Luigi

[ToyotaMatt]

Not all 2f 40s had fold down legs or you would see a lot more of them. You can add them if you can find them .

i have seen them added too ,


i stand corrected ,

@Tancruiser is 100% right here ......

here are the SOR rear JUMP seat bumpers , they are ONLY on NON Flip down legs style

4/78 was the transition date from NO Legs to YES Legs on a 2F platform 40


matt

note: SOR used ONLY 4 TECH reference , no affiliation


JUMP SEAT BUMPER KIT -
Fit 1958-4/78 40 Series -

118-510-KIT

 

[TheHardWay]

Sometimes you have to go to Canada to find them:

 

[majdomo]

Alright - next project up - deal with the rear main seal / cam plug and transfer input leaks under the truck. I've been avoiding this as it looks like a royal PITA to take out the trans and transfer case, but I have a transmission jack (HF for the win!) at the ready and looks like I just need to bite the bullet to get it done. Need to get a puller for the t-case, however.

The while-you're-in-there's:
- Replace clutch disc, pressure plate, pilot and throwout bearings with new Aisin
- Replace RMS with new Timken, OEM is like $60, youch
- Replace t-case input shaft seal (already have this from my t-case seal kit from over the summer)
- Resurface flywheel
- Probably should get some new transmission mounts
- Fresh gear oil for everyone

What else am I missing? I seem to remember there's a paper gasket between the t-case and transmission?

 

[majdomo]

Haven't done the clutch job yet, been busy with my new-to-me 3rd gen and all the hoopla of baselining a new daily.

However... this truck has grown on me in a way that others haven't. I'm more relaxed behind the wheel of this truck than any other vehicle I've had. It's a weird sense of quality, in a very Zen way. Can't go fast, won't go fast. The world must wait. So.

I need a better trans jack before I tackle this clutch job. Any suggestions are welcome.

 

[avicenna110]

When I removed my transmission I held the trans from the top with a crane, with the body off but I think you can still do it with the transmission hump+ roof/sides off.

 

[majdomo]

Wishing everyone a great 4th this weekend!

 

[majdomo]

Been a minute. Gathering parts for the manifold and full exhaust replacement. Bought a great condition '77 Fed spec intake / exhaust manifold from Mark's Off Road @65swb45, an EGR pipe on the way, and block off plate and OEM manifold gasket from SOR.

Strongly considering DDing this for now, while I figure out something else to get (or not...) after selling the 3rd gen I bought back in May. No disrespect, but it's just not the same as a Land Cruiser of any stripe. Plus the community and support can't hold a candle to Mud. Live and learn.

 

[majdomo]

Well sh*t…

Dumped all the coolant while on the freeway, lots of steamy goodness coming from the firewall. Fortunately caught it right after it happened, rolled off the freeway to a side street and called for a tow. Will test compression but cursory check of the dipstick and under the filler cap look fine. Not the best way to start a Friday.

 

[65swb45]

So the hose just slipped off the water pump?

FYI, I had a visit from @HKforte yesterday, and he just had his seats reupholstered locally. They seemed very nice, and he said he’d be glad to share the vendor info with you.

 

[majdomo]

So the hose just slipped off the water pump?

FYI, I had a visit from @HKforte yesterday, and he just had his seats reupholstered locally. They seemed very nice, and he said he’d be glad to share the vendor info with you.

Thank you sir, that would be fantastic! I'll reach out to him, appreciate it.

Looks like that's exactly what happened. These clamps are rolled edge stainless from McMaster-Carr but I've had a couple problems with them getting loose. Hoping tractor motors are tough to kill

 

[majdomo]

Compression test, wet (ATF) but cold at WOT:
1 - 140
2 - 125
3 - 120
4 - 105
5 - 120
6 - 125

Will do more research but that #4 doesn’t bode well. There was some bubbling at the seam between the head and block at 3 / 4 right after I pulled over. I was going to have to tear down most of this anyway to get to the intake / exhaust, this just feels like an extension of that.

Plugs looked great at least.

sucks.

 

[65swb45]

Compression test, wet (ATF) but cold at WOT:
1 - 140
2 - 125
3 - 120
4 - 105
5 - 120
6 - 125

Will do more research but that #4 doesn’t bode well. There was some bubbling at the seam between the head and block at 3 / 4 right after I pulled over. I was going to have to tear down most of this anyway to get to the intake / exhaust, this just feels like an extension of that.

Plugs looked great at least.

sucks.

A lot of people don’t stop to think and check, and disassemble a head with an air impact. Use a torque wrench on the head bolts when you take it apart, and pay particular attention to that ONE HEAD BOLT IN THE MIDDLE…between 3&4.

 

[majdomo]

A lot of people don’t stop to think and check, and disassemble a head with an air impact. Use a torque wrench on the head bolts when you take it apart, and pay particular attention to that ONE HEAD BOLT IN THE MIDDLE…between 3&4.

Thanks Mark. Agreed, I don’t approach head bolts with an impact of any kind. Any machine shop recommendations would be great, no sense in pulling it all apart and not having the head refreshed.

Is the 3 / 4 head bolt problematic or just easy to miss / mess up?

 

[65swb45]

I would just be curious to know if it lost torque.

As far as machine shops, I trust no one to do an engine block, but virtually anyone to do a cylinder head. Don’t let anyone talk you into hardened seats.

 

[majdomo]

I would just be curious to know if it lost torque.

As far as machine shops, I trust no one to do an engine block, but virtually anyone to do a cylinder head. Don’t let anyone talk you into hardened seats.

Good deal, many thanks. There’s Pioneer in Glendale, who I’ve used in the past for simple stuff, may give them a call. Bimmerheads would do it too, they are great, but Santa Clarita, ugh. I need to take my BMW M10 block to them, that was my plan for the fall / winter until this am. Package deal, maybe?

 

[Spike Strip]

Martin Davidson Automotive machine shop. Reseda. They are K&H's machine shop. Used to do MAFs when they were in Simi V.

They used to have a nice website, but looks like they let the rent on it lapse: http://www.martindavidsonsautomotivemachine.com/

Martin Davidson's Automotive Machine Shop - Reseda, CA

11 reviews of Martin Davidson's Automotive Machine Shop "I went to Martin on the recommendation of a Local Land Cruiser repair specialist (Richard at K&H in the SFV). Martin rebuilt my 2F Land Cruiser FJ60 engine to Hi-Po spec and it's wonderful. He even "fixed" some previous head work I had...

www.yelp.com

 

[majdomo]

Martin Davidson Automotive machine shop. Reseda. They are K&H's machine shop. Used to do MAFs when they were in Simi V.

They used to have a nice website, but looks like they let the rent on it lapse: http://www.martindavidsonsautomotivemachine.com/

Martin Davidson's Automotive Machine Shop - Reseda, CA

11 reviews of Martin Davidson's Automotive Machine Shop "I went to Martin on the recommendation of a Local Land Cruiser repair specialist (Richard at K&H in the SFV). Martin rebuilt my 2F Land Cruiser FJ60 engine to Hi-Po spec and it's wonderful. He even "fixed" some previous head work I had...

www.yelp.com

Awesome, thank you! Always want to support good shops who specialize in keeping our rigs on the road, will give them a shout.

Edit - just a moment of appreciation for this community, the collective knowledge and willingness to help!

 

[majdomo]

Digging right in. Marking vacuum lines.

General view of where I left things, after bagging and tagging.

Is that a crack or a fault line? Geez. Hosed all bolts so far with plenty of PB to sit overnight and probably longer.

 

[majdomo]

Tear down continues, some good progress each night. Following Rob Siegel’s maxim of making a little bit of progress every day, even if it’s just removing 1 bolt or ordering a part. I really don’t want this to sit for too long.

Here’s the CA manifold. Oh man.

Look at that crack…

Closer up. I doubt this is repairable but can ask. Of course that heat spring-actuated door is welded in place, not sure if it’s open or closed. I would bet closed given the size of this crack.

So… had it not been for last week’s debacle, I’d be halfway done. Instead, tear down continues through the weekend to yank the head. How it goes, I guess.

 

[majdomo]

Question for the group - am considering pulling the whole engine / trans / t-case combo so that I can replace the RMS and clutch, and have the flywheel resurfaced. Are there good attachment points on the block so you can pull the short block with trans / t-case attached, or is the best way to just leave the head and use the lift hooks, set the whole thing down somewhere and pull / reinstall the head outside the rig?

Head is still on, but if the best way to go is to pull with head attached, don't want to go a whole lot further until I get a hoist and prep a landing spot for the engine.