Builds Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser (1 Viewer)

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Step 1: make a pig tail from this sensor connector and slip on some heat shrink tubing.View attachment 1656591

Step 2: strip the wires on the pigtail and also on the harness side. Twist them
Together as best you can in the limited space near the oil filter.

Step 3: solder the wires without melting/ damaging the multitude of other fragile stuff around (not enough hands or helpers for a photo).

Step 4: coax the heat shrink over the soldered joint and hit it with a low power heat gun until the heat shrink shrinks up.

Step 5: reconnect the electrical plugs, bolt up anything you unbolted to make room for your soldering, reset your ECU then go enjoy your fully functioning knock sensor.

View attachment 1656585

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Now regrettably I couldn’t get the NSS connector apart while I was down there. I really tried, but it’s so akward to get any grip on things let alone the tan lifted and the two parts separated.

So what suggestions do you have gor stuck electrical connectors. I was leary of using any penetrating oil. The last thing I’d like to do is rebuild that connector because I melted/ mangled it in an attempt to clean the internal connectors inside.

I’ll pull the wheel off again soon when I’m armed with some good ideas. Im pretty happy with my progress today. I even washed the rig. I’ll get after the paint at some point. It’s pretty oxidized and filthy, but no CEL so I’m a happy guy.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

It’s been rainy and wrenching underneath the rig in the driveway puddles is a nonstarter, but I did manage to get my passenger window regulator swapped out for a replacement. I cleaned the old grease off the motor, cleaned the runs out in place as best I could, hit the runs with silicone lube and then bolted it all back together.

I now have four fully functioning windows, which is 75%more than when I bought it. Yay!

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Well I'm disappointed to find that this current rainstorm has overwhelmed my sunroof. I'll have a look at the drains again and make sure that they working. I noticed that both corners of the windshield have a little drip running down them so a new windshield is still in my future. The sunroof issue worries me because I really don't want to replace the sunroof, as Im not convinced a new one (assuming I can get one) will solve the issue.

I've been researching fluids for a full fluid drain/ refill. I'm planning on doing the differentials, the transfer case and the transmission. I'm having a difficult time deciding on what brand of gear oil and transmission fluid to use given the multitude of opinions. Gear oil is pretty expensive depending on what you get. I've been over on the BITOG forum and i'm totally overwhelmed by the nerdy oil debates. I've used a lot of NAPA oil in my 22r-e pickup over the years, but this is new ground for me...I welcome your opinions!

I'm tackling the cooling system as a separate ordeal as I'm going to replace the weak links in that system including the hoses, thermostat, and cap.

I have a toyota exhaust mount in the mail so hopefully I can get the exhaust connected to a couple more points on the truck this weekend. Hopefully the rain stops soon...i'm kind of mossy.

 

[ppc]

As far as gear oil is concerned I run Mobil 1 synthetic in the transfer case and rear diff because I don't change them as frequently as the front diff because the front gets contaminated faster because of leaking axle seals. The front gets cheaper non-synthetic I get at Tractor Supply in 5 gallon jugs.

 

[brockdeck]

For gear oil you can choose to pay a lot to very little. The FAQ here has a very good write up regarding lubricants and everything you need to know. Many are happy with Chevron, Supertech from Wally world, or Coastal. 80W-90 sulfur flavored.

For me I am running M1 High Mileage 10-30 in the motor (high in ZDDP and lots of goodies), Toyota synthetic in the transmission, and standard 80-90 in my diffs because I am not paying $100 for gear lube that already lasts 30k.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Got my exhaust in order yesterday. The rough rattle is gone! Better still the new exhaust hanger went on easy and the old one came off much easier that I thought!

I Tried unsuccessfully again to get my NSS connector apart in an effort to solve my unlit PRND2L Reverse light to function. I cannot get this connector apart.

I understand how this clip works I think, but I couldn’t depress that small rectangular tab to the left of arrow. I think there is dimply 25 years worth of grime & heat cycles cementing it together. I’m contemplating taking it to a transmission shop in town where I’ve had work done on other Toyotas. As always I welcome your suggestions.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I used to have a tool similar to these for pulling connectors apart before I broke them

Use the pliers to pinch the tabs in (some connectors have two tabs)and grip the connector, use other hand to pull connector apart.

The ends of mine were hooked a little more I think

 

[mudgudgeon]

If no one else mentioned it, I'd put flush and bleed brakes, and inspect/rebuild calipers on your list of things to baseline

 

[Ed Camenzind]

I had a terrible time getting mine apart. I ended up waiting until I did my head gasket. Hopefully yours is in better shape than mine was. Could you use a pick to lift the tab a little?

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I used to have a tool similar to these for pulling connectors apart before I broke them

View attachment 1667375
Use the pliers to pinch the tabs in (some connectors have two tabs)and grip the connector, use other hand to pull connector apart.

The ends of mine were hooked a little more I think

This is a great lead. Do these type of pliers have a specific name?

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I had a terrible time getting mine apart. I ended up waiting until I did my head gasket. Hopefully yours is in better shape than mine was. Could you use a pick to lift the tab a little?

View attachment 1667505

That’s what I’m worried about finding. I’ll keep trying, but it’s definitely an ordeal to get my hands on that part.the outside actually looks pretty good, but I guess I could have fused plastic within

 

[Technician1985]

I broke mine apart, used contact cleaner, then put it back together with 4 zip ties (one around each end, two going parallel to the connector holding it together like this 0=0). It was the only thing on the truck I had to break to take apart.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I had my rig parked in a different sport in my driveway. I noticed my sunroof didn’t seem to seal up in the back. Is this normal?

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Ok I’ve had a long absence from posting updates on mud. Short story is that I’ve just been enjoying the heck out of my cruiser as my second vehicle. Long story is like a country western song. My mom passed away in April after suffering from Alzheimer’s, then a few weeks after saying farewell to my mother my beloved 14 year old Labrador died suddenly. I also had a logistically complex summer family canoe trip and I simply put my Land Cruiser project on the slow setting.

After returning home I amassed lots of new parts for the badelinjng project and did a garage re-arrange so I could work on it inside when the Pacific Northwest winter rain returned.

So I’m happy to say I dove in earlier this week and began working on the project again.

I also have a new helper...

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

So now that my backstory/ update in brevity is completed I’m currently rebuilding the the front knuckles. I’ve never done anything quite like this, but the FAQ has been helpful, so has my Wit’s End poster, And my FSM. It’s been straight forward so far. I had a sheared stud in the right side I need to get out.

Everything else looks pretty good.

Not soupy at all!

The PO May have (or one of them) had the bearings replaced fairly recently as
They were full of clean bright red grease. They have no markings on them and show very little wear. Hub grease seals are national brand. The trunion bearings appear to be old. They are koyo and one was broken and spewed the rollers when I attempted to clean it up.

I have a rebuild kit from Cruiser Corps. Sadly it didn’t have bug grease seals so I had to go to my local Toyota dealer in Bellingham to get them...$50 for the pair. I could have ordered them from eBay’s UAE sellers but I’m hot to get this back on the road.

The bench now has both sides worth of parts on it. It was just to late and my hands were too freakin greasy to snap more pics! Off to the dealer for my seals!

 

[TomOsborne]

So now that my backstory/ update in brevity is completed I’m currently rebuilding the the front knuckles. I’ve never done anything quite like this, but the FAQ has been helpful, so has my Wit’s End poster, And my FSM. It’s been straight forward so far. I had a sheared stud in the right side I need to get out. View attachment 1870008
Everything else looks pretty good.
View attachment 1870010
Not soupy at all!

The PO May have (or one of them) had the bearings replaced fairly recently as
They were full of clean bright red grease. They have no markings on them and show very little wear. Hub grease seals are national brand. The trunion bearings appear to be old. They are koyo and one was broken and spewed the rollers when I attempted to clean it up.

I have a rebuild kit from Cruiser Corps. Sadly it didn’t have bug grease seals so I had to go to my local Toyota dealer in Bellingham to get them...$50 for the pair. I could have ordered them from eBay’s UAE sellers but I’m hot to get this back on the road.
View attachment 1870011
The bench now has both sides worth of parts on it. It was just to late and my hands were too freakin greasy to snap more pics! Off to the dealer for my seals!

You got this good job. Thats a good looking knuckle, you should have seen mine. Might as well flip the axles while your at it.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

What do you mean by flip the axles? Would you elaborate please? I’m admittedly a very new hobbiest mechanic and not sure exactly what you mean.

 

[Box Rocket]

So now that my backstory/ update in brevity is completed I’m currently rebuilding the the front knuckles. I’ve never done anything quite like this, but the FAQ has been helpful, so has my Wit’s End poster, And my FSM. It’s been straight forward so far. I had a sheared stud in the right side I need to get out. View attachment 1870008
Everything else looks pretty good.
View attachment 1870010
Not soupy at all!

The PO May have (or one of them) had the bearings replaced fairly recently as
They were full of clean bright red grease. They have no markings on them and show very little wear. Hub grease seals are national brand. The trunion bearings appear to be old. They are koyo and one was broken and spewed the rollers when I attempted to clean it up.

I have a rebuild kit from Cruiser Corps. Sadly it didn’t have bug grease seals so I had to go to my local Toyota dealer in Bellingham to get them...$50 for the pair. I could have ordered them from eBay’s UAE sellers but I’m hot to get this back on the road.
View attachment 1870011
The bench now has both sides worth of parts on it. It was just to late and my hands were too freakin greasy to snap more pics! Off to the dealer for my seals!

Good looking pup!

 

[Box Rocket]

What do you mean by flip the axles? Would you elaborate please? I’m admittedly a very new hobbiest mechanic and not sure exactly what you mean.

I think he means switch the birfields side to side. Doing so will have the balls/cage/bell making contact in new places and can eliminate any clicking noise your birfs might have (clicking is caused by wear in the birfs. Changing the wear pattern can help eliminate it......for a while.)