Its part of the 1FZ, so no worries for you
Builds Lumpskie's Diesel 80 build (3 Viewers)
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- Thread starter
- #202
Really!? That's great news! So, as far as cooling bypass goes... should I be good to go? Also, if I replace those hard line underneath, are there any other places in the rear heating system to worry about?
Thanks for the info!
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I'm fairly sure Mr Toyoda blessed us diesel folk with no PHH.
Good reason to own a diesel
PHH is something I asked about after getting my 1st HDJ81 as well, as it was clearly a problem for 80 series owners. It's a problem only the gasser guys have to worry about.
I'm trying to figure out what you did here, when you bypass the rear lines, you don't need the T with the cap, nor do you need the hard line that comes out of the heater valve that splits into 2.So, I had this great plan that I was going to spend the full Labor Day working on my sliders and actually make progress. So, I pulled the catalytic converter heat shield off and got to work. I got the last feet located and tacked together. Once I got the passenger side foot tacked, I tried to pull the bolts out to remove the foot. It turns out that the coolant lines for the rear seat heater were slightly in the way. So, I tried to gently persuade them with a small pry bar... I think everyone knows what happened next. Turns out the hard lines were held together with rust. The moment I tried to apply pressure to move the line, I heard a crunchy sound followed by a pressurized leak sound. Here's the aftermath:
So, I put a pan under the leak and got started on an impromptu rear seat heater bypass. Here's what I came up with:
I made a plug for the coolant line here. (I need to cap off the inlet through the firewall)
I removed the "T" and made a straight shot here:
Is this what you guys typically do for the bypass?
Basically, eliminate both your new Capped T and run that line direct into the heater valve. The output of the heater valve goes through the U and should go directly into the firewall (to heater core). Most people accomplish this with a molded 90 hose.
Its hard to tell from the pic but it looks like one of the rear lines is still hooked up after the valve.
The heater core outlet (on your RHD driver side) that is spliced through is good.
Ditch the rear lines all together, you will find replacing them with the engine/transmission in place is very difficult if not impossible. I find the front HVAC more then sufficient for heating the vehicle on its own. If you insist on having the rear heater, I believe most people route new soft lines down and over the trans to the rear heater.
- Thread starter
- #206
So, I think I'm going to do what you described here. I'm going to remove the rear hard lines all together. In the future, I might replace them with soft line, since it's pretty easy to do.
Also, you mentioned that I had a line hooked up which should be capped. Are you looking at this picture?
What I did is cap off the last outlet of the hard piece, just below the "U" shaped piece. There is another outlet right next to it, which I left intact. I thought that section went to front heat. Is that the right way to do it?
Ahh gotcha, so you capped the second leg of the hard split? That makes sense, if so then you are good to go. Eliminating the hard split and your T will just remove extra failure points.So, I think I'm going to do what you described here. I'm going to remove the rear hard lines all together. In the future, I might replace them with soft line, since it's pretty easy to do.
Also, you mentioned that I had a line hooked up which should be capped. Are you looking at this picture?
What I did is cap off the last outlet of the hard piece, just below the "U" shaped piece. There is another outlet right next to it, which I left intact. I thought that section went to front heat. Is that the right way to do it?
See attached pic for how I was describing the molded 90. Ignore the lines at the top as I have a LHD with a webasto installed, but the section leaving the valve to the U and then into the firewall is the same as yours.
- Thread starter
- #208
Finally, more progress on the sliders. I got the skid plate mounts (L-bracket) cut, located and welded onto the feet of the sliders. The height will give me about a half inch of clearance under my transfercase and the fuel/water separator. I think that will work. Then mocked up and tacked the legs. This was a little more difficult on the Land Cruiser than typical because how the frame narrows. So, I only got the rear two legs tacked. I'll do the front let this coming weekend. Overall, I'm happy with how these are turning out.
You can see where the skids will mount here:
I'm setting these sliders up as steps for when my wife or mom want to ride. So, I kept them flatter than you typically see. But, I didn't put them totally flat and tried to get clearance where I could. In the end, I made the following compromise and I'm happy with it. The outer runner of the slider is a little higher than the inner and is in line with the outside of my tires, laterally.
Hopefully, more progress next week.
You can see where the skids will mount here:
I'm setting these sliders up as steps for when my wife or mom want to ride. So, I kept them flatter than you typically see. But, I didn't put them totally flat and tried to get clearance where I could. In the end, I made the following compromise and I'm happy with it. The outer runner of the slider is a little higher than the inner and is in line with the outside of my tires, laterally.
Hopefully, more progress next week.
- Thread starter
- #209
Sliders are basically done!
Sliders:
You can see the added gussets:
I do have one funky gusset here. I'm betting that it will work but what do you guys think?
You can see what the clearance between the skid (once it's made) and the water/oil separator will be:
What the unfinished setup looked like under the truck for fitment:
So, that's it for now! I can't get nuts up to one of the locations so we're going to add weld-nuts there. Other than that, the sliders are pretty much done! Feedback is welcome! (even though it might be late for some changes)
Sliders:
You can see the added gussets:
I do have one funky gusset here. I'm betting that it will work but what do you guys think?
You can see what the clearance between the skid (once it's made) and the water/oil separator will be:
What the unfinished setup looked like under the truck for fitment:
So, that's it for now! I can't get nuts up to one of the locations so we're going to add weld-nuts there. Other than that, the sliders are pretty much done! Feedback is welcome! (even though it might be late for some changes)
- Thread starter
- #210
No huge progress but I did manage to melt the ARB line for my rear locker. I bought a "Rubicon Express" brand stainless line to replace it... just in case it gets too close to my exhaust again. I'm not familiar with the brand (I'm guessing by the name it's a Jeep focused brand) but I'm hoping it is good quality.
Also, my folks came out to visit for a week. While I showed them around, I grabbed a few random pictures from around New England:
Also, my folks came out to visit for a week. While I showed them around, I grabbed a few random pictures from around New England:
- Thread starter
- #211
Here's what the slider looks like fully bolted up. Looking back, a little more space between the slider and the body would have been nice.
Last weekend, we focused on getting the skid plates going. There are two performance goals for the skids. 1. Protect T-case, trans an other components (duh) 2. Act as a solid member, tying the two sliders together to decrease deflection. To do this, we are using 1/2" aluminum and countersinking the holes so that the fit between the bolt head and hole is tight and transfers torque on the slider base to the opposite side of the vehicle.
Even with our slider design, a flat plate wouldn't clear the t-case. We had to make a cut out:
Then we made a bump out section so that the t-case has 3/4" or so clearance. Top welds are TIG and bottom welds are MIG, courtesy of my buddy Rob. I'm lucky he lets me use his shop but I'm even more lucky he does the welding!
The front skid goes all the way up to the radius arms as you can see here:
Here's how far we got. Both skids are cut, match drilled holes complete, counter sink complete, bump out complete. Need to install weld nuts on the slider side and need to install stiffening beams behind the plate.
Fall Crawl is next weekend and I'm signed up to go on the moderate run. (which means I would be using sliders and skids at my ride height) I'm hoping to get in one short night this week and work Friday night to get these things done. This is going to be close!
Last weekend, we focused on getting the skid plates going. There are two performance goals for the skids. 1. Protect T-case, trans an other components (duh) 2. Act as a solid member, tying the two sliders together to decrease deflection. To do this, we are using 1/2" aluminum and countersinking the holes so that the fit between the bolt head and hole is tight and transfers torque on the slider base to the opposite side of the vehicle.
Even with our slider design, a flat plate wouldn't clear the t-case. We had to make a cut out:
Then we made a bump out section so that the t-case has 3/4" or so clearance. Top welds are TIG and bottom welds are MIG, courtesy of my buddy Rob. I'm lucky he lets me use his shop but I'm even more lucky he does the welding!
The front skid goes all the way up to the radius arms as you can see here:
Here's how far we got. Both skids are cut, match drilled holes complete, counter sink complete, bump out complete. Need to install weld nuts on the slider side and need to install stiffening beams behind the plate.
Fall Crawl is next weekend and I'm signed up to go on the moderate run. (which means I would be using sliders and skids at my ride height) I'm hoping to get in one short night this week and work Friday night to get these things done. This is going to be close!
- Thread starter
- #212
Scored some scrap 8020 at work! I'm hoping to use this to stiffen my skid plates.
Longer sections are 29" and 25". There are 15" and 18" sections there too.
I got a bunch of shorter section of 2x4 and 2x2 as well as some solid half inch.
Thinking of using the longer stuff end to end to span the width of the truck/plate. Then using the shorter stuff to protrude front to back. I'm hoping to run square tube around most of the outside, where it fits. What do you think?
Longer sections are 29" and 25". There are 15" and 18" sections there too.
I got a bunch of shorter section of 2x4 and 2x2 as well as some solid half inch.
Thinking of using the longer stuff end to end to span the width of the truck/plate. Then using the shorter stuff to protrude front to back. I'm hoping to run square tube around most of the outside, where it fits. What do you think?
- Thread starter
- #213
Good news on stiffening the skid plates.
1. I forgot to mention that the stock cross member laterally spans the front skid. I am thinking of using 1/2" solid stock (about an inch wide) to stiffen the longitudinal span.
2. My buddy Rob bought a pneumatic riveter that we can use for the square tube and plate. So, no more welding may be needed.
In other news, we made some progress on the sliders. (really just the driver's side)
1. Gusseted the skid mount
2. Resized holes and welded nuts into slider mount
3. Modified gusset on front leg to lengthen/stiffen it
4. Created a body seam plate. Just in case I hit hard and the slider contacts the body, this plate will spread the load so the body won't bend. I have some adhesive backed rubber that will go on top of this.
5. Added a second plate that ties the front 2 legs together to stiffen the front leg even further. It's welded to the body seam plate, coped on the ends and welded to the two front legs.
Pictures:
1. I forgot to mention that the stock cross member laterally spans the front skid. I am thinking of using 1/2" solid stock (about an inch wide) to stiffen the longitudinal span.
2. My buddy Rob bought a pneumatic riveter that we can use for the square tube and plate. So, no more welding may be needed.
In other news, we made some progress on the sliders. (really just the driver's side)
1. Gusseted the skid mount
2. Resized holes and welded nuts into slider mount
3. Modified gusset on front leg to lengthen/stiffen it
4. Created a body seam plate. Just in case I hit hard and the slider contacts the body, this plate will spread the load so the body won't bend. I have some adhesive backed rubber that will go on top of this.
5. Added a second plate that ties the front 2 legs together to stiffen the front leg even further. It's welded to the body seam plate, coped on the ends and welded to the two front legs.
Pictures:
- Thread starter
- #214
So, last night, I modified the passenger side to match the driver's side.
Here's a close up of the vertical plate below tho body seam plate
Then, this monumental step!
I've got to get 3 more coats on today... and add stiffening to the skid plate... and install. But, I'm hoping to be done tonight so I can go to Fall Crawl tomorrow morning.
Here's a close up of the vertical plate below tho body seam plate
Then, this monumental step!
I've got to get 3 more coats on today... and add stiffening to the skid plate... and install. But, I'm hoping to be done tonight so I can go to Fall Crawl tomorrow morning.
- Thread starter
- #215
Finished the skids last night! (2:30am) Here's the final product:
From the front you can see that we riveted on some stiffening members to protect the transmission:
We used scrap plate to reinforce the rear plate in a lot of places. (Rivets here as well)
We used the stock cross member as a support half way through the front skid actually bolted into it)
You can see the 3 members that we made and installed as well as the stock cross member in the back of the skid:
Sliders on!
Bumper caps removed to initial "Off Road Mode"
From the front you can see that we riveted on some stiffening members to protect the transmission:
We used scrap plate to reinforce the rear plate in a lot of places. (Rivets here as well)
We used the stock cross member as a support half way through the front skid actually bolted into it)
You can see the 3 members that we made and installed as well as the stock cross member in the back of the skid:
Sliders on!
Bumper caps removed to initial "Off Road Mode"
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #216
So, Fall Crawl is complete. I got home today and had a great time. But, running a stock height vehicle through some of the trails took it's toll.
DAMAGE REPORT:
1. Sliders did their job perfectly
2. Skid plate was lightly used but held up great. Could only find 1 scratch
3. Rear bumper hit the ground at least 20 times... ended up a little tweaked on the passenger side
4. Front bumper got beat up pretty bad. First, I accidently bent it on a rock. Then, in a water crossing that came over my hood, it tweaked more... ending up with weeds in the grill as you can see here.
Weeds are everywhere:
I'll post up a trip report as well but wanted to update the build with my first product test. I call it a pass!
DAMAGE REPORT:
1. Sliders did their job perfectly
2. Skid plate was lightly used but held up great. Could only find 1 scratch
3. Rear bumper hit the ground at least 20 times... ended up a little tweaked on the passenger side
4. Front bumper got beat up pretty bad. First, I accidently bent it on a rock. Then, in a water crossing that came over my hood, it tweaked more... ending up with weeds in the grill as you can see here.
Weeds are everywhere:
I'll post up a trip report as well but wanted to update the build with my first product test. I call it a pass!
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
- Thread starter
- #218
FALL CRAWL.
This year was more intense than last year, because the Land Cruiser isn't lifted. We followed the same route as last year with another trail added on, which made for a solid 8 hours of crawling. This year, my buddy Rob, along with his 3 year old son, tagged along. After working for so many hours on my armor, he wanted to see it get used!
We met up in the parking lot. I think 50 rigs or so signed up for the weekend. Because I missed Saturday, I only got to see the Sunday crowd, which was smaller... maybe 25 rigs or so.
From there, we hit the first trail called Devil's Pass. It started out fairly easy, with occasional rock obstacles or mud holes.
The difficulty increase fairly steadily... to the point where I couldn't get out and take many pictures.
But the scenery was beautiful:
After a few hours, we stopped for lunch.
The location was amazing!
This year was more intense than last year, because the Land Cruiser isn't lifted. We followed the same route as last year with another trail added on, which made for a solid 8 hours of crawling. This year, my buddy Rob, along with his 3 year old son, tagged along. After working for so many hours on my armor, he wanted to see it get used!
We met up in the parking lot. I think 50 rigs or so signed up for the weekend. Because I missed Saturday, I only got to see the Sunday crowd, which was smaller... maybe 25 rigs or so.
From there, we hit the first trail called Devil's Pass. It started out fairly easy, with occasional rock obstacles or mud holes.
The difficulty increase fairly steadily... to the point where I couldn't get out and take many pictures.
But the scenery was beautiful:
After a few hours, we stopped for lunch.
The location was amazing!
- Thread starter
- #219
After that, we hit the second trail called "Volkswagen Hill". This was a hard trail. Basically, it was 3 hours of boulder fields with rock ranging from bowling ball size to 4 feet plus. It reminded me a lot of Spring Creek's boulder field at the top. Long story short, I was focused on driving and got no pictures of the hard stuff. You guys will just have to visit to see for yourself.
Here are some rigs that were in my group.
3" lift and 32s... this guy used his sliders and belly a lot. But he did a great job and made it through with no real damage.
4" lift and 35s. He his his stock front bumper but didn't damage it as bad as mine.
1 tons and 40s... he didn't have any issues.
As I posted, I took some damage on my stock bumper while on this trail.
Cool vista at the end of the trail.
Rob and his son getting in my rig picture.
Here are some rigs that were in my group.
3" lift and 32s... this guy used his sliders and belly a lot. But he did a great job and made it through with no real damage.
4" lift and 35s. He his his stock front bumper but didn't damage it as bad as mine.
1 tons and 40s... he didn't have any issues.
As I posted, I took some damage on my stock bumper while on this trail.
Cool vista at the end of the trail.
Rob and his son getting in my rig picture.
- Thread starter
- #220
After that, we hit "The Hills Have Eyes". This trail always has a little spooky feel to it and there are encampments along much of the early trail. There is only one major obstacle and it's a decently hard one. But, I would take an obstacle over a boulder field any day.
JK on 37s took the hard line... the pictures don't do this line justice. The rocks he crawled up are 6 feet tall (think Whale Tail on Chinaman Gulch) but, on the passenger side, there is another loose boulder 4 feet tall that he had to climb over. He walked this without locking. I was amazed.
Tacoma went around the easy line... and I did too.
I can't remember the name of the next trail. But it had a deep water crossing... easily 5' deep. I'll post a video later on. The trail squeezed around the side of a lake. This picture was taken just before the water crossing.
Long story short, I need to wash my rig and check my diffs today. In all, it was an amazingly fun day and I can't wait to get back out. It's been too long since I really wheeled. Videos coming, if I can find any decent ones.
JK on 37s took the hard line... the pictures don't do this line justice. The rocks he crawled up are 6 feet tall (think Whale Tail on Chinaman Gulch) but, on the passenger side, there is another loose boulder 4 feet tall that he had to climb over. He walked this without locking. I was amazed.
Tacoma went around the easy line... and I did too.
I can't remember the name of the next trail. But it had a deep water crossing... easily 5' deep. I'll post a video later on. The trail squeezed around the side of a lake. This picture was taken just before the water crossing.
Long story short, I need to wash my rig and check my diffs today. In all, it was an amazingly fun day and I can't wait to get back out. It's been too long since I really wheeled. Videos coming, if I can find any decent ones.
