Luigi

[65swb45]

The good news is your mpg is going to go up without the extra weight of that sludge!
The bad news is that the sludge had a collateral bebefit of being a sound deadener. Without it, you will almost certainly hear at least one new noise you never heard before, which will leave you wondering if you reinstalled something incorrectly!

Don’t ask me how I know this.

 

[majdomo]

Gotcha.

 

[majdomo]

Plenty of tech this weekend, one last update before heading out for the afternoon. T-case pulled from transmission, HF puller and some hardware store bolts threaded into the case. This is probably not the best way to do it, as I would imagine you can strip out threads if not careful, but this worked out. T-case input seal is replaced, that was basically a plastic chunk that popped out with finger pressure. The unit is on the bench for some more cleaning. The paper gasket between the trans and t-case was brittle and leaking a ton. I will also be replacing the input shaft seal / gasket on the transmission, then putting the whole thing back together over the course of the week. I’ll also try to drop that oil pan and swap out the RMS during the week, if I get some time.

 

[majdomo]

Did some searching but am not finding a definitive answer. Is there a difference between the clutch fork for the 3-finger pressure plate and the diaphragm pressure plate? Looking at possibly getting the flat newer-version flywheel to work with the Aisin kit I have, but will need not just the flywheel but also the TO bearing hub and want to make sure that hub will fit on my 3-finger version fork.

 

[majdomo]

Not a ton of work done today, mostly cleaning and scrubbing gasket surfaces. However did manage to get the rear main seal installed and removed the oil pan. RMS was easy enough once the oil pan was off. I loosened up the bolts holding the #4 crank bearing, let that drop a little bit, then popped out the old seal and installed the new. Torqued the cap back up and all was good. Interesting, the old main seal was pliable and in good shape, but since I had a new one, best to replace.

Visited the machine shop yesterday to drop off the flywheel. Things are progressing, head is in good shape generally but will need new valves. He’s replacing springs, leaving the guides, tanking the block and cutting the bottom and intake / exhaust side to match up to the manifolds, which he also has. Head wasn’t badly warped or cracked, but it was on the outside edge of acceptable in terms of warpage, so best to get it resurfaced. Good progress, will likely get the flywheel back early next week and the head / manifolds back in a couple weeks. Shooting for late Sept to be back on the road, my weekends get busy with football starting next week.

If anyone needs a later-style diaphragm Aisin clutch kit, hit me up. I’m just reusing what I have and leaving the bearing and clutch itself alone. They were in good enough shape that I feel comfortable putting it back in.

I also stopped by SOR yesterday and picked up some bolts for the manifold and the input seal / gasket for the trans. That was a PITA to get out, the old seal was all plastic and brittle, it came apart as I tried to pull the old seal out. Tech tip - the new seal needs a little freezing in order to get into that bore without a huge fight. I left it in there for about half an hour, then pulled it out and sent it home with a seal driver. Using gasket shellac for the paper and cork gaskets this time. We’ll see.

Oil pan came off just fine, but damn whoever was on this engine last loved them some silicone. This peeled right off without complaint, but it still took some time to get it clean and then dimple the pan back to flat.

Check out that tear. This is on the front arch.

Found this on the bottom side of the block. This number doesn’t match the VIN, I didn’t expect it to, but I also don’t know why it’s here.

It also matches a tag that was welded onto the side of the block. Makes me doubt this block was born here. But who knows. Underside and oil pump all look fine.

Waiting for some SnapUps to arrive and then will put the new OEM gasket on. Cleaning up SO MUCH grease and crap from under here, so that if it leaks again, I’ll know it‘s new.

 

[EWheeler]

Not a ton of work done today, mostly cleaning and scrubbing gasket surfaces. However did manage to get the rear main seal installed and removed the oil pan. RMS was easy enough once the oil pan was off. I loosened up the bolts holding the #4 crank bearing, let that drop a little bit, then popped out the old seal and installed the new. Torqued the cap back up and all was good. Interesting, the old main seal was pliable and in good shape, but since I had a new one, best to replace.

Visited the machine shop yesterday to drop off the flywheel. Things are progressing, head is in good shape generally but will need new valves. He’s replacing springs, leaving the guides, tanking the block and cutting the bottom and intake / exhaust side to match up to the manifolds, which he also has. Head wasn’t badly warped or cracked, but it was on the outside edge of acceptable in terms of warpage, so best to get it resurfaced. Good progress, will likely get the flywheel back early next week and the head / manifolds back in a couple weeks. Shooting for late Sept to be back on the road, my weekends get busy with football starting next week.

If anyone needs a later-style diaphragm Aisin clutch kit, hit me up. I’m just reusing what I have and leaving the bearing and clutch itself alone. They were in good enough shape that I feel comfortable putting it back in.

I also stopped by SOR yesterday and picked up some bolts for the manifold and the input seal / gasket for the trans. That was a PITA to get out, the old seal was all plastic and brittle, it came apart as I tried to pull the old seal out. Tech tip - the new seal needs a little freezing in order to get into that bore without a huge fight. I left it in there for about half an hour, then pulled it out and sent it home with a seal driver. Using gasket shellac for the paper and cork gaskets this time. We’ll see.

Oil pan came off just fine, but damn whoever was on this engine last loved them some silicone. This peeled right off without complaint, but it still took some time to get it clean and then dimple the pan back to flat.

View attachment 3098991

Check out that tear. This is on the front arch.

View attachment 3098992

Found this on the bottom side of the block. This number doesn’t match the VIN, I didn’t expect it to, but I also don’t know why it’s here.

View attachment 3098998

It also matches a tag that was welded onto the side of the block. Makes me doubt this block was born here. But who knows. Underside and oil pump all look fine.

Waiting for some SnapUps to arrive and then will put the new OEM gasket on. Cleaning up SO MUCH grease and crap from under here, so that if it leaks again, I’ll know it‘s new.

Looks like some solid progress to me.

 

[majdomo]

Minty fresh. Head coming back in like a week or two.

 

[majdomo]

It's stupid hot in LA this weekend, so braving the heat while trying to make some progress on a long weekend. Snap-Ups arrived on Friday, so was able to install the oil pan and gasket yesterday morning. Gasket went on dry with the exception of the corners and the arch seals, where I used a thin layer of FIPG on each. Had to break early to head over to work, so no photos, but good tech found on the site from 2000, which was very helpful in giving some guidance on how to install.

Today was going to be replacing the pilot bearing and attaching the flywheel, but instead ended up cleaning the transfer case more and mating it back up to the transmission. This was a good thing, since I'm just going to sell that whole kit instead of pieces of it, and reinstall my current parts. All are in really good shape except for the flywheel, which has been resurfaced.

I also did a ton of cleaning inside the bell housing, which was full of crap from the oil leak. You wouldn't want to eat off it, but much better after some degreaser and a ton of paper towels.

That bearing on the back cover of the transfer case was a bear to get back on, but finally figured it out with some pieces out of my bearing install kit and the ball joint press kit.

This is now ready to put back in the truck, we'll see how far I get tomorrow with things. I'd love to have it mated up to the block by eod, which would leave renistalling all the interior bits in the evenings over the next week or so. Once the head is back, will want to make good progress on the engine, really want this transfer case reseal and clutch work done by then.

 

[majdomo]

Didn't get nearly as far as I would have liked today. Flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate are all installed, but that was it. I had put in the previous throwout bearing, but after cleaning up the hub with some brake cleaner, a little of that got into the bearing and it started making a lot of racket and sticking when spinning. I put the fork and bearing in the truck, but just as I was getting ready to move the trans / transfer case, I had a case of the willies about that bearing and yanked it back out.

Parts order went in to Claremont Toyota this afternoon. A bunch of smalls, OEM clamps for all the larger coolant hose connections, an OEM replacement for the hose that popped off the water pump, and an OEM throwout bearing to match the one in the truck. It may put me back half a day, but better than pulling the trans out later when the bearing makes all kinds of noise under load.

Upside was spending most of the day in A/C and studying for the General, which I scheduled for this coming Saturday. 105 out there today, worse in the garage.

 

[majdomo]

...waiting for parts, nothing to see here...got my General ticket yesterday, so that's good. Onward to AE.

 

[majdomo]

Trans is back in the rig, that wasn’t easy but not terrible. Finally ended up driving over to the dealer to pick up the parts this morning, and was able to bust through the reinstall for much of the day.

The hoist was really helpful getting it in the right position, but the final push needed some extra help from these guys:

The longer bolts centered up the input shaft to limit the number of ways it needed to move to line up with the pilot bearing. Note that I didn’t need to cinch it down with the bolts to draw it in - was very helpful to have some bricks on the clutch holding it in while wiggling it a bit to seat up on the bellhousing.

Finished out with reinstalling the parking brake and drive shafts. That pretty much finished out the under-the-truck stuff, everything else is topside.

Head is back from the machine shop, all bagged up and clean. Will get to that probably next week, after finishing out the trans and reinstalling the interior.

 

[majdomo]

Finally getting back after it, had some dental issues to work through but am in a better spot now.

First up, glamour pic of the head as returned from the machine shop. I almost feel bad putting this back on my crusty block. Almost.

And for completeness, the intake that I purchased from Mark a few weeks / 1.5 months back.

Finally got things to the point where I'm able to put the head gasket on, and lo and behold here's what I find. This is (supposedly) an OEM gasket from SOR, but one of the holes doesn't line up with a water jacket outlet. There's a corresponding hole on the underside of the head, as well. Weird.

Some searching on the site brought up this tech discussion from 2019, where a reputable source of information had this to say:

I remember that I went through the gasket process very carefully with the supplier. First he pulled up a computer image that did not have the oval hole for the internal passage. Obviously an F.

Then he pulled up one with the oval. I told him to cross check it with the 2F. It was the same PN so I told him that could not be it either.

So then he found one from another vendor that had the oval that did NOT cross check with the 2F. That is what I ordered.

It will look basically the same as the 2F other than having the smaller bore size. I remember holding a 2F head gasket over it to make sure it was the smaller bore.

I did not compare water jacket holes; in my experience they never match 100%. Not even from the block to the head on a given motor. As noted, some of them were used solely for the purposes of casting.

Hth

@65swb45 always helping, even when you don't mean to. Thanks man.

Assuming this all checks out, I should be able to make solid progress through the weekend, without spending the whole weekend in the garage.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

- are you chasing your FEMALE block ( HEAD BOLTS PORTS ) with a DIE before final assy

- this CALIFORNIA Spec. HEAD looks sharp , good job !


- this may help you out a bit , i will ask @65swb45 / Mark to input here too on the SERSOR UNIONS TOPIC , because you have the secondary special THERMO one with the RED TIP ...... ?

- Remove ALL the Engine Enamel black paint in the RED highlighted areas , this if left in place WILL cause a valve cover rubber gasket leak real fast , if not you frst 100K test miles


- REPLACE these 2 studs for sure .........

- mark knows more on the sensor unions topics and the Thermo Sensors , BUT i do know that the SHORT varity shown with green pre-koted factory sealer installs
in the rear most union location , but in front of the water OUTLET

- Lastly , im looking for a TEST- Pilot of sorts for the LAST IMAGE , its a NON-USA NOS part oem toyota , and ill donate you one in exchange for photos ....

- it will TOWER right over a 2F valve cover / 5/8 hose bib and pipe JIS threads same exact as you have now / NO mods

let me know via PM

thanks matt

 

[majdomo]

More waiting for parts. Have decided to swap out all the head bolts, since the originals were somewhat pitted and all had various levels of rust on the shank and threads. I cleaned them, soaked in Evaporust, then re-blued with some cold bluing, but it just felt better to replace. May have been fine, but then again, would like to avoid future problems and the last thing I need is snapping a head bolt while torqueing it down.

Head is back on the motor, just sitting on top of the head gasket. Having the hoist made it super easy to position about 1/4" above the deck, then used the old head bolts as positioners / keepers for the head gasket before lowering the head all the way down. Note that this was after the bolts were cleaned, re-blued and oiled. Prior even to this, the head bolt bores were doused in brake cleaner, chased with a (clean) old bolt with channels that I'd Dremeled into the threads to push out the gunk, and then stuffed with paper towels to dry out and get clean. Once the new bolts are here, will torque to spec and keep going with reassembly.

 

[65swb45]

Are you available for hire?

Everyone appreciates attention to detail; not as many are willing to pay for it.

 

[majdomo]

Are you available for hire?

Everyone appreciates attention to detail; not as many are willing to pay for it.

The thought has crossed my mind

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Thanks for your willingness to SKUNK-WORKS-TEST-Pilot this any F series engine Accross the board heater Union bib ..

I also , included some MUD KARMA contributions from Erin and I to you and your build , because details matter and matter do details and you have both going on without question , I have learned a few unique things over the course of your build too ….


Kindly
Erin & Matt

 

[majdomo]

Busy weekend, made some good progress. Started with picking up head bolts from the dealer yesterday am. No major complications, just a slight delay trying to figure out how to put the rocker back on the head studs. Trick is to find the slots on the rocker shaft on the supports with no valve cover posts, and lock those two bolts into place before putting it on the head and finding the rest. Need to make sure orientation is correct to line up with the oil passage on the head.

Where I left things today. Lots of reinstallation and cleaning.

Found this blue piece busted when reinstalling the t-stat housing, sucks but what can you do. At least it’s available from the dealer.

Nice finish to a busy weekend.

Sort of unrelated, but we picked up this guy last Sunday. Meet Henry, our durp-y rescue Lab something mix. 6 months old and already a LC fan.

 

[majdomo]

Got through the reassembly throughout the week, and finished it out yesterday afternoon before heading out to the game. Was able to re-time it and start it up this morning, with a sawed-off portion of the old exhaust as a straight pipe - loud as hell but she runs! Timing is still off, however, and it's having trouble staying running when I put it into gear. In looking at the idle control screw tab and comparing it to the spare carb I have off the rig, it looks like the tab on the carb is somewhat bent, which means I can't get it to idle without having the idle mixture cranked way up.

Before, I think I'd just backed the idle mixture screw way out, and it stayed running without issue. However, I had never been able to get it around 650-700 rpm at idle before, and now with all the vacuum leaks solved (in theory), it seems like it's just starving for air. Plan is to pull the carb off the engine, take a look at the tab, and probably tweak it some so that the screw actually makes contact with it and moves the butterflies.

Making 15 inches of vacuum off the booster port at 2200' altitude. Dead cold, pre-start was making an even 137.5 lbs of pressure at 3 and 4. Once it's back timed and running nicely, will re-test.

I was also able to prime the oil pump with a busted-off screwdriver and a drill, watched the oil dribble from the oiling ports on each of the rockers. That was rewarding. Burped the cooling system and found just 1 leak at the t-stat housing, I hadn't tightened the bolts that run through the VSV bracket and through the housing enough.

No photos for tech, apologies. It looks like an assembled 2F minus its air cleaner. However, we did make it down to Luftgekuhlt today, here's a photo of an awesome vintage race car for your viewing pleasure.

 

[majdomo]

Final report - 17 in. HG at 650 rpm here at about 2000' elevation, which I'll take. I haven't done a final warm compression test yet, but will do that once it's back from the muffler shop. Taking it down tomorrow, have my 3rd gen staged close to the shop so I can go directly to work. Found a small leak with the top rad hose, which I cinched down. Tuned it down the street from the house, neighbors weren't happy but got 'er done.

Like it never happened. Noticed that it pulls way stronger now coming up the hill (loudly) than it did before. More checking to come.