@62LostInMn There is a desmog guide specific to FJ62s that was posted here 3F-E Desmog. It's what I followed and it brakes up the process into a couple of segments, if you don't want to do it all at once.
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OK - you got me Captain Obvious...
I suppose the only "maybe" is if the EGR is stuck partially open... We'll give it a try and see what happens.
Will the desmog process be similar enough on a 1fzfe? My problem with the smog system is not so much what it does to the engine but that all the hoses and pumps etc are always in my way and make my engine look dirty for lack of a better term. Better mileage and a better running engine sounds great thoughThis is for some deeper discussion for me as I under stand how to do it. and have the desmog guide for the 3fe.
1. what I know, the 3fe is designed to run desmoged, I will get better power, smother running, and possibly better over all mileage but this is debatable and not really important.
2. I have a good idea how to do it and what parts are needed. per the desmog guide floating around the forum. if anyone wants it ill be happy to send it to you.
what I need to know/ want to discuss
1 is there really a reason to remove the smog pump if its not connected to anything.
2 how long does it really take for the ecu to learn, and how quickly will it forget when battery is disconnected.
3 why are most so scared of it
4 is there any real reason not to other than if you live in an area that tests emissions
5 is it possible or worth it to track down a non us ecu, or are there any better after market ecus that could be used and maybe use a mas air flow meter vs the afm which is impossible to find new and when you can its outrageously expensive.
8 seconds to 60 mph, eh? Musta been one helluva hill. Motorweek tested a new one in 1989 at 14.2 seconds.As I understand it. Whether or not there is better performance. If all components are original you may see a slight increase in mpg or performance due to old broken components causing a performance drain. How ever for me tha major reason is the engine is a tractor engine and it doesn't matter what u do it's gonna be bad for the trees and if u own one u probably don't care. It's a pet of automotive history and if you want real performance and better trees swap the engine for a new v8. And 2 I already have some fuel and idol problems so it will be elimating dozens of fail points and reliability is my main concern. If I get better performance than great but my 3fe already drives better and faster than most people describe. I can get 60mph in about 8 secconds and I don't really wanna ask why. Though I've never had better then 10 mpg in traffic or highway it's a dead 10 mpg which with my fuel issues has dropped to 8. which I think is some of my old ecu sensors which I'm in the middle of replacing
Also my MPG increased and it ran better. But if your 3fe is well running and without issues my guess is it won't improve. But I do believe taking out the EGR will increase MPG. Putting only fresh air into the combustion cycle is better than previously burned poison. My belief.
You may be right, but the point of EGR is to slow the combustion process (by introducing a less combustible gas) to prevent spark knock and lower combustion temps to prevent NOX formation.
Regarding desmogging, with a totally stock engine, at least you can troubleshoot using standard procedures, without wondering if your mods are affecting engine performance. It's a tractor motor that will never win any races, any way you slice it.
Is that the little cylindrical canister behind the headlight?
Removed all the smog system from my 3FE when it had 280K miles, and it ran the same before and after. on the next two motors (one with 5K mile and the other currently at about 6K) neither have any smog components either. Stock USA ECU is fine, only possible issue is if you have a California ECU it might want to see a reading from the EGR temperate sender? I don't actually know though.
Nice benefit of removing the smog pump is that you can put a second alternator there.
I pulled everything off mine the other week because the air rail had melted the wire harness and was causing a lot of hate and discontent. While I had the upper intake off some things went away.None of it worked right before so no change in running, power, mileage, etc. As others have noted, you pick up a lot of space without that stuff in the way. Yes a CA ECU will throw code 71 when the EGR isn't working. Mine did before and it still does. I haven't fixed that yet - but you should be able to replace the sensor with a resistor of the correct value to keep your CEL off.
Some of the emissions components on the 3F-E are actuated by engine vacuum. The vacuum is the force that pulls a diaphragm that makes something move.
The vacuum travels through the thin black vacuum hoses to wherever. When a ball bearing (3/16" for oem vacuum hose, 5/32" for silicone vac hose) is jammed in a hose, the vacuum is blocked which disables it's attached component. Blocking certain vacuum hoses is how some emissions components are disabled.
(BTW, an air gun bb is too small)
4 is there any real reason not to other than if you live in an area that tests emissions
If this passes, many states/localities may restart testing (even if ozone is more of an evap. thing than a tailpipe thing): After Years Of Bipartisan Opposition, EPA May Reconsider Strict Federal Ozone Standard