Look what I found.... 1961 FJ40 FST

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g'day punters. had a bit of a win. never heard of that atf 'recipe' but threw a drop in and gave it a go. also found in my junk a spin on oil filter (z9) that had been adapted to fit an f motor so mocked this up and finally got oil to the rocker shaft. happy days; this has been concerning me. threw a top hose and belt at the existing cooling system also. had a distinct 'leak' at the thermostat housing but that 'took up' a bit once it started circulating. this all needs much much more love of course but all in all i'm now calling this motor good to go and moving onto other isues.
 
try some pics
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i think adding the filter did the trick and some correct weight oil should improve things even more. never mind the yellow murky oil; must of got a bit of water in there when cleaning with the waterspit; rocker cover was just sitting loose on its old brittle gasket. have cleaned the rockers and pushrod gallery as best i can with kero and compressed air and have resolved to pull the sump for a clean and looksee.

managed to play a few hours over the last couple nights. did a car shuffle. stablemate is now front center (awaiting head gasket and sump clean) and shorty is tucked in the back corner where i can tinker at will. looks so much better in a shed on a concrete floor! have pulled the driveshafts, cooling system, a few other oddments and sprayed lots more lube. threw a bit of heat at the seat bolts, battery tray and a few hydraulic fittings etc and left said pieces to ponder their folly. i like to heat and let cool a few times before applying a spanner.

box out is next thing. this box has issues so.... (purist as i am) i think my plan is to use a later stick shift 3 speed in the shorty, at least in the short term. on the backburner i have a nice 62 fj45 i inherited in bits. it has a beautiful cab, a rough but repairable chassis and another early box with issues including a broken transfer case and lost linkages. hoping in time to build one nice box from the 2 and do a better restoration on the rust free 62 fj45.

donor stick shift will be from a 63/64 so my question is this. what issues am i going to have using a later box? will the existing shafts mate up lengthwise or am i going to have to fabricate something? (the original 61 shafts will be stowed safely unharmed) and will the donor 45 trans cover bolt up to the 61 shorty tub?

thanks for any thoughts; and i'm still having fun!
 
took a few beers over the shed after dark and had another play. got battery tray and rad support out. master cylinder bolts and fittings all cracked as are most brake fittings through the engine bay. this thing is going to take some dismantling; heat, lube and patience. havn't broken anything yet; but know i will!
 
another play. dropped remaining oils; rear diff and transfer were cleanish, gearbox and front diff were disgusting. box is now out. next plan is to clean this box a bit; pull some covers, see what its issues are, fill with diesel and preserve. thinking i need to change bellhousing to fit later box. haven't measured this yet but seem to remember this conclusion from couple years ago when contemplating box options for aforementioned 62/45. (i must of been short of a project at the time!) so thinking if bell housing change is imminent... (at the risk of getting carried away) may as well pull the motor and set it all up (clutch and etc) on the bench; there's really only a couple bolts holding this motor in now. be easier to clean and preserve chassis that way and sort a bit of stuff under the dash. hoping the later bellhousing will bolt up to the existing mounts? much appreciated if anyone with experience in this regard (later box swap) chimes in. things are quiet in the hollow! at any rate i can make my own conclusions with some straight edges and measure once motor is out rather than poking around flat on my back. when i get rich i'm going to buy a hoist!

but i'm still having fun just the way things are.
 
Whats up with your current transmission? What you said and looking at the picture it doesnt look that bad. Maybe its just the control arms that got stuck. The gears look beter then mine. What of you just try to turn it with a bit of fresh oil? I read something about a special atf recipe. Might save a lot of work.

This transmission is quite simple so it cannot be that hard.
 
this is the rarer 61/62 only trans. the vacuum parts at the box are missing. trans cover is lost. there is a homemade bar operating the 2x4 but this doesnt feel to engage anything in the transfer. and everything external is very very siezed; column linkages, cable and etc. post 63 sums up my thinking; i have another backburner project that may deserve this box more. but i am all about original and would love to see project shorty go back original thats for sure! in the meantime i am pondering my options (and budget;haven't blown it yet) and using whatever play time i got to clean my shed/workspace a little. got a mate due for beers on sunday (with a bring your pressurewasher postscript attached to the invitation haha) so after i have cleaned this box will open it up a little and see what i think. but mr. hdjtachig i am starting to lean towards your way of thinking lately. in the meantime there's a can of crc sitting on the cowl and plenty bits get another quick spray as i wander past attending to other things. i like this little tojo!
 
I know about the rarity of the transission. I have one myself and just went through a rebuild. Good news is all bearings and seals are available. Gaskets are DIY. I needed some gears for it and found those at mudmember Bill McC in the USA. Because shipping to the Netherlands of the whole transmission would be very expensive he was so kind to dismantle the transmission and only ship the parts I needed. He might have left over the parts you need (not sure). If you cannot reach him send me a PM and I'll give you his e-mail adress. He is a good guy and very willing to help (within budget, except for the shipping costs). I know of another complete early transmission in the USA (actually, fjfjfj knows one) but that one wasn't cheap.

But to get it running you can do without the 2wd/4wd and hi/low stuff I suppose?
 
I believe I still have a spare top cover. It was in a early 63 I bought out of a junk yard. Believe I scraped the housing and everything because of rust.
 
fill a bucket with atf and let everything that's seized sit for a bit. sometimes tends to loosen stuff up a bit.
 
You're a good man WA for keeping these old girls alive and well. The local scrap metal guys will be sniffing around looking for old tojo's to send to China as scrap metal.
 
far too many of our old cars have been going for scrap during the recent scrap boom. where i live it is common to see 3 trailer roadtrains loaded with crushed cars rolling down from further north. a scrap crew have a mobile crusher that they take to the small town (and remote aboriginal community tips) periodically. you can always pick a crushed cruiser, or an old falcon or holden or whatever in among the late model plastic crap in the load as they roll past. sad. i have a reasonable junkyard myself and the scrappys get nothing but batteries and beercans from me!
 
had no time lately but managed another look inside the gearbox. got it turning; very bearing rumbley of course. a tooth missing off what i take to be second gear but this the only obvious damage so far. havent placed an exploded diagram beside the box yet and havent looked in the transfer. with heat and patience got a few more things loose. passenger seat finally out. everything external to this box is seized very very solid. the gearshift collumn is one immovable solid lump from top to bottom. see the firewall is butchered with a chisel where someone has tried to remove this as one piece before. your comments on steering wheel removal (in your thread) were interesting andy budge. you can imagine how mine is 'attached' after 40 years in the weather. was a mission just to get the horn mechanism apart! havent even considered tackling the actual steer wheel yet. was thinking some kind of asbestos packer to heat the wheel. a slice of old asbestos waterpipe would be ideal but i dont know of anything that small dia. (incidentally my local small town still has sections of old asbestos pipe among the outlying borefield that supply the town water supply; guess it is safe to drink asbestos just dont breath it!)

let alone the vacuum cable and remnants of the fd switch. just starting to get a bit of reluctant movement through the hi lo linkages (but this is the easy bit!)
 
a slice of old asbestos waterpipe would be ideal but i dont know of anything that small dia. (incidentally my local small town still has sections of old asbestos pipe among the outlying borefield that supply the town water supply; guess it is safe to drink asbestos just dont breath it!)



I had a government job that we had a three day class on asbestos. If we weren't given the yearly refresher class after a few years we were forced to take the whole three day class again. The last time I took it before I retired things had changed. Now you were not suppose to swallow it either. Like your area I know some of the older areas in town the water pipes are asbestos. Think it is one of those no money to replace them so we look the other way. Plus if you replace them then your admitting you know they is a problem and the lawsuits will start flooding in. I see ads on TV all the time by lawyers if you have or a love one died of Mesothelioma call us. That was people who worked in certain trades. Can you imagine what would happen if someone linked water pipes to Mesothelioma. The pipes are probably slowly being replaced. Not because their asbestos but just scheduled replacement because of age.:rolleyes:

Personally I would attach a puller to the steering wheel now and start soaking the splines on the shaft. Then every once in a while give the hex head of the puller a quick blow to shock it. You might get lucky. If not nothing lost. I need to figure a way to do something like this to a couple of PTO drive shafts on a 60 FJ25 and 61 FJ40 where they comes thru the front member on the frame. On the old PTOs the female spline was very long giving it a large area to rust with limited excess. Add into that not wanting to destroy the pillow block bearing housing on the male splined shaft makes it tricky.
 
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had another quick play tonight. pulled the 2x4 mechanism. the fork that operates this is very worn and was no longer attached to the appropriate location on the operating 'coupling'. i sorta suspect this has been reassembled wrong in the past but haven't studied this too much; perhaps it was able to slip past somehow. you can see how po attempted to build the fork up with bronze. the bronze piece was laying loose in the housing; its a classic po repair!

also pictured is the homemade 2x4 operating lever and the missing tooth on second gear.

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pulled covers off the transfer. fantastically clean and condensation free in there after looking in the gearbox. was the highlight of my day (excepting my lunchtime nap!). picture a little distorted; taken on my girls phone

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so.... (knowing nothing at all about these old vacuum operated transmissions) i've got some questions. like i have mentioned previously; australia only got column shift in 61/62 and not the next generation of the box. was stick shift only after that.

mainly i wish to know are the newer generation vacuum parts the same as (or adaptable to) the earlier box? pieces i require (so far) are:
- the vacuum diaphram on the transfer case
- the vacuum lines themselves
- whatever the internals may be in the vacuum 'switch' on the firewall (haven't touched this yet)
- front drive knob and cable (don't think my cable is salvageable)

and.... where can i get this stuff? what is available new and where and what must i source used? none of this is in australia.

and finally.... someone tell me the cable is same left v right hand drive. even if your not sure just tell me that anyway ;-)
 
I know there's a difference between this early and a little later vacuum diaphragm. Don't know if the later assembly will fit this TC. I just know the rubber diaphragm itself is not interchangeable. Don't think any of the parts you need are available new.

I don't have a early parts manual. Others here do. I found some pics at sor.com which I attached. If I can find a little time tomorrow I will check if the service manual has some useful information.


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