Builds LHD HZJ73 Refresh (1 Viewer)

[Felde]

I'd check on the e-brake switch. It is located on a bracket under the lever inside that leather-like boot. It gets pushed on by the lever when this is lowered to disengage the e-brake.
Sometimes the boot however pushes the lever back up just a bit, causing it the switch to flicker.
I have the same issue on my rig.

When the light is on unexpectedly, push down the e-brake lever manually. If it shuts off, this is the culprit.
Cheers Ralf

 

[Kaderabek]

I'd check on the e-brake switch. It is located on a bracket under the lever inside that leather-like boot. It gets pushed on by the lever when this is lowered to disengage the e-brake.
Sometimes the boot however pushes the lever back up just a bit, causing it the switch to flicker.
I have the same issue on my rig.

When the light is on unexpectedly, push down the e-brake lever manually. If it shuts off, this is the culprit.
Cheers Ralf

Interesting - thank you. I've been assuming this was not the culprit because the light doesn't come on when I set the brake. The only time it comes on is when I turn the key and wait for the glow plug light to go out. Worth a shot though!

 

[onemanarmy]

my favorite part of this build? That nifty cup holder.

 

[Kaderabek]

my favorite part of this build? That nifty cup holder.

Seriously. Nice touch from @wngrog for sure. It also keeps my phone from flying around. And I know how it works and it doesn't turn on confusing red lights.

 

[onemanarmy]

I'd check on the e-brake switch. It is located on a bracket under the lever inside that leather-like boot. It gets pushed on by the lever when this is lowered to disengage the e-brake.
Sometimes the boot however pushes the lever back up just a bit, causing it the switch to flicker.
I have the same issue on my rig.

When the light is on unexpectedly, push down the e-brake lever manually. If it shuts off, this is the culprit.
Cheers Ralf

I have an intermittent issue with the switch being pushed on by the boot on my 62.

 

[Felde]

Interesting - thank you. I've been assuming this was not the culprit because the light doesn't come on when I set the brake. The only time it comes on is when I turn the key and wait for the glow plug light to go out. Worth a shot though!

Mhmm. Interesting in return..
You also say it doesn't come on from the Reservoir switch on low fluid (or cap removed) either...
But it does randomly come on with no good reason..
So, probably you should first try to force it to correct operation:
The light gets positive current within the dash.
All those sensors on reservoir and lever are simple switches that provide negative (ground) (!) to the dash light, when engaged. (Wire colorcode is W-B White Black)
That means:
A) If you take off the connector from the switch (one by one) and simple bridge the contacts in it, the dasg light should come on. If it doesn't, there is either a ground issue from the connector towards the battery negative (W-B White-black cable) , or a connection issue from the other pin towards the light (R-W red-white cable in my BJ73).
You can rule out the first by metering the conductivity of thw W-B to ground on each switch. If that is ruled out and the switch and swimmer and stuff is also taken out of the game, only the connection towards the light can be faulty then.
B) If the light comes on occasionally and not properly triggered by the sensor switches, it must get a faulty ground (negative) from somwhere occasionally.

All in all I guess:
The R-W wires from both switches are supposed to join at or near the dash light towards the bulb's negative contact. (Unfortunately I have no clue where exactly that would be!) Probably those came off in that spot, causing neither of the switches to 'get to' the bulb any more, causing none of the sensors to work.
Probably there now is a loose, exposed end of cable on the bulb, which occasionally makes contact to the metal dash, and thus eliminates the bulb with no good reason.
My 2 cents
Good Luck. Gremlins are weired. Ralf

 

[Felde]

And.. Great to hear your back is on a good way. All the best for you to fully recover so you can enjoy your Cruiser again.

 

[Rigster]

Interesting - thank you. I've been assuming this was not the culprit because the light doesn't come on when I set the brake. The only time it comes on is when I turn the key and wait for the glow plug light to go out. Worth a shot though!

Hey bud,

When I replaced some brake lines with the lift I did, I noticed the light comes on BEFORE the level hits the low line in the reservoir, so the sensor seems pretty sensitive. As soon as I topped it up again the light went out for me. I would start there as that is the no-sweat, no knuckle-bashing solution that we all love best!

 

[Kaderabek]

Mhmm. Interesting in return..
You also say it doesn't come on from the Reservoir switch on low fluid (or cap removed) either...
But it does randomly come on with no good reason..
So, probably you should first try to force it to correct operation:
The light gets positive current within the dash.
All those sensors on reservoir and lever are simple switches that provide negative (ground) (!) to the dash light, when engaged. (Wire colorcode is W-B White Black)
That means:
A) If you take off the connector from the switch (one by one) and simple bridge the contacts in it, the dasg light should come on. If it doesn't, there is either a ground issue from the connector towards the battery negative (W-B White-black cable) , or a connection issue from the other pin towards the light (R-W red-white cable in my BJ73).
You can rule out the first by metering the conductivity of thw W-B to ground on each switch. If that is ruled out and the switch and swimmer and stuff is also taken out of the game, only the connection towards the light can be faulty then.
B) If the light comes on occasionally and not properly triggered by the sensor switches, it must get a faulty ground (negative) from somwhere occasionally.

All in all I guess:
The R-W wires from both switches are supposed to join at or near the dash light towards the bulb's negative contact. (Unfortunately I have no clue where exactly that would be!) Probably those came off in that spot, causing neither of the switches to 'get to' the bulb any more, causing none of the sensors to work.
Probably there now is a loose, exposed end of cable on the bulb, which occasionally makes contact to the metal dash, and thus eliminates the bulb with no good reason.
My 2 cents
Good Luck. Gremlins are weired. Ralf

First, this information is greatly appreciated. I appreciate you taking the time. My two takeaways are this:

1) Clearly you are an engineer and I need to have my engineer son translate this.

2) If any of this is the case, the "electrical" portion of this repair will be a piece of electric tape over the light!

I also appreciate your comments on my spine. Getting old is overrated sometimes!

Cheers!

TJK

 

[Kaderabek]

Hey bud,

When I replaced some brake lines with the lift I did, I noticed the light comes on BEFORE the level hits the low line in the reservoir, so the sensor seems pretty sensitive. As soon as I topped it up again the light went out for me. I would start there as that is the no-sweat, no knuckle-bashing solution that we all love best!

I put some brake fluid in and the problem disappeared, By that I mean, I bought some brake fluid and put it on the front seat and the light has been out ever since.

Oh wait, it's back on. Will be topping it off tonight.

Thanks!

 

[Felde]

First, this information is greatly appreciated. I appreciate you taking the time. My two takeaways are this:

1) Clearly you are an engineer and I need to have my engineer son translate this.

2) If any of this is the case, the "electrical" portion of this repair will be a piece of electric tape over the light!

I also appreciate your comments on my spine. Getting old is overrated sometimes!

Cheers!

TJK

A) you are right. I'm an engineer in IT analytics. Damn. Is it that obvious ?
B) you are very welcome.
Cheers Ralf

 

[svsisu]

First, this information is greatly appreciated. I appreciate you taking the time. My two takeaways are this:

1) Clearly you are an engineer and I need to have my engineer son translate this.

2) If any of this is the case, the "electrical" portion of this repair will be a piece of electric tape over the light!

I also appreciate your comments on my spine. Getting old is overrated sometimes!

Cheers!

TJK

2) This is always the best option for annoying lights in the dash. In fact, it reminds me I need two pieces of electrical tape for lights in my tacoma. Of course this solution has a corollary; turning up the volume on the stereo for strange intermittent sounds (or persistent ones) that come from under the hood, from the drive train, or the gear box.

 

[JuanJ]

Good Luck. Gremlins are weired. Ralf

Hello,

Some gremlins, especially electrical ones, are very hard to kill.

A 40 Series truck usually has a resident gremlin, despite the owner's efforts.

A few 70 Series have resident gremlins as well.





Juan

 

[JuanJ]

Hello,

Forgive me if I am stating the obvious here.

This is a guide for Toyota wire color code.

1. Black: B.
2. Brown: BR.
3. Gray: GR.
4. Blue: L.
5. Light Green: LG.
6. Orange: O.
7. Pink: P.
8. Red: R.
9. Violet: V.
10. Yellow: Y.
11. White: W.
12. Green: G.

Some wires have a color stripe. For instance, a black wire with a yellow stripe (used in the ignition) is referred to as B-Y in the diagrams.

It comes in handy when reading wiring diagrams.







Juan

 

[Kaderabek]

Thank you, Juan!

 

[Kaderabek]

Filled the reservoir to the maximum mark, light still on.

Filled the reservoir beyond the maximum level, light is gone (and has been all day).

Pretty sure, problem solved. Thanks very much for all the assistance.

 

[FJ73Texas]

Here is the link I just bought mine from.

84460-12070 Toyota Cap assy, brake master cylinder reservoir filler 8446012070, | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/334296896222 automotomarine_store claims to be megazip's ebay storefront. I have bought many things from this seller without any issue.

This cap came in a few days ago. I didn't install it but it is exactly what was advertised.

 

[Kaderabek]

Yep - got mine too. The newspaper packaging materials were very entertaining.

 

[shellb]

 

[Kaderabek]

I'm so glad it made it safely. If you can do one thing to make this thread happy, install the soft top.

I do want to thank everyone who chimed in here to help this 70 series newbie. I very much appreciate it and will be back with another 70 at some point. This trade was kismet for both of us - couldn't pass it up.

Cheers to all!