Builds Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser (13 Viewers)

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Internet search yields that it is likely: Stud Hex Lobular - Toyota (90901-26001). I found this as part of the "cylinder block" group when using the Partsouq look up for my vin. They seem to be available, but I would like to confirm that it is indeed this part before I deal with Bellingham Toyota.
stupid sheared lobular stud.webp


I'm still puzzling over why this sheared. I just tested my torque wrench on a bolt and nut on the bench vise and it clicked very clearly. It felt ike it was turning easily, so who knows. Ill probably repost this as a with the hopes of getting confirmation today.
 
Internet search yields that it is likely: Stud Hex Lobular - Toyota (90901-26001). I found this as part of the "cylinder block" group when using the Partsouq look up for my vin. They seem to be available, but I would like to confirm that it is indeed this part before I deal with Bellingham Toyota.View attachment 2858270

I'm still puzzling over why this sheared. I just tested my torque wrench on a bolt and nut on the bench vise and it clicked very clearly. It felt ike it was turning easily, so who knows. Ill probably repost this as a with the hopes of getting confirmation today.

Could be any number of reason. Poor metal quality in a batch. Previously over torqued.
It could have broken at a torque lower than you set. I've broken an arp head stud. Torque wrench was set at 95 ft/lbs and it broke way before that. And my torque wrench is a very nice snap on.
 
Could be any number of reason. Poor metal quality in a batch. Previously over torqued.
It could have broken at a torque lower than you set. I've broken an arp head stud. Torque wrench was set at 95 ft/lbs and it broke way before that. And my torque wrench is a very nice snap on.
Well obviously I'm leaning towards anything that isn't may fault! But hopefully I can just get a new one in with no drama, and continue towards completion.
 
Well obviously I'm leaning towards anything that isn't may fault! But hopefully I can just get a new one in with no drama, and continue towards completion.

100%

If the torque wrench was set correctly and the bolt broke before torque there was an issue with the bolt.
 
100%

If the torque wrench was set correctly and the bolt broke before torque there was an issue with the bolt.
It is a little bit of a guessing game sometimes when you question the quality of your tools, but I do think there was some earlier trauma to this stud. It was just really weird, and unexpected. Thanks for the encouragement! It helps!
 
And seals, grommets, o-rings, and gaskets for fuel filter are on their way.
 
PartSouq order arrived without 1 of my manifold gaskets….my online invoice says Qty ordered 1, quantity sent 0.

Bummer.

Too bad I didn’t catch this earlier. I wonder what it was like in the mid 2000’s when every thread talks about calling up cDan and getting what you need, and getting good customer service, and getting a good deal…I know, I know…pick two of the three and quit complaining.

More wrench tomorrow, hopefully less breaking s***. I didn’t even tell you about how every plastic piece that retains the engine harness loom shatters if you try and move it.
 
You remind me to be grateful that I’m past this baselining headache (for the most part) .
This honestly seems less like baselining and more like repairing neglect.

To me baselining should be getting a running rig up to par. Not a tear down and rebuild lol.
 
This honestly seems less like baselining and more like repairing neglect.

To me baselining should be getting a running rig up to par. Not a tear down and rebuild lol.
I’m sad to say I’ve only ever thought of baselining as repairing neglect. But I see your point!
 
Well I have certainly reached the quota for the year ordering parts from my local dealer. My second intake gasket from PS never shipped $4.72 refunded to my account. I called Bellingham Toyota and purchased the same part $14. MSRP on toyota parts is $8.97, so I just paid 35% over MSRP...which is a great business model for promoting "I'll buy parts from these guys only when Im kinda against a wall or pressed for time".

I know, I should stop complaining and just vote with my dollars. I guess I'm always expecting them to be less expensive...why is that?
OK, back to work on the truck....the list is getting shorter, finally. I'll take some pictures of any carnage, I know thats why you're here anyway :flipoff2:
 
My new goal on used Toyota’s :slap:
You didn’t buy a “used Toyota”. You bought an ancient Toyota. Most other models from 1993 have long ago joined the scrap heap. The fact your 1993 cruiser was even still breathing after so many years of minimal maintenance is testimony to the quality of its original build. Now, stop complaining and enjoy your time on one of easiest cars you’ll ever work on. :flipoff2:
 
You didn’t buy a “used Toyota”. You bought an ancient Toyota. Most other models from 1993 have long ago joined the scrap heap. The fact your 1993 cruiser was even still breathing after so many years of minimal maintenance is testimony to the quality of its original build. Now, stop complaining and enjoy your time on one of easiest cars you’ll ever work on. :flipoff2:
it’s true! If I can work on it it has got to be easy!
 
New o ring on transfer case speed sensor. Ridiculously easy oil leak fix.
5EB29F5B-EFE5-469A-853A-3DDBE8CC02B1.jpeg


I also finished up the last remaining odd sized vacuum lines with some from NAPA. I’m not actually clear what size it was. But I walked in with my little plastic fitting and we tried tubing until it fit. Done. Oh, I also replaced the two orang and black check valves. One was not functioning and leaking when tested. I am planning on checking the rest of the valves as per FSM, but it’s gonna be a minute.

The high school up the street from my kid’s middle school went on lock down in the middle of my wrenching sessions. I was preoccupied trying to figure out how concerned I should be. So hopefully more progress tomorrow.
 
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Testing
7812BAF1-BFCF-4BA4-B91F-35232C55E34A.webp


VCV seems to fail. It won’t hold a vacuum. Since I’ve taken ownership it’s always had the evap lines from the charcoal canister falling off. I suspect that over the last decade dust and grit have gotten in there and fouled the vacuum seal…or I’m not very good at testing with this mighty-vac contraption. I’ll keep going through the evap system tests tomorrow and make some decisions.
 
Great work so far! I just changed my trans fluid and noticed my speed sensor leaking oil. Do you just loosen the one bolt and it comes straight out or is there a trick to pulling it from the tranny case? Thanks and keep the carnage, err, pics coming.
New o ring on transfer case speed sensor. Ridiculously easy oil leak fix.
View attachment 2859432

I also finished up the last remaining odd sized vacuum lines with some from NAPA. I’m not actually clear what size it was. But I walked in with my little plastic fitting and we tried tubing until it fit. Done. Oh, I also replaced the two orang and black check valves. One was not functioning and leaking when tested. I am planning on checking the rest of the valves as per FSM, but it’s gonna be a minute.

The high school up the street from my kid’s middle school went on lock down in the middle of my wrenching sessions. I was preoccupied trying to figure out how concerned I should be. So hopefully more progress tomorrow.
 
Great work so far! I just changed my trans fluid and noticed my speed sensor leaking oil. Do you just loosen the one bolt and it comes straight out or is there a trick to pulling it from the tranny case? Thanks and keep the carnage, err, pics coming.
Yep the 12mm bolt with the key. The key is designed to drop on your face when you remove the bolt and carefully pull out the sensor. FSM (and all posts about this leak) say to unplug the sensor, my plug was pretty stuck, so I left it in after breaking so much plastic this week. It barely clears my garage floor on 315’s so be careful you don’t eff up the plastic gear. It looks like the same material as the seat gears if you’ve been down that road.
 

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