Builds Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser (3 Viewers)

[baldilocks]

I’ll be curious to hear how you like the new setup once you get it out to some proving grounds.

For mine I debated OEM / switch pros/ separate switches. If I’m honest I chose the OEM dial switch because it has a such a positive feel to the switch. I really like how you push it down and turn it, but if it limits me more than once I’ll change it. Plus the switch pros is pretty expensive for switches. It might make sense someday, but currently I think I'm on the right track.

I bought switches off eBay. The rig I had prior to getting into 80’s had ARB’s with ARB switches so I’m aquatinted with it. Honestly, in all the year using the dial switch I can’t remember an instance where I said to myself that separate switches would have made a huge difference. But, since I’ll have individual control I will experiment with front locker only in certain situations.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Thanks Malleus, I’ve been through lots of posts and threads and I am formulating my plans of attack (and budgeting repairs)!

I was thinking that the yellow box speedo correction (110.85 shipped) would work with my vehicle. I did email the company and said the plug n play model will work-"it joins to 3-pin connector plug set at Outpost Speed Sensor located on the transmission. Most users run the wiring harness through he existing grommet holes int he firewall above the transmission and mount their Yellow Box inside the car." There is also Marks 4WD digital speedo correction unit. It looks even easier to use, but its speedy at $200. This repair is to make things more straight forward keeping track of speed and milage, but obviously its not totally necessary.

As for the electrical issues my gear indicator lights flickered last night on the dash when I pulled into the driveway and shifted to park! So I’m certainly planning on checking/ cleaning/ grounds. As far as the NSS connector I’m going to check it out when I replace the knock sensors (parts are in the mail). I’ve been reading threads about corroded connectors near the PHH. I’m anticipating I might find some corrosion and damage but hopefully not!

The PHH looks like it was changed at some point, it has what looks like hardware store hose clamps on it, but the more I read about PHH issues and repairs the more I'm inclined to attempt replacing it while I have the knock sensors out since I'd like to avoid damaging the new ones and I have absolutely no idea when this was changed or if it ever was. ITs not swollen, but as I understand it thats not at all a good gauge. The whole PHH repair would also be a good time to replace some of the other cooling system hoses and parts, but after reading the post on Brian894x4's website i'm overwhelmed at the scope of the job...deep breath!

PS leak-I wiped off a huge amount of grime and PS fluid off of the reservoir when I brought it home. So far the only leak I can see seems to be coming from the larger hose which I believe is return hose. It's just a slow seep at this point.View attachment 1649969

The whining noise happens when I increase power. If I'm holding speed in town its quiet, but if i accelerate from a stop or to increase speed on the go it has a whine/drone/ almost whistle. What i imagine a turbo to kind of sound like (never owned a turbocharged vehicle). I'm missing the wing nut/washer gasket to the air cleaner housing, I'm hoping its just air getting sucked across that, but its totally possible its the exhaust.

The exhaust hanger you show in your photo and bracket are missing, as is the tuner. The shop that installed the bumper elected to cut if off IIRC what the PO said. When purchasing the vehicle I attempted to contact the shop in Bend, OR that did the work, but they never got back to me. Needless to say seeing those things missing without a solution to secure the tailpipe is a little concerning. View attachment 1649971View attachment 1649972
The whole thing is loose and that sucks. It needs attention. I’m sure that the deformed tail pipe isn’t helping performance at all. Im not sure where the last bracket connects-is the bumper obscuring mounting holes? I'll search for a photo later...

It looks like things are not connected properly from point 3 or point 4 in the below diagram. rad.View attachment 1649977


Whahoo!

Can confirm the yellow box works. I ran mine under the transfer case shifter bootand popped it out under the center console.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Can confirm the yellow box works. I ran mine under the transfer case shifter bootand popped it out under the center console.

I didn’t end up getting a yellow box for Speedo correction. I got a different product, but essentially the same concept. Works great.

It’s a Lutz Auto product

 

[Feldrian]

My air lockers were on an oem switch since 2014. While I’m building out this 96 to replace the 93 I killed last May, I’m going to wire up individual rocker switches instead of the oem dial switch. This way the front and rear can be controlled separate.

I frequently use the front locker with the rear open - Especially in the snow.

 

[Dusten]

I frequently use the front locker with the rear open - Especially in the snow.

Tracks better. Easy to keep from sliding.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Overheating Saga Part 2: Investigation

All my parts have arrived, so I’m beginning the work. Step one was to change the oil and grab a sample for Blackstone. I’m feeling a lot better after just looking at the oil Siri g sampling. It was very black, but there wasn’t an obvious sign of coolent. I’m hopeful that the oils sample will show no HG issues.

I’m now running Rotella T4 15w40. Mileage 229,306. Previous oil was Rotella T4 10w30.

I then drained the coolant and it looks great as well. A few (8-10) pieces of coppery debris from block drain. I’m not planning on a whole distilled water flush this go around.

i then removed the fan clutch. First I loosened the four nuts retaining the clutch hub. I used a brass drift and a small hammer to gently tap it loose from the water pump. I stuffed a piece of cardboard between the fan. Las and the radiator and left the nuts partially threaded so nothing could go flying. Once loose I passed the fan between the radiator and the shroud by removing the two bolts at the top. My “nipple guard” had to be pryed up a bit to release the shroud. I may need some new tape to secure it securely again.

Once out I removed the fan and cleaned it off. I then secured the old fan to the new blue modified hub from @landtank and put it all back on the cruiser with a dab of anti size on the hub mating surface (I’m still scared of MN).

Tada!

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Aux. Temp Guage…
I am considering adding an auxiliary temp gauge so I can get some real time coolant temps. If I go ahead and install one my plan is to drill and tap a hole for a sender in water inlet pipe. There’s a perfect little spot for one.

But I’d rather remove that pipe from the block than drill into the pipe with out removing it. I’m picking up a new Toyota gasket tomorrow. It it’s never been removed in 31 years and I’m a little nervous about breaking stuff that isn’t already broken…..

Decisions.

 

[FMC80]

Remove it. You won’t regret going the extra step.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Remove it. You won’t regret going the extra step.

Yep.

 

[FMC80]

Yep.

I did it the janky way by cutting one of the rad lines and inserting the sensor there. If I ever get back to working on her again, I might do it the right way.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I did it the janky way by cutting one of the rad lines and inserting the sensor there. If I ever get back to working on her again, I might do it the right way.

It's not much work, but I do think I'll have to pull the battery, and the alternator, which isn't a big deal, but last time I pulled the alternator I sheared a stud and that wasn't the most fun time. I also hate futzing with the distributor, but If I pulled that It would clear the way to this inlet pipe.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Also I remembered that Wit's end used to sell an inlet pipe drilled and tapped for an aux gauge, but that ship has sailed.....into an iceberg.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Also I just wanted you all to know I'm not buying a 2024 Land Cruiser. Just in case you were wondering.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Back on the road

So I did end up pulling the water inlet pipe to drill and tap for a little aux gauge. I no longer have a drill press, or a vise, or a work bench. So given that I was doing this on a wobbly piece of plywood on plastic sawhorses it turned out ok. I used some high temp thread sealant to guard against seepage. I dont have the gauge hooked up yet, but I'm sure it will either be helpful or highly distressing and distracting. We will see.

Here is a pic that shows the location of this project. To access this pipe I removed the battery, tray, distributor, alternator, and the alternator bracket. I had a bit of trouble breaking loose the alternator bracket, but I did eventually get everything to come apart without any carnage to bolts or studs. The inlet pipe nuts I soaked in penetrating oil (Kroil is the current flavor I like). I also picked up a new gasket for the inlet pipe at the local Toyota dealership.

While I should have spent lots of time cleaning this all up, I didn't . I just cleaned all the mounting surfaces up well and bolted it all up again as I was short on time and needed the rig drivable at the end of the afternoon. So in conclusion if I were to do this all over again I would strongly consider the mid hose temp sensor route. As far as drilling the hole out while the pipe is still attached. I can't recommend it. I know it's been done, but I made a LOT of metal shavings. I can imagine I would have caught most of them with some heavy grease on the bit and the tap, but it would have been needlessly stressful, and I personally would have probably introduced a considerable amount with my limited experience drilling and tapping into a closed system like the 1FZ-FE's cooling system.

Finally, the new land tank fan clutch seems to be working well. I could't get the rig to overheat idling in the driveway, but I'll take it for a test drive to see if everything is working well and my coolant is staying in place. I'm not sure when I'll get to the gauge mounting and wiring, but hopefully I can combine that with the other electrical work I need to do in my dash related to the locker and air compressor switches.

 

[rannon]

Back on the road

So I did end up pulling the water inlet pipe to drill and tap for a little aux gauge. I no longer have a drill press, or a vise, or a work bench. So given that I was doing this on a wobbly piece of plywood on plastic sawhorses it turned out ok. I used some high temp thread sealant to guard against seepage. I dont have the gauge hooked up yet, but I'm sure it will either be helpful or highly distressing and distracting. We will see. View attachment 3628774
Here is a pic that shows the location of this project. To access this pipe I removed the battery, tray, distributor, alternator, and the alternator bracket. I had a bit of trouble breaking loose the alternator bracket, but I did eventually get everything to come apart without any carnage to bolts or studs. The inlet pipe nuts I soaked in penetrating oil (Kroil is the current flavor I like). I also picked up a new gasket for the inlet pipe at the local Toyota dealership. View attachment 3628781
While I should have spent lots of time cleaning this all up, I didn't . I just cleaned all the mounting surfaces up well and bolted it all up again as I was short on time and needed the rig drivable at the end of the afternoon. So in conclusion if I were to do this all over again I would strongly consider the mid hose temp sensor route. As far as drilling the hole out while the pipe is still attached. I can't recommend it. I know it's been done, but I made a LOT of metal shavings. I can imagine I would have caught most of them with some heavy grease on the bit and the tap, but it would have been needlessly stressful, and I personally would have probably introduced a considerable amount with my limited experience drilling and tapping into a closed system like the 1FZ-FE's cooling system.

Finally, the new land tank fan clutch seems to be working well. I could't get the rig to overheat idling in the driveway, but I'll take it for a test drive to see if everything is working well and my coolant is staying in place. I'm not sure when I'll get to the gauge mounting and wiring, but hopefully I can combine that with the other electrical work I need to do in my dash related to the locker and air compressor switches.

Nice work on getting to that pipe and drilling your own sensor hole. Which sensor did you purchase if you don't mind me asking - I'm interested in this one. Also, do you think the mid-hose sensor would be just as accurate technically?
Did you have to reset the engine timing when reinstalling the distributor?

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Nice work on getting to that pipe and drilling your own sensor hole. Which sensor did you purchase if you don't mind me asking - I'm interested in this one. Also, do you think the mid-hose sensor would be just as accurate technically?
Did you have to reset the engine timing when reinstalling the distributor?

Thanks @rannon, The sensor is the Koso Slim Mount sensor. I found other mud users with OBD1 have had success with it. The thread Koso slim water temp gauge install was the inspiration. This thread covers the appropriate mid hose adaptor to use if you do not want to remove the battery, distributor and alternator to drill and tap the inlet pipe. As far as accuracy based on location of the sensor between these two places: I can't imagine there would be a difference, as they are so close together. Would there be some differences? Probably, but functionally I believe it would be the same.

Yep, I did reset engine timing with the removal of the distributor. If I can do it, I promise you can do it. I'm not even a jet engine mechanic, or a mechanical engineer!

 

[FMC80]

I have the Koso slim as well and installed it in the hose. I’d bet no discernible difference, but it’s mo betta the way G did it. It introduces less potential failure points, but wtf do I know? I’m just an old jet engine mechanic; basically a caveman.

 

[rannon]

Thanks @rannon, The sensor is the Koso Slim Mount sensor. I found other mud users with OBD1 have had success with it. The thread Koso slim water temp gauge install was the inspiration. This thread covers the appropriate mid hose adaptor to use if you do not want to remove the battery, distributor and alternator to drill and tap the inlet pipe. As far as accuracy based on location of the sensor between these two places: I can't imagine there would be a difference, as they are so close together. Would there be some differences? Probably, but functionally I believe it would be the same.

Yep, I did reset engine timing with the removal of the distributor. If I can do it, I promise you can do it. I'm not even a jet engine mechanic, or a mechanical engineer!

Thanks for weighing in with all the details @PNWTreeOctopus - it sounds like I need to go for it on this one. Any timing lights out there you guys recommend to get?

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Thanks for weighing in with all the details @PNWTreeOctopus - it sounds like I need to go for it on this one. Any timing lights out there you guys recommend to get?

I have an Innova 3551 inductive timing light, it's the most basic one and currently available for about $45 online I got it second hand at the RE-Store in Bellingham for about $10. All I've ever needed it to do is flash the light, but I've only changed the timing on my LC and my 1990 DLX Pickup which has the 22-re and is INCREDIBLY similar to the 1FZ-FE in terms of function and layout. Im not sure what the digital timing lights would be able to offer or if they are compatible with th obd1 1FZ-FE. Im sure folks will hav an opinion, but I like this one and would replace it with the same model. It has survived a number of falls and still work fine.

 

[CharlieS]

I have a cheapo timing light that works okay, but I recently picked up a nicer one that has digital display, shows rpm and is adjustable so you can be precise (within one degree) on your adjustments.