Builds Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser (4 Viewers)

[TYM4FUN]

Then us a DMM and pin the #1 injector clip to verify you have injector signal from the ECU while cranking as well. I am guessing you do since you have had some starts.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Great tip! I’ll try that one too.

I actually just picked up a remote start switch at the auto parts store. The guy who checked me out called it a “Lone Wolf 3000”. This will let me check those injectors for function as well without waiting on my wife or neighbor.

 

[TYM4FUN]

Remember your cell phone is also a tool. Set it up recording under hood while you crank if needed.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Then us a DMM and pin the #1 injector clip to verify you have injector signal from the ECU while cranking as well. I am guessing you do since you have had some starts.

^^this. I’ll give this a whirl too, I think I understand what I’m Looking for. Just testing voltage at the connector (harness side) when I crank?

I haven’t had any short starts since the one. I did notice a fuel smell when I walked around the rig after I tried starting it. So it might be that I’m getting closer.

Current

Remember your cell phone is also a tool. Set it up recording under hood while you crank if needed.

Another great one! Thanks

 

[TYM4FUN]

Just testing voltage at the connector (harness side) when I crank?

Yes. If you have an audible one, it will beep with every fire or just look for the voltage spiking.

 

[Irish Reiver]

I pulled the distributor again following FSM procedure. I then pulled spark plug no.1 and confirmed with a chopstick that Cylinder 1 was on compression (chopstick sticks up out of spark plug tube, when on exhaust stroke it falls beyond reach in the tube). I reinstalled the distributor and give it a try. No love from the Cruiser.

This is not true. Number 1 piston will pass TDC (Top Dead Center) on both the compression and the exhaust stroke so with your chopstick test the chopstick would stick out of the sparkplug tube in both cases. I have a feeling that you might have the distributor 180 out of phase. Once you get TDC on compression the rotor arm should be pointing something close this.
If your plug tube seals are in good condition you should be able to remove #1 spark plug, put your hand over the opening as best as possible and you should be able to feel a little compression building as you turn the crank. If this isn't working conclusively then you will need a compression tester to do the same thing. Alternatively, pop off the valve cover and line up the dots on the cam shafts.

 

[MrMikeyG]

Man, after all of this craziness you need to definitely go somewhere better than Starbucks.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Man, after all of this craziness you need to definitely go somewhere better than Starbucks.

Our mall is pretty tight! I’ll probably hit up the food court, stance it next to the Jeepers.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I was actually thinking of here…

Dropped Pin

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[PNWTreeOctopus]

This is not true. Number 1 piston will pass TDC (Top Dead Center) on both the compression and the exhaust stroke so with your chopstick test the chopstick would stick out of the sparkplug tube in both cases. I have a feeling that you might have the distributor 180 out of phase. Once you get TDC on compression the rotor arm should be pointing something close this.
If your plug tube seals are in good condition you should be able to remove #1 spark plug, put your hand over the opening as best as possible and you should be able to feel a little compression building as you turn the crank. If this isn't working conclusively then you will need a compression tester to do the same thing. Alternatively, pop off the valve cover and line up the dots on the cam shafts.

View attachment 2920947

great advice. I’ll pull the distributor once more and make sure I’m on the compression stroke.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Ok tomorrows plan is to test spark and fuel, with my engine start switch gizmo. Once I confirm those two I’ll go through the distributor once more and use the paper towel pressure test method for compression and get things sorted.

If I don’t have spark, then I’ll take that path. If no fuel, then I’ll chase wires and figure out why.

Still feeling like spark is the issue, given that I can’t get it to fire up on starting fluid in the TB. It should start with a run with a bit in there right?

The glacier grinds ahead…

 

[ppc]

Ok tomorrows plan is to test spark and fuel, with my engine start switch gizmo. Once I confirm those two I’ll go through the distributor once more and use the paper towel pressure test method for compression and get things sorted.

If I don’t have spark, then I’ll take that path. If no fuel, then I’ll chase wires and figure out why.

Still feeling like spark is the issue, given that I can’t get it to fire up on starting fluid in the TB. It should start with a run with a bit in there right?

The glacier grinds ahead…

Not exactly sure what you mean by "path" but you still should have spark no matter if the distributor is not properly positioned. It just needs to occur at the proper time or very close, to fire the engine. If just "close" it may run but not smoothly and be low on power.

 

[Dusten]

Get a noid light set to test the injectors....

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Not exactly sure what you mean by "path" but you still should have spark no matter if the distributor is not properly positioned. It just needs to occur at the proper time or very close, to fire the engine. If just "close" it may run but not smoothly and be low on power.

I used path to describe diagnostic direction (no fuel vs no spark). I’ve not been super clear lately.

I understand that will have spark regardless of how the distributor timed. I just haven’t confirmed that the actual plugs are getting spark, but I am expecting them to show that when I rig the starter remote this morning.

All this being said, I’m new and trying to learn…which sometimes means marking tedious mistakes. I think I’m well into the mistake section now.

I appreciate the help a lot!

 

[FMC80]

I’m new

Que? What? Huh? 37 pages of baselining journey that started 4 years ago. Your statement won’t hold up in Cruiser Court.

I agree with the others; at this point I think your timing is off. You’re likely getting spark just fine.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Que? What? Huh? 37 pages of baselining journey that started 4 years ago. Your statement won’t hold up in Cruiser Court.

I agree with the others; at this point I think your timing is off. You’re likely getting spark just fine.

Well I ****ing feel like I’m new. And special.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Ok my handy remote stater is hooked up, and I have been using it to do some diagnosing. Here’s what I’ve found so far:

• Weak/ inconsistent looking spark at no.1 plug.
• No spark when I pull cord from coil to distributor and hold 12.5mm/ 1/2” from ground on upper intake.

This was a surprise. I had spark when I last had a helper and pulled the cable from the distributor.

Started trough “no spark section” of my FSM (IG-7):

So my results look like this:

• Spark test: no
• Check connection of IG coil, igniter, and Distributor Cover: all OK
• Check resistance of high tension cord: I checked the coil to distributor cover cord: 6.39 ohms well under 25ohm max. It’s brand new.
• Power supply to IG coil?: Yes
• Check Primary resistance of IG coil (IG-16): .8 measured At 200ohm setting, (checks high,but the same as my old coil that functioned. The one currently installed is brand new Toyota.) my confidence in both my cheap DMMs and my skills are lower here.
• Check secondary resistance of IG coil (IG-16):11.72 ohms cold-checks OK.
• Check resistance of Signal Generator (pickup coil): all check OK.
• Air gaps look good: .28mm Left side and .21mm Right side
• Attempted to check signal from ECU, but struggled with this test. Couldn’t get any thing from the plugs pins on the harness…

Quitting for lunch.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

And now i have zero spark. I need to make my brain work again. Before i start making mistakes.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Installed the old coil, no idea what the manufacturer is. No change. Zero spark from coil to distributor plug.

But I did forgot to have to ****ing key switched to on….for spark testing. Told ya I’m new and special. I turned that key to on and that 1FZ-FE roared to life immediately. So much relief.

I think the Distributor has been 180 out, thanks to all of you who have pushed me to get it right. I used a compression tester hose and verified the compression stroke and then got lost chasing spark with that ignition turned to off. Oh well, I’m now familiar with that section of the FSM.

I have to stop for the day, but I don’t want to. It’s pizza night and I’m the chef. I’ll be back on the road soon…like a glacier. Just need to finish the cooling system flush with the distilled water in there, then Toyota red, Timing, powers steering and transmission fluid checking, and it’s ready to drive around near and far.

 

[FMC80]

Installed the old coil, no idea what the manufacturer is. No change. Zero spark from coil to distributor plug.

But I did forgot to have to f***ing key switched to on….for spark testing. Told ya I’m new and special. I turned that key to on and that 1FZ-FE roared to life immediately. So much relief.

I think the Distributor has been 180 out, thanks to all of you who have pushed me to get it right. I used a compression tester hose and verified the compression stroke and then got lost chasing spark with that ignition turned to off. Oh well, I’m now familiar with that section of the FSM.

I have to stop for the day, but I don’t want to. It’s pizza night and I’m the chef. I’ll be back on the road soon…like a glacier. Just need to finish the cooling system flush with the distilled water in there, then Toyota red, Timing, powers steering and transmission fluid checking, and it’s ready to drive around near and far.

AFT! Congrats, G! I guess we’ll take your word for it since there aren’t any videos or pictures.