Builds Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser (2 Viewers)

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@PNWTreeOctopus, as @FMC80 has stated correctly you need to rotate your wrench in the opposite direction. Because the nut is attached to the pipe, not the EGR valve, you have to have to do the counterclockwise lefty loosey from the perspective of the pipe/nut. When you have trouble breaking a fastener free once you get it to break free a small amount reverse the direction back and forth which will break any rust/corrosion free faster. This will also allow penetrating oil to get furthering in and then you can try again. This method also keeps a bolt or nut from snapping off.
Thanks for posting this technique, I have used it in the past with some success. I think the Kroil, was the big help here, but I also used a very small ball pien hammer to tap the nut a bunch with the hope that it might help with the loosening. I’m the end a very old 12” adjustable wrench with mangled jaws, some very new knipex pliers and some Kroil, were what I needed…plus the community here! :beer:
 
Thanks for posting this technique, I have used it in the past with some success. I think the Kroil, was the big help here, but I also used a very small ball pien hammer to tap the nut a bunch with the hope that it might help with the loosening. I’m the end a very old 12” adjustable wrench with mangled jaws, some very new knipex pliers and some Kroil, were what I needed…plus the community here! :beer:
I always tap the wrench with a dead blow.
 
I’m feeling the Cruiser Love here. I think I’m all set with tools at the moment. A future land cruiser oriented hang out? But I’d have to leave my Covid bunker! Seriously though, At some point I’d like to meet up with the Bellingham folks for a round of beer or coffee or whatever. My wife is a health cate provider snd as such we follow some strict rules around here now that the viral ecosystem has all of our attention in one fashion or another. So when will that cruiser hangout happen? Well I hope soon!


I gave it another go briefly this afternoon, but I still need to bolt the upper intake back on so I can put more force on it without damaging the studs, or the egr pipe itself. I did buy some nice Knipex adjustable pliers today. They seem to grip well. I wasn’t able to work on the truck today, other things called my attention, but I’m hoping to have a solid couple of hours to keep going forward.

I’ll keep you posted and I’ll take some photos.
It would be great to meet up for drive and beverages. Go see what all this rain has done to Sumas Mountain, Middle Fork or North Fork. You thread makes me feel like a slacker with my 80. My 40 fit in my tiny garage so much better and actually left room to work on it.
 
Update:
the Spaghetti of vacuum lines have been replaced…except for one. My 6mm id line from McMaster Carr is just a. Bit too big to fit this section of tubing between a small plastic T fitting. It’s in this photo at the bottom of the screen. It’s slightly larger stuff. I’m heading to a parts store with this T fitting tomorrow to see what I can come up with.

I also changed out the last two water bypass hoses, one below a part of the emissions system and the one by the PHH that goes up to intake area. Not too hard with so much out of the way.

I also changed my disable Linell out. The insulation around one wire was shot to hell. I bought two and now have spare.

I also changed the brake booster valve and line, and installed the new PCV valve and grommet.

Next up is cleaning up the fan clutch, it was so caked with grime, the little coil of metal at the center that is it’s little thermometer thing looked like a small greasy brown puck! So nasty from so much old oil.

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It would be great to meet up for drive and beverages. Go see what all this rain has done to Sumas Mountain, Middle Fork or North Fork. You thread makes me feel like a slacker with my 80. My 40 fit in my tiny garage so much better and actually left room to work on it.
Sounds fun! Well it’s another great reason to finish this part of my baseline project. I’m getting much closer now!
 
Update:
I decided to pull my fuel injectors and send them off to get serviced with RC Fuel Injectors. I just got off of the phone with them and they were so pleasant to deal with that I was happy to give them $168. They even told me not to worry about how grimy they were and send them as is and answered my questions about how to best ship them. Here’s some fuel rail and injector photos. Pretty grimy.

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I also made a little discovery when I was pulling the wiring harnesses off of the injectors. This harness was loose and melted…I’m not sure what this goes to yet since everything it would attach to is on the bench, but I’m pretty sure it’s been like this for a while. It looks like it’s been resting against the EGR pipe. Glad I pulled those injectors. I’m also glad I didn’t have a fire from this.

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Off to the post office!

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RC engineering is a great company to work with but I can tell you that the quality of the seals and grommets they will send to you isn’t up to the standards of the OEM’s. You’d be doing yourself a solid to order those bits from Toyota.
 
RC engineering is a great company to work with but I can tell you that the quality of the seals and grommets they will send to you isn’t up to the standards of the OEM’s. You’d be doing yourself a solid to order those bits from Toyota.
Already on it! Everything is Toyota that can be this deep in the engine bay. If it requires seals/or gaskets to access, I’m going to replace all parts with Toyota.
 
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So I’m thinking that this plug is part of the EGR? My wiring supplement leads me to believe that this is the EGR temp sensor…I’m researching while I wait for my kids to get out of school.
 
Ok, feeling pretty confident this is the EGR temp sensor. So it looks like my EGR has been unplugged for xxx,xxx miles…I was thinking of deleting the egr valve anyway, but this cinches it. It looks like the egr Temp sensor is actually missing from my EGR. I’m not at home, but I’m not remembering unplugging it, or even seeing a pig tail. I’m actually concerned that the sensor opening has been wide open as well. Exploring my engine is fascinating, sort of horrifying, but fascinating all the same.
 
Your 93 probably never had a temp sensor. My 93 does not but both 94’s I’ve had did but those were both originally sold in CA if that makes a difference.

I made an egr block off plate out of .040” thick aluminum and fit it in place of the egr gasket and finished deactivation buy rerouting the vacuum lines by looping them back. This way the egr system can be easily activated if for some weird reason it became necessary.
 
Your 93 probably never had a temp sensor. My 93 does not but both 94’s I’ve had did but those were both originally sold in CA if that makes a difference.

I made an egr block off plate out of .040” thick aluminum and fit it in place of the egr gasket and finished deactivation buy rerouting the vacuum lines by looping them back. This way the egr system can be easily activated if for some weird reason it became necessary.
This makes sense. I did indeed find a bolt in the sensor hole, so that would either be because it came from Toyota that way, or because a PO changed the system. I don’t think any of the PO’s modified the emissions.

Do you have a photo or the ability to take one of what the EGR vacuum routing would look like “looping back”. I think it would be clear with my system put back together, but my intake is obviously still on my bench.

The melted plug is the more concerning part. After spending the better part of an hour reading EGR threads, I’m less confused than I was, but unsure if I can leave the plug alone or if I need to get a new one to do the resistor modifications that are talked about in the “deleting the EGR the mostly Toyota way” thread.

I was thinking I’d need the following kit:
Hudd Expo kit

However, it seems like I just need to re route the vacuum lines to keep the EGR from opening. Correct?

Honestly I’d like to see what your EGR/ deleted EGR looks like.
 
I bought a brand new engine harness in 2015 and it came with that plug in the temp sensor connector My 93 harness had one in it when I bought the rig in 2016. Seems strange that yours does not have the connector plug in it. If the truck isn’t throwing codes or running poorly, I wouldn’t worry about it.

I’m at work until late tonight but can take some photos tomorrow.
 
I bought a brand new engine harness in 2015 and it came with that plug in the temp sensor connector My 93 harness had one in it when I bought the rig in 2016. Seems strange that yours does not have the connector plug in it. If the truck isn’t throwing codes or running poorly, I wouldn’t worry about it.

I’m at work until late tonight but can take some photos tomorrow.
Thank you in advance!
 
Good news…and bad news

The good news is that I torqued up my harmonic balancer. No drama. The ebay tool I bought worked great, I would have loved to support ottram but he was sold out.

Bad news is that I sheared a stud holding my alternator because my extra s***ty HF torque wrench didn’t click. I’m frustrated. I was hoping to remove the alternator because it’s encrusted in oil and dirt snd needs my love. I was retorqueing the adjusting g bracket because I thought those needed to be loosened. I thought it was kind of odd how much it was moving, but anyway I sheared off the stud.
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Drama. Boo.
 
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You're doing great work Greg. Sucks you sheared off the bolt but it happens. I've never extracted a sheared bolt myself (yet). How are you planning on removing it?
 
You're doing great work Greg. Sucks you sheared off the bolt but it happens. I've never extracted a sheared bolt myself (yet). How are you planning on removing it?
Like a boss.
 
Better Lucky than Smart…
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Fortunately it was a long stud that bolted through the timing chain cover and I could access it from the other side it came out easily with an e10 socket, which I had on hand. Just starting to come down now…that was a fright.
 
I wonder what the odds are that this is NLA…time to test my parts searching ability. I’ll report back. Gotta change my drawers too…:flipoff2:
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