Lock-Rite Install Questions (1 Viewer)

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I'm putting a lock rite lunchbox locker in my '78 FJ40. When I originally put it in, the center gap was too wide, close to 3/16 eyeballing with my ruler, that is 4.75mm. It was so wide, the pins barely engaged. Lock-Rite's specs for the gap is 3.68mm - 4.32. I don't have a micrometer, which is something I should have bought the day I started the install.

My old thrust washers measured about 1.55 each or 3.10mm combined at a local machine shop. I wanted to drop to the lower end of the specs to have more room for wear. If I dropped to around 3.75mm, I would need to go about .75 to 1 mm combined larger.

Toyota's east coast distribution center only had one of each size in stock and I purchased a 1.85-1.95mm and a 2.00-2.10mm. I figured they would average around 3.95 vs my 3.10mm.

The new thrust washers arrived and I was able to install the lock-rite. The center gap has been reduced substantially (it now looks to be about an 1/8', which is only 3.17mm - below the 3.68 minimum stated by lockrite.

Both plates seem to lock and unlock as they should. However, I'm concerned about the fact that one spacer is about .15mm thicker than the other. The additional combined thickness over my original washers makes the pinion pin a snug fit. Instead of slipping into place, I had to give it some raps with the handle of a screwdriver to get it in. There's not much give and there's virtually no axle end play at the wheels and no play at the ring gear.

I think Aussie Locker gives some clearance specs between side plates and the pinion pin, I haven't found any yet for Lock-Rite except the manual states the pinion pin should slip in or can be tapped in. I'm concerned that mine is too tight. On the other hand, it might wear in OK and give me longer life because the center gap is so small.

My other concern is that my thrust washers spacers are different thicknesses and that the pinion pin is not as closely centered as it would be if they were both within the same spec range of one another.

Should I run it as is and hope it wears in OK, or is this thing going to get tighter as it warms up (it's under 50 degrees here) and bind something or put an overload on my side bearings?

Thoughts? (Other than buy a micrometer which I'm going to do as it is a useful tool that I expect to use more in the future).
 
I installed mine without measuring. It seems like it's too tight; noisy and clunky in parking lots.

My only advice would be to try it and see how it works. It's not that hard to tear it apart down the road.

Aussie and Lock-rite are identical. Guidelines on one should be fairly applicable to the other.

Knowing how they work I would not be at all concerned about it being perfectly centered.
 
i run mine tight also . doesn't clunk or bang and very quite on the ratcheting while parking in parking lots

my first lockrite i ran on the looser end of the specs and it banged popped and jerked while trying to park in a parking lot . sometimes it also would bang while just cruising straight down the road while slowing down coasting as i approached a red light.

i wouldn't worry about it. they seem to work better if you run with the tighter tolerances
 
I installed mine without measuring. It seems like it's too tight; noisy and clunky in parking lots.

My only advice would be to try it and see how it works. It's not that hard to tear it apart down the road.

Aussie and Lock-rite are identical. Guidelines on one should be fairly applicable to the other.

Knowing how they work I would not be at all concerned about it being perfectly centered.

Identical?
 
Similar, the Aussie is a slightly more refined Lok-Rite...
 
So... has the Aussie locker improved on any weaknesses of the lunchbox design?
 
For those who want to know more, there are many threads on Lock-Rite, EZ Locker and Aussie Locker and comparisons. If you are considering a lunch box locker, I suggest you search those threads and check the FAQ install by Woodie that pretty much applies to all t brands.

As an example: https://forum.ih8mud.com/search.php?searchid=6499100

Woody has an installation guide that pretty much applies to all 3 versions. It takes awhile for the page to load. FJ40 - EZ-Locker / Lock-Right install instruction

The biggest issue is the thrust washers. You are replacing the side gears with the locker parts and 2 spacers. They may not be the same total thickness as the side gears unless you get really lucky. Therefore the thrust washers will need to be changed to insure that the gap in the center where the pinion shaft goes is within the locker's specs. Mine were initially too wide with my stock washers and are now too narrow with the new washers. If I had a set of calipers, I could have measured accurately and determined the exact thickness that I needed. It is simple math to calculate the difference in thickness you need to adjust the gap in or out to get within specs. I guessed, which isn't a very good option. The washers run about $9-11 each at the dealer with a favorable discount, so buying them all to do trial and error can get expensive as they are probably not returnable. SOR has them used for about $4-$10 plus s&h depending of whether you go new or used.

The benefits of a lunch box locker are that it doesn't require removing the differential carrier and gears to install. The are other threads regarding whether or not they are weaker than a full locker like a Detroit. They are definitely much cheaper. I got mine for 1/2 price on Flea Bay. It came out of the front of a 40 in Florida. It looks virtually new as it would have only been engaged when the hubs were locked in. Good used ones are always up for sale on Mud if you want to try one without spending the usually $300 or so plus S&H from one of the Mud vendors. From my research, the Aussie Locker is the better of the 3 if you are buying new, but there are opinions to the contrary.

I would appreciate it if we can stay on the original subject and focus on my getting more input on my current setup situation with the Lock-Right. :cheers:
 
Just make sure that the clearances are within the range specified by Lockrite. Too tight or too loose is bad.
 
I fully agree. I'm uneasy at going skinnier than than stated specs and putting pressure against the spacers,and side bearings. Anything that is too tight creates friction, heat and wear. Thankfully, one of my local club's mud mates is sending me over a selection of used washers and a vernier caliper. I should be able to resolve my clearance issues and get on the road with peace of mind by the middle of the week.

My only other question would be in regards to gear oil. We normally run 80W-90 in our 40's around here and we are already in the time of year where temps are rarely above the 50's and it gets much colder over the winter. I think I might be OK for now, but I may have to go a bit heavier in the summer. I plan to change the diff oil after the first 500 miles and check the drain plug for particulates.
 

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