Builds Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser

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Great thread... just got my first 80 and I’m going through the same process. Can we compare rear window rust spots? I’m wondering if this is a common problem and if so, what is the cause. Here’s mine:

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Not trying to hihack, but thought we could help each other solve a mutual problem.

Good luck brother, I’ll be following your progress.
FWIW I have the same spot, and in White...
 
Great thread... just got my first 80 and I’m going through the same process. Can we compare rear window rust spots? I’m wondering if this is a common problem and if so, what is the cause. Here’s mine:

View attachment 1649749

Not trying to hihack, but thought we could help each other solve a mutual problem.

Good luck brother, I’ll be following your progress.
FWIW I have the same spot, and in White...
 
Really common to get a pronounced whistle from the exhaust if the resonator is removed. Mine was LOUD when I cut off the resonator. Too loud. I needed some exhaust work done anyway so I had the cats replaced as well as the muffler with a Magnaflow and the whistle is gone. The Magnaflow and cats are louder than stock but not bad.

Let's see this Blue interior. You sure it isn't grey?
I guess it’s referred to as gray. I’m new!
FWIW I have the same spot, and in White...
There must be a rusty spot poll: R or L?!
 
Not a lot to add, but my tailpipe was similar, plus it had a broken insulator or two upstream. Rattled like a mofo. I added a cheapie hanger near the end, worked well. There’s a few captured nuts in the frame to choose from for mounting it.
 
Not a lot to add, but my tailpipe was similar, plus it had a broken insulator or two upstream. Rattled like a mofo. I added a cheapie hanger near the end, worked well. There’s a few captured nuts in the frame to choose from for mounting it.
thanks surfpig, I'm making a shopping list and a hanger is now on it. I suspect I'll be replacing it in the nearish future, but i'd like to reduce the strain on things before its gets good and properly busted. Im actually wondering if the kink int eh tailpipe and disconnected hangers were attempts to fit the tuner and down stream pipe with the labs bumper by the shop who installed this stuff. Im still scratching my head, because as far as I can tell l think the PO really wasn't doing any repairs on the rig...o_O
 
FWIW I have the same spot, and in White...
FWIW I have the same spot, and in White...
My rust is a bit worse (so I win right?), but was in that panel from under when replacing the outer upper latch handle and it was clean on the inside, but it must be addressed. Figure new gasket if it is available somewhere. So pull the glass, clean, sand, prime, paint. or POR. Got to love the NE rust. looks a bit drippy bc I hit it with fluid film just so it does not get worse this winter.

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My rust is a bit worse (so I win right?), but was in that panel from under when replacing the outer upper latch handle and it was clean on the inside, but it must be addressed. Figure new gasket if it is available somewhere. So pull the glass, clean, sand, prime, paint. or POR. Got to love the NE rust. looks a bit drippy bc I hit it with fluid film just so it does not get worse this winter.

View media item 67623
Yea you win! NE rust is so brutal.
 
Yep. All mine are too.
 
So i have a whistle too. It sounds like it comes from the engine bay, but its hard to tell. I have stock exhaust but 272k on it, so most likely that, however i think it could be one of my belts, theyre all trashed and one has flipped over, but not off. I flipped it back once, but within 100 miles it was back. Grtting replaced soon.
 
So I made some progress this weekend with my 2nd row drivers window. PO had it held in place with duct tape and I was able to finally get the glass seated back into the glass channel with the new filler i picked up at the dealer a couple of weeks ago. It was a bit of a process to pull it all apart, but it was straight forward to do once I committed to pulling the runs out. I mostly followed the FSM instructions, but to seat the glass put the rubber filler strip on the glass got things lubed up with VERY soapy water (my hippy soap wasn't slippery enough) then I tapped the metal glass channel onto the run with a plastic tipped hammer starting at one side and working my way over. My helper was in the sandbox, so no photos of this part.

Before I reassembled the window I took my window runs over to the kitchen sink. They were in pretty good shape so I thought I would try and clean them well with a bottle brush/ straw cleaner and see if i could eek a bit of life out of them. I cleaned the rubber around the quarter window and did my best to clean off the run channels and all the other parts that interfaced with the windows.
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I reassemble following the FSM as best I could. I only ran into trouble re inserting the runs with the window in the door. Silicone lube was my friend and helped over come the friction of the rubber. I'm happy to report that the window now functions. It is slow, even with a ton of silicone lube in the runs, but I think it will be passable for now. The most time consuming part was removing the duct tape reside from the edge of the run and the glass.
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I also picked up a temporary exhaust hanger from napa, while I was out I picked up a temporary hanger from napa. It turns out that I do still have a hanger at the rear bumper, but it is somewhat inaccessible. I haven't really sorted out how I'll effect a permanent exhaust solution, but when I eventually replace the tailpipe and muffler I'll make a greater effort to utilize the stock hangers and their nifty pads.
 
I'm slowly working on the other issues this truck has. I started the Knock sensor removal process and managed to get Knock Sensor #1 out and a replacement toyota one in place. I tested the old sensor with my multimeter and it appears to have no continuity between the terminal and the body of the sensor. It appears that I now have a spare sensor. I discovered that the connector for sensor #1 is also broken. I had this electrical connector confused with my temp gauge sender. The connector wire broke where it enters the connector.
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So I have three engine compartment pig tail installs in my future. I think I’ve found the appropriate pigtails to use to fix my knock sensors, however the pigtail to connect to my temp sender has a broken retaining clip and is just pressed on. I’m Happy that the gauge functions now.

I also have a new $5 wing nut coming to my local dealer. There is a lot of air being pulled into the air cleaner box at idle, so I have a hunch that my whistle drone is coming from this spot, since it seems like the noise is coming from the passenger side of the engine bay.
 
Looks great! Good to see that you are jumping right in on things.

As others have said, I would fix that tailpipe. The Toyota parts aren't that much more expensive and they are a perfect fit. If you would like, you could try leveraging your local dealer by showing them what McGeorge is selling parts for. McGeorge Toyota Parts Online | Your Source for Genuine Toyota online parts | parts.mcgeorgetoyota.com

My local dealer has been price matching or better against them and their thought is that they would rather make something off me rather than nothing and they don't bill me for shipping. It's a good relationship and they are always happy to see me and I like working with them and I have yet to get an incorrect part from them.

If you get into a bunch of electrical stuff, I have a copy of the EWD for the 1994 that should be pretty close to the 1993. I don't know how to upload it here, but if you PM me your email address, I am happy to share it with you.
 
Looks great! Good to see that you are jumping right in on things.

As others have said, I would fix that tailpipe. The Toyota parts aren't that much more expensive and they are a perfect fit. If you would like, you could try leveraging your local dealer by showing them what McGeorge is selling parts for. McGeorge Toyota Parts Online | Your Source for Genuine Toyota online parts | parts.mcgeorgetoyota.com

My local dealer has been price matching or better against them and their thought is that they would rather make something off me rather than nothing and they don't bill me for shipping. It's a good relationship and they are always happy to see me and I like working with them and I have yet to get an incorrect part from them.

If you get into a bunch of electrical stuff, I have a copy of the EWD for the 1994 that should be pretty close to the 1993. I don't know how to upload it here, but if you PM me your email address, I am happy to share it with you.
Thanks for the encouragement! I ordered my 02 sensor from McGeorge and it was far far less than Wilson Toyota, my nearest dealer. The folks there are very nice, so maybe they would be willing to match prices. As far as I can tell a stock exhaust would route directly under edge of the rear bumper. I need to see how other folks with 4x4 labs bumpers have dealt with exhaust. More researching to do.
 
Thanks for the encouragement! I ordered my 02 sensor from McGeorge and it was far far less than Wilson Toyota, my nearest dealer. The folks there are very nice, so maybe they would be willing to match prices. As far as I can tell a stock exhaust would route directly under edge of the rear bumper. I need to see how other folks with 4x4 labs bumpers have dealt with exhaust. More researching to do.
Yeah man, you are diving in hard, Nice work. great pics, something I have not gotten to yet.
 
Thanks folks. I have a few little parts comming in the mail, so once the rain lets up again I shall continue addressing that list.

My 1 car garage is tall enough to fit my cruiser but it’s difficult to move around when l have it in there and the lighting is terrible! This photo is from when I discovered the sunroof leak the day after I purchased it. :bang:
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I live in a neighborhood where I am lucky to have a garage, so I try not to complain. But a space to tear into this rig rain or shine would be excellent. I guess I could pare down all my crap a bit, nevermind all the additional gear in the garage attic, but up until now I only ever wanted a garage for boats, bikes, and gear storage.
 
I didn't see fluid change on here specifically, so I will add: coolant, diffs, t-case and trans drain/fill. Made my truck much smoother/quiet, fwiw.
Thanks Bill, I'll add it to the list. The diffs got done 14 month ago according to the records, but I do plan on setting a complete base line on all fluids so I can have peace of mind. i'm hopeful for a long trip this july so i'm shooting for peace of mind!

Im planing on doing the coolant when I change the PHH (speaking of peace of mind). I'm pretty sure I'll do a complete set of new hoses, but the hoses for now. I have no idea the state of the radiator, but I'll bet it's only so-so given the big picture of overall maintenance on the rig. Not utterly neglected, but not obsessed over...of course that is changing!
 
Ok I just got my second knock sensor installed and I only managed to beak the retaining clip on the connector....these things are so fragile. I pressed it back on, but it obviously needs a new connector (already in the mail).

So since I’m down here and the wheel is off I’m checking out my NSS plugs to see if I can rule out corrosion or a loose connection in my quest to get reverse and gear indicator lights.

Here’s my question. How does the larger barrel connector come apart? I’m afraid of busting yet another plug, especially this one. It’s effing tight in there but is there some retaining clip I’m missing?
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The one I’m wrestling with is the round one in the middle. Thanks in advance.
 
I cleared up my CEL today-so satisfying! The cruiser feels like it is exploding off the line now even with 315’s. I installed my #2 knock sensor and soldered a new connector for my #1 knock sensor.
 

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