Build Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser

[BILT4ME]

Not trying to interrupt anything here. Just reading some threads. Your maintenance is very impressive man. I am trying to educate myself as much as possible. My 80 is currently at 236k miles and all original. I have done a good bit of maintenance with ALL fluids flushed, valve cover gasket, fan clutch, trans pan oil strainer and reseal, Its on a 3 inch dobinsons ims lift. But before I take it long distance I wanted to check with a professional like you to see if I need to take it a step further. Axles, differentials etc. Mine is a 97 model. I am very new to all of this. Thanks dude.

Please start your own thread so we don't all pollute his, then we will all go over there to answer your questions and abuse you.

 

[Feldrian]

I now have a small parts habit. I think I will be crossing a large threshold when I order a new springs and shocks. Im just not clear on what direction to go.

The compiled suspension thread is amazing, but the threads about reviewing various coils are filled with lots of confusing noise and opinions. But I’m realizing some truths:

1. I want a complete suspension overhaul because I didn’t get to make the suspension choices. It’s currently ok, but I think it could be better.
2. I want DVS arms, so I need to settle on lift and tire size.
3. 35” tires are where I’m at for now. I’d like to wheel on them first, but I like the low lift big tire approach.
4. I don’t want to trailer my rig, and it needs to play nice on pavement loaded with camping gear for 4 and a 47lb Labrador. It can be less than perfect for the Starbucks run and crawling at the Mall of America.
5. Budget is capable of “buy once cry once” scale purchases. If I can keep the suspension budget at $3-4K for a well built system that would be ideal. especially if I’m not trying to change tires and wheel size today.

I am not taking the approach of “I want my rig to look like @_______’s,” but rather what I want my rig to be able to do, and how I want it to feel, and what compromises it can have to to them. I will be calling up my favorite vendor to discuss my choices. Hopefully my approach will be helpful to someone else with a glacially slow build.

Your suspension will be exponentially more expensive if you want super streetable performance with 37s over 35s and obviously the more height you run, the more issues you'll have towing a trailer comfortably (and the more challenges your kids, wife and labrador will have clambering in). If you want "big tires and low lift" aka @Broski style you're going to need to get comfortable cutting up sheet metal, which seems like it might be more than you want to commit to at this point of the game.

You have 35s. Wheel them. You're not going to see a huge difference it capability with 37s and if you haven't wheeled the rig, it's better to learn your capabilities and become an amazing driver while you're a little closer to the ground and have a little less leverage on your driveline. Delta 4" arms and Dobbie 2.5 VVTs (which will net you 4") would be where I'd go first. May want to run the Dobbie 3" VVT in the rear (which netted me 5, empty) if you're going to run serious weight back there. When I added my drawers I had to add a 1" spacer to the rear.

 

[roflbox]

Not trying to interrupt anything here. Just reading some threads. Your maintenance is very impressive man. I am trying to educate myself as much as possible. My 80 is currently at 236k miles and all original. I have done a good bit of maintenance with ALL fluids flushed, valve cover gasket, fan clutch, trans pan oil strainer and reseal, Its on a 3 inch dobinsons ims lift. But before I take it long distance I wanted to check with a professional like you to see if I need to take it a step further. Axles, differentials etc. Mine is a 97 model. I am very new to all of this. Thanks dude.

go to the 80 section:

80-Series Tech

1991-1997 : Lexus LX450 and FJ80/FZJ80 Toyota Land Cruiser (J80)

forum.ih8mud.com

find the "Post thread" button on the topish right of the page, and then title it as you see fit, most people have build / baselining threads (this specific thread here is an example)
and then mine (in my signature) is an example as well

you can pose all of your questions in your thread, and then people will be by to help you, or suggest ways to spend your money

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Not trying to interrupt anything here. Just reading some threads. Your maintenance is very impressive man. I am trying to educate myself as much as possible. My 80 is currently at 236k miles and all original. I have done a good bit of maintenance with ALL fluids flushed, valve cover gasket, fan clutch, trans pan oil strainer and reseal, Its on a 3 inch dobinsons ims lift. But before I take it long distance I wanted to check with a professional like you to see if I need to take it a step further. Axles, differentials etc. Mine is a 97 model. I am very new to all of this. Thanks dude.

Kind words! Thanks! A couple of things:

1. Do start your own thread, you will amass helpful folks who will help you spend your money. Plus they will cheer you on and tell you when your parts are on upside down/backwards.
2. I’m definitely a professional….but not in the automotive world by any stretch of the imagination.
3. The 80 series FAQ at the top of the 80 series forum is required reading if you haven’t found it already. You need to know the jargon, the TLAs (three letter acronyms) and the available resources.

Specifically regarding anything else to check on your rig? Brakes. These things are heavy. They stop. Some better than others. If your brakes suck and you are modded with lifts and tires and at 275k you need to go over that system well or you might accidentally kill someone trying to cross the street. Nobody will cheer for you then.

Now go start a build thread!

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Your suspension will be exponentially more expensive if you want super streetable performance with 37s over 35s and obviously the more height you run, the more issues you'll have towing a trailer comfortably (and the more challenges your kids, wife and labrador will have clambering in). If you want "big tires and low lift" aka @Broski style you're going to need to get comfortable cutting up sheet metal, which seems like it might be more than you want to commit to at this point of the game.

You have 35s. Wheel them. You're not going to see a huge difference it capability with 37s and if you haven't wheeled the rig, it's better to learn your capabilities and become an amazing driver while you're a little closer to the ground and have a little less leverage on your driveline. Delta 4" arms and Dobbie 2.5 VVTs (which will net you 4") would be where I'd go first. May want to run the Dobbie 3" VVT in the rear (which netted me 5, empty) if you're going to run serious weight back there. When I added my drawers I had to add a 1" spacer to the rear.

This syncs with my current place ion thinking. While I am theoretically comfortable cutting sheet metal I don't have the time, space or capacity to do that. Ive been reading @Broski's as well as @Wermz. Very inspiring. Lots of skill and time committed at these cruisers. But, clearly not my path.

I do have 35's and wheel them I will. But, this is the moment to make all considerations before moving forward. Staying at 35" still seems the logical choice. I just needed to look at the path to 37" tires and get curious. The caution about taking care of my driveline while learning my rig is appreciated. So that helps me answer that. 35's. Done with that choice.

I also have been reading the dobbie threads, especially the reviews of the switch between new and old variable springs. Lots of interesting information there, but more focused on the 3.5" flavor with 37"'s.

Ok enough contemplation, I have some actually wrenching to do!

 

[baldilocks]

I now have a small parts habit. I think I will be crossing a large threshold when I order a new springs and shocks. Im just not clear on what direction to go.

The compiled suspension thread is amazing, but the threads about reviewing various coils are filled with lots of confusing noise and opinions. But I’m realizing some truths:

1. I want a complete suspension overhaul because I didn’t get to make the suspension choices. It’s currently ok, but I think it could be better.
2. I want DVS arms, so I need to settle on lift and tire size.
3. 35” tires are where I’m at for now. I’d like to wheel on them first, but I like the low lift big tire approach.
4. I don’t want to trailer my rig, and it needs to play nice on pavement loaded with camping gear for 4 and a 47lb Labrador. It can be less than perfect for the Starbucks run and crawling at the Mall of America.
5. Budget is capable of “buy once cry once” scale purchases. If I can keep the suspension budget at $3-4K for a well built system that would be ideal. especially if I’m not trying to change tires and wheel size today.

I am not taking the approach of “I want my rig to look like @_______’s,” but rather what I want my rig to be able to do, and how I want it to feel, and what compromises it can have to to them. I will be calling up my favorite vendor to discuss my choices. Hopefully my approach will be helpful to someone else with a glacially slow build.

I disagree that your build is super slow. I’ve had this particular 80 that sits in my garage now since 1/2016 and the build is on going. Once these front axle upgrades are finished, I have more wiring mods to make behind the dash and a new carpet kit and Tuffy console box to install. I’ve changed springs and shocks a few times, etc.

With regards to springs and shocks, these seem to be the area that brings on the most apprehension and this is why I have purchased used springs when I could so as to test the waters and not be out as much money if I wanted to go taller/lower or simply didn’t like what I had bought. I won’t go as far as to suggest springs and shocks but I will encourage you to install them before ordering DVS arms so you know exactly how much your rig is actually lifted. Enjoy the journey.

 

[FMC80]

Take a slight detour through NE TN, and I have a brand new set of Slinky's 75mm Heavy Duty coils, the Blackhawk panhard rods, upper and lower control arms, and all the ancillary items like extended brake lines and sway bar drop brackets, etc... It could all be yours!

 

[Spdstr280Z]

Take a slight detour through NE TN, and I have a brand new set of Slinky's 75mm Heavy Duty coils, the Blackhawk panhard rods, upper and lower control arms, and all the ancillary items like extended brake lines and sway bar drop brackets, etc... It could all be yours!

We could be twinsies ! Except I'm just running the intermediate or whatever. @FMC80 , you didn't like them, just went a different route, or ?

Jason

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Ok, I’ll get back to suspension banter soon I promise.

Did some greasy work.

Then this…

More grease

And the this

I used valvoline palladium 3% moly grease. I used 1.5 cans to pack the knuckle. It’s pretty runny and a hot mess to deal with, but as far as the inter webs say it’s a high quality grease…that is relatively easy to find at every NAPA. I know there are other bougie greases out there, but this should be fine. Compared to the valvoline moly grease in the 1lb tub that @OTRAMM uses in his videos this is way more stringy.

I was going to do the short side bearings, hub and flange, but my mobile one bearing grease is kinda funky looking. I could t do and another tub in town so I’ll go get some alternative grease and run that. No biggie.

Ok commence with suspension banter.

 

[FMC80]

We could be twinsies ! Except I'm just running the intermediate or whatever. @FMC80 , you didn't like them, just went a different route, or ?

Jason

Jason, I love the Slinky's. I have two extra sets on the shelf and don't need both. Love them otherwise. Maybe I should buy a third 80 again for the extra set?

 

[Feldrian]

Ok, I’ll get back to suspension banter soon I promise.

Did some greasy work.View attachment 3218176
Then this…View attachment 3218177
More grease View attachment 3218179
View attachment 3218180
And the this
View attachment 3218182
I used valvoline palladium 3% moly grease. I used 1.5 cans to pack the knuckle. It’s pretty runny and a hot mess to deal with, but as far as the inter webs say it’s a high quality grease…that is relatively easy to find at every NAPA. I know there are other bougie greases out there, but this should be fine. Compared to the valvoline moly grease in the 1lb tub that @OTRAMM uses in his videos this is way more stringy.

I was going to do the short side bearings, hub and flange, but my mobile one bearing grease is kinda funky looking. I could t do and another tub in town so I’ll go get some alternative grease and run that. No biggie.

Ok commence with suspension banter.

I wouldn't worry too much about bougie grease. None of them hold up if you have significant water intrusion, which is a real possibility considering what we do with these trucks. More important to keep them packed than pack them with the best gold-plated stuff out there. I just plan on tearing mine down for a repack annually.

 

[Spdstr280Z]

Maybe I should buy a third 80 again for the extra set?

Now you're talking ! I barely talked myself in to the first set, two extras on the shelf ? I see how you roll.

Jason

 

[Spdstr280Z]

Wait, you can reassemble these things without cleaning and painting all the parts..... Damn.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Wait, you can reassemble these things without cleaning and painting all the parts..... Damn.

Shocking isn’t it!

 

[ICY80]

Kind words! Thanks! A couple of things:

1. Do start your own thread, you will amass helpful folks who will help you spend your money. Plus they will cheer you on and tell you when your parts are on upside down/backwards.
2. I’m definitely a professional….but not in the automotive world by any stretch of the imagination.
3. The 80 series FAQ at the top of the 80 series forum is required reading if you haven’t found it already. You need to know the jargon, the TLAs (three letter acronyms) and the available resources.

Specifically regarding anything else to check on your rig? Brakes. These things are heavy. They stop. Some better than others. If your brakes suck and you are modded with lifts and tires and at 275k you need to go over that system well or you might accidentally kill someone trying to cross the street. Nobody will cheer for you then.

Now go start a build thread!

Thanks for the kind words. Still learning the forums lol. I appreciate all your information. Trying to tread carefully. There is some super nice people like yourself on here and some total jerks.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Thanks for the kind words. Still learning the forums lol. I appreciate all your information. Trying to tread carefully. There is some super nice people like yourself on here and some total jerks.

No worries! Lots of people here to help!

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Looks like that inner axle arrives on Monday…I think I’ll actually be able to get to some wrenching this weekend, but I’ll focus on the rear hubs and get that all squared away.

I also need to get serious about bringing power to the rear quarter and laying out the simple electrical system I need back there. As well as routing the airlines to the rear quarter so I can run that compressor. The air system needs some planning too. I want to figure out a clean way to bring air from the compressor to a quick connect hose for filling tires.

Still lots to do…

 

[baldilocks]

I went back three pages the other day and never did read about what brand your new axle shaft’s are.

I run an Outback Extreme Magnum compressor mounted in the area where the spare tire originally was and air is routed to a QD coupling at the front via DOT air brake hose and fittings.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I went back three pages the other day and never did read about what brand your new axle shaft’s are.

I run an Outback Extreme Magnum compressor mounted in the area where the spare tire originally was and air is routed to a QD coupling at the front via DOT air brake hose and fittings.

Good tips on air routing, thank you.

Axle brand, well I can’t say for sure. It’s the aftermarket one sold as regular duty at cruiser outfitters. I will look and see who the manufacturer was. I believe it’s stamped on the shaft.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Good tips on air routing, thank you.

Axle brand, well I can’t say for sure. It’s the aftermarket one sold as regular duty at cruiser outfitters. I will look and see who the manufacturer was. I believe it’s stamped on the shaft.

Axle brand of non fitting unit