Builds Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser (14 Viewers)

[rannon]

I have an Innova 3551 inductive timing light, it's the most basic one and currently available for about $45 online I got it second hand at the RE-Store in Bellingham for about $10. All I've ever needed it to do is flash the light, but I've only changed the timing on my LC and my 1990 DLX Pickup which has the 22-re and is INCREDIBLY similar to the 1FZ-FE in terms of function and layout. Im not sure what the digital timing lights would be able to offer or if they are compatible with th obd1 1FZ-FE. Im sure folks will hav an opinion, but I like this one and would replace it with the same model. It has survived a number of falls and still work fine.

Excellent - thanks for the information - I'll pick up one of those!

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I have a cheapo timing light that works okay, but I recently picked up a nicer one that has digital display, shows rpm and is adjustable so you can be precise (within one degree) on your adjustments.

After reading up on timing lights I would pony up for one that has a tachometer. i think this is good advice!

 

[rannon]

After reading up on timing lights I would pony up for one that has a tachometer. i think this is good advice!

Done and done!

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Let’s play a guessing game…

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I have my own guess…

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Story Time

TLDR: The LC has a failed HG and is Hydrolocked. Currently researching a competent mechanic in the twin cities metro area. I am unable to tackle the HG repair myself (sadly) due to time and space constraints here in my MN house. Looking for suggustions on impoirtinat things to consider for outsourcing the HG job. Read on for the long-winded version.

So yesterday was a s*** show. My HG failed in my driveway. Since I replaced the fan clutch, added the temp sensor sender, and changed the oil and coolant I haven't really driven the rig. So I decided to drive it to pick up my kid from school. After start up it idled rough, but nothing crazy. It drove fine and had reasonable power. No issues starting again at the school. Then drove my youngest to his martial arts class in the middle of a massive set of thunderstorms. Drove the Cruiser home to change back into street clothes and then to my oldest's choir concert.

When I tried to start the LC it cranked and made a terrible clicking/groaning noise and I immeadiatly let off on the key instinctually thinking it was already running. But it wasn't. Tried to crank and Clickclickclickclick. Tried again and nothing. At this point I have 21 minutes until I'm supposed to be seated watching my oldest's performance. ITs also POURING and thundering. I was thinking that the starter may have been the culprit at this point and I grab a hammer and give it a few healthy whacks. No luck. Try the key again. No luck. Try one more time and it fires up. Thinking I'm all set I move the cruiser out of the driveway and it is running so rough. I back it up and decide I need to park it on the street so I can unblock the 1990 pickup and take it to the concert. I turn the rig around and get it all parked and notice a massive cloud of steam, or white smoke. It's difficult to tell since it is raining torrentially. Make it to the concert with 3 minutes to spare.

This morning I tried to pull codes, but nothing. I checked the dipstick and the oil seemed a little thin. I checked the cap and found an emulsion of foamy oil on the cap. I pulled NO. 1 spark plug and could see red coolant pooled on top of the piston. Ack.

So here is where I'm at. The LC has as far as I can tell a failed head gasket. It would not start last night because it was hydrolocked. I forced it to start and drove it 25' to get it parked and shut it down. I m concerned about that. I actually think that the HG blew when it over heated. The oil looked ok, but I'm assuming this extra heat was the failing point. When I drained that original oil I do remember finding some funk under the cap. I expected the drained oil to look terrible and I lost track of it. Fortunately I took a picture (apparently to tell my future self you missed this!).

When I look at it now I feel fairly foolish that I dismissed/ lost track of this. I assume that the oil analysis I'm waiting on from Blackstone will confirm that there was coolant contaminating the oil.

Ok the really terrible news here is that I am unable to take on the HG myself. I was going to order that Wit's End poster and everything.....oh wait. In all seriousness I am pretty disappointed I can't pull the engine and go thing it slowly and make it perfect. I don't really have the time to do this right now and even more importantly I don't have the space to do this. MY long 1 car wide driveway in MN has no room for a non working LC to live in it for weeks (likely months at my pace) and my extra s***ty 1 car garage wold make a poor place to pull this engine and do the work. We have a major yard project underway and blocking the driveway would make the LC a multi-factor problem.

Sooooo, now I'm shopping for a shop to do the HG repair. I have one place that I'm going to call. They were willing to do the work on my A/C compressor and suggested I may want to bring my own parts. I have had them work on my little truck before and they were fine. MIL had them do work on their cars for a very long time--mostly rusty camrys. Another shop that a forum member recommended is a Land Rover specialty place that apparntly has done some work on LCs. There is also a mud supporting member, pinhead, here on the forum. Last post about him from 2021 is that he was not taking new work. I briefly considered that this was my moment for a diesel swap, but while I love the cruiser....I don't love it enough to toss huge amounts of cash at it. I also think this isn't the kind of situation that I should try and ship the rig out to a LC specialist shop....but I don't know.

So those are my best leads. I'm now looking for suggestions about the following:

• What else should I be concerned about (thinking piston rings etc)
• What other since I'm in there things should I have done (cleaning carbon form plenum etc)
• What questions should I be asking shops about this work? (should they pull the engine to do this? etc.)

I'd appreciate any suggestions or input you all have.

 

[rannon]

Story Time

TLDR: The LC has a failed HG and is Hydrolocked. Currently researching a competent mechanic in the twin cities metro area. I am unable to tackle the HG repair myself (sadly) due to time and space constraints here in my MN house. Looking for suggustions on impoirtinat things to consider for outsourcing the HG job. Read on for the long-winded version.

So yesterday was a s*** show. My HG failed in my driveway. Since I replaced the fan clutch, added the temp sensor sender, and changed the oil and coolant I haven't really driven the rig. So I decided to drive it to pick up my kid from school. After start up it idled rough, but nothing crazy. It drove fine and had reasonable power. No issues starting again at the school. Then drove my youngest to his martial arts class in the middle of a massive set of thunderstorms. Drove the Cruiser home to change back into street clothes and then to my oldest's choir concert.

When I tried to start the LC it cranked and made a terrible clicking/groaning noise and I immeadiatly let off on the key instinctually thinking it was already running. But it wasn't. Tried to crank and Clickclickclickclick. Tried again and nothing. At this point I have 21 minutes until I'm supposed to be seated watching my oldest's performance. ITs also POURING and thundering. I was thinking that the starter may have been the culprit at this point and I grab a hammer and give it a few healthy whacks. No luck. Try the key again. No luck. Try one more time and it fires up. Thinking I'm all set I move the cruiser out of the driveway and it is running so rough. I back it up and decide I need to park it on the street so I can unblock the 1990 pickup and take it to the concert. I turn the rig around and get it all parked and notice a massive cloud of steam, or white smoke. It's difficult to tell since it is raining torrentially. Make it to the concert with 3 minutes to spare.

This morning I tried to pull codes, but nothing. I checked the dipstick and the oil seemed a little thin. I checked the cap and found an emulsion of foamy oil on the cap. I pulled NO. 1 spark plug and could see red coolant pooled on top of the piston. Ack.

So here is where I'm at. The LC has as far as I can tell a failed head gasket. It would not start last night because it was hydrolocked. I forced it to start and drove it 25' to get it parked and shut it down. I m concerned about that. I actually think that the HG blew when it over heated. The oil looked ok, but I'm assuming this extra heat was the failing point. When I drained that original oil I do remember finding some funk under the cap. I expected the drained oil to look terrible and I lost track of it. Fortunately I took a picture (apparently to tell my future self you missed this!). View attachment 3638105
When I look at it now I feel fairly foolish that I dismissed/ lost track of this. I assume that the oil analysis I'm waiting on from Blackstone will confirm that there was coolant contaminating the oil.

Ok the really terrible news here is that I am unable to take on the HG myself. I was going to order that Wit's End poster and everything.....oh wait. In all seriousness I am pretty disappointed I can't pull the engine and go thing it slowly and make it perfect. I don't really have the time to do this right now and even more importantly I don't have the space to do this. MY long 1 car wide driveway in MN has no room for a non working LC to live in it for weeks (likely months at my pace) and my extra s***ty 1 car garage wold make a poor place to pull this engine and do the work. We have a major yard project underway and blocking the driveway would make the LC a multi-factor problem.

Sooooo, now I'm shopping for a shop to do the HG repair. I have one place that I'm going to call. They were willing to do the work on my A/C compressor and suggested I may want to bring my own parts. I have had them work on my little truck before and they were fine. MIL had them do work on their cars for a very long time--mostly rusty camrys. Another shop that a forum member recommended is a Land Rover specialty place that apparntly has done some work on LCs. There is also a mud supporting member, pinhead, here on the forum. Last post about him from 2021 is that he was not taking new work. I briefly considered that this was my moment for a diesel swap, but while I love the cruiser....I don't love it enough to toss huge amounts of cash at it. I also think this isn't the kind of situation that I should try and ship the rig out to a LC specialist shop....but I don't know.

So those are my best leads. I'm now looking for suggestions about the following:

• What else should I be concerned about (thinking piston rings etc)
• What other since I'm in there things should I have done (cleaning carbon form plenum etc)
• What questions should I be asking shops about this work? (should they pull the engine to do this? etc.)

I'd appreciate any suggestions or input you all have.

@PNWTreeOctopus I can't get over your day! So much so fast - what sh** show! I feel for you, that is so frustrating! Any updates on finding a reputable shop / mechanic?

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

@PNWTreeOctopus I can't get over your day! So much so fast - what sh** show! I feel for you, that is so frustrating! Any updates on finding a reputable shop / mechanic?

I have three calls to make on Tuesday, but I’m not much closer than I was earlier.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Ok, A new question has come up...

I'm a little concerned that I was able to get the truck to start and run enough to move to the street despite being hydrolocked. How likely is it that I bent a pushrod? So many questions. I also found a fantastic thread and resource for sourcing mechanics on this forum:
CRUISER MECHANICS - Listed by State - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/cruiser-mechanics-listed-by-state.349535/

Its never been more clear I need someone who is a little obsessive about toyotas to work on my rig.

and a shout out to forum member @esoniat who compiled and published a gsheet of all the mechanics in the above thread. And a map. Holy hell that's a lot of helpful work! I've found at least one more place to call in MN and its relatively close to the twin cities. Part of this is making sure they have an excellent relationship with the machine shop too.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Im also beginning to compile a parts list for the HG work just in case.... Thanks to post 806 in @FMC80 's build thread. His photos remind me that if for some reason I have/get to do the HG job myself I will need both a barn (or possibly a two car garage), and a fancy Snap On ruler...

 

[Feldrian]

Im also beginning to compile a parts list for the HG work just in case.... Thanks to post 806 in @FMC80 's build thread. His photos remind me that if for some reason I have/get to do the HG job myself I will need both a barn (or possibly a two car garage), and a fancy Snap On ruler...

There's an aircraft mechanic joke there somewhere.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

There's an aircraft mechanic joke there somewhere.

I would never…

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Mechanics….

So I found a place that deals with only Toyotas in the twin cities metro area. Recommended on the forum by some folks in the 100 section. Called the owner and he was friendly asked questions but ultimately wouldn’t take me as a client without a referral from a current customer due to their volume of work (with the exception of the month of February).

After explaining that I have concerns about a bent push rod (remember I forced to start when probably hydrolocked) he instructed me to measure cycled travel etc etc to check for bent push rod. What struck me was that he said “if it’s bent you will need a new engine..”. I didn’t ask for any clarification since I could t get in, but am I wrong to think that a “new engine approach” vs. a rebuild of the entire block is apples and oranges? Is this a reality that most shops would rather plug in a new engine than tear down the block? Is this a CYA approach? He also said that he “only uses Toyota parts and that given the age of my vehicle it may be hard to find them which can add to time and expense.”

I get that this is going to cost me $$$$$, I’m guessing that he said this since many people are seeking the fastest & cheapest repair option.

Anyhow I’m beyond disappointed that this lead hasn’t panned out completely. I bet I could get a referral from a forum member, but I’m nervous about the new engine comment. Perhaps needlessly.

Really worried I own a boat anchor all of a sudden…

 

[Feldrian]

Worst case contact @Fj80oregon and discuss shipping.

Weird comment about needing a new engine, especially since the 1FZ is OHC and has no push rods. I would seriously doubt you bent a connecting rod - that usually takes a high RPM failure and the bottom end of the 1FZ is pretty stout. It's much more a problem with modern aluminum blocks and light components.

Of course, my advice is free - take it for what it's worth.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Terrible news man. Out of the 15 or so
1fzfe’s I have rebuilt I have never seen a bent rod. That being said doesn’t mean it can’t happen. I can’t imagine your block is ruined just needs a bore if the rod tweaked and Carved up the bore. Toyota sells 1.00mm over sized pistons so as long as the damage is minimal not an issue. Really won’t know until it is torn down could be simple. If you end up needing an engine reach out.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Worst case contact @Fj80oregon and discuss shipping.

Weird comment about needing a new engine, especially since the 1FZ is OHC and has no push rods. I would seriously doubt you bent a connecting rod - that usually takes a high RPM failure and the bottom end of the 1FZ is pretty stout. It's much more a problem with modern aluminum blocks and light components.

Of course, my advice is free - take it for what it's worth.

Thank you for this. And for bringing @Fj80oregon into the tread. I am misusing the term push rod. I do mean connecting rod--Thanks for that. I am also not that suspicious about damage. The HG went in the driveway and I don't think my rpms ever climbed above 2k. I am pretty gentle with it. When I forced the start after hydrolocking, it ran terribly like it was off a tooth or I had a fuel issue.

Terrible news man. Out of the 15 or so
1fzfe’s I have rebuilt I have never seen a bent rod. That being said doesn’t mean it can’t happen. I can’t imagine your block is ruined just needs a bore if the rod tweaked and Carved up the bore. Toyota sells 1.00mm over sized pistons so as long as the damage is minimal not an issue. Really won’t know until it is torn down could be simple. If you end up needing an engine reach out.

Thanks for chiming in. Im in a deeper part of the Land Cruiser pool right now and its showing the limitations of my knowledge. I suspect the Mechanic has has little time on the 1FZ-FE. It seems they are few and far between in the midwest. The hand full of LX450's and 80's I see are probably going to get scrapped if they have a HG issue--there just arnt many 80s out and about. I dont know if the mechanic said that because he isnt interested in doing that level of rebuild (he is very busy) or thats more of a philosophical or cost saving place. Im sure its a boat load easier and faster for him to slap in a new engine, amd I dont fault him for it.

SO now I suppose I just need to learn the best procedure for accurately measuring the piston travel. Like I said before Im in new territory.

 

[Fj80oregon]

can you rotate you engine by hand? If so you don’t have a bent rod likely. The piston would get cocked in the bore and you could not rotate the engine. Your knowledge sounds like you have a good understanding with what’s going on. This forum will help with anything else. 5 years ago I had never done a full rebuild and because of the knowledge and encouragement from here I do several a year now. Sucks you don’t have a space to do the work yourself.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Happy to report I can hand turn with 30mm socket and short 1/2 drive ratchet. Was able to turn over a few times. So that probably means all push rods are ok. So maybe I’ll ping a few of the forum members and see if I can get a bloody referral to this shop. In the mean time I’m going to call a couple of other shops and see what they have to say. I was avoiding calling a gritty little shop down the street that did some work on my 1990 pickup, but I’ll call them and see what they have to say. They are friendly with me supplying parts so maybe that’s the way to go.

 

[baldilocks]

All of the rebuild parts are available and very reasonably priced through PartsOuq. I’m doing my 1996 engine now. It seems to me the only way you could accurately determine piston travel is to pull the head off.

How many miles on it? Any smoke or oil consumption? What about leaks from anywhere on the block that would dictate removing the engine to address? I’d be thinking about how my money will serve me best and that’s not on anyone’s labor especially in a shop that’s not Land Cruiser specific. I’d seriously be considering a rebuilt engine from Wes. That way all you are paying a shop to do is an engine replacement which is pretty much a one banana job. Also, you’ll have a fresh all Toyota engine with solid backing.

How do you know it became hydro-locked? And why would you start it if, indeed, it was hydro-locked????

You got a stick or a bullet to bite down on because this one’s gonna hurt……..

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

@baldilocks, I’ll try and answer your questions, they are excellent.

How many miles on it?

About 250k, give or take 15k due to uncorrected spedo.

Any smoke or oil consumption?

Some smoke on startup, some oil consumption.

What about leaks from anywhere on the block that would dictate removing the engine to address?

Rear main seal is leaking. It would be one of my while you’re in there tasks for the shop assuming they would pull the engine….which is a huge assumption.

I’d seriously be considering a rebuilt engine from Wes.

If Wes is @Fj80oregon then yes I’m strongly considering this route. His thoughts on this thread have been helpful and encouraging.

How do you know it became hydro-locked? And why would you start it if, indeed, it was hydro-locked????

I’m now pretty convinced it’s not actually hydro locked. I can rotate the engine by hand. Why would I start it if I was Hydrolocked? An excellent question. The moment when the cruiser wouldnt turn over was a little hectic. I was rushing to get my son from his martial arts class to my oldest kids choir concert at the high school. We had just driven the cruiser for a few minutes and were briefly stopping so we could change clothes because it was raining so hard--massive thunderstorm dumping 1" of rain in an hour. When I tried to start the truck again in the drive way, the starter made a horrible noise---reminiscent of turning the starter when the car is running. I storped cranking immeadiatly, then tried again and nothing. No cranking, only a couple of clicks.

Blown HG wasnt my first thought. I thought I had a starter issue, but I was rushing like crazy to not miss my kids performance. Another sacrifice on the alter of parenting! My other truck was parked in the driveway (narrow one car width) blocked by the cruiser, and the crazy rain/ thunder, plus time stress was making diagnostic work not really diagnostic. So given that I was going as fast as possible to find a solution that got me moving again I followed my first instinct which was to get the starter moving again. So I rapped it a bunch with a hammer and after sitting for about 10 minutes and three attempts to start it fired up again. I immediately started backing up out of the drive way but it was idling terribly, very low and labored. I then parked it on the street and when I shut it off and got out of the rig I noticed what I think was a healthy cloud of white smoke....Im hedging because it was pouring and difficult to really see. That was the only time I started it up and ran it. I was idling/ barely throttling in reverse, then gently turning it around after hearing it struggling to run.

You got a stick or a bullet to bite down on because this one’s gonna hurt……..

Alas, you are more than right. But I think the silver lining here is that if I do this repair (or decision to replace the engine) right I should have a more reliable engine than when I started!

I really appreciate the input and the good questions. Keep them coming.