays. I had checked everything upstream.
These relays are located on top the evaporator. I did not want to pull the evaporator as the A/C has been charged.
When A/C is called for, the A/C amplifier grounds the Compressor Relay. This relay switches from NO CONNECT to CONNECT , allowing +12V to pass through. This picture shows it is NO CONNECT when not activated.
The next relay in the circuit is the Engine Coolant Temp Cut Relay. This relay is normally CONNECT, as shown by the picture. This relay cuts power, NO CONNECT, to the A/C Compressor clutch when the engine is too hot. This relay isn't used in a LS Swap, and can be bypassed. Leaving in the relay, as long as it defaults to CONNECT, is fine.
I pulled and tested both relays and they both functioned. I had replaced both, but the Engine Coolant Temp Cut Relay was an amazon special.
According to the manual (see pic above), as I have previously wrote, this relay is normally CONNECT without Power/GND. When I tested the relay, it was NO CONNECT without Power. This is the opposite of what it should be.
I found the original Toyota relay, and it was CONNECT without Power, as it should be. I swapped it back in and solved the A/C activation issue.
The new relay has the correct part number: 90987-03001
Toyota Original 90987-03001 vs Amazon 90987-03001
I replaced the original relay because it had some abuse by mice, but it still worked.
Well, I did find an issue with the harness at the climate control, which I have fixed. So, it wasn't a total time waste pulling the dash.
Dash going back in soon.
Air Conditioning
NeverFinis
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- #152
This is how I did A/C with SwapTime's Muscle Car Module.
I connected the B/W wire, labelled A in the picture, to Pin 21 of the Muscle Car Module: AC Request Input (12V = AC ON)(Brown)
This wire can be found behind the glove box on an Toyota ECU connector (1996 Lexus LX450: E7, Pin 7, B-W).
I then used a 30amp relay, mainly to take advantage of the Muscle Car Module A/C programming as well as increase wiring size as GM A/C clutch requires a 15 Amp fuse while Toyota uses a 10 Amp fuse. Toyota would have used smaller gauge wiring compared to GM.
For relay pin 86 (Control Power), I used ED1, Pin 2, B-W (1996 Lexus LX450). Labelled B in the Picture. This is found on the passenger fender and it is last connector before the Toyota compressor.
For relay pin 85 (Control GND), I used MCM pin 4: AC Relay (Ground Output) ( Dark Green)
For relay pin 30 (Power), I wired it directly to the battery, with a 15 amp fuse.
For relay pin 87 (GND), I wired to ground.
The original Toyota Engine Cut Relay can remain and defaults to closed but everything else works on the Toyota side, including the high/low pressure cutout, starter cut, etc.
You could just wire the Toyota A/C Clutch to the GM A/C Clutch, but a few issues.
1) Toyota uses smaller gauge wiring than GM. 10 Amp Fuse vs 15 Amp Fuse.
2) The GM ECU would have no idea A/C was requested and couldn't turn it off it needed.
With the MCM module controlling the GND of the new A/C Clutch relay, it can operate with "built in safeties (rpm, tps, ac pressure, and voltage)."
From my reading of the MCM instructions, the MCM only starts its A/C programming if it sees +12V on pin 21. This means you can't use MCM pin 4 GND to control the Toyota Engine Cut Relay control GND, labelled C in the picture. It is a catch-22. You must use another relay.
I connected the B/W wire, labelled A in the picture, to Pin 21 of the Muscle Car Module: AC Request Input (12V = AC ON)(Brown)
This wire can be found behind the glove box on an Toyota ECU connector (1996 Lexus LX450: E7, Pin 7, B-W).
I then used a 30amp relay, mainly to take advantage of the Muscle Car Module A/C programming as well as increase wiring size as GM A/C clutch requires a 15 Amp fuse while Toyota uses a 10 Amp fuse. Toyota would have used smaller gauge wiring compared to GM.
For relay pin 86 (Control Power), I used ED1, Pin 2, B-W (1996 Lexus LX450). Labelled B in the Picture. This is found on the passenger fender and it is last connector before the Toyota compressor.
For relay pin 85 (Control GND), I used MCM pin 4: AC Relay (Ground Output) ( Dark Green)
For relay pin 30 (Power), I wired it directly to the battery, with a 15 amp fuse.
For relay pin 87 (GND), I wired to ground.
The original Toyota Engine Cut Relay can remain and defaults to closed but everything else works on the Toyota side, including the high/low pressure cutout, starter cut, etc.
You could just wire the Toyota A/C Clutch to the GM A/C Clutch, but a few issues.
1) Toyota uses smaller gauge wiring than GM. 10 Amp Fuse vs 15 Amp Fuse.
2) The GM ECU would have no idea A/C was requested and couldn't turn it off it needed.
With the MCM module controlling the GND of the new A/C Clutch relay, it can operate with "built in safeties (rpm, tps, ac pressure, and voltage)."
From my reading of the MCM instructions, the MCM only starts its A/C programming if it sees +12V on pin 21. This means you can't use MCM pin 4 GND to control the Toyota Engine Cut Relay control GND, labelled C in the picture. It is a catch-22. You must use another relay.
Front Axle
NeverFinis
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- #153
I have been working on the front axle, replacing every nut, stud, bolt, bearing, seal and gasket. It has been taking awhile because I ordered some parts from IMPEX and they take forever to ship and then the package got delayed by US Customs.
New dust shield, birfields, axles, and axle spindle. Only the knuckle and hub are original.
I still have to set the inside tabs on the nut retainer.
New locker actuator, diff gasket, studs, washers and nuts. The two very long studs that go through the locker actuator are NA, but you can get slightly longer studs.
The dust shield is now soaking in fluid film. The dust shield is prone to rust.
New axle flange, studs, cone washers, nuts and dust cap.
New rims, Black Rhino Kelso in 18x9 -13mm size. I chose these rims just for size because I now can run Ford Tremor F250/F350 size tires (285/75R18), which are narrower than most 35" tires.
I still have the rear axle to replace..last big project.
New dust shield, birfields, axles, and axle spindle. Only the knuckle and hub are original.
I still have to set the inside tabs on the nut retainer.
New locker actuator, diff gasket, studs, washers and nuts. The two very long studs that go through the locker actuator are NA, but you can get slightly longer studs.
The dust shield is now soaking in fluid film. The dust shield is prone to rust.
New axle flange, studs, cone washers, nuts and dust cap.
New rims, Black Rhino Kelso in 18x9 -13mm size. I chose these rims just for size because I now can run Ford Tremor F250/F350 size tires (285/75R18), which are narrower than most 35" tires.
I still have the rear axle to replace..last big project.
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NeverFinis
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Just a FYI.
I did pound on the rotor with a dead blow hammer multiple times while setting the torque to 59 Nm (43 ft lbf) on the inner locking nut. I was surprised at how many additional rotations on the inner locking nut that I was able to get.
I set the final torque on that inner locking nut to 10 Nm (88.8 in lbf), which is almost double what the FSM calls for: 5.4 Nm/48 in lbf.
It gave a bit higher reading, and still within spec, on the fish scale.
I did pound on the rotor with a dead blow hammer multiple times while setting the torque to 59 Nm (43 ft lbf) on the inner locking nut. I was surprised at how many additional rotations on the inner locking nut that I was able to get.
I set the final torque on that inner locking nut to 10 Nm (88.8 in lbf), which is almost double what the FSM calls for: 5.4 Nm/48 in lbf.
It gave a bit higher reading, and still within spec, on the fish scale.
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NeverFinis
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- #155
Pulled the rear axle again. I will be replacing the housing, diff locker actuator, backing plates, hubs, rotors, bearings, seals, etc. The only thing that I will be keeping will be the differential, which has 178K miles on it.
I had to apply heat to the top two locker actuator bolts. They were hard stuck.
I then had to nearly grind the head off to release the pressure from galvanic corrosion.
Once the bolt head was trimmed, the bolt spun right out and threads looked good.
Locker actuator fork, in the unlocked position.
My locker actuator was dead and I needed to move the fork manually to the right in order to pull the axles and differential.
My driver's side axle was a pain to pull. Eventually I had to resort to a BFH. I will be replacing the axles but I was trying to avoid
ing.
This was the worst offender and took the most pounding.
After much searching, the market for new OEM rear axles is horrendous. My passenger side axle is the original, and does not have the spline gap to help with removal in case of twisted splines. I also beat the s*** out of the driver's side axle flange.
The OEM axles, especially the passenger side, are either ungodly expensive, or just not available. That is not a good sign...I could possibly get them from Japan, but then shipping was costly. Aftermarket axles market is almost as bad.
The axle spindle and bearings looked good, despite the bearings having no grease. I guess gear oil kept them both alive...
I tried to do R&R on the rear axle shortly before the was LX450 taken off the road. Those cone washers defeated me last time and I wasn't willing to hammer the s*** out of the axle flange...times have changed.
You don't want to know how much money has been and will be spent on the rear axle.
I had to apply heat to the top two locker actuator bolts. They were hard stuck.
I then had to nearly grind the head off to release the pressure from galvanic corrosion.
Once the bolt head was trimmed, the bolt spun right out and threads looked good.
Locker actuator fork, in the unlocked position.
My locker actuator was dead and I needed to move the fork manually to the right in order to pull the axles and differential.
My driver's side axle was a pain to pull. Eventually I had to resort to a BFH. I will be replacing the axles but I was trying to avoid
ing.This was the worst offender and took the most pounding.
After much searching, the market for new OEM rear axles is horrendous. My passenger side axle is the original, and does not have the spline gap to help with removal in case of twisted splines. I also beat the s*** out of the driver's side axle flange.
The OEM axles, especially the passenger side, are either ungodly expensive, or just not available. That is not a good sign...I could possibly get them from Japan, but then shipping was costly. Aftermarket axles market is almost as bad.
The axle spindle and bearings looked good, despite the bearings having no grease. I guess gear oil kept them both alive...
I tried to do R&R on the rear axle shortly before the was LX450 taken off the road. Those cone washers defeated me last time and I wasn't willing to hammer the s*** out of the axle flange...times have changed.
You don't want to know how much money has been and will be spent on the rear axle.
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What a beautiful build. I love that you are meticulous in your work. Perfectionist. It will sparks many joyous adventures. Please help me with a question. I could not figure where to run the evap hose to. I capped it for now. Feel like that’s a bad idea. Does it run to the ls engine somewhere. Your setup seems nice but too complex for me at the moment. Thanks
NeverFinis
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Rear Axle
NeverFinis
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- #158
Old vs New. I bought new studs, but was one short. PartSouq lists 9 studs but there are 10. I put the missing stud, 9011610075, on the next order.
There is some corrosion on the locker actuator surface on the diff. Toyota only uses a small circular bead of gasket marker, as shown. To prevent further corrosion, I put a skim coat of gasket marker over the entire surface and a little heavier where Toyota wants it.
New locker actuator, new position sensor, and I painted the diff.
New axle under the LX450, except for the missing stud
Slee Locker Actuator Shield
The axle is slowly coming together.
I am waiting on more parking brake parts, hubs and axle shafts.
There is some corrosion on the locker actuator surface on the diff. Toyota only uses a small circular bead of gasket marker, as shown. To prevent further corrosion, I put a skim coat of gasket marker over the entire surface and a little heavier where Toyota wants it.
New locker actuator, new position sensor, and I painted the diff.
New axle under the LX450, except for the missing stud
Slee Locker Actuator Shield
The axle is slowly coming together.
I am waiting on more parking brake parts, hubs and axle shafts.
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #159
The rest of the parking brake parts arrived.
There is a heavier brake shoe spring (fewer but thicker windings), and it is installed first, and on the front shoe. Before this, I had no idea that the two springs were different.
I bought new hubs and RCV axles from @cruiseroutfit They machined the new hubs for the extra and larger dowels needed by the RCV axles. I installed new studs. The ABS ring had to be transferred over.
Toyota's substitution studs, as the originals are NLA, have a shorter shoulder than the originals, but same overall length.
Slowly coming together
I went to install the rear calipers, and I had trouble pushing the piston back on one of them. They were rebuilt calipers installed just months before the truck was taken off the road. The pads looked almost new. Time did them in but they also kind of sucked when I installed them originally. They weren't very high quality to begin with and I suspect they contributed to the poor braking performance.
I could rebuild them but Toyota sells new ones for about $150 each and I building the LX450 to be as new as possible and to be mechanically problem free as possible.
Now I am waiting on the calipers...
Finishing the rear axle is the last big project on the LX450....
There is a heavier brake shoe spring (fewer but thicker windings), and it is installed first, and on the front shoe. Before this, I had no idea that the two springs were different.
I bought new hubs and RCV axles from @cruiseroutfit They machined the new hubs for the extra and larger dowels needed by the RCV axles. I installed new studs. The ABS ring had to be transferred over.
Toyota's substitution studs, as the originals are NLA, have a shorter shoulder than the originals, but same overall length.
Slowly coming together
I went to install the rear calipers, and I had trouble pushing the piston back on one of them. They were rebuilt calipers installed just months before the truck was taken off the road. The pads looked almost new. Time did them in but they also kind of sucked when I installed them originally. They weren't very high quality to begin with and I suspect they contributed to the poor braking performance.
I could rebuild them but Toyota sells new ones for about $150 each and I building the LX450 to be as new as possible and to be mechanically problem free as possible.
Now I am waiting on the calipers...
Finishing the rear axle is the last big project on the LX450....
We've done the 6-dowel hub drilling for years but now it's officially in our retail system as an offering.
