little orphan annie (1 Viewer)

[nuclearlemon]

took off early from work so we could tool her down to the state patrol to get a certified vin inspection, then i made a visit to the dept of revenue to get a title and record search done.

from there, we had to enjoy the great weather by adjusting some steering and working on the little things. starting with the horn. horns are good...12v to the post on the relay to the them delivers a bitchin deep loud noise.

12v to the center post on the relay delivers noise.

adjusted the gap to spec

grounding the horn button to relay (and housing to ground since we'd unbolted it) causes relay to work......but no horn honk ?????

there does not appear to be 12v at the center post except when we jump to it. looking at the schematic, i would guess it should always be hot and the green/red would ground when you hit the button thus competing the circuit, correct?

 

[Cruiser_Nerd]

Correct, sounds like you don't have voltage from the fuse box.

B is battery - always hot
S is switch - goes to ground through the horn button
H is horn - hot when S is grounded (solenoid is energized pulling down the lever closing the contacts between B and H)



May as well polish the contacts while you're in there.

 

[nuclearlemon]

May as well polish the contacts while you're in there.

already did that, after pic was taken. also cleaned the contacts for wire.

thanks for checking the power thing. will have to see where power is lost. fuses looked good, but i'll pull and clean and replace tonight maybe.

was damn fun driving her to work today tho

 

[Pighead]

Fine tuning/working the bugs out...

While Annie is now driveable/streetable, it still bothers me that she won't idle without the choke 1/2 way out. Pighead's general rule of thumb (on 2 barrel carbs) is that needing 1/2 choke to idle=vacuum leak (and requiring full choke to idle=bad fuel cut-off solenoid, which we don't have one anyway). So, pulled the vacuum line to the transfer case and plugged it with a bolt, took the hard vacuum line off the dizzy and put a vacuum gauge on it to try to rule out bad diaphragms.
Warmed her up, slight improvement, perhaps. Still requires choke to idle, maybe not quiet as much. Without the hardline on the dizzy, can retard timing enough to get the light on the BB. Can get the idle down to 650-700 RPM. Tach still wavers 25 to 50 and idle still seems "rough". A little more choke and idle comes up and smooths out.
Vacuum gauge (on the dizzy end of the hardline) shows 4"-5" of Hg at idle and climbs with throttle application. Normal on a D-40? Am used to no vacuum at idle from the carb.
I'm going to re-adjust the tappet clearance, see if that helps. Gotta take the top off the carb and reset the float (fuel level is a little high on the window) and thinking about changing the main jet to the big-hole one with the needle, see if that changes anything.
Also, as mentioned previously, currently at TDC #1, the dizzy rotor points directly at the block, not at #4 sparkplug, as I am used to. Thinking that I need to clock the dizzy counter-clockwise a tooth or two to keep the timing where I can see the BB without bending that hardline too much.
Comments and corrections gratefully accepted before I screw this up.

 

[Pighead]

thinking about changing the main jet to the big-hole one with the needle

Nope. The carb body is drilled either for the big jet or the little jet, not interchangeable.
But, before pulling the carb, sprayed some carb cleaner at the at the throttle shaft ends (while running), idle picked up...vac leak source? enough to require choke?
Put our spare carb base on to see if it made a difference (no).
Good news, fuel level in the float bowl is now pretty perfect.

 

[nuclearlemon]

uuuummmmmmssssseeeexxxxxyyyyyyy.....

and some softtop porn...the only pieces i have left from building my 68 forty doors...now just need outer handles, 25 frames, weatherstrip........crap.... had to blast them...they looked like crap.

 

[nuclearlemon]

new chain covers to match the seats are on, and i think i found the issue with the vacuum shift 4wd not working

 

[nuclearlemon]

pulled into the driveway, and there was a large item in the front yard...wooohoooo...thanks zebrabeefj40! needed a new valve stem so pighead broke the bead loose, i changed out the valve stem and we aired it back up and got it installed. nice.

 

[nuclearlemon]

productive night...also, got the vacuum pod installed back onto the transfer case, with all new hoses...test run shows IT WORKS!!!!! woohoooo!!!!!

got the two side splash guards back on, along with the skid plate and the front driveshaft and the turn buttons (decided to go aftermarket and got them from odcloth....mistake. they are little 6-32 studs, so sloppy in the hole and they break easily. now i have to get a couple from the dealer )

still need to calibrate that speedo tho

 

[subzali]

How could the speedo be off?

 

[ClemsonCruiser]

still need to calibrate that speedo tho

LOL my dads speedo in his LV with stock tires reads almost 10mph fast at 60mph.... this must be how Toyota got away with advertising these things would do "85mph all day long on the open highway"

 

[Living in the Past]

still need to calibrate that speedo tho

Was the picture taken while driving or or does it should this speed not moving?
Fixes are different.

How could the speedo be off?

If the speedo was a geared drive it really couldn't be off. Not sure but I think the speedo moves by a spinning magnet that creates a magnetic field. The needle is a spring loaded. Faster the magnet spins the strong the field moving the arm further If pulling the cable and cleaning and lube (white grease) doesn't fis proably something wrong in the speedo itself. It getting harder and harder to find somebody to work on these. Just like generator.

The two biggest things I notice that don't work on these old cruisers is speedos and fuel gauges.

 

[nuclearlemon]

it was while driving. we were on an entrance ramp to the highway.

 

[nuclearlemon]

annie was a big hit in her public debut today. we were in denver's st patty's day parade representing the colorado association of 4wd clubs. tons of love from the crowd and fellow participants

also got my bender yesterday, so set it up today. can't wait to visit the tube store

straightened out the front license plate frame and made a couple supports to weld in too. hoping to stave off the already starting notorious base cracks.

 

[PabloCruise]

annie was a big hit in her public debut today. we were in denver's st patty's day parade representing the colorado association of 4wd clubs. tons of love from the crowd and fellow participants

also got my bender yesterday, so set it up today. can't wait to visit the tube store

straightened out the front license plate frame and made a couple supports to weld in too. hoping to stave off the already starting notorious base cracks.

That is awesome Ige!!!

 

[zebrabeefj40]

Glad to see the tire made it in good shape. Looks way better on it's new home than hiding in my shop.

Nick

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

What's this?

Is the chrome box on the dash, some kind of aftermarket ashtray?

And any shots of you guys driving it in the parade?

Nice work, very envious of the amount of work you did in such a short time.

Dan

 

[nuclearlemon]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8405885&postcount=44

Yup...someone got a shot of us. And yup, shiny classic ashtray.

Thanks for the kudos. It's been a crazy two months. Would have been a ton worse, but new cars don't come apart as nice as she has.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

While Annie is now driveable/streetable, it still bothers me that she won't idle without the choke 1/2 way out. Pighead's general rule of thumb (on 2 barrel carbs) is that needing 1/2 choke to idle=vacuum leak (and requiring full choke to idle=bad fuel cut-off solenoid, which we don't have one anyway). So, pulled the vacuum line to the transfer case and plugged it with a bolt, took the hard vacuum line off the dizzy and put a vacuum gauge on it to try to rule out bad diaphragms.
Warmed her up, slight improvement, perhaps. Still requires choke to idle, maybe not quiet as much. Without the hardline on the dizzy, can retard timing enough to get the light on the BB. Can get the idle down to 650-700 RPM. Tach still wavers 25 to 50 and idle still seems "rough". A little more choke and idle comes up and smooths out.
Vacuum gauge (on the dizzy end of the hardline) shows 4"-5" of Hg at idle and climbs with throttle application. Normal on a D-40? Am used to no vacuum at idle from the carb.
I'm going to re-adjust the tappet clearance, see if that helps. Gotta take the top off the carb and reset the float (fuel level is a little high on the window) and thinking about changing the main jet to the big-hole one with the needle, see if that changes anything.
Also, as mentioned previously, currently at TDC #1, the dizzy rotor points directly at the block, not at #4 sparkplug, as I am used to. Thinking that I need to clock the dizzy counter-clockwise a tooth or two to keep the timing where I can see the BB without bending that hardline too much.
Comments and corrections gratefully accepted before I screw this up.

Did you ever figure this out? Did replacing the diaphragm in the t-case have any affect on the idle? I'm curious as my '63 is the same way, no matter what I do, it needs the choke pulled halfway to idle...if I'm on the freeway, I can close it (I guess I mean open it...you know what I mean), but that's about it.

Dan

 

[nuclearlemon]

Did you ever figure this out? Did replacing the diaphragm in the t-case have any affect on the idle? I'm curious as my '63 is the same way, no matter what I do, it needs the choke pulled halfway to idle...if I'm on the freeway, I can close it (I guess I mean open it...you know what I mean), but that's about it.

Dan

so far, no. still have to have a bit of choke. haven't done much outside of the minor vacuum leak yet tho