Builds Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser

[FMC80]

VAF connection/Grounds/fusible link/air, fuel, spark/efi relay installed? You may have removed it during your maintenance. Just rambling off the obvious that you may have overlooked.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

VAF connection/Grounds/fusible link/air, fuel, spark/efi relay installed? You may have removed it during your maintenance. Just rambling off the obvious that you may have overlooked.

Check, check, check. I am double checking a ground 1st tomorrow. Then I’m going to check that spark if I can get my wife to held for a couple minutes. If spark, then I’ll check the distributor and confirm that it’s not 180 off.

The plan is to slow down and get methodical. It’s not hard to feel impatient right now. I was really hoping to head to Starbucks to grab a coffee on my way to the mall in the Cruiser….

 

[Dusten]

Say what?



We’ll I’ve never owned a belt tension gauge before so I used the FSM to guide my purchase. The Burroughs style one was the only one I could find. Seemed straight forward to use.
View attachment 2916153

I'm sure it's a great device. Nothing wrong with it. Just never seen one. I also have yet to look at the Toyota fsm.

 

[Irish Reiver]

So on to spark. I did just replace every component of the spark system….new Toyota plugs (I checked gaps were at .30). New plug wires, new distributor cap and rotor. New coil. Hmm.

Not sure if this is a typo but the plug gaps should 0.8mm. If you have yours at 0.3mm then you likely are not getting a decent spark.

 

[Dusten]

Not sure if this is a typo but the plug gaps should 0.8mm. If you have yours at 0.3mm then you likely are not getting a decent spark.

He said .030... That is .8mm

Most of us still gap plugs using sae.

 

[Irish Reiver]

He actually wrote .30 not .03

 

[FMC80]

There’s something simple you’re missing/overlooking. Have you verified your plug wires are in the right order and ignition coil wire are seated fully? Do you have fuel (lol)? Wonder if it’s your fuel rail/injectors.

I’m sure others have better ideas than my ramblings.

 

[Dusten]

He actually wrote .30 not .03

I know what he typed. I also understood it to be .030

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Remember when I Said I was not communicating clearly?

Wow, I’m not being very clear tonight. I’m gonna go have a beer and watch the Olympics with my kids. Tomorrow I’ll try again.

Well I kept on going…

I'm sure it's a great device. Nothing wrong with it. Just never seen one. I also have yet to look at the Toyota fsm.

It worked fine, but it is much larger than I expected, it just barely fits for measuring the belts.

Not sure if this is a typo but the plug gaps should 0.8mm. If you have yours at 0.3mm then you likely are not getting a decent spark.

Oops. I was not being clear again rushing along. This is my default mode when I can tell my “cruiser time” is bleeding over into family time. This is never a good thing g in my household, as it cause some bent feelings around here.

I checked the gap at .031 inches initially with a round “coin” style gap checker. I felt it was hard to accurately use (I don’t check gap very often) but then later I confirmed gap with a different gap tool from my shiny new engine maintenance set. So I feel confident that the gaps are indeed correct at 0.8mm. FWIW I did not need to adjust any of the Toyota plugs, which is apparently typical, but occasionally/ rarely they need adjustment according to some folks so it’s worth checking. So yes, gapped 0.8mm with a good tool. My earlier post Was confusing, why did I write .30? Well because I wasn’t looking at my FSM or my notes—this is a great reminder (to me) that what I remember isn’t true….unless we’re talking about trout…then really accurate memory.

Afore mentioned tools.

There’s something simple you’re missing/overlooking. Have you verified your plug wires are in the right order and ignition coil wire are seated fully? Do you have fuel (lol)? Wonder if it’s your fuel rail/injectors.

I’m sure others have better ideas than my ramblings.

I’m compiling a list. I’m in the garage as we speak and the truck is waiting for me. Here we go.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Update:

I have ticked through this list:

• VAF connection
• Fusible links
• EFI relay
• EFI fuse
• Grounds
• Plug wires: tight (found a loose one-maybe seated it.
• Checked distributor: using a chapstick to verify 0 TDC, I removed the distributor and re installed closely following FSM.
• Fuel: verified fuel is pulsing through FPR and return line at filter.
• Fuel injectors: maybe I’m on to something. No.1’snconnector wasn’t seated, No2. Is also not seated. Trying to get them sorted now. Not much room to work with.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Update:

• Seated injector no.2’s connector. I visually inspected no.6 and no.3. I can’t see or access no.4 and no.5 without removing the throttle body.
• Confirmed with EWD that I have the injector wires in the correct position in the connector (that worry was running through my head at 1am)
• Tried cranking again. The engine almost turned over after cranking for about 7 seconds. After 3 cranking sessions of 7-8 seconds the battery was depleated.

So here we are. I’m pretty sure I have spark…my lady had to head to work and couldn’t turn the key for me to check the spark as per FSM, but I have a neighbor who hopefully can lend me a hand later today.

I’m currently suspicious of my battery not having enough juice to start this truck up or low compression. I’ve never tested the compression before (on this truck or anything else for that matter) so I’ll go shop for a test kit. My reading led me to believe that the engine having been drained many weeks might be dry enough that I could have low compression…this seems like kind of a long shot though.

I’m making a cup of coffee then off to run some errands and get my kids.

 

[FMC80]

Low compression? I doubt it but anything is possible. If you found your injectors to be loose/unseated then I’d keep going down that path. Throttle body will take you 69 seconds to remove and verify.

I know you’ll get it; it’ll happen today

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Low compression? I doubt it but anything is possible. If you found your injectors to be loose/unseated then I’d keep going down that path. Throttle body will take you 69 seconds to remove and verify.

I know you’ll get it; it’ll happen today

Yup. Just tried jumping with my trusty Subaru, almost fired up. I’ll pull the TB and stop crying.

 

[Irish Reiver]

What @FMC80 says. Throttle body is just 4 bolts. You won't even need to disconnect the # coolant hose - just move the TB out of the way and confirm the connectors are locked nice and tight.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Yup. Just tried jumping with my trusty Subaru, almost fired up. I’ll pull the TB and stop crying.

All connectors are secure and correctly wired according to my EWD.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I have it all bolted back up. So weird. I’ll confirm spark and then we can go from there.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I have spark. As tested by FSM procedure pulling coil wire on distributor cap and looking for spark when it is held next to the intake/ ground. Hmmm.

Not gonna happen today. I’ll Regroup and get after it again tomorrow with all your forthcoming suggestions!

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Stopped into NAPA and bought a compression tester and a mechanics stethoscope, which I’ll employ to check that the injectors are actually functioning and delivering fuel. I also bought a new multimeter. I wanted to have one for the rig tool kit. This one beeps for continuity, that May be helpfull.

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

Jeez starting our not, well done in regrouping and going back through methodically. I'm reading this like it's my favorite crime novel and I'm getting close to the end and seeing who the killer is.

Agree with about trout measurements too, and steelhead for that matter.

 

[Irish Reiver]

I am assuming you did but you never mentioned it. Did you try and start it after you confirmed all the injectors were plugged in? If so what happened? I know your battery was shot so apologies for the question...