Leak from transfer case

[mark77]

Hi guys,
I have a leak from the back of the transfer case. I took a photo of it. This is the amount of oil that has leaked from just sitting for about 2 weeks while i was fixing some other things. Has anyone had a similarleak and can tell me what the likely issue is and how i can fix it?

Cheers

 

[GLTHFJ60]

The reason it is leaking is the o-ring on the end of the idler shaft is likely old and cracked, or whenever it was rebuilt, the person who re-assembled the case neglected to change the o-rings. In the picture, the arrow points to the groove where the o-ring goes and I also circled the o-ring itself.

 

[exrsa1]

O-ring

Johnny is right on. Just so you know you can change that o-ring without too much hassle. Just take the retaining clip off and slowly move the shaft back till you can get to the o-ring. It does not have to move much to get to it. Be VERY careful, if you pull it back too far, it will come out of the front area it rides in, then you have to do a little more than just replace an o-ring.

Make sure you get the correct year's O-ring for yours.

Ex

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Johnny is right on. Just so you know you can change that o-ring without too much hassle. Just take the retaining clip off and slowly move the shaft back till you can get to the o-ring. It does not have to move much to get to it. Be VERY careful, if you pull it back too far, it will come out of the front area it rides in, then you have to do a little more than just replace an o-ring.

Make sure you get the correct year's O-ring for yours.

Ex

True dat. It looks like an early case ( 34mm idler ), but verify with the year.

 

[KLF]

Yes, be VERY careful not to pull the shaft out more than absolutely necessary. If you go too far, there's a thrust washer at the front end of the shaft (#14 in the pic above) that can fall down into the bottom of the case. Then the entire case has to come apart to fix it.

 

[Tapage]

Yes, be VERY careful not to pull the shaft out more than absolutely necessary. If you go too far, there's a thrust washer at the front end of the shaft (#14 in the pic above) that can fall down into the bottom of the case. Then the entire case has to come apart to fix it.

you have about 1" to play with .. it's pretty doable with care .. good luck .. ! ( you will need .. )

 

[CID 96]

I always like hearing "good luck..! (you will need ..)" LOL!

good luck

Sid

 

[Tapage]

The first time that I try it .. pull the shaft little more than necesary .. and

 

[Eporter]

Wow! I've been trying to figure out if I could do this, too.

Tapage, you serious? You pulled the shaft out and then had to do a springover, rear disc conversion, AND take the transfer apart? I'm not sure if I have time for ALL that...

Seriously though, does that shaft want to shoot out, or can you CAREFULLY do it?

A slow drip is better than splitting the case right now, as I barely have any time to devote to the cruiser.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Wow! I've been trying to figure out if I could do this, too.

Tapage, you serious? You pulled the shaft out and then had to do a springover, rear disc conversion, AND take the transfer apart? I'm not sure if I have time for ALL that...

Seriously though, does that shaft want to shoot out, or can you CAREFULLY do it?

A slow drip is better than splitting the case right now, as I barely have any time to devote to the cruiser.

having it SOA makes working on the truck SOOO much easier. I did mine when it was stock and my chest almost touched the bottom of the case.

 

[Tapage]

Tapage, you serious? You pulled the shaft out and then had to do a springover, rear disc conversion, AND take the transfer apart? I'm not sure if I have time for ALL that...

Seriously though, does that shaft want to shoot out, or can you CAREFULLY do it?

The lenght of the shaft allow you wnough space and travel to pull it out necesary to expose the o-ring and change it ..

Nothing more ..

having it SOA makes working on the truck SOOO much easier. I did mine when it was stock and my chest almost touched the bottom of the case.

Sometimes I like the height of Tencha .. sometimes hate it .. much more when you need to work on the engine bay ..

can't be perfect at all ..

 

[mark77]

Thanks guys for the info. I got a genuine O-ring for $5 and replaced it. Did it carefully and pretty sure nothing fell off the back. I had to use my foot to push it back it from the resistance of the new seal. Made the job alot easier knowing what to be careful of. The old O-ring was quite flattened and cracked when i bent it. Leak seems to have stopped.

Thanks alot!

Mark

 

[FARMAN33]

Going to start mine this week. Great thread, just what I needed. Wish me luck!

 

[Elbert]

I need to do the same thing on my 86.... how are you getting the idler shaft to come out just past the o-ring land?... how are you leveraging its movement?

Yeah this is an old thread but I'm still willing to learn...

 

[FARMAN33]

Yes, I was going to message Mark77 but he hasn't been on since 09. Also curious how far past the o- ring is "safe".

 

[Elbert]

I'm sure the as noted the idler shaft should only come out just enough so that the o ring could come off, which in my mind is just a "hair" past the o ring land ...if thats the proper term.

 

[Godwin]

I need to do the same thing on my 86.... how are you getting the idler shaft to come out just past the o-ring land?... how are you leveraging its movement?

Yeah this is an old thread but I'm still willing to learn...

There is enough of the shaft protruding that you can grab with pliers and gently rotate and pull. When you reinstall the lock tab and bolt use loctite on the bolt, don't want to lose that somewhere down the road.

 

[Paul07]

I dit it the lazy way because I where afraid to pull the shaft to far out and then having a real big job to do
So I just

cleaned the outside with break cleaner and put some Hylomar M around.
6 month later still no leaking

 

[CruisinTiger]

Paul explain this Hylomar M stuff please. Thanks

 

[Paul07]

Hi Tiger
Hylomar M is a universal sealant wich I use since 30 years
http://www.hylomarsealant.com/_resources/_html/products.html