Anyone in the Edmonton AB area with fuel Pump tuning skills? (1 Viewer)

[CruiserGord]

Hey Fellow Mudders,

I just installed a Gturbo Badboy and need to adjust the fuel pump settings as it's running pretty sluggish at the moment. I'd do it myself but I'm a bit nervous I'll screw something up and I need to have this old girl running tip top by next Tuesday to head to work in Ft. McMurray.

I'm gonna do some more research and maybe reassure myself that it's not to complex of a job but a veteran hand would be a great asset.

Got lots of beer and other refreshments!

Send me a PM or reply to this post.

Gord

 

[mudgudgeon]

Hook us up with a little plane ride, I'll come and tweak it for you

 

[CruiserGord]

I'd take up your offer if pricing was the same as the Greydog.

 

[Douglas S]

I would ask on the RMLCA mailing list.

 

[cruisedeisel]

First start with a pyrometer. then its rear easy. Its easy as 1,2,3. What kind of truck?

 

[CruiserGord]

Thanks for the info Doug! I'll check them out asap.

Cruisedeisel, it's 1990 HDJ81 with a 1HDT.

I've started playing with the aneroid pin travel and spring tension. I have a portable air tank with a gauge so I can charge it to the Badboy boost spec and then use it on the comoensator diaphragm to dial it in and prevent boost cut out. I think I'm on the right track. Oh! And I have a new pyrometers on the way. The old one stopped working not too long ago.

 

[CruiserGord]

Ok so I've backed the wheel out 40-50 clicks (10 clicks at a time) and then reassembling the compensator with paint on the aneroid. It looks like I might have got it dialed in to track fairly well on the stock pin but not 100% sure. The line created by the pin follows the contour and stops on the flat section but then I see a line on the overboost section. What do you guys think?

 

[CruiserGord]

Ok! So I literally had to back the spring tension nut all the way until the pin stopped hitting the overboost while under 25-27psi. Hopefully this works and I can do the main fuel tweaks when the new pyro gets here in a couple days.

 

[Tapage]

Did you touch the overall fuel screw .. ?

 

[CruiserGord]

Hey Tapage,

I haven't touched the main fuel screw yet. In fact after getting the proper travel set I called it a night as I had to go do some running around and put the kids to bed.

 

[IanB]

Does the truck drive any differently with the boost compensator calibrated to your boost level?

 

[CruiserGord]

Oh most definitely! Haven't really tromped on it yet because my boost gauge is shot and the new one isn't in yet but man what a difference!

 

[IanB]

Can you describe the difference? More responsive off boost? More power under full boost? What changed?

 

[CruiserGord]

I don't have it fully dialed in yet but initial results are significantly better than the old turbo. I can keep pace off the line with the gassers and stepping on it while cruising around 50-60km/hr is instant "Hold the f**k on". I haven't tried for highway speeds yet till I know my exact boost and egt readings but will let you know once I have that all taken care of. I still need to adjust the main fuel screw. Currently I have little or no soot/smoke pumping out when I tromp on it so I may be running a tad lean due to the old fuel settings for the CT26. Might need to adjust the smoke screw on the top of the compensator too to get that little more grunt off the line. lol I hope I'm doing this right.

 

[IanB]

I'm specifically interested in if you calibrating the boost compensator made any noticeable difference. Did you have any before/after observations?

I'm sure the swap to the G-turbo must have made a HUGE difference, lol!

Am I reading it right that you've currently got no boost or EGT gauges? I would make zero fuelling changes until I got that sorted!

 

[mudgudgeon]

I agree with above.
Get gauges sorted before you dial in more fuel with the main fuel screw.
You should be safe tweaking the compensator with the main fuel screw as is as the gturbo will be pumping a stack more air which will keep egt down.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Touching the main fuel screw can very easily cause a smokey idle. Something to be aware of. Try as much as possible to make all your adjustment needed just to the boost compensator.

 

[mudgudgeon]

With gturbo you should have enough air to be able to dial in more fuel with the main screw.
After adjusting the main fuel screw, you will need to adjust the idle speed screw (stop screw on throttle arm), and probably re adjust/fine tune the off boost fuel screw on the compensator.

If tweaking the boost compensator has the OP going "hang the fxxx on!", adding more fuel will probably do the same all over again.

 

[CruiserGord]

Gentlemen,

You are correct, my boost gauge is not working therefore I have not messed with the main fuel screw as of yet. Unfortunately the lazy ass mailman arrived with my new gauges and failed to knock or ring my doorbell so they conveniently left me a pick up slip to go out tomorrow and get the gauges from the post off.

 

[CruiserGord]

IanB,

Calibrating the boost compensator to fully utilise the MAX profile on the aneroid pin made the vehicle more responsive from bottom to top end while city driving. Before I adjusted it, the aneroid was set on the MIN side and only travelled about 1/4" and was already halfway up the profile and spent more time on the flat region at the top of the profile. The gturbo hated that setup and was great at low speed but once you tried to push it at faster speeds it lugged and was virtually unresponsive.