Low mile case study, 24K 07LC (2025)

[2001LC]

How many saw the Thunder Cloud, 24K miles 2007 Land Cruiser, on BAT. Winning bid of $62,500 Dec 22 2024. WOW!
The lowest miles I've seen on BAT or every had my hands on.

Here's someone else post on their 2006 21K miles, engine blowing up

Disaster strikes

forum.ih8mud.com

Here's a 2003 37K miles, just had some services. You's not expect for the miles.

37k mile 2003 LX 470

Last month we bought this beautiful low mileage LX 470. It has about 37,000 miles on the clock and is generally in very good condition. The guys at Tandem Offroad in Fort Worth did the PPI and posted a really cool TikTok about it. We just got it back with its new tires and a few repairs...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[2001LC]

First let me says. We, can do a lot with any mileage 100 series, to bring back to factory spec. But we can't change mileage.

Very low miles, is often as close to showroom fresh, look and smells as we can get. But it doesn't means they're without issues.

I use Toyota & Lexus owners web portal for service history. Also, Carfax for accident and state registration & inspection location rust flags and emission flags. Carfax also will show us, all reporting service location. So we see, if other than Dealership serviced and where. In some cases. I may even call some location, that have serviced. Seller supplied service info when we can get, is one more tool for clues.

What I look for in remote or pre PPI:

First, region of operation or stored in.
Second, what recommended PM services done or not and their interval. I.e. OF&L & coolant for both miles and time interval. Air filter, wheel bearing, timing belt, ATF, ect.
Third, for red flags:

• Region of operation (or stored in).
• Accidents.
• Windshield R&R and any issue after.
• Starter.
• Spark plugs.
• Coolant issue.
• Electrical.
• DTC (CEL, codes).
• Any service outside of normal recommended PM.

They are made to be driven!

With very low miles, we often find issue. Today, one could call even a 2007 w/120K miles a low mile.

A 2007 w/24k miles, is ultra low mile. Really, not even broken in fully.

Low mile doesn't mean you'll get a vehicle needing nothing. Low mile often means parked for long periods, say a vacation home. Or can be DD driven max of 45 MPH ,1/2 miles between warm up and cool down. The service history and carfax can give us clues here, along with seller statements.


How driven, store and care for. All can make a big difference and yields clues. Of what we may need to look for.

Short trip daily:

• Muffler rust.
• CAT & O2 issues.
• Spark plugs walking out, at lower mileage.

Parked for extended periods, issues vary depends on where parked and for how long sat idle.
Garaged months at a time, like in a vacation home:

• Fuel issue, such as. Fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulators, fuel tank internal rust.
• Seal issues. Shock, hydraulic RAMS, globes, R&P, etc.
• Tire issues. Flat spots.
• Battery issues.

Parked outside issues to paint, body, plastic, rubber, undercarriage from.

• Sun.
• Sap.
• Bird.
• Weather related.
• Water.
• Rust
• Wildlife damage.
• Vegetation growth.
• etc..

In this 24K miles 2007. Story given was: Pride & joy show car. Driven on HWY. Round trip 20 miles to church, with a few other trips. Had other vehicles, used for daily drivers. No high water, no dirty roads.

Vehicle service history and carfax support milage use statement. For first 16 years, then use miles drop off. Subsequent statements indicate health issue, prevented driving much if at all last year or so. Parked in a car port.

Service history did have a few red flags:
Oil & fitter interval long then 1 year, at 4 to 5 year. This would be as maintenance light came on, each 5k miles.
No coolant flush in service history.
No Time belt in history.
DTC of RR wheel speed sensor, cleared did not come back.
Fail emission test, pass a few days later.
ABS lights and alarms, coming and going. Note: Mechanic stated needs driven more.

Pictures in BAT, most very good. But some of undercarriage glare made impossible to see if rust issue. Asked for more pictures, due to rust concerns. That glare in some may have hidden. No more pictures given. Reson: Not enough time to get pictures, due to time and distance before end of bidding.

Some of the answer from question in the 86 Comments in BAT:

2007lc4sale (The Seller)
Thank you again. The engine cover is not scratched up. There was some oil spilled during an oil change and it was never cleaned by the dealer

2007lc4sale (The Seller)
To all that are concerned about the ABS lights, they are not on all of the time. They are intermittent and the frequency decreases the more I drive it. Last week I picked it up and drove it to Baton Rouge and back to the owners house and it only went off twice

2007lc4sale (The Seller)
All of the paint is original. No touchups anywhere. All electronics work on this Land Cruiser. No slow response in any of the electronics. Stereo and speakers work well also. I don’t have a video of the rear camera but there should be a picture listed.

2007lc4sale (The Seller)
Thank you all for your comments and questions about the ABS system. I can only offer the solution provided by 2 mechanics that it needs to be driven more often.

2007lc4sale (The Seller)
Thank you for your question.

2007lc4sale (The Seller)
This has been strictly a road driven vehicle, mostly highway miles. My parents do live in the country but all of the roads are paved. It’s never been off-roading and it has never been in any floodwater or high standing water.

2007lc4sale (The Seller) This author's likes: 22

Good morning all. Thank you all for the support and wonderful complements and comments. Yes, this is a vehicle that has never seen salty roads. It has never towed anything. My parents never smoked and it has never been smoked in. It occasionally gives off a new car smell. My Mother took very good care of this Land Cruiser and was very proud to own it.

______________________
Winning bidder:
Pepperbeard

Thank you for listing this beautiful landcruiser. A few questions:

1. I see it lived (reported service area) in path of hurricanes, and there were reports of floods during its life there. Was it ever in deep water (driven or parked)?
2. What was your mom’s (or other drivers’s) habits and was it driven at highway speed? For example, was it just driven a lot of very short trips, and a few longer drives?
3. Did bump (paint mare) on rear bumper, push upper bumper metal support, into body/paint?
4. Any records of coolant flush? At the required 10-year, 5-year interval thereafter?

Thank you.

2007lc4sale (The Seller)
Thank you for your questions.
Answers per number:

1. Yes we do live in the path of hurricanes. This vehicle has been in Hurricanes Gustov (2008) and Ida (2021). It suffered no damage from these storms. My parents live on high land and have never flooded. This Land Cruiser has never driven in any flood water nor muddy conditions.

2. My mother lives in the country about 40 miles away from Baton Rouge. She would also drive to church which is about 20 miles away. Most of the driving was on the Interstate.

3. The damage on the passenger rear bumper does not appear to show any metal or support damage.

4. I am not sure about the coolant flush. I do not have those records. I know it was brought in to the dealership for routine maintenance and later a local mechanic for maintenance and tires.

Pepperbeard This author's likes: 5

Thank you for your answers.
Sorry for the late follow ups: 1. Does the water temperature gauge, stays cool at 4 o’clock, or goes higher?
2. Can you send a picture of the water gauge, after engine warm up (5 min drive or 15 min idling)?
3. Picture of reservoir (from side showing low line) engine cold and after warm up?
4. Pictures (flash on) of frontend undercarriage, clear without back ground light making impossible to see clearly.
Thank you.

2007lc4sale (The Seller) This author's likes: 22

@Pepperbeard
Thank you for your questions. I live 1 hour away from my parents an and will not be able to submit the pictures before the auction closes.
_________________________

So seem to be virgin, as far as few hands every touched for much more than OF&L. Just how I like them. As so much of restore work I do, is correcting what other hands have touched.

 

[2001LC]

Surprize, not a virgin

She did not reveal, in service history. Hands have touched this beauty. Touch her, in inappropriate ways. So it does make discerning, what was low miles, prolong periods parked or environment related more difficult.

Improper servicing, is one of the main reasons all used vehicles should be baselined. So much of what I do, to restore 100 series. Is due to issues created during service or lack at the proper interval (mile or time). We see so often from buyers, wanting to see long service history. But many fail to actually drill into the what, why and when. The details and by whom, are important.

Best I can tell from all info and statements. One key statements, almost too good to believe. "A pride & joy, used to show off. Never on dirt roads, used to go to church 20 HWY miles and trips to Baton Rouge 40 miles away."

This would make the perfect low mileage vehicle. You just can't ask for better than HWY miles ever time started. Once week is keeps miles low and but just enough driving to exercise regularly. But, there are some holes in the story. Likely, it was as stated. Up until about March 2020 (pandemic shut down). We've also learn, the owner (sellers mother) had a medical issue. That result in her inability to drive. Bottom line, it was close to the perfect low mile. Had it been purchased 5 years ago, may have been they perfect low mile.

I've seen low miles (45K to 80K miles), that needed so much more than this one.

So perhaps not the best, study of ultra low mile. But it was parked for some prolonged periods, over last 5 years.

Most all vehicles, used for routine driving (church, trips to town, etc.). Were parked for prolonged periods during covid. Then sometime between covid shut down and restriction easied. This one, was likely only driven some between late 2020 & late 2022. Then parked and just sat after medical issue. Emission sticker expired Jan 2023. So likely stop driving and park, then or before.

Then between April & Sept., 2024 we saw some indications of service. Seems no hurry to get into shop, as in two week before out just to check codes and R&R antenna mast.

I'll cover all service I've done later in this thread, in detail. I'll point to what I felt due to not being driven, age related, environmental related and improper service.

ABS issue, was contributed to needing to be driven more. Antenna mast can be bend or busted metal (car wash), but very often the plastic cords break (time & usage).

The ABS DTC, can be from low voltage. Which when parked prolong periods, does happen often. So seems late April 2024, is when someone drove. Next 8 months (May 2024 to January 2025) it was driven only ~150 miles.

So would seem first ~13 years driven regularly, then sat intermittently last 4 or 5 years. With last two mostly parked. Story was; in covered car parking (not garaged).

With any 100 series parked for prolonged periods, I look for fuel related issues.

I found, what I feel, were related to parked for prolonged periods:

• Fuel pressure regulator (FPR), weak. Pressure going over max of 44PSI. PSI climbing, as the voltage increased. Static test FAIL: 43.9PSI at 11.8Volt - 46PSI at 13V.
• Steering wheel tele motor, in op. These is common for lack of use. But by exercising it, it did come back to full function.
• Battery issue. Battery was replaced, but even the new weaken (sulfated). Indicating not being keep fully charged. Very common if just sets month at a time.
• Some seals, likely prolong parked related contributing factor.

Questionable, as to how much related to parked for prolonged periods

• ABS alarms. Here I'm correct a few issue. But not sure if totally cleared up yet. More to follow.
• Brake rotor disk issue. This falls into a few categories. I suspect issue (runout and parallelism) one caused by rust build up on rotor disk, from sitting prolonged period.
• Shock leak.
• Some seals.
• Cylinder walls minor dark patches.

What wasn't and issue, that I was surprised with. Which we see so often in vacation home low miles:

1. Fuel injectors. Surprisingly, were perfect in everyway. A testament to Denso, not often seen in 4.7L when engine sit. They usually go hand and hand with FPR.

Other concern on this one, due to not being driven more:

1. The Oil & filter service interval. Records, show 4 to 5 year interval. Which track well with mileage. Maintenance light, comes on at 5K miles. But oil should be replaced annually. I wish, light had a 1 yr alert. Had it been driven more likely, oil changed sooner. Was there oil related damage, tough call. But it's a 4.7L they are tanks, and oil pressure looks good. So it should be just fine. More on this later.
2. Wildlife. Got lucky here, in not have rodents nest with a tons of chewed wires! But some wildlife was nesting. Some spooked me and some areas still a concern. More on this later.

Areas of environmental concerns:

• Foam rubber, was/is disintegrating like sand, when touched. Big surprise and a bit of a revelation. This would have nothing to due with being parked for prolonged periods. It would have to be Environmental and may indicate not garage kept. It not what we see in my region (Colo). So was not expected at all by me.
• Humidity & salt water. More on this later. But really not to bad in most areas.

Improper PM, Hands that touch (service), not reading/following owners manual (OM) "Do Not OVERFILL Fuel Tank":

1. These turned out to be the biggest surprise and issue to correct. Not all what I thought I'd find at 24K miles and based on history at Toyota & carfax and seller statement & pictures.
2. Wheel bearing shot.
3. Contamination under hub flange grease cap.
4. Axle snap ring groove damage, of FDS.
5. Hub flange and hub damage
6. A/T fluid over filled 1 1/2 qt.
7. Battery acid damage.
8. Rotora excessively machined down.
9. ABS issue.
10. Plastic clips
11. Under carriage bolts and hatches
12. Tire/wh balance.
13. Wheel lugs.
14. Charcoal Canister.
15. Propeller shaft & spider lube.
16. Oil in engine to long.

Age related. Just time, we get issue:

• Some rubber. Environment plays a roll here. But for the most part, this one's rubber looks good. i.e. bushing, water hoses, drivetrain seals and window & door seals. For the most part. But did find some seal issues, that surprised me.

This is the near perfect low miles.

 

[ace10]

There was that super shady theft-recovery 100 from a few years back. IIRC, it was located in an underground garage.

IMO, the 100 is too modern of a vehicle to tolerate low to zero usage. Especially if it's not being well cared for.
I do have an ultra low mile 1st Gen Taco in storage and it's doing fine, but it's a relatively simple vehicle compared to a hundy. And receives regular service, despite not being driven.

 

[Manhattan]

it's all relative. 24,000 miles for an '07 Land Cruiser is seen as new. The same miles on an '07 GT40 or similar supercar would be seen as high miles and hurt the value. Also, "how" the miles were accumulated matters. If that truck racked up all the miles in year-one then sat for the next 17 years, maybe it'd have some issues... maybe. But if it saw a mix of local and highway, evenly over its life, I'd expect it be a different story. Well, except the heater-Ts - they're likely dust either way

 

[Rhetoric]

Thanks for documenting this!

Based on those pics, the undercarriage of my 07 LX with 220k miles (when I bought it) was far cleaner than this low mile specimen. Not a spec of rust or aluminum corrosion as seen on the transfer case of this vehicle. I was in awe, frankly.

It's neat to see those low miles. But I'd rather have something that was driven and maintained. The worst thing you can do to a vehicle is not drive it. I'd expect to put more $$$ into a truck like this initially than something that's being used often.

 

[Kabanstva]

Oh wow. What a beauty

 

[rexington14]

Definitely interested to see what @2001LC discovers. While this truck has pretty low mileage it doesn't appear that it sat unused for years at a time. The CarFax report from the auction listing shows that the 24k miles on this truck were spread out fairly evenly over the past 18 years.

 

[Zuberg]

Definitely following along. I've seen you dropping some info here and there in different threads, fuel trims, charcoal canister/overfilling issue, rough idle at certain RPMs, etc. Interested to see what you find out and proper fixes.

 

[2001LC]

There was that super shady theft-recovery 100 from a few years back. IIRC, it was located in an underground garage.

IMO, the 100 is too modern of a vehicle to tolerate low to zero usage. Especially if it's not being well cared for.
I do have an ultra low mile 1st Gen Taco in storage and it's doing fine, but it's a relatively simple vehicle compared to a hundy. And receives regular service, despite not being driven.

Yeah, ~2018. I talked to the seller. 2001 IIRC, w/1K miles. He wanted $80k.

They do need proper care. I've purchase and had some come my way for inspection and corrective service. Some in top condition, and others a mess. All have hads their needs.

it's all relative. 24,000 miles for an '07 Land Cruiser is seen as new. The same miles on an '07 GT40 or similar supercar would be seen as high miles and hurt the value. Also, "how" the miles were accumulated matters. If that truck racked up all the miles in year-one then sat for the next 17 years, maybe it'd have some issues... maybe. But if it saw a mix of local and highway, evenly over its life, I'd expect it be a different story. Well, except the heater-Ts - they're likely dust either way

Story on this one w/24k miles. Was near as perfect, for an ultra low mile as one could ask for. I had my doubts, because to good a story.

See post #2, I've been updating: "Used to drive Gulf ~40 miles and church ~20 miles on HWY (no dirt roads or short slow drives noted). Could you ask for better miles.

At minimum 20 miles a week on HWY. WOW!

Thanks for documenting this!

Based on those pics, the undercarriage of my 07 LX with 220k miles (when I bought it) was far cleaner than this low mile specimen. Not a spec of rust or aluminum corrosion as seen on the transfer case of this vehicle. I was in awe, frankly.

It's neat to see those low miles. But I'd rather have something that was driven and maintained. The worst thing you can do to a vehicle is not drive it. I'd expect to put more $$$ into a truck like this initially than something that's being used often.

I had, ask for more pic, as was unclear as to how much rust. I felt picture were a bit to selective, in not revealing.

It's not bad, kind of spotty rust & crud. Some areas showroom fresh others bit nasty, but should clean up nice if time put into the spoty areas.

Rusty crusty spots. Likely had to do with driving on gulf HWY, possible beach. Then as most, undercarriege not washed. Also where parked at home. It also had some battery acid an wildlife induced issues.

Oh wow. What a beauty

It is very sweet. Just needs some TLC.

Definitely interested to see what @2001LC discovers. While this truck has pretty low mileage it doesn't appear that it sat unused for years at a time. The CarFax report from the auction listing shows that the 24k miles on this truck were spread out fairly evenly over the past 18 years.

You are correct.

Definitely following along. I've seen you dropping some info here and there in different threads, fuel trims, charcoal canister/overfilling issue, rough idle at certain RPMs, etc. Interested to see what you find out and proper fixes.

Yep!

Been baselining, for nearly 3 weeks now, and just finishing up as much as I can for now. Going to pull out of shop and go for test drive in just a few minutes.

I had my share of surprises. I took this on, only a special case. Since, well, I do like virgins.

But turned out it was not a virgin!

Hands, other than service history indicted touched it. In ways, it should have been touched. I've know idea as to why, in some areas. As in most cases should not have been needed and or was not due. It became a big project to correct!

It's also apparent. PO did not read the OM, which most people don't. Resulting in damage to Charcoal Canister. I'll bet, it did not run well for years.

I also pick up one more clue, as to why the S.A.I. filter fail. Seems the Lexus GX recall TSB. Which suggested, humidity may play a role, in filters S.A.I. recall. Was correct, at least in part.

 

[ace10]

It's also apparent. PO did not read the OM, which most people don't. Resulting in damage to Charcoal Canister. I'll bet it not run well for years.

The rig never got driven, yet the owner was compulsively topping the tank up past Full. Good grief.

 

[TRLBOSS]

7100 miles: 1998 Toyota Land Cruiser - ~7,100 Miles, 1 Owner, V8 Power, 4WD, California-Owned, Unmodified - https://carsandbids.com/auctions/3BBwo5pb/1998-toyota-land-cruiser?utm_source=pd&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=n

With something sitting that much, I'd worry about rodents chewing up wires.

Can't wait to see what you find out.

 

[MongooseGA]

It's beautiful inside. The chassis isn't bad but IDK if it's as pristine below as the mileage or price would imply.

I always tell people the mileage isn't really a factor in these so much as the maintenance.

 

[97 AZ LC]

It's beautiful inside. The chassis isn't bad but IDK if it's as pristine below as the mileage or price would imply.

I always tell people the mileage isn't really a factor in these so much as the maintenance.

Isn't a factor in what? Mileage may not be so much a factor in future maintenance cost or even reliability, but it's still a big factor in market value. No matter how many times you tell people to not worry about mileage the market knows that mileage matters when it comes time to sell, hence the eternal willingness to pay more for lower miles.

 

[MongooseGA]

Isn't a factor in what? Mileage may not be so much a factor in future maintenance cost or even reliability, but it's still a big factor in market value. No matter how many times you tell people to not worry about mileage the market knows that mileage matters when it comes time to sell, hence the eternal willingness to pay more for lower miles.

Are you suggesting that the market value being higher on a lower mileage vehicle vs a higher mileage vehicle is a de facto representation of which car may actually be better?

Of course the market gives more value to lower mileage. That doesn't have anything to do with what will make for a well sorted car. The market is also full of ignorance. Apples to apples, sure, anyone would pick a vehicle with lower mileage. But hypothetically, a 24k mile truck at $62k that may have sat unused for years isn't objectively better than a 100k mile truck at $10k with all maintenence and repairs having been completed.

When I say don't worry about the mileage, it's usually in response to "I want a 100 but I can't afford one with less than 100k on it". OK, buy one you can afford and don't let the mileage be the deciding factor in this case. It isn't what's going to make or break the truck. Another logical similarity would be paying $10k more for factory locked 80 when compared to an identical open diff truck when you can add the locker for a fraction of the premium.

 

[2001LC]

I posted/Edit more, in post #3. Be sure to check.

The rig never got driven, yet the owner was compulsively topping the tank up past Full. Good grief.

Seems so. At least, seem likely did very early.

Over filling, made no difference pre 2003 100 series. But a big deal thereafter.

We can also flood CC, even when properly filling tank:

Fill than park, without drive a mile or so on a hot day. Cold fuel from ground tanks, expand sitting over hot pavement.
Or
Ascending a rock road hill (more a high altitude issues).

This CC was very bad. So seems overfilled, was done and done very often in it's est. ~80 fill ups.

7100 miles: 1998 Toyota Land Cruiser - ~7,100 Miles, 1 Owner, V8 Power, 4WD, California-Owned, Unmodified - https://carsandbids.com/auctions/3BBwo5pb/1998-toyota-land-cruiser?utm_source=pd&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=n

With something sitting that much, I'd worry about rodents chewing up wires.

Can't wait to see what you find out.

Seems got lucky, on this one. Found and caught one mouse, that must have hitch a ride in transport. So far, I only found minor chew damage. Intake manifold gasket.

It's just the rubber that hold the individual port gaskets on a string.

It's beautiful inside. The chassis isn't bad but IDK if it's as pristine below as the mileage or price would imply.

I always tell people the mileage isn't really a factor in these so much as the maintenance.

Chassis, is spotty. Likely, driven in puddles of salt water, on road at/near Gulf. Some may have been from, drive rain, where parked. Undercarriage likely, as most, near washed.

Headlight plastic foggy. Likely where parked caused.

We had ask for more pictures. It wasn't properly disclosed IMHO. I felt selectively held back pictures.

But really not to bad.

Isn't a factor in what? Mileage may not be so much a factor in future maintenance cost or even reliability, but it's still a big factor in market value. No matter how many times you tell people to not worry about mileage the market knows that mileage matters when it comes time to sell, hence the eternal willingness to pay more for lower miles.

I've seen some low mile. I not touch.

But, yes and no IMHO. As use does have it effect, and many thing in PM are mile related. But I can correct most all use/mile related, as I can improper service.

But for sure, low miles has more value in the market.

Are you suggesting that the market value being higher on a lower mileage vehicle vs a higher mileage vehicle is a de facto representation of which car may actually be better?

Of course the market gives more value to lower mileage. That doesn't have anything to do with what will make for a well sorted car. The market is also full of ignorance. Apples to apples, sure, anyone would pick a vehicle with lower mileage. But hypothetically, a 24k mile truck at $62k that may have sat unused for years isn't objectively better than a 100k mile truck at $10k with all maintenence and repairs having been completed.

When I say don't worry about the mileage, it's usually in response to "I want a 100 but I can't afford one with less than 100k on it". OK, buy one you can afford and don't let the mileage be the deciding factor in this case. It isn't what's going to make or break the truck. Another logical similarity would be paying $10k more for factory locked 80 when compared to an identical open diff truck when you can add the locker for a fraction of the premium.

I've four LX470 now. In various stages phases of restore. One 03LX, one 06LX and two-07LX, ranging from 145K to 320K miles. I'd put anyone of them up against this ultra low miles. In reliability, ride and in some even clean chassis when it first came to me. One I'd say cleaner. But none, would ever fetch $62,500 + of a low mile.

Miles matter.

 

[2001LC]

ABS Alarms!

The first mention of any brake issue. Seems was in 3/1821 at 20K, from Toyota Dealership note, found in history:
"3/18/21 SERVICE TYPE Dealer MILEAGE 20129 SERVICES NO PROBLEM EVIDENT AT THIS TIME. VEHICLE IS CURRENTLY OPERATING TO MANUFACTURER'S SPECIFICATIONS.~|~ ~|~ ~|~20129 UPON TECH GETTING VEHICLE DID NOTFIND BRAKE LIGHT OR TRAC LIGHT ON, TEST DROVEVEHICLE AND NO LIGHTS CAME ON. INSPECTEDCODES IN SYSTEM AND FOUND A CODE FOR THERIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR BUT CODE NOTCURRENT. TEST DROVE VEHICLE AGAIN AND FOUNDALL, NO PROBLEM EVIDENT AT THIS TIME. VEHICLE IS CURRENTLY OPERATING TO MANUFACTURER'S SPECIFICATIONS., CUSTOMER STATES, WINDSHIELD WIPER BLADES (TCMC) - REPLACE, OIL AND FILTER CHANGE"

I'll start with the ABS alarms, when braking. Sound-off for 1 to 3 seconds:

1. Alarms most present during cold start.
2. Somewhat reduce during high RPM warm up.
3. Frequency reduce even more, as driven after warm up.
4. Brakes grab rather aburly, even during light braking.

The issues, seem at least somewhat related voltage. As such related improper care of battery and perhaps prolonged parking. If voltage from battery gets to low, this can set off DTC (detected trouble code) related to brake fluid pressure and may even set off ABS alarm. So battery is first, in diagnosing ABS issues.

Engine cover, has acid burns. Indicating battery had acid corrosion build up. As such, likely battery voltage and resistance issues downstream.
The BAT pictures showed what, I noted as acid burns. Seller explained as oil: "Thank you again. The engine cover is not scratched up. There was some oil spilled during an oil change and it was never cleaned by the dealer." Which was likely an honest opinion, but wrong:

We must never just wash off acid, with only water even soapy water. Doing so spreads the acid, which eats into paint and metals.

It was acid burns on the engine cover and around battery on other areas body under the hood. Indicate acid washed from battery, without neutralizing first. It also tells us. A lot of acid build up over time. Which will create issue with; charging, low voltage and amperage.

As acid builds up on top of battery, it can get rather bad. The acid damage/burns indicate, battery not properly care for. This acid works it way into battery clamp, fusible link and wire contacts. Which it did in this case.

First we must care for battery, since low voltage will affect, brake master as well as every electrical motor, relay, wire connection/plug and wire.

We must use, baking soda and water solution to neutralize the acid. Then clean battery post & clamps.

Oxidation between battery post & clamps, inhibits current. I use white lithium grease on clean battery post and clamps to keep oxidation at bay.

New battery in, reduced ABS alarms, most notably at startup:
The battery was found to be newer Group 24F, not fully accepting a full charge. Only reaching ~12.4 volts after charge. Battery, not fully charging, is sign not kept fully charged (parked for prolonged periods), result in battery sulfate.

So first thing was to get a good battery installed, with clean post and clamps. So installed, a new Toyota 27F. ABS alarms reduced in frequency, most notably on startup. But still getting ABS alarms and brake grab.

Found acid had gotten into fusible link, hung off battery:

The acid results in corrosive build up between connection and the corrosion inhibiting the current flow. This increase resistance in electrical wiring that delivers current to fuse box and on all down streams points current passes through and to. It is damaging. For example; Like running a leaf blower, drill, vacuum, etc, on a long extension cord of too small a wire gauge to carry proper amperages. It can burn-up their motors. One can feel the increase heat from resistance, in wire, by touching wire. It can also affect relays, contacts, and even the computers.

Replacing positive battery clamp, fusible link and one wire housing. As well as cleaning wire lugs/leeds/clamps. Help reduce ABS alarm frequency, even more than just a good fully charged battery did.

ABS alarms reduced at startup, but still present during normal driving.

 

[2001LC]

I'm "guessing", the black on rotors is/was from braking on rusty rotors. Indicating vehicle sat for prolonged periods, allowing rust to build-up.

I found the rotors black and variation in thickness between inner & outer disk surfaces (out of parallelism).

I'm "guessing", the black was from braking on rusty rotors.
Which if black iron of rust deposits, is sign vehicle parked extended period. Since mild rust (few weeks of sitting), wears off while braking fast and rotors are shin-up quickly. Letting wet rotors disk sit longer periods, without driving. Rust can get thick and unevenly deposited on disks. Then braking may not clean off to a shinny look, and surface gets uneven deposits. Which means runout goes out of spec. Perhaps the strange garb of with lite braking, was related to the blacken surface of disk. So use OTV brake lathe to clean and turn rotors disk.
Stock video on file, not actually this 100 series.


Rotor disk, after being machined with OTV lathe.

Hub and wheels deglaze/rust. Which is so runout of wheel hub, transfer through to wheel and tire.

Interesting, I found the front rotor disk at 31.08 down from std 32mm thick when new. After turning, they're now down to 30.65mm (minimum allowable 30mm).

So they will not likely be turnable again. That means these rotors have been on a lathe once or twice before. Either a deep cut of ~.0.90mm, or cut twice ~.45mm. Possible correcting disk runout due to rust. And or trying to correct ABS Alarm issue. What was interesting. I see signs pads also replaced. The rears shim kit and wear indicator, install same as I do and I have written about in mud.

If we take seller statement of how driven. Which HWY driving, typically very little braking for the miles. It is strange, to see new pads at 24K miles. So it does point to chasing braking issues and rusty rotor disk. Or, something wrong with sellers story!

Next was flush and bleed, with Toyota brake fluid.

To my surprise, I found air in the RR line.

No records of brake work or flushing or bleeding in history. More and more, it's becoming apparent. This is not a virgin. Possible someone open bleeder, to compressed piston to spread pads apart enough new pads would fit on rotors. Doing so, they may have forgot the close bleeder, then pressed brake pedal and released with bleeder opened.

Strange, I found both rear brake dust shields bent, and both the same. Either intentionally, or some gorilla tossing and the tires very forcefully.
It is the first I've seen rears dust shield bent.

So braking was improved.

ABS brake Alarms, still present. The frequency and time from cold start to warm up change, for the better. But still getting ABS Alarms.

 

[2001LC]

Spoiler: ABS alarms, gone now! Brake ABS relays and Brake master were, finale pieces of puzzle.

IMHO.
ABS brake alarms, were mostly due to improper maintenance of battery. That had it not been for battery acid induced resistance issues with fusible block & wiring. Lack of use, would not have resulted in ABS issue. To lessors extent. Being parked for a few prolonged periods over last 5 years. Exasperated issues of resistance and sticky relays.

First and foremost. The failure to properly care for battery (acid build up), lead to high resistance and low voltage issues. That affect the ABS relays and ABS unit (black box on side of master) of brake masters, ability to develver clean strong power to booster motor/pump. Contact points in relays & ABS unit, possible developed further issues of high resistance from inactivity also. Like what we see with lack of use with other switch, relays, motors when not used. i.e CDL, ECT. 2ND, Tilt & tele motors, minors, etc.

Below is what lead to replacing ABS relays:

Brake ABS alarm, reduced in frequency from work done to date, and timing had changed. But still present later into drive. Still thinking, this is voltage or resistance related. I took a look into fuse box. Where I now noticed, a spot of tan clay around relays.

Pulling relays, I found even more clay under them. It was unclear if mud deposited from top or perhaps oozing up from being inject from within seal underside area.

By pulling & replacing ABS relays. ABS alarms again changed. Now they were not activating with condition and driving route it had. Condition and route, where I was getting very repeatable ABS alarms.

But then on a second day. A few miles further into route/drive, while lightly braking. Brakes suddenly grab, very hard on their own. I drove a few more miles, trying to repeat the suddening braking. But couldn't.

Then once again, in slow turn into parking space with light braking. ABS alarms. I repeated this a few times. Then parked open hood and tapped on ABS replays. Alarms once again stopped. But the came back later.

Replaced all 3 ABS relays

This gave best change to date. Now I could not get alarms to repeat during all means, I had found I could in previous conditions and test drives. At first, it appears I found the finale piece of puzzle. No ABS alarms, no sudden braking, no issue with brakes at all.

Until, I drew battery voltage down just a tad below 12.5Volts. Alarms came back

But now, ABS alarms, only first few minutes engine started. I found that if battery voltage was drawn down just a tad. About like what voltage a good battery would be, if parked only a few days. ABS alarms first few minutes after start up. Even just IG key to on, with 2 or 3 pumps of brake pedal when battery voltage under 12.5V. I get alarms. Battery at 12.7volts or greater no alarms.

So I became concerned, clay in fuse box. May be affecting voltage or resistance of current to brake master. I ended up drilling a hole into side of fuse box, to get a peak with borescope at sealed underside. Where I did find more tan clay. So ordered a fuse box from Toyota. But once looking over the new fuse box, and how constructed. I had less concerned clay was the current issues. I went back into fuse box, looking for any signs, on male & female prongs & plugs for any clay or oxidation. Non found! Even though I still have concerns, clay in fuse box, may one day result in issue. At this point. I felt power from fuse box to brake master, was as it should be (good and clean).

Replaced brake master

Slightly low battery voltage, with clean power to brake master. Pointed to brake master being finale issue. With some concern, it could be brake CPU.

Even though ABS alarm now only issue, with slightly low battery voltage. And only first few minutes into a drive. It is, issue with the most important control of vehicle. Its braking a traction control.

So next ups, which was actually one of the first thoughts we may end up needing. Brake master was replaced.

This was final piece of puzzle. Now even if battery drawn down to 9 volts, I could not get alarms. I've test driven ~200 miles now over 7 days, no alarms.



Pictures and a bit more:

Fuse box & relays was next in power chain to brake master. So I took a closer look inside fuse box. I notice a small spots tan, in relay block inside fuse box.

I drilled a small hole into relays side of fuse box. So I could use my borescope, to look if clay in sealed area. There it was, clay in underside!

We still have some concerns, as to how deep into fuse box the clay was deposited by wildlife. That minerals in clays, may become issue in time. Damaging metal contact/leads. But It is not the ABS issue (we had) today.

I shotgun the ABS relays, replacing all three, did help with ABS alarms. Also no more sudden or hard braking:

My bet finale piece of puzzle, was brake master. So I replaced it. ABS and brakes have worked perfect since.

Same tan color clay, I saw from wasp nest around engine area and undercarriage. I don't know what all type of wildlife is 40 miles north of gulf coast of LA. Nor, how fast they can inhabit and build nest or deposit mud/clay. My guess, some of what I found would indicated, parked for a very long time outside.

A Wasp nest and clay deposit, found everywhere:

Had I replace the relays and brake master (includes flush & bleed) as a first step. Likely would have corrected issue in the short term. But if the battery fusible link and wire from it to fuse box. Not cleaned up. Issue would likely resurface in time in one form or another.

 

[2001LC]

Timing belt and Drive belt (AKA serp belt, AKA fan belt) and associated parts.

These are both miles and or age related PM service parts. It is a mistake to think just mile related.
What I found while in there, was a bit surprising. In that fan bracket was bad, and fan belt tension was on its way out.

The fan bracket (FB) bearing, had a sound when spun. At first I thought my ears were deceiving me. 24K and a bearing sound. Then I saw the oil/grease, coming from rear seal of FB. I'm very tough on grading fan brackets, when doing a T-belt. Even if bearing feels/sound good. Any oil from seal, I do not reuse. This FB, was a no brainer, but surprising.

Interesting fan belt (FB) tension pulley, had thick rust. I wire brushed off rust, finding deep rust pitting in pulley. The thicker the rust, the long period the engine was not run. I replaced, the fan belt tensioner assy.

No oil seen above oil pump O-ring, on crank seal, under cam seals or around TB tension pulley bolt hole. No coolant leaks visible either.
So no cam or cranks seals needed. I've yet to see factory installed crank seal, leak. Even at over 25 year olds and 400K miles.

I replaced timing belt tensioners, since they come in the kit regardless of condition.
Interesting this TB tensioner, did need replacing. Since oil seen on seal.

Timing belt (TB), had factory lettering still readable, but some rubber missing from outer surface. TB tensioner pulley, had some rubber stuck to it and rust. Indicating, prolong period of engine not run.

I did expect some block pitting under water pump gasket. Which it had some minor pits. For some reason the block in water ports and cavity behind water pump, was a rust color. That is not typical. May indicate a coolant flush was done (inappropriately), which was not in service history.

I did as I always do. Clean the block and applied FIPG 1218B to pitts and let cure overnight, before placing on water pump gasket.