Thanks for the tip, I don't pull on anything without checking procedures first on an 80, a lesson learned from pulling out my AFM plug and effing it up last year.
Builds Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser
- Thread starter PNWTreeOctopus
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #422
Yikes! I have read about that gotcha, but fortunately I haven't managed to mess that one up yet. Did you have to buy a new AFM? That's a hard lesson if so...I hate those.
I tried resoldering the tabs and got it working but with a code 24. I found a used one on here from a member parting out a '93 and it works like a champ on my '94.
I was just thinking today that I've only put around 1000 miles on mine since I bought it in Sept. 2019 and I've had the following mishaps: Front caliper bolt came out while on the road, Alternator shiite the bed while on the road, I f'ed up the AFM, my ram broke the tab on a fender flare, the A/C has been intermittent, had to rebuild the birfs because they were really loose and leaking, and now my brake booster failed(ordered new one monday). So I've been a bit gun shy on driving this thing any long distance, but will keep plugging away at it until I feel confident.
Your thread and @FMC80 thread are real motivators for me to get the baselining done. I've collected most of the necessary heater hoses, PHH, heater valve, clamps,etc to get ahead of any cooling system failures, and a starter rebuild kit that I will take care of when the new booster gets here, so hope that will do for a while.
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #424
Done with EVAP Testing (for now)
I finished up going through the FSM EVAP and Emissions system and worked through the system. My only outright failure was the VCV I mentioned earlier. I tested the function off all the valves/switches, as well as their continuity and resistance. One Ohm value was 29ohms and should have been 30-34 at 68f, so I think that it was ok at 29ohms at 38f (its a mixed rain and snow kinda day here in Bellingham and Im glad to be in my garage doing this, but it is detached and unheated.
I really enjoyed this process, despite being overwhelmed by it when I first realized I should do this. The having all the tools on hand was nice too. That stubby VESSEL JIS2 screwdriver made removing the VSV so nice. If you haven't bought a set of VESSEL JIS screwdrivers yet you really should. Ive never owned nice screwdrivers before, just hand me down ones, and random multi bit ones. These are a pleasure to use and I really like them. The little screw that held the VSV was on very tight and had heat cycled a few times since 1993. It took a fair amount of torque and I was surprised and pleased that it didn't slip at all. Im sure if I used one of my previous screwdrivers it would have slipped a bit or maybe worse. The pleasure of a good tool at a reasonable price.
So yet another order to another vendor for this new VCV. I'm excited to give my business to CityRacer @Racer65 for this little part, plus a nice set of Toyota engine adjust tools. I think this business has its heart and soul into the true classics (40's and 60's) but they also have nice parts for my 80 too and the prices are so reasonable, what's not to love? Secretly I'm hoping to score a 40 series some day when I have proper covered storage for a new rig....which means a new home, which is a big day dream and not happening anytime soon.
Ok, still more to do and now that I can feel my toes I'm heading back out.
I finished up going through the FSM EVAP and Emissions system and worked through the system. My only outright failure was the VCV I mentioned earlier. I tested the function off all the valves/switches, as well as their continuity and resistance. One Ohm value was 29ohms and should have been 30-34 at 68f, so I think that it was ok at 29ohms at 38f (its a mixed rain and snow kinda day here in Bellingham and Im glad to be in my garage doing this, but it is detached and unheated.
I really enjoyed this process, despite being overwhelmed by it when I first realized I should do this. The having all the tools on hand was nice too. That stubby VESSEL JIS2 screwdriver made removing the VSV so nice. If you haven't bought a set of VESSEL JIS screwdrivers yet you really should. Ive never owned nice screwdrivers before, just hand me down ones, and random multi bit ones. These are a pleasure to use and I really like them. The little screw that held the VSV was on very tight and had heat cycled a few times since 1993. It took a fair amount of torque and I was surprised and pleased that it didn't slip at all. Im sure if I used one of my previous screwdrivers it would have slipped a bit or maybe worse. The pleasure of a good tool at a reasonable price.
So yet another order to another vendor for this new VCV. I'm excited to give my business to CityRacer @Racer65 for this little part, plus a nice set of Toyota engine adjust tools. I think this business has its heart and soul into the true classics (40's and 60's) but they also have nice parts for my 80 too and the prices are so reasonable, what's not to love? Secretly I'm hoping to score a 40 series some day when I have proper covered storage for a new rig....which means a new home, which is a big day dream and not happening anytime soon.
Ok, still more to do and now that I can feel my toes I'm heading back out.
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #425
Dang. Thats a tough start. The first trip I took was in February from Bellingham Wa, to Wildwood, Alberta. the truck still had the CEL and bad Knock sensors and all the rest of the problems this whole thread has been about. I figure since I was on my way to a winter survival course I should at least be able to not die of hypothermia in my car if it died in the Canadian Rockies. I knew I was rolling the dice, and it worked out ok, but I think about that trip and how all the things you mentioned could have gone wrong on it.
I am pursuing this baselining because of the deep neglect and like others who follow this thread, @baldilocks, I don't typically travel with other 4WD's when I seek my favorite desolate spots out. As such I too am seeking deep reliability, which was one of the reasons the Toyota Land Cruiser platform appeals to me. Its such a robust system, can be lubricated with camel piss, runs on the worst possibly fuel, and can endure decades of neglect and still do what is asked of it. When in top mechanical condition and built well it will go places I'd pause before I'd walk across.
@sogafarm its clear from your avatar that you have experience dealing with tough situations, so im excited to cheer you on. I think us 93-94 community folks are really lucky to have some excellent mentors who have built and rebuilt more than one truck and take the execution of maintenance to exacting standards. So while I appreciate your thanks, lets be real a second. It's the folks like @baldilocks, @BILT4ME, @Malleus, @OGBeno who have offered very helpful pieces of advice and encouragement. I guess its like buying your dream house and realizing that your next door neighbors are the best neighbors you have ever had without ever meeting them before. Thats how I feel about my Land Cruiser and this community.
We should do that Washington cross country adventure trail, or whatever it’s called, next year. Then we won’t be out there alone. 
We should do that Washington cross country adventure trail, or whatever it’s called, next year. Then we won’t be out there alone.
Wabdr
Washington back roads discovery route
^^^^ What he said.
I'm game.
Some time before July is probably best so as to avoid forest fire season.
That's fine. I have a 9 day road trip to Cali in julu
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #432
Ok, I now have both gaskets for the upper intake on hand, and my new lobular stud. I'll install the stud tomorrow morning. I did clean off the majority of the muck and grime on the alternator. The label says made in 07, so compared with the rest of the rig, its pretty fresh. Seeing a toyota alternator in there gives me a glimmer of hope that in 2007 the owner was actually trying to maintain the Land Crusier. I'm not planning on replacing the Alternator, I haven't had any reason to doubt it yet. Hopefully hosing it down with Electrical Degreaser (specifically for Alternators or energized parts) I'm hoping that it will last another many years before needing a new one.
I also marked my driveshafts so I could have them in phase when I pull them. I tried again to break loose the bolts and I just couldn't seem to get anything to move. So another round of penetrating oil on all the fasteners. I think I must be missing something. I know they are meant to be torqued tight, but I cannot seem to get any to move. The fasteners are all in super nice shape too, the bolts look fresh and are not marred at all, but I cant seem to get anything to move. I have a double offset 14mm wrench that is pretty long and fits well, and several nice 14mm wrenches, but nothing really long. I think I used my Pittsburg long handled 14mm combination wrench, but when I tried it the other day it felt like it was slipping and starting to round. It's a shame because its really long and offers lots of leverage. I'm not opposed to buying a nice long handled 14mm wrench, as this is a great place to not wreck fasteners. I'm open to all suggestions/ feedback/ ridicule. Go.
@baldilocks I know you have a yearly drive train ritual, and I am planning on copying you in this regard. What's your process for breaking loose the bolts. Do you keep all the wheels on the ground? Raise a wheel? cheater pipe? special favorite wrench? I certainly was able to remove the front when I had my front pinion seal replaced, but I apparently lost my ability to break loose the fasteners. I do have fresh fasteners for both driveshafts that I ordered from Wit's End so I can get "aggressive".
Alternator dirty and "cleaned up", because you like pics.
I also marked my driveshafts so I could have them in phase when I pull them. I tried again to break loose the bolts and I just couldn't seem to get anything to move. So another round of penetrating oil on all the fasteners. I think I must be missing something. I know they are meant to be torqued tight, but I cannot seem to get any to move. The fasteners are all in super nice shape too, the bolts look fresh and are not marred at all, but I cant seem to get anything to move. I have a double offset 14mm wrench that is pretty long and fits well, and several nice 14mm wrenches, but nothing really long. I think I used my Pittsburg long handled 14mm combination wrench, but when I tried it the other day it felt like it was slipping and starting to round. It's a shame because its really long and offers lots of leverage. I'm not opposed to buying a nice long handled 14mm wrench, as this is a great place to not wreck fasteners. I'm open to all suggestions/ feedback/ ridicule. Go.
@baldilocks I know you have a yearly drive train ritual, and I am planning on copying you in this regard. What's your process for breaking loose the bolts. Do you keep all the wheels on the ground? Raise a wheel? cheater pipe? special favorite wrench? I certainly was able to remove the front when I had my front pinion seal replaced, but I apparently lost my ability to break loose the fasteners. I do have fresh fasteners for both driveshafts that I ordered from Wit's End so I can get "aggressive".
Alternator dirty and "cleaned up", because you like pics.
FMC80
SILVER Star
G, you’re having trouble with the driveshaft hardware? Are you trying to loosen the nut side or bolt side? I double wrench when it’s being a PITA and loosen the nut side while also finessing the bolt side loose. Does this make sense?
Not sure if this is obvious but When torquing, ensure the bolt is stationary and torque the nut.
Not sure if this is obvious but When torquing, ensure the bolt is stationary and torque the nut.
FMC80
SILVER Star
And are you sure you’re turning it in the right direction? Let’s not forget the EGR fiasco 
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #435
Fair point! Im going to heat them then try again this morning. I need a new torch.
I purchased an extra long pair of 14mm wrenches specifically for releasing the torque on the driveline bolts. When installing the bolts/nuts I use a standard length wrench but for some reason removing the bolts with a standard length wrench was always more difficult that is seemed it should be.
Yes, 4 wheels on the ground and shift the transfer case into neutral when necessary to rotate the shaft and then back into gear for wrenching action.
I use an end wrench for all driveline fasteners, no sockets.
Yes, 4 wheels on the ground and shift the transfer case into neutral when necessary to rotate the shaft and then back into gear for wrenching action.
I use an end wrench for all driveline fasteners, no sockets.
6-Point or 12-Point?
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #438
Extra long pattern 6point wrenches would be a treat. I think SK and Snap-On make them, but I don’t have a local SK dude here and so far I’ve never called the tool truck. My local hardware store stocks Wright Tools and Urrea, but currently they are struggling to get certain items in. I have a double offset 14mm x 12mm wrench that’s about 10” long, but it’s my longest non HF 14mm tool.
I did manage to break loose all the front driveshaft bolts I could get to without rotating the DS. I used a 14mm 1/2” impact socket, and a couple of nice extension with my derpy Porter Cable impact driver. It rattled them loose. The rear DS is more resistant. I’m reluctant to use my actual impact gun…I think it might be kinda hard on the fasteners. I also bought a torch and I’ll heat them up. They could be full of red lock tite for all I know.
I also got my fuel filter out. That’s a little tricky! It’s brand name is “CHINA”. So my Denso made Toyota fuel filter should set me up for a few years.
12 point.
I've always put the wrench on the nut and tapped it with a dead blow to break it loose.
