Builds Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser

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So I took a different direction tonight than I was anticipating. I pulled my differential off the axle and I’m taking it in to a shop to have them install a new pinion seal and set the preload/ crush sleeve. I read a number of threads about doing the on vehicle pinion seal replacement and attempted it back in September, but it leaked worse afterwards. Anyhow after consulting with the gurus of this forum and thinking about it more I just decided to pull the diff and take it to a shop to have them set it up. I’d love to learn how to do this myself, but it seem like this might be a great place to turn to the professionals.

Anyhow I took some pics to remember the first time I pulled a diff. Too bad I didn’t get one of it on my chest. I can confirm it’s heavy!
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The leaking seal.
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Ok so I’m waiting on my third member to come back from the shop and some trunion bearings and seals to come in the mail to finish up this front axle job.

I cleaned up my diff mounting surface so it’s ready for the gasket and the third member to go back on.
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I also got my NSS harness unplugged! Hooray! I’ve been sousing it with electrical contact cleaner and wiggling it and it finally came apart. It’s pretty filthy inside, but not as bad as some photos I’ve seen. The switch side plug has a broken wire and also is corroded. I’m trying to decide if I should replace it, and new vs. used.
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Switch side:
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Any thoughts on cleaning the harness side? It’s a total PITA to work in this space. Toothpick?

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Ok so I’m waiting on my third member to come back from the shop and some trunion bearings and seals to come in the mail to finish up this front axle job.

I cleaned up my diff mounting surface so it’s ready for the gasket and the third member to go back on.View attachment 1883537

I also got my NSS harness unplugged! Hooray! I’ve been sousing it with electrical contact cleaner and wiggling it and it finally came apart. It’s pretty filthy inside, but not as bad as some photos I’ve seen. The switch side plug has a broken wire and also is corroded. I’m trying to decide if I should replace it, and new vs. used.View attachment 1883539
Switch side:View attachment 1883542

Any thoughts on cleaning the harness side? It’s a total PITA to work in this space. Toothpick?

View attachment 1883538
This is a little ghetto, but Perhaps start by cutting the head off of a toothbrush, and mounting it to a little dowel? Throw that in a drill chuck, soak the whole mess again with contact cleaner and brush away.....dry with 100psi out of a compressor?
 
Ok so I’ve cleaned up the NSS plugs a bit and I’ve discovered the next layer to this problem. The middle terminal position has a rusted and broken off spade stuck in it from my NSS side plug. After inspecting the NSS plug wire on the back side of my plug It’s corroded and no longer attached to the plug. That pin supposedly is the one that connects my PNRD2L lights or my shifter position lights if I understand the wiring correctly (and I might not!) the non operating reverse lights are likely due to the corrosion in the terminals.

So, I’m going to have to remove that broken spade without screwing up the harness side connector.
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I’ve cleaned off some of the corrosion with this setup
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But it’s not really dissolving any of the corrosion in the connector. I think I’m going to purchase a set of tiny terminal cleaners to do this for the harness as it’s now discontinued according to Beno. I’ve read about using a baking soda solution to dissolve the corrosion, but the space in which to work is really tricky and I’m still searching for a solution in a can since I can’t do this side of the plug on the bench. As for the broken spade stuck in the harness side plug I think I’m going to see if my fishing forceps are able to grab it, other wise I’m shopping for hemostats and forceps with narrow and skinny gripping surfaces.
 
Would vinegar work? It dissolves iron oxide very well but I'm not sure what it would do to the mix of metals that are likely present.

Could be water soluble too. If you have access to compressed air, you could spray some distilled water in there and blow it out and see what happens.
 
Why not simply replace the male and female plugs with a different style waterproof connector?
Find something here Motorcycle Connectors :meh:
 
Would vinegar work? It dissolves iron oxide very well but I'm not sure what it would do to the mix of metals that are likely present.

Could be water soluble too. If you have access to compressed air, you could spray some distilled water in there and blow it out and see what happens.
I just bought a sprayer to give white vinegar a try. I was thinking of this as well.
Why not simply replace the male and female plugs with a different style waterproof connector?
Find something here Motorcycle Connectors :meh:
I also have this in the back of my mind as an option. If I don’t have to cut the factory harness to put a 9 pin connector on it I’d be pretty happy. I know Others have done this with success, but I’m not excited to head this direction.
 
Used a spray bottle of white viniger and a dental pick to clean my harness side connector. I loosened the crumbling and broken spade and it eventually fell out. When I sprayed the terminal there was a visible reaction of bubbles as the viniger reacted with all the corrosion. I then used my extra tiny air compressor to blow out the viniger and debris. I did this cycle three times and I thought things looked pretty good.
Before:
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After:
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The Switch side plug spades started disintegrating when I cleaned them. So I’m shopping for a 1993-94 NSS. Another couple hundred bucks to the Land Cruiser, but reverse lights and PND2L lights might be worth it.
 
Used a spray bottle of white viniger and a dental pick to clean my harness side connector. I loosened the crumbling and broken spade and it eventually fell out. When I sprayed the terminal there was a visible reaction of bubbles as the viniger reacted with all the corrosion. I then used my extra tiny air compressor to blow out the viniger and debris. I did this cycle three times and I thought things looked pretty good.
Before:View attachment 1885629
After:View attachment 1885630
The Switch side plug spades started disintegrating when I cleaned them. So I’m shopping for a 1993-94 NSS. Another couple hundred bucks to the Land Cruiser, but reverse lights and PND2L lights might be worth it.


There is a thread on here made by @beno for all the electrical plugs. Need to do a search for it. He shows pics and P/N's for every connector in the engine compartment I believe.
 
I had the opportunity to speak with him on the phone when I ordered my brake rotors, he’s been very generous with his knowledge, but my understanding from others is that this particular plug is not available. But this sounds like a good thread to find and bookmark. Thanks got the tip!
 
I got my trunion bearing races installed. I managed to smash my finger with the hammer holding the race driver. Carnage!
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So I’ve checked the boxes for blood and sweat...
 
I got my trunion bearing races installed. I managed to smash my finger with the hammer holding the race driver. Carnage!View attachment 1887003
So I’ve checked the boxes for blood and sweat...

It's an official project now! One must bleed on it in order to christen it correctly!
 
It's an official project now! One must bleed on it in order to christen it correctly!
I think I simply made a feeble attempt at becoming one with my cruiser....my finger thinks I’m an idiot.
 
Last of the parts arrived for this project, and I picked up some black FIPG so I can chase down the lower oil pan leak...
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Got the Differential bolted back to the axle as well as the drive shaft attached to the pinion flange. That feels great. My local driveline shop up here in Bellingham, WA charged me $67 to install the seal and set the diff up.

I also put a new breather cap on my front axle breather. The old one was falling apart after I cleaned it.

I also replaced the NSS with my brand new Toyota one. I fished the plugs up and over the transmission to behind the starter with some long cable ties. Now I was pretty excited to plug it all in and gain reverse lights, PRND2L indicator lights on the dash and on the shifter, but no joy. I did get the NSS adjusted and it starts up in neutral and park, but my reverse lights remain non functioning.

There is the possibility the there is damage to the harness side female connector, but it’s really hard to tell. I can’t really look closely inside. So I’ll probably get out the multimeter and try to see if I can devine any more information.

Finally I installed the inner oil seals and I’m getting ready to put the knuckles back together. Perhaps tomorrow or possibly in the evening next week. This project competes with family time, especially at my plodding pace. But I think slow matches my skill level for now.
 
Ok I was I tending to put the axles back together tonight. I was enjoying my church of the holy wrench and I hit a wall. I cannot get my DS axle to spline with the diff. I believe I’m in the inner unsplined part of the diff, but for the life of me I cannot get it to seat in the splines.
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I searched the forum a bit and tried rotating the front drive shaft. I have the flats up and down. I’ve tried pushing down and trying to force the shaft to lift a tiny bit, but I cannot seem to get the darn thing in. I’m calling it for the evening. It’s almost 11 and I’m probably making stupid mistakes, but it’s my first axle job and this step is eluding me.
 
Ok, I did some deep breathing and I think I seated my shaft just fine. I installed the PS and when it rotates the DS rotates the opposite direction. So that would only happen if I was properly seated correct? I’m calling it for the night. The unheated garage is super cold and I’m exhausted! I’ll finish tomorrow.
 

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