Loud knocking and rattling, then a trail of oil and tears

[Devils Paw 80]

There's a 3FE for sale in Montana- MUD classifieds. Came out of an 80 though...

Also, here's SOR: Toyota 3F 3FE fj60 fj62 Remanufactured Engine - auto parts - by owner - vehicle automotive sale - craigslist - https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/pts/d/chatsworth-toyota-3f-3fe-fj60-fj62/7820366651.html

 

[DrRock]

LS swap seems like the best bang for your buck—and the solution most likely to make you smile at the end of the ordeal.

Challenge is he’s in California where swaps can be done, but will require a shop with the knowledge and capability to deal with the paperwork on the back end.

 

[vankho]

Yeah @DrRock partly why I'm leaning towards hunting for another 3F-E that I can just drop in or rebuild it. Just also have a desire to keep it close to factory. Thanks everyone for sharing resources and references. Appreciate all the help from the community so far!

 

[RevISK]

Yeah @DrRock partly why I'm leaning towards hunting for another 3F-E that I can just drop in or rebuild it. Just also have a desire to keep it close to factory. Thanks everyone for sharing resources and references. Appreciate all the help from the community so far!

Along with the 3FE and while we’re spending your money, just ditch the A440f before it too breaks your heart.

 

[MWM1]

I agree with RevISK, while we are spending your money add the H55F and don't look back! It's a great combination! Also ask Cruiser Matt about redoing the transfer case gears to get the similar overdrive feel you had with your stock FJ62.

 

[Skniper]

Whatever you do, you must keep that oil pan and display it! That’s an all time great Carnage Club trophy.

 

[3_puppies]

would a 2FE get by CA smog easily?
2FE and H55

 

[vankho]

Your Insta acct is private ....

There's always SOR but certainly not cheap.

You probably found my personal. Here’s the FJ’s https://www.instagram.com/ganbaru.cruiser

 

[vankho]

A fun Fourth of July update Getting the pan off was a real pain in the ass, since the hole that blasted out the side managed to be right where the last single bolt was. Spent hours with limited space, a hammer, and a punch trying to knock it back to get access, only to see the bolt warped. I can't imagine the lateral force that bolt took to warp the bolt head. Once I got the bolts off, the oil pan jingled and rattled like a set of janitor keys. A couple of pieces of the engine block dropped down on me as I was trying to shimmy the pan around to detach it. In some twisted way, I was excited about what kind of untold treasures awaited me...

So now I'm left playing back at how the camshaft completely broke. Draining the metallic oil pan revealed a couple bent pushrods and more shards of metal. Tried to get a couple of shots inside the cylinder 1 and 2, to see how the pistons were... which didn't look great either. Any guess from folks at what could have caused damage like this?

As for next steps, the hunt for a replacement continues. I'm leaning towards replacing with another 3FE. Just torn between whether to find used one to drop-in, a used one to rebuild (or already rebuilt), or a remanufactured 3FE. In the meanwhile, I might just start taking apart the engine accessories bit by bit and get intimate and familiar with it. Maybe just pull the engine out myself? I've never done stuff like that before, but figured why not. Would that make it harder for someone else to install a new long block or engine?

 

[Spike Strip]

Oof. New short block time. Sorry

 

[RevISK]

Real curious to know how something like this happens and even more, how to prevent it.

 

[vankho]

Real curious to know how something like this happens and even more, how to prevent it.

I'm left scratching my head too. I guessing it's a mix of high-revs/high RPMs on the highway. Others have DM'd that they've driven 3000 RPM without an issue. Maybe the oil ran low or low oil pressure. It was 2000-3000 miles since my last oil change, so I wonder if I burned through a couple of quarts. In hindsight, wondering if I just should have babied the engine and the car a little more given it's age.

 

[MWM1]

Yes, feel free to pull all the accessories and remove the engine out of the bay. It’s a great learning opportunity. Do take many many many photos and lots and lots of notes so you can put everything back yourself. Have fun!

 

[Spike Strip]

Looks like the #1 Rod Cap let loose, then caused havoc when bouncing around - I've seen those rod cap bolts break before. Not common, but enough that people have tried replacing them with similar ARP bolts when engine is rebuilt. There's a thread or two on here, somewhere. IIRC, they had to use something for a Supra? and shave the bolt heads.

Videos are not playing, for me.

 

[Skreddy]

For the “what caused it?”: I’d lean toward the front of cam broke causing the bent pushrods you have, not bent pushrods causing cam failure. Cams don’t typically break so I’d be thinking a rod or 2 let go and took out the cam and block, which took out pushrods, etc. It’s always possible something in the valvetrain like a really loose rocker, caused the pushrod to jump out of socket and bend but unless something very immobile stopped the front 1/3 of the cam spinning, not convinced it was a top to bottom failure.

Carnage sucks but pretty spectacular to see the power these chunks of cast iron contain.

 

[CruiserTrash]

@vankho Looks like folks are guessing the same thing I told you on IG. Approaching quorum.

@Spike Strip I recall that thread about using Supra rod bolts as well. Definitely remember something about having to shave the heads down too. It’s interesting that 99.5% of these stock F-family motors run just fine on the stock rod bolts … and then every once in a while one lets go.

 

[Spike Strip]

Yes. Stock bolts are fine, generally. Don't even know if that was the issue.

 

[DrRock]

ooooffff. I’m sorry. I wouldn’t beat yourself up thinking you did something wrong. This looks like others have said that a rod cap bolt let go and given the mass of the rod cap, it’s let go in the correct position to exert maximum damage based on its trajectory. The good news is that sourcing a short block being that you are on the west coast is easier.

Good luck and as others have said, use this as an opportunity to upgrade to the h55. I updated my truck with one and it’s easily the best upgrade I’ve done, plus it let;s one run lower RPM on the highway.

The great advice you will get here will serve you well.

 

[Hammer45]

I’m a few months ahead of you. So sorry for your loss.

I should know in a couple of weeks how this reman from Man_A_Fre does.

 

[MWM1]

I agree with the H55F upgrade if you can swing it in the budget. Best upgrade ever! Except when you go to the tire shop for a rotation and no-one knows how to drive a stick! I was asked to drive my rig into the bay. You will like the lower rpm's on the highway and I can hold 75mph all day long!