Long Travel AHC

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Like @nwfl4runner , I very much doubt it's your CVs, especially for stock stroke.

What's more likely IMO is the steering stops. These are metal on metal stops, and definitely can clank with steering lock and suspension articulating.

Keep the sensor lift. Go AHC long travel. :)

Do you also think there is a chance that the spring is moving around?
 
@tbisaacs i know this is dumb, but what was locked if anything? I think also you just changed to new wheels right? Was that the first real aggressive outing with them? Potential rubbing or worse case t-case binding at full steering lock?
 
@tbisaacs i know this is dumb, but what was locked if anything? I think also you just changed to new wheels right? Was that the first real aggressive outing with them? Potential rubbing or worse case t-case binding at full steering lock?

No, center diff open. First outing with wheels but I don’t know how t-case binding comes in. What do you mean?
 
Do you also think there is a chance that the spring is moving around?

I also don't think so. But as you have spring rubbers, that could be a variable. The way I imagine it works is that it isolates a coil and with that, maybe it's possible that it can create coil bind on full compression. With possibly some odd noises?

Is it happening on full compression or extension? You said earlier it was with a lot of steering lock which is why I was guessing it's the steering stops.
 
I also don't think so. But as you have spring rubbers, that could be a variable. The way I imagine it works is that it isolates a coil and with that, maybe it's possible that it can create coil bind on full compression. With possibly some odd noises?

Is it happening on full compression or extension? You said earlier it was with a lot of steering lock which is why I was guessing it's the steering stops.

I thought about this too. The rubbers are zip tied in and definitely heard it at extension. I know you had to be there but I thought initially it was a spring moving and seating. I wonder if the rubbers being tied in could prevent full spring extensiion?

Edit: I don’t want do derail this thread. I’ll investigate when I get home and report back but sounds unlikely to be CV bind.
 
Could be the spring rubbers. A photo of the spring when you're 'grinding' might be interesting to see.

Is the issue at compression or extension?
 
Extension
if you had zip ties across the coil wrap they would already have been broken at extension. I doubt it's the spring rubbers at extension. that's the opposite of a coil bind situation.
 
Sweet. If you were able to make a similar mount for the front LCA, which spaced up the shock eyelet by ~25mm, I think it would be WAY easier to install than the shock-top spacers/studs that everyone seems to be using.

Am I missing something here that makes a shock-top spacer better than an LCA/bottom-eyelet spacer? Is it preload that you are looking for? The bottom end would be easier to install, requiring zero modification of the AHC fluid line, studs, etc. If people need to be able to hold more load, then I guess compressing the springs is necessary, but if not a sensor lift and bottom end spacer might do the trick.

Here's a photo of the 100 series solution from Japan 4x4...
image-jpeg.1311628


A similar solution could fit into the "pocket" of the 200 series LCA and extend the mounting point upwards by ~25mm, achieving the same thing as @turbo8 has done at the rear.
View attachment 3254526
Someone school me here ;)

I would like to bring this post back up to revive discussion on this topic.

Those who know more about this stuff than me: would raising the lower strut mount 15-20mm have the same effect as adding a 15-20mm spacer on top?

This route seems to have some pros that appeal to me:
1) considering replacing my a-arms anyway to get fresh, rust-free gear with new bushings
2) considering swapping to tundra arms in front at the same time
3) don't have to crack open the AHC system or modify anything up top, don't need to mess with spring compressors, which I hate using lol. Easy to switch back to stock if needed just by putting some stock arms back on.

The obvious con is welding fabrication on the A arms, but I think it is within my abilities. Any other cons I'm not thinking of? Any reason why you think it wouldn't work? I would probably weld up a new lower mounting position rather than bolting something in (unless @turbo8 wants to design another product for us)

:EDIT: or for that matter, would welding a sleeved extension to the part of the strut below the shock body and above the eye accomplish the same thing?
 
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I would like to bring this post back up to revive discussion on this topic.

Those who know more about this stuff than me: would raising the lower strut mount 15-20mm have the same effect as adding a 15-20mm spacer on top?

This route seems to have some pros that appeal to me:
1) considering replacing my a-arms anyway to get fresh, rust-free gear with new bushings
2) considering swapping to tundra arms in front at the same time
3) don't have to crack open the AHC system or modify anything up top, don't need to mess with spring compressors, which I hate using lol. Easy to switch back to stock if needed just by putting some stock arms back on.

The obvious con is welding fabrication on the A arms, but I think it is within my abilities. Any other cons I'm not thinking of? Any reason why you think it wouldn't work? I would probably weld up a new lower mounting position rather than bolting something in (unless @turbo8 wants to design another product for us)

:EDIT: or for that matter, would welding a sleeved extension to the part of the strut below the shock body and above the eye accomplish the same thing?

Short answer is i personally wouldn't. #332
 
Short answer is i personally wouldn't. #332
I would like to bring this post back up to revive discussion on this topic.

Those who know more about this stuff than me: would raising the lower strut mount 15-20mm have the same effect as adding a 15-20mm spacer on top?

This route seems to have some pros that appeal to me:
1) considering replacing my a-arms anyway to get fresh, rust-free gear with new bushings
2) considering swapping to tundra arms in front at the same time
3) don't have to crack open the AHC system or modify anything up top, don't need to mess with spring compressors, which I hate using lol. Easy to switch back to stock if needed just by putting some stock arms back on.

The obvious con is welding fabrication on the A arms, but I think it is within my abilities. Any other cons I'm not thinking of? Any reason why you think it wouldn't work? I would probably weld up a new lower mounting position rather than bolting something in (unless @turbo8 wants to design another product for us)

:EDIT: or for that matter, would welding a sleeved extension to the part of the strut below the shock body and above the eye accomplish the same thing?
It worked well on the 100 series with the Japan 4x4 spacers without welding required (drilling required, however in the 100 series). The nice part is it should be fairly cheap to fabricate, easy to install, and total reversible. I could envision a fairly simple billet aluminum or steel design working. The key would be making a very tight fit, and fastening it into the shock "pocket" of the LCA. A strong secondary fastener would be ideal to prevent any play. Certainly welding would be another option here, but less easily reversed in the event that someone wants to go back to stock.

There are definitely a few ways to skin this cat, however: The top spacing, a "spacer" on the bottom, or possibly LX600 shock replacement...still waiting on a guinea-pig/hero for that last one!

PPM-8015-400.jpg

something like this could be fabricated to fit without calling in the rocket-scientists.
 
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It worked well on the 100 series with the Japan 4x4 spacers without welding required (drilling required, however in the 100 series). The nice part is it should be fairly cheap to fabricate, easy to install, and total reversible. I could envision a fairly simple billet aluminum or steel design working. The key would be making a very tight fit, and fastening it into the shock "pocket" of the LCA. A strong secondary fastener would be idea to prevent any play. Certainly welding would be another option here, but less easily reversed in the event that someone wants to go back to stock.

There are definitely a few ways to skin this cat, however: The top spacing, a "spacer" on the bottom, or possibly LX600 shock replacement...still waiting on a guinea-pig/hero for that last one!

PPM-8015-400.jpg

something like this could be fabricated to fit without calling in the rocket-scientists.

I just dont see the point of potentially compromising geometry when a simple stroke increase is all thats needed.

But im down to see any experimentation and im sure it could be pulled off!
 
A bolt in thingy like the one pictured in #352 looks like it would be impossible to limit to 20mm, that looks like a full 2" offset or more, which would be way too big. I was thinking of just re-fabbing the mounting tabs on my lower a arms. Or perhaps even easier, welding a 20mm sleeved extension to the lower part of the shock.

sleeve.jpg
 
Got a chance to stretch her legs on some deep moguls. Really happy with the all around added travel.



Some observations on the rear suspension
- Satisfied that it's still keeping all the up-travel
- With the added down-travel, in an articulated situation with one side down and the other side up, it adds to the down and up travel of each side
- This also seems to push the stuffed tire further rearward, enough that it's catching things that it did not previously. Perhaps harder to imagine, but this is due to the asymmetric angles of the lower rear trailer arms. The drooped arm is at a steeper angle pulling the axle forward. The stuffed side is straighter pushing it rearward. The added travel compounding the shift.

In this case, 35s are scrubbing on the passenger mud flap screw, right under the AHC resevoir cover, where it didn't before. Hence the loud clicking noise in the above video. Should be easy enough to push back just a tad.

xW-FbrBcy6yayrs5u47gFvgEJUfpIM0BPI7lwGQF3GxM1_jno2R0nUFIlNDFYwM2kkkN4OAC_HHMcI-j7vORmIvVdPTnf4TwXG4oVTMRaVCTOBGshCf38-AmHrj-nn2vlvphw1vAEX_vC-3QqIr81rA1o-XUygLxV2x_wxZBkLIDd3NZipPYQTMtSFCDI468PiQ-buS42rKmmJ857PLLHWjVAXRWZqqBz90pCc3djDzl0GuxNzTNLWbHzQkvFHI7B7MPoJU-1xXK15SS8e_PHeIdwyrLdvC450ecJknRvOj3W9EHrbKvQ9geh2zB_kdeyoIdkW5TXlChyJ83FFKNpNZR6cKGnNx1FOP4LaGdYrFhsxm-DjbZNkRLAYr4YkbREQuaZR2QFJW8t_-pB8ovHAwRf7dz22Do7FjJjJmW6ryA6OeOj4O3AuZ6NX4Oezj5JhsqBcHrdz0gXM9yoJxTWVwinjUx5JxdFazvvAatnoMXHaZwf_yH6BYYpfpMRAGPBBhoDKJbjZ8EyVpF6S_bAFi9ZLkmfs5A6clMYzoIN_Z-KNS-P4ddinuYb8WWK-NlIAIkweWOLWV6nppgG-mwbd-4596_rp-mYExspeSkTG206acS8LRMf4XLaolokELMI6biBOxNyrD79kNSHd7NxxQYP9FXbIEPndZWkgvIZwYKtrTwxki8SIQQkoyrX6lSk6Ytgybv4Mu8oByqdBngWVf6wNftAg4wrunGF1CP60befLbWzJpCK0NWFxdPlKZkCtixOO_1Y7LmnEvUxcwMJOEKa8d-xn02Lez9cYSImSjKfPX4WMdXbDE2X7yQhB9nj7kgwBpQwKU8SR_CQ424JUVKurvg1qqu4MARhDluj2NJ-fFyfhcpRo6x_XJTgtGEAVryPBrNLUbLPzmSQuloABjonwqk4xaTfph8y0IUny86mg=w1532-h2033-no
 
Got a chance to stretch her legs on some deep moguls. Really happy with the all around added travel.



Some observations on the rear suspension
- Satisfied that it's still keeping all the up-travel
- With the added down-travel, in an articulated situation with one side down and the other side up, it adds to the down and up travel of each side
- This also seems to push the stuffed tire further rearward, enough that it's catching things that it did not previously. Perhaps harder to imagine, but this is due to the asymmetric angles of the lower rear trailer arms. The drooped arm is at a steeper angle pulling the axle forward. The stuffed side is straighter pushing it rearward. The added travel compounding the shift.

In this case, 35s are scrubbing on the passenger mud flap screw, right under the AHC resevoir cover, where it didn't before. Hence the loud clicking noise in the above video. Should be easy enough to push back just a tad.

xW-FbrBcy6yayrs5u47gFvgEJUfpIM0BPI7lwGQF3GxM1_jno2R0nUFIlNDFYwM2kkkN4OAC_HHMcI-j7vORmIvVdPTnf4TwXG4oVTMRaVCTOBGshCf38-AmHrj-nn2vlvphw1vAEX_vC-3QqIr81rA1o-XUygLxV2x_wxZBkLIDd3NZipPYQTMtSFCDI468PiQ-buS42rKmmJ857PLLHWjVAXRWZqqBz90pCc3djDzl0GuxNzTNLWbHzQkvFHI7B7MPoJU-1xXK15SS8e_PHeIdwyrLdvC450ecJknRvOj3W9EHrbKvQ9geh2zB_kdeyoIdkW5TXlChyJ83FFKNpNZR6cKGnNx1FOP4LaGdYrFhsxm-DjbZNkRLAYr4YkbREQuaZR2QFJW8t_-pB8ovHAwRf7dz22Do7FjJjJmW6ryA6OeOj4O3AuZ6NX4Oezj5JhsqBcHrdz0gXM9yoJxTWVwinjUx5JxdFazvvAatnoMXHaZwf_yH6BYYpfpMRAGPBBhoDKJbjZ8EyVpF6S_bAFi9ZLkmfs5A6clMYzoIN_Z-KNS-P4ddinuYb8WWK-NlIAIkweWOLWV6nppgG-mwbd-4596_rp-mYExspeSkTG206acS8LRMf4XLaolokELMI6biBOxNyrD79kNSHd7NxxQYP9FXbIEPndZWkgvIZwYKtrTwxki8SIQQkoyrX6lSk6Ytgybv4Mu8oByqdBngWVf6wNftAg4wrunGF1CP60befLbWzJpCK0NWFxdPlKZkCtixOO_1Y7LmnEvUxcwMJOEKa8d-xn02Lez9cYSImSjKfPX4WMdXbDE2X7yQhB9nj7kgwBpQwKU8SR_CQ424JUVKurvg1qqu4MARhDluj2NJ-fFyfhcpRo6x_XJTgtGEAVryPBrNLUbLPzmSQuloABjonwqk4xaTfph8y0IUny86mg=w1532-h2033-no

I had to pull that all Back at least 1-1.5inches.
 
I had to pull that all Back at least 1-1.5inches.

That's awesome. Remind me what your latest tire size is?

I've often thought about extending the rear suspension links to stretch wheelbase for better climbing, departure, and even tow load handling.

Bigger tires definitely do their part. To your point that your tires are encoaching the rear fender/liners, along with your rear bumper cut, you probably have some seriously good departure angle. Whereas the classic recipe of rear bumpers and swingouts often sticks further out. Good clearance but possily not as great departure, unless mixed with even larger tires.
 
Has anyone happened to identify a good candidate for a 1 piece spacer for the front end? I have the OEM 10mm. I think @TeCKis300 ended up stacking 2 different spacers to get to 17mm. Be nice if there was a one piece 15-17mm spacer. I think a 1.25" (in theory about 16mm thickness) tundra spacer would be the ticket. Not sure if that exists.
 
Has anyone happened to identify a good candidate for a 1 piece spacer for the front end? I have the OEM 10mm. I think @TeCKis300 ended up stacking 2 different spacers to get to 17mm. Be nice if there was a one piece 15-17mm spacer. I think a 1.25" (in theory about 16mm thickness) tundra spacer would be the ticket. Not sure if that exists.

I looked long and hard for a Tundra spacer but couldn't find anything readily available under 24mm. Doesn't help that most ads quote suspension lift rather than spacer size.

I think we're learning that 20mm may be a reasonable limit where sway and CVs all max out, so perhaps easy button at the moment is 2x OEM spacers? 17mm may be a good trade from a longer term durability perspective?
 

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