Lifetime of plastic T heater hose connector??

[Kernal]

Coming over from the Dark side to ask the Hundy forum a question. AFAIK there's a factory plastic T connector in the heater hose circuit in some/all years with the V8?? Is that correct?

If that's correct, has anyone found/determined the lifespan of that plastic T? In other words, how long does it last before it fails or needs to be replaced: # of years??

Reason I'm asking: in the 80 series there'a brass T in the heater system that can corrode but doesn't fail catastrophically. The replacement however is now plastic.

So has anyone found a failed plastic T heater hose connector in their 100 series and if so, when did it fail, after 10, 15, 20 years?? I tried a search but didn't come up with anything.

Thanks

 

[MycoManiac]

just do it with the 90k service

The plastics on these dont always show how brittle they are, which can lead folks to think theyre fine. If you have some miles on your current ones, try taking them out and seeing how many pieces it comes out in.

No idea the age lifespan, but 10 years for any plastic that gets hot is a lot.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

It fails for sure. It’s a mixed bag. Not seen any fail in less than 10 years. My wife’s hundy failed after 18 years.

 

[Kernal]

OK. Thanks. I did some more searching and found the answer, they of course do age as expected. (just like the plastic heat control valve in the 80 series).

What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

If that is a 555 branded ball joint? Those things are not painted at all and get surface rust in no time at all. You got it right. What y’all used to paint that?

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[bamabrock]

FAQ - 100-series FAQ

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Njck22]

easier to access and give a good shake to see if it breaks on the 80 series vs. the 100.

 

[Kernal]

The original 80 series heater hose T is brass but NLA and the replacement T is unfortunately now the same part as the 100 series, plastic, hence my question.

Will just have to monitor it every few years just like the 80 series heat control valve which turns shades of tan/brown before it fails.

Thanks to all, got my question answered.

 

[MycoManiac]

OK. Thanks. I did some more searching and found the answer, they of course do age as expected. (just like the plastic heat control valve in the 80 series).

What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

If that is a 555 branded ball joint? Those things are not painted at all and get surface rust in no time at all. You got it right. What y’all used to paint that?

forum.ih8mud.com

The original 80 series heater hose T is brass but NLA and the replacement T is unfortunately now the same part as the 100 series, plastic, hence my question.

Will just have to monitor it every few years just like the 80 series heat control valve which turns shades of tan/brown before it fails.

Thanks to all, got my question answered.

I know your question is answered, but folks here have found a brass workaround for the 100 tee as well. I’ll have to dig.

 

[Kernal]

OK, standing by.

 

[hoser]

The original 80 series heater hose T is brass but NLA and the replacement T is unfortunately now the same part as the 100 series, plastic, hence my question.

Will just have to monitor it every few years just like the 80 series heat control valve which turns shades of tan/brown before it fails.

Thanks to all, got my question answered.

If you buy the entire 80 series heater hose assembly, it should come with the brass T.... or at least it did 6 months ago.

87209-60290

 

[GTV]

 

[MarkTR]

Buying the 80 hose kit is the way too expensive way to go- but I was throwing so much money at my '05 LX the first two months, that is the route I took along with new hoses and clamps.

Here are the three choices I considered.

 

[hoser]

it’s not expensive for an 80 owner (OP) as the entire assembly is used. The 100 owner would bastardize it just for the Tee.

 

[Kernal]

I actually have one of those assemblies with the brass T packed away in the parts stash but then had recently gotten a bunch of unused heater hoses separately from someone selling his NOS parts after he got rid of his 80.

Then considered using the plastic T (and saving the assembly for the future) partly because the brass T does corrode and turns green, but AFAIK they rarely actually fail. Then remembered how the plastic heat control valve in an 80 series distintegrates with age causing the side pipes/nipples to burst without warning, so figured the plastic T would likely age the same.

But wanted to get some actual use data from over here in the 100 forum to see if anyone knew how long the plastic T's actually did last. As discussed above it was confirmed that yes, they do crumble with age just like anything else made of plastic and exposed to hot coolant.

So there you have it.

I went ahead and cleaned and sanded the old brass T then painted it with a 2k Epoxy primer and paint. That should decrease future corrosion to some extent and I won't have to worry about it failing catastrophically like the plastic T.

Makes sense??

Thanks for the input.

 

[2001LC]

Life of plastic TEEs.

That depends on a few things:

Properly maintained coolant system (no air in coolant system is very important, flushed on scheduled, thermostat, cap and reservoir all in proper working order). Get us the most life from plastic.

I find the older 98-03, which coolant systems calls for Toy LL (red) flushed earlier of 2yr or 30K miles. Last a very long time, possible ~25 years.

Whereas I see the 04-07, which use Toy SLL (pink) flushed earlier of 10yr or 100K miles 1st time, than 5yr or 50K thereafter. Fails in ~12 yrs, in properly maintained system.

Some say it's due to change in plastic. I suspect is has to do with depletion of plasticize.

Rule of thumb, as mentioned above:
R&R with every 90K miles service.
R&R if unknown when last replaced, replace them.

 

[Natesfj40]

My tees ended up turning into a crunchy wax-like consistency. I wish I would have replaced them when I swapped the radiator earlier in the year. Had I done that I’d have saved the cost of replacing radiator fluid I.e. hassle.

Opted to flush the system of the broken bits that got loose.

Went with OEM Toyota parts as the original appear to have 230k on them.

Easy maintenance.

 

[Mike NXP]

I'm going on 220k with my stock plastic tees and I refuse to change them out just out of spite

 

[Natesfj40]

I'm going on 220k with my stock plastic tees and I refuse to change them out just out of spite

Sounds like you are married to your Land Cruiser.

 

[Kamran Khan]

Try these. The T pipes I replaced are not welded like other and it comes in as machined without weld. Welded brass T pipes can fail under stress or heat.
I already have link to T pipes in my Youtube video.

 

[uHu]

Funny thing - never heard of a T-pipe failing on a diesel. The HDJ100 has the same Tees as the UZJ100, the 87248-60460. What makes them last longer - maybe just that the climate around here is cooler? But the coolant would be around 80 C / 175 F in any case.
Knock on wood - tomorrow my Tees will fail...