Lift sizing. (1 Viewer)

[91cruisin]

I need help deciding on a lift size. I don’t do much off roading but lots of overlanding.

deciding between the ome 850/863 2.5 inch lift and the dobinsons 3 inch. I just bought new 305/70/16 (33’s) tires as I needed some immediately so I’d like to stick with those for a while. I do want to upgrade to 35’s in the future though. Should I go with the 3 inch or the 2.5 inch to overland comfortable with 35’s in the future?

thanks for your time guys, hoping I can work something out.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

I would recommend the 3" if your serious about stepping up to the 315/35" tires in the future.

A lot of people will post on here claiming they can run 35"s tires with a 2" lift and no rubbing. I say BS, if you do any real offroading other than mall flexing than you will rub with 35"s and a 2" lift unless you do some bump stop extensions.

I am currently running a 2" lift with an extra 30mm spacer in the front and 315's. Although I can clear the tires when flexing I had to extend my bump stops 1" to stop my front tires from rubbing when I would bottom out the front shocks going through small dips in the road with any kind of speed.

 

[baldilocks]

305 or 315 what’s the difference? For over landing, the lowest lift and smallest tires you can possibly run would be best. A winch and those silly maxtrax things will be your friends.

Edit: the smallest tire you approve of.

Compiled 80 series suspension component spec thread... shocks, coils & more.

80 series coil & shock specs A few years back 80 series suspension was fairly easy to figure out & purchase since there was only a few of options to chose from. Recently there has been a few suppliers stepping up to play in the USA 80 series market offering more options. Now with a plethora of...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[TWILLY]

305 or 315 what’s the difference. For over landing, the lowest lift and smallest tires you can possibly run would be best. A winch and those silly maxtrax things will be your friends.

For dirt road driving, there's something to be said for the suspension gains of running a larger tire at lower pressure, even if only a 32 or 33. I find it helps take a lot of jarring stress off of the truck to have tires doing much of the work.

 

[Broski]

35s and the three inch lift. You know you want it!! And the 80 was made for it,they just plane look good with bigger tires and a lift

 

[leonard_nemoy]

This thread has got me thinking......

I think we need a sticky thread at the top of the forum with an official definition for "Overlanding"

As much as I hate to admit it, I feel like a lot of the off-road driving I do could be considered "Overlanding". Lots of miles on the dirt but not a lot of technical crawling. Except for the times my friends talk me into the occasional Sand Hollow run.

But maybe "Overlanding" means something else to other members.

 

[Comet]

Run what you brung and see if you even need a lift. Seriously, the lift and bigger tires thing is just a passing fad. Worse gas mileage, driveline vibrations, frustration of wearing a flat bill cap (uneven pressure on my head). Its all crazy...unless you hate driving one of the most capable rigs in stock form. I got the Dobinsons lift and netted 1.5 over stock and run 285’s that look bad a$$. Next set of tires for me are pizza cutters.

 

[jpoole]

I got the Dobinsons lift and netted 1.5 over stock

Which springs gave you that amount of lift and how stock or loaded is your 80?

My goal when I put on new springs is to keep overall lift under 2" and hopefully avoid needing to mess around with secondary changes besides possibly a bit of caster correction as I like slower steering anyway. Sorry if you've posted this in the lift threads/etc. I've been reading through those but they get long and every truck seems to have different weights/etc. while most folks also are adding more lift than I'm targeting.

 

[BILT4ME]

Which springs gave you that amount of lift and how stock or loaded is your 80?

My goal when I put on new springs is to keep overall lift under 2" and hopefully avoid needing to mess around with secondary changes besides possibly a bit of caster correction as I like slower steering anyway. Sorry if you've posted this in the lift threads/etc. I've been reading through those but they get long and every truck seems to have different weights/etc. while most folks also are adding more lift than I'm targeting.

Also realize that each person posting is advising how much lift they got. Then you must interpret what they mean by that.

The replacement springs are how much lift over NEW STOCK height at curb weight, not over old, saggy-assed springs that have been under an overloaded truck for 25 years.

I got close to 3" lift over my saggy-assed springs, but the OME's I used 850 / 863 are listed as 2.5" IIRC.

I also carry about 600 LB of crap in the back of my LC at almost all times and I did not measure it before or after with all the crap out of the truck.

SO, when you read the lift information from the vendors it is over original factory height. That's why "every truck is different".

 

[jpoole]

Also realize that each person posting is advising how much lift they got. Then you must interpret what they mean by that.

Totally. I've been reading about 80 springs for years now and have replaced springs/etc. on many vehicles over the decades and know that the actual lift height you get can always vary from what you expect and often settles within the first months/year as well.

I love being able to slowly accumulate knowledge via this forum though and when someone posts 1.5" it's a possibly relevant data point for me. I also like that there are more options available these days vs. just OE and OME which seemed like the main players for so long. Progressive Dobinsons seem to get solid reviews and are high on my list though OME springs are on the list as well. The fact that so many change shocks with springs definitely muddies the water on how much differently one set of springs may actually feel from another and in the end the differences in reported "feel" may be mostly from shocks vs. springs.

I'm still adding "stuff" to my 80 (ordered sliders today) and won't be changing springs until I'm at final setup/weight and know which springs seem "best". For now I'm on stock tire size, stock/original springs with OEM/new shocks and 1" spring spacers on all 4 corners. I also have airbags in the rear to manage loads/towing. Overall weight is close to stock and it handles and drives great and is likely pretty close to stock height. I wanted to run the rig as the designers intended for a few years before making any mods so that I had a good feel for handling/braking/etc. and I really like how it performs with the current setup.

 

[on the rocks]

I think leonard_nemoy' approach is a good idea, especially if on a budget. Start with 2" or 2.5" for your 33's and add 30MM spacers when you make the jump to 35's or even swap the springs at that time. More importantly I would get your panhards and control arms sorted now and make sure you go all adjustable so you can make the necessary adjustments when you go bigger. You mention overlanding which to me is camping and a loaded up 80. So consider heavy springs in the rear and deal with stinkbug or better yet plan on bag inserts in the rear to accommodate the sag when loaded. I personally hate the stinkbug look so went bags a long time ago and they held up well. 20 years later they are finally developing a leak. Plan an OBA into the mix and make sure you consider airing up the tires whether you air down or not. It's always good insurance. For the front arms I don't like the castor correction personally, really do your homework here and possibly go 4" arms knowing you will continue to gain or simply do the body mount drop brackets offered here knowing you can change the arms later and this should get your caster close until you move again.
I always get sucked into these lift threads just trying to help and have been there done that but most importantly search, and search alot. When you find someone that posted results here PM them and ask how their setup went and take your own path doing what works for you.
That or return the 33's and dive right into the 35's, if your already wanting to go there why wait?

 

[toddsmith1]

I just installed the full 3"Flexicoil lift on my truck and run 305's. The ride is fantastic. If you plan to tow or have a really heavy truck, you may not want to run the Flexi. I wanted a better day to day ride. If I need to tow or add extra weight. I have airbags for that

 

[Broski]

This thread has got me thinking......

I think we need a sticky thread at the top of the forum with an official definition for "Overlanding"

As much as I hate to admit it, I feel like a lot of the off-road driving I do could be considered "Overlanding". Lots of miles on the dirt but not a lot of technical crawling. Except for the times my friends talk me into the occasional Sand Hollow run.

But maybe "Overlanding" means something else to other members.

Run what you brung and see if you even need a lift. Seriously, the lift and bigger tires thing is just a passing fad. Worse gas mileage, driveline vibrations, frustration of wearing a flat bill cap (uneven pressure on my head). Its all crazy...unless you hate driving one of the most capable rigs in stock form. I got the Dobinsons lift and netted 1.5 over stock and run 285’s that look bad a$$. Next set of tires for me are pizza cutters.

Definitely not a passing fad, while smaller lifts LSOG are popular even manufacturers are putting bigger and bigger tires on 4x4s.
Had my first set of 36” in 1978, so I don’t think it a passing fad.
Bigger tires work, plain and simple.

 

[BILT4ME]

Definitely not a passing fad, while smaller lifts LSOG are popular even manufacturers are putting bigger and bigger tires on 4x4s.
Had my first set of 36” in 1978, so I don’t think it a passing fad.
Bigger tires work, plain and simple.

Especially in the mud.

I have only run 33" tires on all my trucks over the years, due to choice and use, however, when it came to the ruts in deep mud, those with the biggest tires "win" every time. If I try to follow any of those, then I drag and get high centered, so I end up avoiding and taking other lines. I always cringe when I want to go somewhere when someone on 40's went through it in the not so distant past. There is no way I will make it through.

On the rocks it becomes a ground clearance issue. Suspension will help with the center of the truck, but only larger tires (or portal axles) can raise the differentials to clear rocs, logs, or whatever on the trail.

The challenge is to get your axles as high as you can, your frame clearance as high as you can, keep your COG low, AND make it have good manners on the highway. It doesn't always work for all aspects, as there is compromise somewhere.

 

[Heckraiser]

Overlanding = car camping with some non-pavement driving. This can be done in any vehicle including a chrysler minivan or a volvo 740 wagon (a couple of the best "overlanders" I've used). All the crap people bolt onto their trucks is just to accessorize or look cool on instagram. No different from the F-150 you might have seen in the late 80's or early 90's with the entire JC Whitney catalog thrown at it: bed-mount roll bar, KC daylighters, "bigfoot" pedals, windshile visor, chrome exhaust tips, etc. More about style than function.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Overlanding = car camping with some non-pavement driving. This can be done in any vehicle including a chrysler minivan or a volvo 740 wagon (a couple of the best "overlanders" I've used). All the crap people bolt onto their trucks is just to accessorize or look cool on instagram. No different from the F-150 you might have seen in the late 80's or early 90's with the entire JC Whitney catalog thrown at it: bed-mount roll bar, KC daylighters, "bigfoot" pedals, windshile visor, chrome exhaust tips, etc. More about style than function.

I bet Chuck Norris owned this Ford.