leaking gas from top of tank (1 Viewer)

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I tried the ol patch and repair last night.. It was pretty easy also took that time to paint up some bare spots on the tank as well. All ya have to do it loosen up the back strap and remove the front strap. I then wedged a tape measure between the front of the tank and frame to keep it down in the front. I then sanded everything real good cleaned and applied the patch. I decided to do this with a close to empty tank as well. Here are some pics..

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Just look at the stamping process. Stretches the metal in 3 directions there. Add 20 years of repeated expansions and contractions. My theory at least.

Curious to see the lifespan of the bandaids. I used them with little to no luck and took tank out each time to get a good scratch and application.
 
Add another to the list!!!
I filled up and started smelling fuel. Then saw a small leak I thought was oil. The next day had a massive leak. That was definitely unsafe to drive. It was getting on my driveshaft. And slinging onto my exhaust
 
My patch work great till I went up in altitude wheelin. The preasure blew it out. When at sea level my tank is on suck at fill ups... I need it figure out what the problem is before I just get a new tank... in the mean time 3/4 full is doing the trick.
 
This is a real safety issue, so have any of the Land Cruiser owners who have had this problem reported it to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration?
 
I like you view point... I have not reported this.

I came back to this thread to find out has anyone been able to find a replacement tank that fits. I'm coming across numbers of $500 to $700 for new & used tanks both the same. The pick & pull is cheap but is 70 miles away & what are the odds of getting a tank in same or worse condition.
 
No replacement tank here yet. Thinking about the Slee tank though. Maybe we can can get TITAN to build us a tank???
 
And I too, join the leaky gas tank club ('94). Probably the same problem because it began spontaneously (city driving) and only leaks when full. Having only the one car available in Utah it will be a fun repair for me. I will try to source a used tank for a quick swap as the local dealer quoted almost $1000 for a new tank...
 
For what it is worth my patch is still holding.. It will be a year in June ;>)
My putty patch on the filler neck has held almost a year too. I have a new tank, filler neck and skid plate ready to install this spring. Hoping my old tank will be refurbishable as a spare or to sell.
 
I'm replacing my charcoal canister this weekend for this purpose. Lots of pressure escaping everytime I remove the gas cap. Only a matter of time before that pressure pops it!
 
My patch held fine also till I took it up past 6K elevation. I did find a local tank, just need to find the time to get it in there. Half tank method works but a pain on longer trips.
 
OK, I removed seats (which I had just reinstalled to tote baby and grandma around) and carpet and fuel pump cover. By careful inspection of what I can see it seems that the only likely culprit for my leak is the aforementioned fatigue crack.

However, I have a question: how come my tank still holds pressure / vacuum (ie, gas cap hisses when removed)? Shouldn't all the differential pressure get out through the crack?
 
OK, I removed seats (which I had just reinstalled to tote baby and grandma around) and carpet and fuel pump cover. By careful inspection of what I can see it seems that the only likely culprit for my leak is the aforementioned fatigue crack.

However, I have a question: how come my tank still holds pressure / vacuum (ie, gas cap hisses when removed)? Shouldn't all the differential pressure get out through the crack?

Because the crack has to deflect to let the pressure in or out. I thought the same thing, but it is still so tight it does not relieve fast. However, gasoline can wick through the crack quickly (relatively) and drip. Plus, if you filled it enough that the gasoline is covering the crack, air cannot go in/out unless it overcomes the head pressure of the gasoline.
 
Sorry about the one-at-a-time questions--hopefully this is the last one.

All the instructions I've seen for dropping the tank say to remove the fuel pump first. I'm going to pick a used tank tomorrow. On the donor car can I cut the electrical/rubber lines and remove the tank with the fuel pump and bracket in place or will something hang up? Even on my own car it seems easier to remove the tank with the fuel pump in place (after carefully disconnecting lines and wires) and then remove the pump with luxurious elbow room on my garage floor...

I get one shot to do this right, otherwise I have to get a rental car to run any errands...
 
Yes, you can cut the hoses and the straps and all to get it down.

Personally I would disassemble and take all hoses and straps with me in case mine are worse. Remember, these are 20+ YO trucks and some parts are easier to come by when they are in front if you.

You're right, it's your DD and you habe one shot.

FYI I drove mine fir 9+ months with it leaking. I just short filled it. Then I sprayed all bolts with PB Blaster and bought all the hoses I would need, then installed one weekend.

Oh, and BTW buy a big ass metric tap and die set to make sure you get the one that has there 14mm straight thread tap to fix the factory hose fitting if it's screwed up. That's what I had to do.

And buy all new fill hoses and such from Toyota because the straight hose that fits the fill line from O'Reilly's will kink.
 

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