I’m interested in pricing for 6 of the connectors (thinking future use) only if that’s possible.
LX Puddle/Courtesy Lights LED strip upgrade (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter screendoor
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screendoor
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PMs sent!
Flip the mirror adjustment switch out of the center position (either PS or DS) and your side mirrors should tilt down when in reverse. Thats how my 04 LX seems to operate.
Still selling the connectors? I plan to remove my running boards this spring and love the courtesy lights. If I source my own single light on each side, would I need a male-2x female y-connector, or just a male- female? Thanks!
screendoor
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You only need one male connector per side. You could cut off the connector from your old running board and re-use it, or I can send you two male connectors. PM me for details. Thanks!
Just replaced the OEM blue puddle light bulbs with white LEDs. $6 for a 10-pack on Amazon and 5 minutes to simply change the bulbs and our new ‘06 LX 470 is glowing underneath!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07FMV336F?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07FMV336F?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
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screendoor
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@LRscorned looks great!
The rock lights are bright and all, but look at that gorgeous warm glow in the cabin! Makes you want to climb right in.
It is a comfy cabin. Kids actually slept in it the first weekend we took it up to the mountains. We just bought it last week. 203k miles. Interior is immaculate and almost all service was done at the dealer (40k mi gap in service record between 56k-97k)! Only issue was windshield (dealer will replace) and one puddle light was out... hence the new LEDs!
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@screendoor your inbox is full. Do you still have some connectors?
I'm trying to find a solution for courtesy lights on my LX470 ('03). Great write up and videos you have done! My plan is to wire up 6 rock lights as my courtesy lights, so I wanted to see if you still have some of the male and female connectors. I love the fact that it would be plug and play for the ones I plan to put under the OPOR steps I'm getting. I'm still trying to figure out how I can also add a switch to the set up so I can turn the rock lights on with a switch instead of just as courtesy lights. I'm thinking that trying a 3 way switch into the mix is the way to go, but can't get my head around how to wire it exactly. I also wonder if I could just hook up to the connector at the factory running board location, and wire in all 6 lights for courtesy lighting, and then also run the hot side from a switch to the same connection. I don't know if switching on the light would send power back through the factory harness or not, and I don't know whether or not that would be a bad thing. If you have any thoughts please let me know.
Let me know the cost of the connectors and your PayPal and I'll get $ out to you ASAP. Thanks!
I'm trying to find a solution for courtesy lights on my LX470 ('03). Great write up and videos you have done! My plan is to wire up 6 rock lights as my courtesy lights, so I wanted to see if you still have some of the male and female connectors. I love the fact that it would be plug and play for the ones I plan to put under the OPOR steps I'm getting. I'm still trying to figure out how I can also add a switch to the set up so I can turn the rock lights on with a switch instead of just as courtesy lights. I'm thinking that trying a 3 way switch into the mix is the way to go, but can't get my head around how to wire it exactly. I also wonder if I could just hook up to the connector at the factory running board location, and wire in all 6 lights for courtesy lighting, and then also run the hot side from a switch to the same connection. I don't know if switching on the light would send power back through the factory harness or not, and I don't know whether or not that would be a bad thing. If you have any thoughts please let me know.
Let me know the cost of the connectors and your PayPal and I'll get $ out to you ASAP. Thanks!
@screendoor I would be interested in purchasing 2 of the connectors if your still selling them.
I have the same idea, and actually thought of several ways to do it, based on my limited knowledge of electronic circuit.
DISCLAIMER OF LIABILITY:
THE FOLLOWING TEXT AND DIAGRAM IS ONLY TO SHARE THE IDEA. I DO NOT ASSUME ANY RESPONSIBILITY AND EXPRESSLY DISCLAIM ANY LIABILITY FOR ANY USE OF THIS MATERIAL. INFORMATION CONTAINED HEREIN IS BELIEVED TO BE TRUE AND ACCURATE, BUT ALL STATEMENTS OR SUGGESTIONS ARE MADE WITHOUT WARRANTY, EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED, REGARDING ACCURACY OF THE INFORMATION, THE HAZARDS CONNECTED WITH THE USE OF THE MATERIAL OR THE RESULTS TO BE OBTAINED FROM THE USE THEREOF. COMPLIANCE WITH ALL APPLICABLE FEDERAL, STATE AND LOCAL LAWS AND REGULATIONS REMAINS THE RESPONSIBILITY OF THE USER.
One simple way is to use diode in line to prevent the back feeding from the rocker switch to the factory diming circuit. However, no detail on the factory diming circuit, so I gave up this idea, although it seems the most simple one.
The actual method I'm thinking to use on MY car is to use the 5-PIN "Changeover" relay to add the additional switch control to the light.
Depending on if the negative output of the factory connector is grounded, one or two 5-PIN relays is needed.
Option 1: The negative output of the factory connector is grounded.
Basically, the positive input of light is connected to pole 30.
The diming positive output of the factory connector is connected to the 87a of the relay, which is "Normal Close" to maintain the regular diming control to the light.
Pole 86 and 87 is connected to the added switch which connects to positive of battery. When the switch on, it triggers the coil by 86 which in turn disconnect 87a and connect 87. Now the light is powered by positive power from 87.
Option 2: The negative output of the factory connector is NOT grounded
However, the negative output of the factory connector may not be directly grounded, and I may have to use another set of relay to add switch to this line also.
Hope it helps...
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Option2 would be a Guaranteed way to do it... with one "set" of lamps.
Funny.. I'm laying my plans for this too, but thinking of using a less powerful LED lamps for courtesy lights... hooked up directly to the old running board circuit, (Ive always been a little wary of how much wattage/amps the courtesty light circuit is safe for...)
and just run a new switch/power line for a dedicated set of brighter Rock Lights... possible Left/Right AND Front/Rear.
This way I can be sure my new circuit is fully capable of the amps drawn.
Maybe I'm overthinking it?
This might be simpler and easier to do actually
There is Option 3 too:
No need to add anything. Whenever needing the courtesy light to turn on, just open the door ...
The issue with these designs is that the ground switch is PWM. So any mechanical relay will not work as it will actuate rapidly every time it's switched on/off by the ecu. I should say, it will work but will break quickly and could be hazardous.
Thanks for bringing up this possible issue. I'm not a professional and would like to learn more detail.
So I believe what you are saying is that the factory light controller is actually a PWM grounded switch, right? Well my understanding is that it really doesn't matter since the Option 2 we are just using the relay to put a barrier between the factory ECU and the add-on rocker switch, and to switch the power source of the light between the factory controller and the add-on rocker switch.
Here are 3 scenarios I think:
1. Rocker switch is OFF
In this case, nothing is changed and everything should work as factory setting
Nothing should be broken.
2. Rocker switch is ON
In this case, the factory control is isolated (or disconnected), and the light is always on
Nothing should be broken.
3. While the factory control is powering on the light, Rocker switch is turned ON and OFF and/or back and forth
In this case, we turn ON and OFF repeatedly while the factory control is engaged and powering on the light. I believe this case might be the hazardous scenario you refer to?
If we think all the additional relays/switches as a internal component of the light, it just acts as a bad or unstable light to the factory circuit. Well there is possibility that a flapping light may break the ECU or the factory circuit. However, it should be very rare and should really be prevented by the factory circuit.
I see. I didn't look into your diagram too much. That would work, but I believe you would have to run new wires to each light and abandon the factory harness. Or you could possibly find where both hot wires (each side) intersect and tap for the relay there. That would likely be at the fuse if I had to guess.
