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- #521
Builds Lumpskie's Diesel 80 build (1 Viewer)
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I can measure mine when I pull it down to install the new GTurbo, probably about a month away though.
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- #523
Thanks man! In the meantime, do you have any pictures of it? I wonder if there are some distinguishing features that could ID it versus FZJ...
I don't, but I could likely grab you some. Does your truck have the transfer case with or without the Viscous Coupler? The length of the TC varies depending on this, but I thought that would only affect the rear driveshaft length. That's the only variable I can think of.
Maybe it's a different length due to the spool thingamabob that the JDM trucks do not have? Some gizmo that prevents the transmission banging.
Would probably be way cheaper to have one built by a reputable driveline shop, or if they measure the same, pull one from a NA truck and rebuild if necessary.
When I did my swap I had both NA and JDM. The shafts are exactly the same, differing only in legnth (my was changed transmission types)
What's wrong with your current shaft?
When I did my swap I had both NA and JDM. The shafts are exactly the same, differing only in legnth (my was changed transmission types)
What's wrong with your current shaft?
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- #527
I'm pretty sure it has the viscous coupler... 8 assumed that Leit reused the stock case. But I'm not 100% sure...
My current driveshaft makes some noise at higher speed, now that I have the Slinky setup with caster correction. I daily drive my rig so I was trying to just do a straight swap and get a spare at the same time.
Any idea which driveshaft is longer? With 3" lift, I wonder if the longer one would be better...
You can always remove the front shaft and lock the center diff to continue to daily drive in 2wd while you sort out your front shaft.
You are getting to the realm of needing a double cardan joint in the front shaft above 3" with caster correction which could be why your hearing this now. You certain it's not just ujoints?
Has Beno been able to give you two different lengths for the different part numbers?
I can't see a reason they would be different.
Both engines were mated to the same transmissions.
There's a difference if you go from auto to manual trans.
The front t-case output housing doesn't change regardless of VC, part time, or full-time.
I agree, pull the shaft, run in 2wd temporarily with CDL locked, an start with putting in new OEM u-joints
I can't see a reason they would be different.
Both engines were mated to the same transmissions.
There's a difference if you go from auto to manual trans.
The front t-case output housing doesn't change regardless of VC, part time, or full-time.
I agree, pull the shaft, run in 2wd temporarily with CDL locked, an start with putting in new OEM u-joints
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- #530
I agree with you guys... I do believe its u joints. I'm just looking at the new driveshaft because its almost as cheap as having my u joints replaced. $400 for the the new unit versus $150 for new u joints and $200 replacement and balance. Once swapped, I'd have a spare too!
Being that you're lifted high enough that it's a problem, I'd be seriously looking at a custom length driveshaft if I was considering buying a new OEM one. Or double cardon joint, or whatever it is that you need to do to compensate for the changes made by the lift. It would suck to have the same problem shortly after getting a new shaft.
You can do u joints yourself pretty easy with just a vice and basic tools, no rebalancing is necessary. Watch a couple YouTube videos on it.
But if you are willing to fork the cash, i doubt you will have any issues as long as they are from same transmission.
But if you are willing to fork the cash, i doubt you will have any issues as long as they are from same transmission.
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- #533
Good point. I did replace all the u joints on my old Taco. But, it was a real pain, involving both the press as well as a lot of impacts from a 5 lb sledge. A new driveshaft just seemed easier I guess.
I know that @landtank makes DC driveshafts and lives near me. My assumption was that my old u joints were unhappy because they operated at a given angle for 200,000 miles then got changed. Maybe I should confirm my angle at the diff and the tcase before proceeding...
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- #534
@GW Nugget Are you running a DC front Driveshaft?
I bought a cheap Princess Auto (harbor freight, i guess, for you) Ujoint press tool and it worked just fine, no hammer necessary. It was pretty painless really.
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- #536
Spoke with @landtank on the phone and, as usual, he gave me great and practical advise. He agrees with everyone else here and thinks it's probably the U-joints in the driveshaft.
It's funny you mention that tool because I broke that one last time. I ended up needing another tool (Napa brand?) along with some sharp impacts to slowly remove the joint. It was a long (2 days after work, I think) and arduous process because of all the crust in there.
Maybe it will go easier this time.
Thanks again, guys
It's funny you mention that tool because I broke that one last time. I ended up needing another tool (Napa brand?) along with some sharp impacts to slowly remove the joint. It was a long (2 days after work, I think) and arduous process because of all the crust in there.
Maybe it will go easier this time.
Thanks again, guys
US spec front driveline.
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- #538
Thank you sir!
I have a factory unit... no issues. I don't know how many miles are on the U joints.
