Best way to install caster shims? (2 Viewers)

[Last Flight Out]

@Mark

I've got some new dobinsons springs I'm wanting to install. I know I'll need to use 4* caster shims with them but the head of the spring pin is not long enough to reach through the shim and still have enough length to go up into the spring perch. Do I just need to get a different spring pin with a longer head on it?

@Mark Jennings really helped me with my install and here is what he said relating to new pins. Worked like a charm for me:

"I get ‘Steel’ shims from WFO Concepts, 2.5” wide (I’ve bought 2 degree and 4 degree from them). I get the Spring Pack centering bolts from autoandtrucksprings.com. The centering bolts are 3/8 X 3.5 inches and I get the bolt head extensions (p/n CBHL2) that give you an additional 3/8 of an inch to get through the shim and into the centering hole on the axle.The reason for the new centering bolt is that you will need a longer on to go through the spring pack AND the shim, e.g. the shim becomes part of the spring pack."

 

[knuckle47]

I also ordered the centering pins from autoandtrucksprings.com …they’re right outside Philadelphia and arrived free shipping in 2 days

 

[Mark Jennings]

General information….if you do a 2.5 inch lift, no matter who the spring manufacturer is, and stock shackle length, start with 2 degree shims. If you are like me, and add extended shackles in the back to level the old girl out, then 4 degrees, e.g. 2 degrees per inch of lift. And I really, really recommend the WFO shims, the centering hole is milled with a flat spot to keep the pins straight, line up perfectly with the axle spring pads.

 

[RevISK]

General information….if you do a 2.5 inch lift, no matter who the spring manufacturer is, and stock shackle length, start with 2 degree shims. If you are like me, and add extended shackles in the back to level the old girl out, then 4 degrees, e.g. 2 degrees per inch of lift. And I really, really recommend the WFO shims, the centering hole is milled with a flat spot to keep the pins straight, line up perfectly with the axle spring pads.

For what it’s worth, Valley Hybrids/Cruiser Brothers and Cruiser TEQ are milled the same way. I’ve used all three (WFO being the 3rd) and they are all great. Just prefer to keep my money in the family as it were.

 

[1973Guppie]

Attached is a picture of installed WFO 2 degree shims, if you zoom in you can see the centering pins poke up through the axle plate. The centering bolt extensions are uber helpful when dropping the axle back in position.

View attachment 3614173

thx for the info on where to get pins and extenstions, did you have to redrill the leaf spring pack using the pins from ATS?

 

[Mark Jennings]

No, however my springs are an older set of Skyjackers, you need to measure the spring pins, one seen 5/16 and 3/8 bolts. Measure twice and buy once

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

I get ‘Steel’ shims from WFO Concepts, 2.5” wide (I’ve bought 2 degree and 4 degree from them). I get the Spring Pack centering bolts from autoandtrucksprings.com. The centering bolts are 3/8 X 3.5 inches and I get the bolt head extensions (p/n CBHL2) that give you an additional 3/8 of an inch to get through the shim and into the centering hole on the axle.

A 2 degree shim should restore caster to original Toyota spec with 2.5” springs as long as the shackles are stock length. If you go with 4 degree shims in the front you may start to impact the front driveshaft pinion angle.

Bottom Line….Do Not use aluminum shim plates, they wear, so you’re always back under the rig tightening the ‘U’ bolts or they break under load.

I run Skyjacker springs, don’t know if OME uses the same bolt, but on the Skyjackers, the 3.5 inch bolt is a bit to long, so I just grind flush with the nut once installed. The 3/8’s bolts on my rig were the correct diameter. I would double check on your OME setup.

What year 40 do you have?

Curious as I need to add a longer bolt to accomodate a 3/8" cruiser lean shim to my right front spring pack figured I'd swap out my aluminum caster shims at the same time for a steel 2 degree

I am currently using 60 series rear spring pins on the front of my 1979 FJ40 with slip over 2.5 degree shims and I'm at +1.5 degrees of caster.

I think that the 2 degree should get me right on to +1 degree.
Please correct me if I'm wrong on my math here.

 

[Mark Jennings]

What year 40 do you have?

Curious as I need to add a longer bolt to accomodate a 3/8" cruiser lean shim to my right front spring pack figured I'd swap out my aluminum caster shims at the same time for a steel 2 degree

I am currently using 60 series rear spring pins on the front of my 1979 FJ40 with slip over 2.5 degree shims and I'm at +1.5 degrees of caster.

I think that the 2 degree should get me right on to +1 degree.
Please correct me if I'm wrong on my math here.

View attachment 3868452View attachment 3868453

1968…..Skyjacker 2.5” stock shackles front, confer 1” longer shackles rear….run 2* front shim and 4* rear shim.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

1968…..Skyjacker 2.5” stock shackles front, confer 1” longer shackles rear….run 2* front shim and 4* rear shim.

Thanks Mark!

 

[Beams37]

Great info here. I'll be doing shims in the next few weeks. Is there a desired torque spec for the centering pin and U-bolts? Or, is it just a "give it everything you've got" situation?