light harnes

[CruisinFJ60]

no problem at all and thank you and everyone else for your input!

nothing done so far today out of town all day for the last christmas i had with family and tonight a date with my better half (not my truck) i will start on them tomorrow however. well thats my goal.

 

[RockDoc]

Good luck with this.

With my experience putting together a kit for the headlights (https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-...s-fire-headlight-harness-upgrade-my-62-a.html) I would suggest a pre-assembled and tested harness would be the way to go. I spent about 6-8 hours assembling mine, and a great deal of time figuring out why they didn't work (mistakes in provided instructions).

Anything up to $100 would be a steal of a deal if all the components are quality. Up to $150 would probably still be worth it.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

thank you for the link i will read it for sure when i get home later tonight.
im not working with anyinstructions but once i get em all tested and going the way i want i will include a write up with as much information as possible and maybe a couple pictures as well to help out.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

ok i have a question for yall.

where is it that yall are picking up your power for your switched power or "trigger feed" wire for your aux light switch (the one that runs a 12v power through the switch).

i ask because in my vehicle i have an extra fuse block i have installed (page 1 post #12) and would like to know how yall would like to have that wire set up.

my thoughts are to have a female conector that would hook up to the switch and i can supply a splice conector (see below pic) for those of you that do not have have a fuse block like i do to pull power from.

thoughts?

 

[Marc311]

In the kit I got from Daniel Stern, he uses a male plug to got into the headlight plugs - aloowing you to tap any or all the Hi, Lo, Com wires. Then, he also includes new headlight plugs for the harness itself. The advantage of this, I think, is that it allows you to totally remove the harness if needed and all the stock wiring is intact.

Check out Post #3 in Roc Doc's thread for a better example.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-...s-fire-headlight-harness-upgrade-my-62-a.html

I realize your kit is also for aux lights - so maybe it wouldn't work.

I also would think those splice connectors won't fly with many people on this board. I have used those connectors and not had any problems, but I also know , many on this board prefer watertight/soldered connectors.

And by the way, I definitely think you should do this if you can price it competively.

Edit (Okay - I'm a moron and didn't notice Roc Doc posted his thread right above yours)

 

[CruisinFJ60]

i am only putting together the aux harness right now that is it.

i dont usually use the splice conectors either (thats why i have a fuse block that has its own power from the battery and does not touch factory wiring at all) but im thinking them to be included as an option might be nice for some. if they dont like them then they can toss em. just trying to think of a way that people would have everything they need less the switch at this point.

 

[CKaya84]

Just gonna throw this out there, but have you thought about making it fully scaleable? Such as going with a fuse/relay box from Painless wiring and having it setup under the hood with the switches running into the cabin. I know it will increase the price dramatically, but it would let you run more than just lights (e.g. onboard air compressor) if you wanted to.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

no i have not thought of anything as of that but i changed my mind on how i am doing the wiring on the aux. I made it into a switched ground (just like toyota uses from the factory) so your aux. (weather lights air compressor or whatever) will always have power and the ground will be intermitten when the ground is cut it loses the circuit and whatever you had on is now off. also by doing this you are able to get as much power to the aux as can be had as it will only run ground through the relay and less power will be lost in the process.



all i have to do now is cut my lengths and i should have something to show yall.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

little progress i got the main power wire measured out and cut gonna be 100" from alt to front bumper thats 8 feet 4 inches.

couple pics how i routed it to get my measurment.

as you can see i provided enough wire to go from alt through alt harness, through core support, down and below headlamp, across front skirt then to the front bumper.

 

[CKaya84]

Looks good man. I assume you're gonna run the wire through the conduit that is already there? Btw I noticed your yellow top is from 12/2005. Gotta love how long those buggers last.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

yup just getting lengths now but i made the wire long enough that way the purchaser could run them through there is wanted. (thats what i will do once i make one for my own truck.)

 

[CruisinFJ60]

IT IS COMPLETE!!

Pics to come shortly.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

the ones that i will make for others will have everything wire loomed or something of the sort to make it cleaner looking and i will be using some slightly better conectors. also i wont have that sodered area exposed and where all of mt conections are will be heat shrinked to keep em nice and tight.

now pics.

complete full harness layed out

wire that conects to alternator with inline fuse

relay my finger on chasis ground

power wire that feeds relay coming from inline fuse

switched ground coming from inside cab to relay

same as above just the end that will conect to the switch in the cab.

switched ground from relay that will complete the system turning on lights.

power...

ground... switch and relay ground...

Sucess!

full test layout.

Who wants one?!?

I think I can make these available for roughly $30-$40 range after i add in the price of the nicer conectors heat shrink and wire loom. shipping cant be much either but i dont know if that price will include shipping as of yet.

**this is for the aux light harness**

 

[CruisinFJ60]

making a couple of changes to the harness nothing super major just tweaking it, and cleaning it all up.

I will be making another tomorrow for another 60 getting a vortec, link to thread ----> https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/183953-white-ghost-gets-second-chance.html (yours truly pic 1 post 11) so hopefully it will be put to good use! please check out the build thread on the truck if you havent already Randy (iaintscared1969) has done alot of really nice work.

Stay Tuned!!!
i will be starting on the headlamp harness hopefully tomorrow after i fix my intake leak on my 60.

 

[CKaya84]

Looking really good man. If I wasn't doing a relay box I would buy from you. Don't forget shrink tubing on the production models at all connector points.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

thanks for the props. yea shrink tubing and insulated conectors will be one of the more obvious changes.

I also figured out my headlight harness upgrades as well. and should have some measurements and hopefully a proto of that as well here soon. I actually got one into another 60 from part of the pre exsisting headlamp harnes upgrade that was there but not 100% correct.

I got my diag drawn but no lengths on wire yet but should know later this week.
I beleive Mark mmw68 will be running one of my headlamp harness on his 40 and maybe he can do a write up for me on the install and if it was easy or not. and Meatloafs truck the White Ghost will be getting one of my Aux light harness and i think Randy was gonna do a write up on that as well for everyone in his vortec swap thread.

Also when i have them ready the high and low beams will work (duh a must) AND the high beam indicator will work. I know many people have had trouble with that portion and i figured out the trick to make em work!


stay tuned not much longer.

 

[steveLX450]

Hey I got a question,you said:
I made it into a switched ground (just like toyota uses from the factory) so your aux. (weather lights air compressor or whatever) will always have power and the ground will be intermitten when the ground is cut it loses the circuit and whatever you had on is now off. also by doing this you are able to get as much power to the aux as can be had as it will only run ground through the relay and less power will be lost in the process.
.
Arent some aux. lights (air compressor)grounded through thier housing and mounting bolts ??
Also why do you conect the load wire to the altternator,and not the battery post?
I'm new at this posting so I hope it's close to right....

 

[iaintscared1969]

Posting to the battery adds additional load on the entire system. When you run to the Alt. It will regulate direct current for the added draw. Shortest distance between to points kinda thing. Less wire to travel.

 

[CruisinFJ60]

exactly what randy said up above. also the alternator wont build up corosion like the battery can sometimes.

and for those that have lights that are grounded through the housing it is a easy switch back to make it so it isnt a switched ground but then a switched power.

and of course if there are any issues or questions with one of my harness im always available just shoot me a pm or call my cell phone and i can walk you through the whole thing.

Im glad you brought this up as i will now include in my instructions for instalation how to switch it to a switched power for those running self grounding lights.

the Aux harness are now ready so for anyone wanting one please shoot me a PM I have 2 going out this week and 1 head light harness that needs measurments.

i should have a final price on the aux harness tonight.

 

[steveLX450]

Posting to the battery adds additional load on the entire system. When you run to the Alt. It will regulate direct current for the added draw. Shortest distance between to points kinda thing. Less wire to travel.

.
Tapping directly off the alternator is not a good idea;
Your going through more wiring,when the key is off,aux.lights on(OR WHAT EVER LOAD, AIR COMP.), the charge wire that goes from the alternator stud to the battery is now a load wire for the lights=voltage drop.I would never connect directly to the alternator stud,stacking wire eyelets on the stud only adds to possible less voltage output to the battery(poor conections,more heat at the stud)You will have less voltage drop going to the battery post than the alternator stud.I think this is the shortest route to voltage....
I dont think it lessens the load on the entire system,if anything it will overwork your alternator constantly..just my .02 cents.
steve